Going down South!

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Finally, my bags were zipped, along with last hugs with Shinayd and Rodney who got up early to say goodbye. Although, I think it was more to check I was definitely off. ? It was time for me to close the door on Flat 11/107 Cuba Street which had been my home away from home. I'd certainly miss my housemates, but not so much the noise! I also couldn't not call to Little Peckish for a true final goodbye and of course, one of T's hearty breakfasts to set me up for the day ahead. Final cwtches (hugs) with the team including Olga, I shouted Hwyl, Da Boch chi, and Cheerio as I made my way to meet Frankie. Unfortunately my bus came early but luckily she still managed to wave me off. Shit suddenly got real, as I sat on there on my way to the Airport; my next adventure had began. This even more so, when I had to pay a further $60 for being well over on both my main suitcase and hand luggage. Whoops! There's a lesson there somewhere. Don't pack on a hangover!? At least I thought, it's better to have too much, than leave something behind I told myself. The flight to Nelson was barely 30 minutes and I was lucky enough to score a window seat to enjoy the wonderful Wellington coast as we crossed Cook Strait and headed South. The sun shone brightly and it definitely felt like Summer was on its way. On arrival, I grabbed my 'Heavy Bag' complete with label stating so, from the back of the transport cart, that they just parked up outside. No posh conveyor belts here, people ? and got on my shuttle, to pick up my hire car. Yippee! I was going to have a set of wheels again for the next three weeks! Excited and slightly cautious as it was a bloody automatic, I tentatively set the Sat Nav to Nelson City, stuck it in 'Drive' and made my way. Tonight I'd stay in an Air B n B. Check in wasn't until later so it was straight to the Information Centre (i-Site over here) to keep me out of trouble for the next couple of hours. This was the best thing, I could have done. I ended up going to the 'Centre of New Zealand' via a river walk through Nelson, continuing onto the Maitai Valley Ridge which gave amazing views over this part of the world. There, it was just me and the sheep, enjoying what lay before us. Nelson being compact but having it all, beautiful coast, lovely beaches and a quaint town centre. At last the holiday vibe was upon me once more. Still with time on my hands, I checked out the main Cathedral at the top of Trafalgar Street. It sat within a tiered garden with its Bell Structure standing tall and proud stating it's prominence. When I got inside someone was playing the piano which echoed all around. It was quite basic compared with our historical wonders at home but the colours of the stain glass windows streamed through as the sun shone in. I got to my accommodation for the night, around 5pm. I was exhausted, it had been a long and emotional day. Although I was over the moon with what I'd booked, I had my own private room set in a garden tucked away, with only bird song for company. This was exactly just what I needed. A kind of retreat after all the partying in Wellington! Lol. Although if Tracy had appeared and gone 'just one more', I'd have relented. ? I had two nights at this place, so took it easy in readiness to continue my exploration of Nelson the following day. It was a leisurely start with glorious sunshine. A day definitely befitting of shorts. I decided to leave the car parked up and casually meander through the centre. I stumbled upon Queens Park, a beautifully planted tropical oasis around a lake. This due obviously to Nelsons great climate. The smell of spring flowers intensely lingering in the breeze, inclusive of NZ bird song and even ducklings playing on the water. It was lovely and the epitome of Spring. On the edge of the park was another tranquil hideaway, the Huangshi Garden. Commisioned in 2001, and opened officially on November 14 2007, the garden symbolises Nelson's Sister City relationship with Huangshi, an area found in the Hubei Province in China. Although small, it was exactly what you'd expect from a Chinese inspired garden, down to the plants, the up turned roof of the Pavilion and how water was present throughout, symbolising the ongoing fluidity of life. I whiled away the morning, simply enjoying the warmth of the sun, in the Suter Cafe Bar which edged Queens Park, taking in a cup of tea overlooking the water. Later I popped into the Suter Gallery, to see what constituted Art on the South Island. There were some quite nice, yet interesting pieces in this large gallery, although as usual there were far more questionable ones. ? Back outside, it felt alot cooler than before so I headed back to base to change. All done with Art for the moment, I wondered what else there was to see. I'd truely enjoyed my walk the previous day, so took some advice from Vanessa my host and walked to the summit of 'The Gampians'. A peak that was clearly demarcated with a Satellite Tower and stood much higher than 'The Centre of New Zealand', sat proud on the hillside behind my accommodation. This meant a much steeper climb but was worth the effort of nearly losing a lung when I reached the viewing platform just a short distance below the top. Full uninterrupted views of Nelson and the surrounds clearly visible along with the opposing coastline that arched around. Moteuka also could be seen in the distance where I would move onto next. Pleasantly tired and slightly red in the face, even though it had been overcast, I made the executive decision that it would be a takeaway night. Feeling lazy and the fact I'd barely used the car since I'd picked it up, I felt it was a good enough excuse to use it for the two minute journey into town. Unbelievable!!! I'd only gone and gotten a bloody parking violation from where I'd left it by my accommodation. Even this was a new record for me. I'd