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Oceania » Vanuatu » Ambrym
November 14th 2006
Published: November 14th 2006
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AirstripAirstripAirstrip

landing strip on my island of Ambrym
I was nervous to go into the unknown, coupled with the fact that the airplane to take me there was, well for the lack of a better word, um not exactly the safest plane I’ve seen. But no worries, unlike most other trainees who were grounded in Vila because their airport was too wet to land, I was cleared to go because I was to have a “paved” airstrip.

Finally, I land safely at Craig Cove, Ambrym (West Ambrym). I was fortunate, I flew out early, not late and when I arrived I had people waiting on my arrival. (I was told to expect less, to wait, wait to leave and wait to be picked up.) So, off I go in one battered up pick up truck, a style of transport all so similar to that of most third world nations. Again, lucky to have such a luxury, but at a cost of almost one USD per every minute in the truck.

First stop, Primary School next to Lolibulo Village. Here I was inundated with names and stares from the pikininis (read: kids). All small children are scared of me at first as they equate white man with doctors,
Welcoming ceremonyWelcoming ceremonyWelcoming ceremony

My welcoming ceremony-String band
in other words they are afraid I will give them a shot. So after they learn to love me as I only play with them.

As per custom in Vanuatu I was also greeted with a string band, they wrote a song (or changed the words to one)about welcoming me, A Pils Kop Volentia . After speeches are made (including one I wrote in Bislama), my counterpart (a chief at Lolibulo Village) and I set off on foot to my future home, Polipetakiper Vilij (village). Not too far down the “road” I encounter my first experience which makes me fully aware I am now in hardcore bush country.

Along came six boys toward us, they had been hunting in the bush and caught two wild pigs which they were now carrying on sticks over their shoulders. In addition, they gathered eggs from the namalao. This is a megapode or duck and they lay large (and heavy) eggs, which are about the only eggs the villagers eat, regardless of the fact that there are chickens all over. One of the boys gave one to my counterpart and later that night I tried one, creamy and good. After walking about
Lucas HousesLucas HousesLucas Houses

Temporary Housing for me
an hour, we finally reached my new village.


At the moment, I am here on wokabaot (read: walkabout) to meet the people and observe, I’m only here a week and will go back to Lelepa to finish my training over the rest of November.

So my job here is to help the community off HORHOR (seven villages, commonly refered to as Lolibulo, although in fact that is just the name of one of the villages) build an RTC, or rural training center. Because sometimes a child cannot continue in school because they don’t pass their exam or their family just doesn’t have money for them to continue, there iare a number of youth in the area which have nothing to do, (well I shouldn’t say nothing as when you live off the land you always got plenty to do). So the RTC is more of a vocational school for those who are no longer in formal school.

The village I am staying in is where the RTC is to be built (and my house) and here there is one guest house. It is custom built but lovely. For those who wanna visit, you might want to sleep here instead of my floor. It costs $15 a night, but very basic with a bucket bath and a pit toilet. But why come if you don’t want the whole bush experience.

Anyways, I know I shouldn’t think too large just yet but (and usually I don’t like this idea, the idea of tourism) because of the volcano there is a great opportunity not only for the community to benefit but for the RTC to put in place a curriculum which can be used right here! Classes in English, so someone can talk to the tourists; in Business to market and to finance (keep track/budget); in tourism itself; also in cooking, sewing (unlike Lelepa very few people here know how to sew) carving and weaving as they can sell to the tourists (and so business comes back into the picture); gender, carpentry, oh the list goes on. But first I need a school, then teachers, then supplies. And I only have two years!

Ok, so I’ve gotten a bit off track. I haven’t told you yet, I’ve been adopted into three families, given one new name, Malikon (means holy or something) and given three more island dresses.
Custom buildingCustom buildingCustom building

Helping to make the custom building


This island is great though, they have a lot of customs, they carve a tam tam (looks like a totum pole but is used as a drum); masks and other things, they weave much like the Lelepa, they dance a dance called the Rom dance, they have sand drawing and they are also known for nakaemas (ae=i) (read: black magic). Some people will tell you that is not true but my little sisters bring everything in at night. You don’t leave laundry drying over night or shoes outside, you must bring it all in because suppose a man of nakaemas has something of yours, he can then put a spell on you.

The girls here can wear pants, in fact it seems only the mamas wear island dress, except on Sunday everyone wears one to church. The girls here play soccer and volleyball and such and with the boys! Most places, not only can’t girls play with the boys, in some cases they can’t exercise at all.

So what have I been doing, well walking mainly. Hell the other day I walked a total of six hours! I’ve been walking to each village to “storian,” meet the
Garden viewGarden viewGarden view

View from the top of LeLe's garden
people and see where/how people live. You can see from my photos, I went on a walkabout through one village where an uncle of mine is chief, he and another uncle took me around, showed me some sand drawings, taught me about the bush and even climbed a coconut tree because I was thirsty. I’ve acquired quite the taste for drinking coconuts. The green coconuts you drink, and they are so good for you. The brown ones you scratch and milk (aka coconut milk) on your food. I still am too afraid to use my bush knife to cut them open, but that will change. There are a lot of coconuts here! Their main export is copra, dry coconut which is sold to China to make oil. I also eat lots of fruit. My village is the local name for breadfruit. And my house is surrounded by them. Mango season is coming and the flying fox have been knocking them down every night. Flying fox are fruit bats, enormous fruit bats! I think their wing span is something like four feet. Pretty cool to watch them fly over head at night, especially on Halloween!

