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Published: October 19th 2010
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Disclaimer....
The odd couple. *DISCLAIMER - The words following are solely the opinions of the author and do not represent the opinions or policy of Project MARC.*
(Simply put - Frank is crazy, and I can’t be held responsible for all the trouble he seems to get us into. He’s at times an indispensable operative and right hand man, and at other times he’s a free agent akin to a tornado or tropical cyclone. Please, don’t hold me accountable for natural disasters or Acts of Frank. That’s what travel insurance is for). Another story by Frank Zolnai Thursday 22 July 2010
Death on legs!!! (I hate our winters). Seamus failed to recognize me at Melbourne Airport. Having finally convinced him that it really was me, we shared equal time between reminiscing and the upcoming project. Landed in Vila at 0225 on Friday the 23rd feeling like shit. Customs & Immigration was an absolute breeze, and we were met by Ivan to supply us with transport. Ace bloke. Our planet could use a few more like him.
And so it begins…
Playing tourist for the first bit was nice but I didn’t get to do any of
SV Cassie
MARC's 2010 delivery ship for August. the things I hoped for. Distractions aside, our purpose kicked in on catching up with a skipper and his boat to assist with some transport and delivery work to the east coasts of Malekula and Santo. (Our usual transport vessel was running a tad late).
For legal reasons I’ll forego most of the names and adventures, limiting this part of the story to just saying that it was fun and colorful. I could tell tales about anchor drags, running aground, engine-failures just at the wrong time, sailing onto an anchorage in the dark (no engine, remember?!?), guided by natives; “Just 200 meters, boss” sez one, “No,no!!! 50 meters” sez another. You get the idea…
On arriving at our delivery destination, the offloading kicked in. Chief Kalo remembered me and came out in his canoe to greet us. I gave him the low-down and he sez, “We do it!” And at this point I’d like to extend an apology to Seamus. You see, this’ll be his first ever view of how we transferred the gear. (I owe him something so I’ve tried to delay his inevitable heart attack).
The Sakao Island offload:-
Seamus, if you’re
Offloading to Sakao
There's no WAY the supplies could fall off that outrigger canoe. still alive, it’s done…get over it!!!
The days spent at Sakao Island only reinforced my love for this place. Fantastic! Permanent population of just 12 but their generosity and hospitality equals the best on offer - and they’ve never seen the rest of the world to compete on a level playing field.
The next point of interest was our arrival at Turtle Bay Resort on the east side of Santo and my transfer to stay with another mate, Andrew. A fantastic bloke (I’ve mentioned him in last years Facebook story). Days there consisted of the occasional party, lots and lots of work, another party, more work, sailing and drinks, some work, another party, more volunteers joining us, work, parties, sailing, etc. Did I mention sailing???
There was a need for us to be on the west coast of Santo to examine the proposed construction site prior to the materials delivery; sooo, after a two-n’a-half hour arse-bustin’ truck ride followed by a much longer bum-numbing boat ride, we finally arrived in what can only be described as paradise in the raw. There’s absolutely nothing about this place that isn’t everybody’s dream of what paradise once looked like -
Frank Hard at work
Who knew a wheel barrow and a recliner had so much in common? yet it still exists!!! And the people… I’m no poet but wish I was so as to adequately describe their friendliness, hospitality, generosity and inquisitiveness. Words fail me. So, here are some pics:
Back in Luganville (reverse journey with every bone in my bum now broken beyond repair), we prepped for the materials loading of the S/V ALVEI, one of our supply delivery transports:-
That done, it was a beautiful return trip to the west coast and we got there with 10 ton of cement, about an equal amount of other building materials, some volunteers and a whole bucket full of good will. The offload here was a tad better than at Sakao Island:-
The clinic site is on the grounds of Limarua School - 1.5k south of Wusi village (for those who Google a lot). ‘Remote’ is a word deliberately contrived to describe this place. Prone to earthquakes, cyclones and the occasional tsunami, a night hardly passed without us feeling a ground tremor. But then sleeping on the ground makes one a bit more attuned to these things!!! The site of our intended clinic:-
Alvei at the Warf
The loading begins. Nobody died during the offload so there’s not much to say about it except that it pays to have a good looking camera (with an even better looking bloke behind it), ‘cause it lets you take pics while everybody else does the hard lifting. Smart #1!!!:-
Our objective was to build a clinic. Well, not quite… You see, if we build it, then it’s ours. But if the Ni-Vanuatu build it, then it gives them ownership and pride. Smart #2!!! So, I take pictures:-
Bricks are heavy - but I guess that’s no news. Cement is also heavy but it sure-as-hell beats having to transport the pre-maid stuff!!! Local beach sand is used to mix with the cement and, before you know it, BRICKS!!! About 1700 of ‘em:-
Then there’s the production line to make all the reinforcements:-
The foundation goes in:-
The construction:-
And then, the “Naming Ceremony”:-
And before you know it, another Project is finished.
But wait, there’s more... The village ‘mamas’ couldn’t believe that this crazy Aussie bloke
Loading the goods
What you see is 8 of ten tons of cement. - usually hiding behind a camera - actually COOKS!!! Our two British doctors also had trouble figurin’ this one out. Bread? In a camp oven?? No way!!! But then they really should’ve trusted in the ‘Frank’. We (three) ate the lot in one sitting.
About our palatial accommodation and gourmet kitchen:-
Interlude; Being a tad away from the village of Wusi (and aware that I’m single), one evening the chief asked if he should send a few boys over!!! There were only the two of us in our encampment - one of our British doctors (female) and me. All knew that we’re sleeping in separate tents. So, the conclusion I came to was that the chief wanted to supply me with some male “companionship”. Wrong!!! He just wanted us to feel safe and to have somebody light the fire in the mornings. Silly me!!! Worrying like that...
(Remember the Disclaimer!!!)
Anyway, Seamus asked that I keep this story short so I hope that this gives some insight of where we go and what we do. And as to the ‘why’ question regarding volunteering, it’s all about doing what’s right and feeling good for having
done it. After all, we’re only here once. (Insert pic ‘the future of Vanuatu’);
To a recent enquiry from a potential volunteer about what it takes to join a Project, I replied, “Firstly, you have to be certifiably crazy. Then your name goes on a short list and only the looniest are chosen!!!”
So, until next time, Lukim Yu.
Frank (FFTO) Zolnai (SSS).
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Frank
non-member comment
A small observation...
It needs editing, bloke... Or some serious tweaking!!!