had the car less than 24 hours before being booked! ??? I really was starting to worry if they were going to let me out when I turfed up at Christchurch in a few weeks time!!! ? Trying desperately not to get another before leaving Nelson, at least, I checked with them in the takeaway place before placing my order if it was ok to park, just outside. ? That night it hammered down and I started to worry what Abel Tasman was going to be like if this continued. Next Morning, the sky was blue, the sun was out and there wasn't a drop of rain in sight. Thank goodness. All packed up again, I loaded the car and made my way to Motueka. Not before, however stopping at Nelson City Council and paying my $60 parking violation with the Scottish guy behind the counter pissing himself laughing. My face hidden behind my Sunglasses, I made a quick exit and hoped I could be a law bidding visitor for the rest of my trip. The journey to Motueka was pretty, following the Tasman coast with me stopping along the way to admire Mapua and the Ruby Coast section. I arrived around lunchtime so again headed for the i-site. From there, I grabbed lunch at a recommended Cafe opposite. It was quite nice and I enjoyed it alfresco. Sweetcorn Fritters, Bacon and Onion relish were delicious. The GF Carrot Cake however was too dry and crumbly and I wasn't a fan of the cream cheese topping. Luckily I had cream to help it go down. As I sat there picking at it, I thought Maggie would not have allowed this and rightly so. ? All I'd learnt at Little Peckish would stay with me forever. I didn't think it possible but I'd become even more critical, although being on holidays and feeling relaxed in the sunshine, I said nothing. Needing to work off the calories I had just consumed, I headed to Motueka Waterfront and strolled along the coastal path. A truly beautiful coastline, complete with Shipwreck that you could walk to which was quite cool. It had been a glorious relaxed afternoon with my criminal activities well behind me. I would stay in Motueka for the next four nights and use it as my base whilst exploring the area. My accommodation this time booked through Booking.com, I was actually staying in someones home with private lounge, bedroom and ensuite facilities. Breakfast was included and Ian and Rebecca were fantastic hosts. The house set back away from the main road with a beautiful garden all in bloom. Again I was well chuffed with my choice. Over the next three days, I covered the route from Awaroa Bay to Apple Tree Bay in the Abel Tasmen National Park. A total distance of ~16.5 miles (26.7km) walking through bush and coast in equal measures. It was area I'd wanted to visit and it did not dissapoint. This part of my trip, of the South Island in fairness had taken the most planning. I wanted to cover the majority of the route but without the expense of a guide and single supplement added on. If I stayed in the park over the three nights it was coming close to £1000. There had to be a better option, I told myself. After much researching and pulling my hair out, I stumbled upon a three day park pass inclusive of water taxis to and from certain points along the route. This could work, I thought. Yet more researching led me to believe, that if I allowed plenty of time between my chosen routes, I'd have an opportunity to enjoy the area, rather than feel like I was on a route march to catch my boat ride back each day. I was told the paths were clearly marked which always helps. You know me, with my sense of direction.? So I took the plunge and booked this little adventure. On the three consecutive days I'd booked, I'd catch the Wilsons boat in Kaiteriteri to my chosen destination, get off, walk and hope I'd make it to my end point, to return to my car and drive back to my wonderful accommodation in Moteuka, a short 20 minutes away. Day 1, saw me take the incredibly winding route to Kaiteriteri by Car. Park legally this time I might add and jump on my first boat ride to Awaroa Bay. I had decided that I would travel to my furthest point and work my way down the coast in a Southerly direction. Once on board, I collected my lunch that I'd preordered to enjoy later. We had full commentary about the wonders of this incredible area and even got taken up close to admire a few. The first being Split Apple Rock, a boulder that resembles an apple being cut. The name also comes from the main rock type along the coast being granite, estimated to be 135 million years old. The granite splits along natural fault lines, then breaks to form golden quartz sand beaches which is characteristic of this coast. The second was watching the New Zealand Fur seals play happily along on the rocks that aligned Tonga Island. This all before I finally landed on Abel Tasman at Awaroa Bay, a beautiful stretch of golden sand to embark on the first stage of my walk to Medlands Beach. Awaroa Bay, was also unique in the fact it was owned by the people of New Zealand. During my time here, it had made headline news when The Department of Conservation (D.O.C) who are responsible for Abel Tasman park had put this area up for sale. There was such up roar amongst the people of NZ with the fear that a big developer would buy the land, a national campaign was initiated to raise the money to buy it. As a person, who was now stood there, I could easily see why this had inspired the people of New Zealand to get behind such a campaign. The weather kind, with the sun shining. I couldn't believe it. It was a true slice of paradise. Today I'd cover a distance of ~5.5 miles (8.8km)on a rather undulating path that took me well into the bush and across the sandy beach at times. Not before having a quick cuppa though at Awaroa Lodge, ten minutes after starting. Well, I had plenty of time!!! ? Words cannot really describe the wonders and sheer beauty of this place. The natural formations stole one's breath away. With every opening when you get full