Ok, so my six hour
Village guest houseVillage guest houseVillage guest house

The guest house in my village
walk. Well, it’s two hours from my house to the bank and I wanted to go. There is a phone there as well, don’t worry mom apparently I’ll get a satellite phone. So, yea, post office, bank, and phone (and “bigger” store) is a two hour walk for me. We walked here first then after I was invited to Lele Village where the mama’s group which meets every Tuesday was meeting to weave a custom house. They weave coconut leaves one after another and then layer them on the roof. I think my house is being built like that. I have a counterpart in this village as well. This village is the home of one man who works at the PC office in Vila. His sister is my counterpart. And while I was there the other day his brother told me, in LeLe he’s my papa. Well my papa showed me around. LeLe is on top a hill (hence why I was walking so much) and he showed me some custom grounds with graves of some chiefs, a big tam tam and other carvings. After, he took me for a walk to see their garden. On top of their garden was a beautiful site. I told him I want my house right here! One directions you look you see the ocean and on a clear day other islands such as Malekula and Pama. In the other direction you see a volcano.

So even though I have to walk loads, there is loads to see. I might not have the ocean right here to swim but I got land covered in black volcanic ash and small patches of grass. I have hot springs and lakes, volcanoes and lots of bush, and most of all lovely people.

Tomorrow I walk to the secondary school (two hours away) where there is a co-op, a clinic and another PC volunteer. I can’t wait to meet him as he’s the only other American in walking distance. Oh, shall I mention another benefit to this walking, I get very little protein and way too much carbs. So if you wanna send me food make sure it has protein, like tuna, beans, mac n cheese (oh, cheese….), peanut butter. Yes, I can stock up in Vila so don’t send too much of those things.

So I love it here. Last night I sat in front of the guest house looking at the colors of the village and watching the kids play. They have five little rocks they got from the salt water, they juggle two at a time and like jacks while one is in the air to pick up one more. These same rocks they use to play another game for me it is kind of like tic tac toe but maybe it is similar to another game I don’t know. Anyway, you got two people, each has three stones different per person. They draw a box with lines on the ground (like an asterisk like star). They take turns laying the stones at the different points, i.e. one in the middle, one at each end, etc. Then they start to play. The idea is to get all three stones going at a diagonal across so you take turns moving a stone and trying to block one another.

The young children have sticks with a can and two wheels on one end which they push. And say you wanna play a little cats cradle but you don’t have yarn, no worries pandanas leaves work perfectly for that. Oh, and another thing, as some boys just stopped by, they hunt with sling shots, no lie.

So yes, I live in the bush and I love it. The other night I made the whole village laugh as I danced with another girl to the string band. I’ve asked one man to teach me the ukelea, which of course I’ll have to make first. Everyone here is excited to take me to the volcano. But I tell them we wait till winter (June) as it is too hot now. Truth is I must get better shoes or learn to walk island style (barefoot) first.

Oh my, I forgot to mention, there are beautiful flowers everywhere with butterflies hovering nearby and some colorful birds like kingfisher and doves (which aren’t white). Of course, running around every village are chickens (and their meat is tough) and pigs (non-wild ones, saved for special occasions). Occasionally, on my walks I see buluk amongst the palm trees. I took a photo just because it is an unfamiliar site. Again, they only eat cow during special times like a wedding or something. Ok, well this is it for now. As mail here is slow I suggest you continue to send mail to the address I had given you. If you need it again or you want my tel # (when I get one) e-mail me with that in the subject line and my sister will e-mail you back.

Ok, soon I’m back to training. Write lots and I’ll try to keep you all updated!

Oh wait I forgot to mention the primary school is Francophone so I might get a chance to teach English. In case any of you are buying the lonely planet so you can plan your trip out here, they don’t talk much about West Ambrym but couple it with Southern. I must write them, also tell them about our guest house. And in case you’ve heard of them, no we have NO centipedes (which bite and sting and make your leg swell up) on this island. Although we do have African snail!

Oh the last day of my walkabout my chief took me to my village Nasara which is where they do the Rom dance. It is a tabu area unless the chief says its ok, and a lot of women don’t go because they are afraid. All the carvings you see were made in my village and they are custom carvings. I love my site but it is hardcore!

Disclaimer: The contents of this blog are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. government or the Peace Corps.

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14th November 2006

hey!
what up girl!? strapped for time now, but i'll read this at lunch. glad to see you're still alive. i'll comment more in a bit. cheers! tait
14th November 2006

WOW WOW WOW
Hi Love, Hope all is well--sounds like you are getting acclimated and it is exciting. Great--glad you are doing well and are happy.. sounds like you have a big "italian" family..Grandma would love it.. Be safe and happy..Love Mom
24th November 2006


Hi Christa. Thank you for your letter. I enjoyed reading it. Hope you are doing well. You sound happy. I saw your mom and Aunt Robin last week and we had a nice dinner at Chengdu. Too bad you were not with us. Hope you have a happy birthday on the 28th of November. Love You. Aunt Helen
19th December 2006

Hi Christa
I hope you are well, take care of your self. Have a great Year
8th January 2007

hey girl
Happy new year, thinking of you! Aunt Robin

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