views of the vista's before you, it was hard to believe it was real. I was so pleased, I'd decided to do this by myself. I was selfish about this place and I wanted it just for me. My wish came true, passing very few walkers and spending the majority of my time alone. I took my lunch at Onetahuti Beach, around the half way point. I was like a child at Christmas unwrapping my sealed lunch bag. I was well chuffed, when I saw all my goodies and didn't know what to feast on first. It included a chicken, bacon and cheese salad wrap created from a thin omlette, a polenta salad, a muffin, a polenta based orange cake, an apple and a small bottle of Fruit Juice. It was fantastic. What's not to like when you have two treats included??? I even had enough for dinner that night, but only because of my cautious approach when I spotted, that someone else also had their beady eyes on my lunch. However lessons learnt from my Australia adventure when a Seagull stole food right out of my hand in Victor Harbour, I was taking no chances and held on tight!!! The walk throughout the day continued to be incredible. I made it back to Medlands, my final destination around 3:20pm. A tiny cove, that was all mine for a while before others came to jump on our boat ride back to Kaiteriteri at 5pm. It had been an immense first day with perfect weather. I had everything crossed that this would continue. Back at Motueka, I felt the impact of the fresh sea air. Relaxing in my little lounge admiring the gorgeous view of the surrounding mountains as the sunset on another day, the sky all of a sudden looked ablaze with the incredible reds, orange and yellows. It was like nothing I'd ever seen before. Simply stunning. Based on the saying, Red Sky at Night, Shepherds delight, I knew then the weather was going to be good. I awoke to bright sunshine and was ready to take on the next section of my walk from Medlands to Anchorage. Today I'd cover a distance of ~7miles (11.4km) but not before catching my boat from Kaiteriteri were I met a lovely couple from Wellington named Jack and Jill. You couldn't make this up, could you? ? The walk from Medlands was mostly within the bush but was just as wonderful and interesting. This section, proving to be, a far more popular route with me having to speed up or hang back to avoid the company of others. This was my sanctuary and I was getting abit Gollomesque about it... wanting my precious, all to myself!? Inclusive of an evil swing bridge and sections that edged the coast providing impressive views of the spectacular Torrent Bay, it was easy to see why so many wanted to walk it. Wildlife on this section was also more pronouced with lots of native birds and Wekas casually strolling about. The highlight of the day however seeing a Duck and her clutch of five ducklings wandering directly passed me on Anchorage Beach, as I waited for my boat ride back. All this fresh air was knackering but I also believed it was my mind trying to comprehend all the breathtaking views it had feasted on in the last 24 hours. Day 3 was already upon me and with it my final visit to the park and the shortest section I'd walk, covering a distance of 4 miles (6.5km). It started with my usual boat ride from Kaiteriteri but today, I'd decided to take an extended cruise, staying on all the way to Totaranui, the most northern drop off point, to get a final glimpse of this stunning coastline before disembarking at Anchorage to complete my last section ending at Apple Tree Bay. Wow, I'm so glad I did. Today of all days there was a pod of about 40 dolphins eloquently jumping out of the water to play in the spray of the boat. I'd never seen so many in one place or any here on my previous visits. Although not a huge Dolphin fan, it was still pretty spectacular to witness. It was more fun though watching a large flock of resting birds having to move out of the way of our on coming boat. Surely they must know the route by now. ? The weather a little overcast to start with, but dry, soon improved with my sunglasses being donned once more. The walk from Anchorage was a steady climb from the beach to the highest point in the bush with my surrounds resembling Australian terrain, or so it felt like with it being predominantly short and barren with many dead sections. A little further on, I reached a viewing area providing a 360° panorama of the Torrent River and Bay. An area I had covered the day before. This place just kept on giving and it wasn't long before my surroundings returned to the iconic Jurassic New Zealand scape of huge ferns creating lush green canopy above. From here, the walk generally flat as it followed the natural curves of the coast provided sporadic views of the beautiful turquoise water housing Adele and Fisherman Island through gaps in the foliage. All of which beckoned me on to Apple Tree Bay. Feeling peckish I took lunch at Stilwell Bay. A small area with the tide in, complete with waterfall, I found a rock to perch on and enjoy both the view and my food. Shortly afterwards I arrived at Apple Tree Bay, my final destination for my boat ride home. The sun beated down, the sea lapped quietly and consistently against the golden sand. I had made it to what can only be described as the Paradise of Abel Tasman. For the next few hours I soaked up the warmth whilst drinking in the view. What a way to end my time here, on a gorgeous stretch of coast that was all mine and mine alone. That evening I had the wonderful company of a Spanish couple who were also staying at the accommodation. They too had visited Abel Tasman that day, taking in what I had covered on the previous one. As we sat enjoying our dinner and chatting, I got a full fireworks display courtesy of the surrounding neighbours. What a way to end my stay in Motueka. It was an early start the next day with Ian serving me my bacon and eggs for the last time at 7:30am. Although it took me a little while to get packed and organised leaving eventually around 9:15. The weather not inspiring me to move any quicker with it dull and showery. Well you can't win them all! Today, I would travel as far North as I could, to get to the tip of the South Island. My journey took me through Takaka Hill, a continual 40 minute incline on a twisted road. Thank God I wasn't walking. ? I stopped at two viewing points once I reached the top which gave the full Tasman area. I could even see across the coast to Nelson where my adventure had started a week ago. It was unbelievable. The second viewing stop brought me high above the point, I'd sat, not barely 24 hours ago, with Adele and Fisherman Islands present in the distance. Continuing on, with a further 40 minutes of twists and turns to come down the other end, the views of the landscape never ending, I dropped into the valley and through the small town of Takaka where I'd spend the night or so I thought. I drove for a further hour following the coast until I reached Puponga and could see the well formed 35km sand spit encirculating the bay known as Farewell Spit. This being a nature reserve and wetland of international importance. My end destination I was hoping to be Cape Farewell, the most northern point of the South Island. Unfortunately from Puponga onwards there were only unsealed roads. Given the car I had, was only on loan, I decided it wasn't worth the cost of a new paint job!? So instead I headed back the way I came and stopped at Collingwood a tiny place with a very interesting history, that was situated halfway between Puponga and Takaka. Here unfortunately the weather took a turn for the worse and I got soaked through taking a short walk to a lookout point showing the surrounding area. This though luckily after stumbling upon a real quaint Chocolate Box shop called Rose Glow Chocolates were I purchased some treats. After covering what felt like all aspects of Collingwood, inclusive of Historic Cemetery, and being wet through, it was time to move on and check out Te Waikoropupu Pupu Springs. Located just outside Takaka and being the biggest in Australasia and the claiming to have the clearest and purest water in the world, it was one not to miss. The rain had returned but still damp from my previous soaking, I decided to carry on with the 45 minute looped walk of the area. I was in awe of how clear this water was, even through the resonating rings created by each raindrop on the surface and with the surrounding forest, vibrantly coloured, in the wet made for an enjoyable, if not soggy jaunt. Ready to call it today although still early afternoon, I drove the short distance to my accommodation in Takaka. I had a wonderful warm welcome from the host and then the door opened and there was my nemesis! A large black and white cat. Hell No, I'm out of here. After apologising to the host and explaining about my severe allergy to cats, I hot footed it out of there, now on a mission to find somewhere for the night. Given I knew I had a long drive the following day and I had time on my hands at this very moment, I decided to make my way back over Takaka Hill and shave an hour off, on my next journey. I found myself back at Kaiteriteri and luckily spotted a vacancy sign on a Bed and Breakfast place. I knew why, when she said $200 for the night. This was without breakfast. Holy shit! Hey, this was only happening once. The house was truly gorgeous and the view that came with it, priceless. It also provided a last opportunity to enjoy this place before moving on. I had a wonderful sleep and felt raring to go, when I left at 7:30am the following morning. Today saw me wave farewell on the Tasman coast and 'Go West' like the song. ? The drive was extremely pretty through farmland areas initially then took in one of New Zealands must do drives as voted by Lonely Planet, 'The Buller Gorge'. The weather overcast and cloudy was perfect to while away a four hour drive. My first view of the gorge taken from up high as I dropped down into it. At this point there was low lying mist which made for a stunning atmospheric panorama. The drive was full of twists and turns, something it seems that is synonymous with any route in New Zealand. Once low in the gorge, the road aligned with the Buller River and the two ran side by side sometimes crossing in parts through many one lane bridges. It was hard to focus on the road ahead and not continually look at the natural beauty of my surroundings. I was lucky, the road was quiet so I could meander at my leisure but still made good time. I was heading for the Denniston Plateaux to visit a historic coal mine that you was home to one of the richest, high quality coal seams in New Zealand. For many decades it was the country's largest producing mine, with an estimated 12 million ton carried down the incline during its operation from October 1879 to August 1967. It was lots of fun and extremely interesting and harrowing listening to the hardships that the miners and their families endured back then. The worse thing being the 'Incline', widely referred to as "the Eighth Wonder of the World" because it was a remarkable feat of engineering. Linking Denniston with the Conns Creek rail head below, the incline fell 510 metres over 1.7 kilometres in two sections, incorporating dramatically steep gradients and was used to get coal from the plateaux to the head for transport out. It was also used to bring families up onto the ridge using the weight of the full coal trucks to lever them up. Seeing the remains of this historic track drop down the side of this steep plateaux, can only be described as one of the worlds most dangerous roller coasters with no safety features. Many women once on the plateaux refused to leave until the road was constructed. Even when they lost children that could only be buried in the town below. A poem was featured on one of the many information post but summed it up quite well I think.



Damn Denniston

Damn the track

Damn the way both there and back

Damn the wind and damn the weather

God damn Denniston altogether

ANONYMOUS



I spent a good two hours in the mine, were they had holographic displays of miners working, reiterating stories of the past. Our tour guide 'Don', had also worked as a miner in the area many years before so was full of interesting facts. It was a really well thought out tour and I was glad I'd discovered it when researching my trip. From there I made my way to Granity, a small town where I'd stop the night. Luckily it had a restaurant and bar attached. Tonight I was dining out. The food, sublime, the service, very pleasant and the view, gorgeous,comprising of the crashing waves on the beach. for what felt like the arse end of nowhere (no offense meant, but there were very few people about). I ordered garlic prawns to start, followed by Orange Roughy, vegetable gratin with asparagus and charred brocolli in a cream sauce. To end I had homemade chocolate, coffee and hazelnut ice cream. To say this meal was a delight to eat would not even begin to cover the sheer enjoyment I took from each mouthful. The prawns plump and luscious in the rich garlic butter would burst with flavour on every bite. The Orange Roughy, beautifully cooked although, I believe you would be hard pressed to identify it from Cod in a blind tasting was served with the most exquisitely cooked vegetables I've eaten in a while. The gratin to begin with, was part potato and part beetroot which made for a very pleasing and interesting combination with a thin top cheese layer that just brought the whole dish together. The ice-cream simply delicious from the rich chocolate and coffee flavours with the crunch of the whole hazelnuts that hid within. Each mouthful a joy if not a little cold for my sensitive teeth. ? All of which was washed down with an NZ local cider. If only I was staying longer, I would have happily made my way through the copious amounts of Gluten Free options they had. Feeling stuffed like a little pig, I decided to take a walk along the beach that I'd been over looking, to watch the sunset. It did not dissapoint. Theres something truly magical about the sun disappearing into water and tonight was no different. The surrounding sky turning pink as the golden globe vanished like a magic trick. The other unique thing about this section of beach was the personal tribute that the local stone mason had cast in remembrance of his wife. A female figure set high on a solemn rock facing the water looking out to sea. With all that fresh air and food, that night I slept like a baby, refreshed in the morning to head north up the west coast to the main Oparara car park set in the Kahurangi National Park to complete the Mirror Tarn (Galadriel's Pool)and Moria Gate Loop. I think I'm Lord of the Rings obsessed. ? Although both were examples of the natural world at its best, making the drive well worth the effort. The Mirror Lake, being just that, a complete motionless upriver lake tucked away in the rainforest, providing an exact symmetry of anything that edged it. The water, that still, I nearly ended up in it. ? The track continued through the rainforest and onto the Moria Gate Arch. Another beautiful site as the sun illuminated the water flowing under it. At 19 metres high, 43 metres wide and fully deserving of its ‘Lord of the Rings’ name, this place was enchanting. The track then took me over the arch before returning me back to the start. I was getting hungry, so headed to the estuary in Karamea which was on my return south to enjoy an alfresco lunch before taking in a short walk to watch the local wildlife. Next stop, Westport, an hour and a half further south where I'd stay overnight in the 'Art Hotel'. The weather today simply gorgeous, made for an easy drive with the pretty scenery of coast to my right and lush mountains to my left. It was around 4:30pm when I arrived and I wanted to stretch my legs again in the sun. What could be better, than a great coastal walk taking in Cape Foulwind and Tauranga Bay Seal Colony situated a little way outside Westport? Even though the name suggests gale force winds, it was more a welcome breeze in the mugginess of the evening sun. Another undulating coastal path kept my core temperature up but it was so worth it with two beautiful bays, some fur seals and a lighthouse to boot. Back at my accommodation which was pleasant enough, I grabbed some dinner and settled in. What a day, three different environments and each with its own beauty and wonder. At last, a casual morning start seeing as I only had a short but significant journey to undertake, continuing south to Greymouth. I would travel the 'Great Coast Road' voted by lonely planet as one of the Top 10 Coastal Drives in the world. Today the weather was not kind. There is no other description other than, it pissed it down. Now being welsh, I know a lot of descriptions for rain but this certainly sums up what it was like. I left Westport and here came the light pitter, patter, then as I stopped for my first short walk on 'The Truman Track', I was taking no chances so on went my bright pink over trousers. You know the ones I bought in Perth over a year ago, that I was only now having the opportunity to wear. My blue walking jacket and umbrella. Thank goodness as although the path went through native bush to a small, picturesque beach, the rain lashed, the wind whipped up, the thunder rolled above and the lightening flashed. Oh the joy of a true west coast storm. Not having been deterred and proving my clothing was robust enough to keep me dry, I continued on to Dolomite Point just south of the village of Punakaiki to view 'The Pancake Rocks'. These unusual formations created by immense pressure on alternating hard and soft layers of marine creatures in limestone. There is also an impressive blowhole in the area were the sea has eroded away sections but unbelievably today of all days and in this weather it was like a fart in a stadium. The pouring rain I caught on camera being much more impressive. ?? Back in the dry environment of the car, I contined on my way along this gorgeous route that snaked beside each bay and then stopped to take in the Strongman Mine Memorial. It was erected in 2007, on the 40th anniversary of the 1967 Strongman mine disaster, when nineteen men were killed when an explosion ripped through the mine at Rūnanga, just after 10 a.m on 19 January. The Strongman mine (New Zealand's largest underground coal mine) up until this date had enjoyed an impeccable safety record since its opening in 1939. This whole west coast it appeared had coal mining running through its history, with ever present scars left on the landscape in the form of a forgotten industry or works of art placating tragic reminders. This continued as I reached Greymouth when I stopped at another memorial remembering all those that had lost their lives in Coal Mining Incidents in the West Coast Districts. It contained two lovely poems that really sums up the history of Coal mining in the area from the type of men they were, to the danger they faced.



Take a look at these hands, Lord, they’re worn and rough.

My face scarred with coal marks, my language is tough.

But you know in the heart, Lord, lies the soul of a man,

Who toils at a living that few men can stand.

Margie McAlester



It creeps up on us daily as we mine the coal below,

We can’t see it, we can’t smell it; but it’s starting to grow.

It gains in strength, collecting near the roof or on the floor,

If we choose to ignore it, it will punish us for sure.

It is deadly it is silent; it creeps nearer every second,

It’s gathering up it’s forces, nearly ready now, if beckoned.

Now it’s all around us, but we can’t feel a thing,

If it’s not detected soon, disaster it will bring.

The deputy was called for, and he brought his silver lamp,

He quickly took a sample and found deadly firedamp.

“Get some brattice cloth erected; right across the gate”.

“We must dilute this menace, or I know what is our fate”.

The work was carried out, brattice spread from side to side,

Forcing fresh air up, directed, where the enemy did hide.

The gas was soon dispersed as it mingled with the air,

The danger now is over; there’s no place for methane here.

Now that we are safe again, we think of bad times past,

Of the men who lost their lives when the methane grew so fast.

A single spark was all it took to release it’s mighty force,

It took with it each fragile life, which passed along it’s course.

All coal-mining areas have endured their share of grief,

They have suffered with explosions, lives taken by this thief.

To defeat the coal mine menace you must treat it with respect,

Be alert; be on guard, it only wins when there’s neglect.

Keep the fresh air flowing, keep it mingling with all gases,

Then each day we will return to our wives and to our lasses.

Bill Riley



It was now early afternoon and the weather showing no let up, I decided to park up in Greymouth and take a stroll around the town. It felt a little rough round the edges but I suppose everywhere over here couldn't be paradise. ? Although I did find a hidden gem in 'The Gap' cafe were I had a cup of Yorkshire Tea after having been for a haircut that very afternoon. With not much else going on, I made my way to my Air BnB accommodation. Again it was pleasant enough but a far cry from my Motueka and Kaiteriteri stays. Onwards and upwards as they say. Tomorrow Tracy and Lou were meeting me in Oxford. Hopefully they'd bring the sunshine with them or so I hoped. I left Greymouth on the West side pretty early and headed across country to Oxford utilising the famous 'Arthurs Pass' route. It was a pleasant drive and afforded me my first view of snow capped mountains up close. I remembered this route like it was yesterday, having been on a bus the last time I was here. It was different driving it myself. I had little or no time to take in this wondrous part of the country but stay fixated to the ever twisting road. On the odd occasion, I'd stop and for a few seconds breathe in my surroundings. I made good time and arrived in Oxford around Midday. I was so looking forward to catching up with Tracy and Lou. Wellington felt an age away and in reality it had only been 11 days.? Oxford is a tiny place but it was somewhere I wanted to visit, after living in the one in England for three years. It was no more, than a one street wonder as we'd refer to it at home. Historically named 'Oxford' after plans to put a University there, like its British counterpart it comprised of a handful of shops. Luckily one was a Tea Room named 'Pink Sugar' which I'd made a reservation for us, to indulge in a 'Vintage Afternoon Tea'. It was simply delightful from the old style tea party setting inclusive of bunting. To the sniffing of tea leaves to discern our choice and to the three tiered Afternoon Tea Stand that was filled with sandwiches, savoury morsels and divine mouthfuls of cake heaven. It was yummy and even better catered to all our dietary requirements. This made it a little special with us all having our own unique platter. It was a great way to start the catch up with the girls, stuffing our faces over a pot of tea. It was all very sophisticated apart from the one who had the chocolate truffle! Needless to say, it was everywhere! ? All cleaned up aswell as each plate, we made our way to Hanmer Springs were we would stay overnight taking a slight detour to 'Pegasus Vineyard'. A beautiful place with wonderful gardens housing some nice wine. We got to Hanmer Springs around six o clock. Our accommodation spacious with us all with our own room. We freshened up and headed to the main strip. Again a small place but this was set up for tourism with a number of cafes, restaurants and bars. We discovered Robbie's Bar tucked away were we scored the second amazing meal of the day. I'd ordered the Belly Pork on Kumara mash with caramelised apple and Cider gravy. It was both huge and yummy. The caramelised apple ring, being the stroke of genius that lifted the whole dish. The saying "put a fork in us, we're done", rung true as we all waddled happily to the next Bar for another round. It had been a long day, with the girls catching an early flight from Welly so it wasn't long after that, we crashed. We were in Hanmer for one thing and one thing only, the Springs, hence its name. After another feed, (at a cafe this time for breakfast) were we managed to eat Al fresco as the weather appeared to be behaving for once, we made our way to the famous Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa. A place full of relaxing rock pools, an array of water jets, spouts, waterfalls and sulphur pools - all oozing natural thermal goodness just begging to be explored. You know me and my love for hot tubs right? This place was great. Even better there were adult only sections. Thank the lord! I loved it. I could feel the years of ageing melting away, even if it didn't look like it worked. ? We spent a few hours there, relaxing before taking in a round of golf. Mini that is, and a maze at none other than A-maze n golf! As cheesy as the name sounds, this place lived up to its reputation. Lou taking first place but only after confessing she played Golf at school. I hadn't realised I was hanging round with the posh kids. ? With my own ball work needing some attention, as it appeared I just couldn't do gentle. ? It was soon early afternoon and time to drive to Christchurch. A pretty drive even with it raining. We arrived early evening in time to change, shower and head to the Casino to play some 'Pokies' before taking on the town with Lou still demonstrating her winning strike, even when we took to the Pool table. Me again displaying, my heavy handedness with balls heading in all directions apart from the pocket. Tracy looking like a professional just like she had in the Welsh Bar that night when we played until 4am. I blame the amazing cocktails we had. ? It was so lovely having a night out with the girls. My ribs ached from all the laughing. We got in around half one which was a respectable hour for us lot. Just as well, we had a lot to cover the following day. We started by taking the 'Rebuild Tour' which focuses on what the future might hold for the Christchurch CBD whilst providing information on the seismic forces at work in the region taken from the September 2010 and February 2011 earthquakes and the devastation they caused. It was heartbreaking for me coming back here. Nine years ago I flew into Christchurch and it was so pretty. It was my first view of New Zealand and it truly was wonderful. Now it looked war torn. Half left buildings surrounded by large shipping containers in case they fell. Large open spaces where buildings once stood. They were six years on. I think I expected more progress or at least firm decisions to have been made on whether damaged buildings would stay or go. I felt, for those living there and although some innovative transitional projects had popped up, such as the ReStart Mall; shops created in shipping containers and the Transitional Cathedral(also known as the Cardboard Cathedral)in lieu of its wonderful predecessor, being one of the city’s newest buildings, overall it was still very bleak and a constant reminder of those fateful events. However the most poignant reminder being Peter Majendie's 185 White Chairs installation located at Remembrance Square opposite the Transitional Cathedral. Each chair unique and representing one of the 185 lives lost including a 5 week old baby in the 2011 earthquake. The artist statement reads,



185 square metres of grass that the chairs sit on represents new growth and regeneration.

185 white chairs, all painted twice by hand as an act of remembrance.

This installation is temporary - as is life.



After the tour, we visited Cathedral Square to view up close the damage to this once iconic building. I couldn't believe its state. We spent time in the CBD walking the streets taking in what had been removed, what was left and what was new. I was impressed by the courage some had shown to rebuild and restart here. I did wonder if it was hope or wishful thinking they'd relied on for the CBD to ever regain its former glory. For those that have invested and taken the risk, I hope it pays off. It had been a heavy and emotional day so after grabbing a spot of lunch in a pub by the river, we did a dash to the supermarket for some wine, snacks and chocolate to accompany our very relaxed movie night. Starting with the complete chic flick 'Love Actually' noting how young everybody was and how hot the men were, we moved onto a more highbrow film, 'Eddie the Eagle'. This bringing back memories of a school Easter Egg Competition when I entered..."Eggy the Eagle". Needless to say neither my wit or humour has improved with age! ? It was Sunday already and the last time I would catch up with the girls until either I returned or they came to visit me. One thing, for sure, it would be a while. ? We still had the morning together though and with that, I took a drive out to the Hills to see the area where many lost their cliff top homes in the 2011 Christchurch Earthquake. It was a beautiful coastal area to look at, but with a sinister undertone about how safe actually, were the surrounding cliffs? This still in question as a school that lay just beneath them remains abandoned. From there we headed to Banks Peninsula towards Lyttleton and onto Governors Bay to She Universe and Chocolaterie for some brunch. A place recommended to Tracy for us to try given it had an excellent reputation and of course had chocolate. My meal consisting of two chorizo and kumara pototo cakes served with a fresh mixed pepper salad and a sprinkling of dark chocolate. It was tasty if not, a little on the small side as by this time I was starving.? This all washed down with a specially blended Cacoa tea created from the nibs. All in all made for a very pleasant farewell meal affording lovely views of the peninsula. It was soon time to head to the Airport and drop Tracy and Lou off. Where had the time gone? It felt like only yesterday I'd met them. With a quick goodbye and a last pic in the airport carpark, I started my long 4.5 hour journey to Dunedin. The drive picturesque weaving through small townships. Some coastal, some surrounded by farmland, made for a quick journey. I stopped once to stretch my legs whilst taking in the Moeraki Boulders. An odd natural occurrence as if someone had just dropped a pile of large marbles on this wonderful stretch of sand. My luck in as the tide was out, I could go right up close to them. I got to Dunedin around 7pm. I'd stay at an Air BnB here, located just out of the main city centre high on the hillside over looking the area for the next four nights. I was knackered. Driving does that, so I settled in for the night. Not sleeping particularly well, it was the birds that finally made me reach for my phone. It was 5:30am and unusually, lit up like a Christmas Tree with a tonne of messages from home. I started to shake, thinking the worst. They knew I was 13 hours ahead, so obviously I'd be sleeping. Just in that second, my sister rang again. I answered. "Are you alright? Where are you?" she said. "I'm fine Nad, whats wrong?". It was at this moment I started to learn about the devastating earthquake that had occurred in the early hours along with the tsunami warnings that had been issued along the whole of the South Island East Coast. I was absolutely in disbelief. I hadn't felt a thing. I contacted my parents to let them know I was fine. Now I just needed to learn more about what had just occurred what I could do next. It was by doing this I realised how bloody lucky I was. The 7.5 magnitude quakes epicentre was close to Hanmer Springs where I had been 3 days previously with Tracy and Lou. I couldn't believe it, but wait, the news got worse. Wellington had taken the brunt of the shaking. My first thoughts, my friends, housemates and work family. Was everyone Ok? I hoped so! Luckily the only things damaged could be replaced but it was mind blowing seeing pictures of the kitchen in my old flat covered in smashed dishes and the TV face down on the floor. I was in disbelief and felt shrouded with guilt, that I just appeared to have stepped out of it. I'd literally left Wellington two weeks previously, only ever feeling an odd shudder now and again. I needed some air but decided it best to stay up high for the moment. I went to Signal Hill Lookout which gave a clear but dull view of Dunedin and the Otago Peninsula. The town below spotted with historic buildings and the surrounding sea, calm. It was surreal. From there I made my way to Baldwin Street, the Worlds steepest residential street. It was bloody steep as well, especially when you were practically bent over walking up it. Incredibly though there were houses on either side. It was mid morning by this this point and it appeared the people of Dunedin were going about their buisness as usual. So I decided to venture into the centre and visit the i-site to investigate the impact, that the current tsunami warning in place had on my future travel plans. By the time I made it there they had stated, the threat was removed for any region below Banks Peninsula. So again, I appeared to have struck lucky. Whilst in Christchurch, I had made a number of trip bookings for my time in Dunedin using a great website www.bookme.co.nz that Tracy had told me about. Over the next three days, I would visit Olveston Historic Home, Taieri Gorge Railway and Larnach Castle located on the Otago Peninsula. If truth be told, at this very moment, I didn't want to do any of it. I just wanted to just support my friends. This constant feeling of uselessness washed over me and I felt immense guilt for continuing on as if nothing had happened. This amplified still, with me being in the country and not been impacted in the slightest. My biggest issue, the weather, as the rain closed in. To try and snap out of it, I decided to occupy my mind with the Dunedin Street Art Trail which comprised of Art work created by global artists. These hidden pieces of work stretching right across the city. Some extremely clever and I did question the logistics of how they managed to create them where they stood. Having enjoyed 'Banksy' exhibitions in the UK, it was nice to see what others were creating across the globe. With lunchtime approaching, I stopped at a quirky little place called 'Taste Natural' which had many GF options. For lunch I had a jacket potato stuffed with avocado, sour cream and sweet chilli dressing. The accompanying salad simply gorgeous containing all manner of things including Goji berries, nuts and seeds. It was absolutely delicious. Including the raspberry and coconut cheesecake that followed. After lunch I visited St Pauls Cathedral, a beautiful imposing building located in the centre of the 'Octagon'. The name given to the shape of the street it was on. From there I made my way to 48 Royal Terrace to take in Olveston Historic Home, a truly beautiful building that over looked the City. The house built for Dunedin buissnessman, collector and phillanthrapist David Theoman and his family. The name 'Olveston' taken from a small place situated just outside Bristol, England where his family were originally from. I had a guided tour of the house which contained treasures from across the globe. Unfortunately no photos were allowed but it was wonderful to walk through this home designed by acclaimed English architect Sir Ernest George. Gifted by David Theoman's daughter Dorothy in 1966 being the only surviving heir to the City of Dunedin. Its contents, a time capsule on how the family lived from 1906 -1966. The gardens also beautifully kept and contained light blue poppies that I'd not seen before. It was an interesting tour but my mind was elsewhere. Still in shock at the days events, I caught the news when I got back in the car when I discovered a number of large aftershocks had further occurred. I just needed to go back to my accommodation and check on how everyone was holding up in Wellington. My housemates at this point were out of the flat until things settled down which was a relief to me. The next thing on the agenda for Wellington was severe showers and with it flooding. Would this nightmare ever end for them? The following day, the weather still rubbish I took a walk through the University of Otago. One of the things Dunedin is famous for, Students with it being the country's oldest university. The building beautiful and a replica of the Train Station. From there I called into the Otago Museum and saw a number of interesting exhibits, one including the full skeletal remains of a Fin Whale. This being one, of only a few in the world. The weather pretty rubbish, I did wonder what I was actually going to see as I boarded my train to take on the Taieri Gorge. It was however spectacular. My journey going from Dunedin to Pukerangi saw the train travel through ten tunnels and over countless bridges and viaducts as it snaked across the Taieri Plains and then climbed into the Taieri Gorge. It was an incredible feat of engineering in this narrow and deep gorge carved out by the ancient Taieri River showcasing the determination of early railway pioneers. The train negotiated the gorge with ease as it pulled us through this stunning landscape. I got back to my accommodation around 7pm which allowed me to catch up on news from Wellington. More buildings in the CBD had been cordoned off including a car Park that needed removal. I was just so thankful that no one had been hurt. My last day in Dunedin was upon me already, although these past few days had felt like weeks. Today saw me visit New Zealands only castle Larnach located on the Otago Peninsula. Built in 1871 by William Larnach, merchant baron and politician, for his beloved first wife Eliza, it took three years and over 200 workmen to create just the Castle shell. Master European craftsmen spent a further 12 years embellishing the interior. Larnach spared no expense on his dream home, which features the finest materials from around the world. The gardens also impressed, well the small areas I could see as the wonderful building swirled in the mist. Doing a self guided video/ audio tour showed me what I should have seen. ? Given the appalling weather, I chilled out that afternoon and researched where I would stop the following day when I'd head to the Catlins along the Southern Scenic Route. I'd had to make some tough calls as there was so much to see and what felt like so little time. My initial journey saw me hug the coast from Dunedin passing through Brighton and the Taieri Mouth. I then headed inland slightly until rejoining the coast at Kaka Point with my first stop a little further on at 'Nugget Point'. A short walk to the lighthouse and the bay saw me spot a few NZ fur seals. It was a gorgeous rugged coast, and easy to see how it had got its name. With a number of small rock protrusions jutting out of the water in front of the point, these little nuggets were all around. Continuing on, my next stop included Purakanui Falls. Described as 'a true icon of the Catlins' and is one of New Zealands most photographed waterfalls, I just had to take a look for myself. Given the rubbish weather we'd had, I was expecting something spectacular. It did not dissapoint, with three almost equal sized cascades edged in native bush, it was a natural beauty. Next stop Papatowai, and the 'Lost Gypsy Gallery'. This quirky and odd little place made even more so with its location was a spot of fun. The creation by one man of all manner of gadgets, whiles away an hour with the encouragement to wind up and press buttons at every turn to set off his inventions. It was also nice to grab a cuppa in the sun whilst it was out. I soon carried on to Florence Hill Lookout which provided a great vantage point of Tautuka Bay and Peninsula to the South and Tahakopa Bay and Long Point to the North. Next up it was Lake Wilkie, formed after the last ice age when water got trapped in a depression between ancient dunes and a cliff. The lake known as a 'Bog Lake' because its slowly filling in provides a unique ecosystem. There was no time to stop, not with the 22 metre Mclean Falls beckoning me on. It was a pleasant walk through podcarp forest to reach this spectacular natural creation. Finally it was time to make it to Curio Bay were I'd spent the night. My accommodation overlooking Porpoise Bay with Curio Bay situated a five minute walk away. Settled in, I'd arrived with enough time to take an evening stroll along the coast and over to Curio Bay to spot Hoiho (Yellow-eyed penguin) one of the rarest in the world. It was incredible and almost like he enjoyed putting a show on. ? What a day it had been with the incredible varied landscapes, human invention and wildlife. I woke early and the only sound I could hear was the gentle lapping of the waves in Porpoise Bay. I packed the car and got on my way. Before leaving the Curio Bay area, I returned to the spot I'd seen the wonderful yellow eyed penguins the night before. Only this time, the tide would be out and unveil a rather cool petrified forest. From the viewing platform you could easily make out stumps and long trunks that had fallen flat which looked like they were formed in stone. Miraculously when you got up close you could see the grain of the wood. It was truly bizarre and amazing all at the same time. Estimated to be about 170 million years old, this was one area I was so pleased I'd gotten to see. My next stop of the day Slope Point, the southern most point of the South Island. Well it made sense I'd gone the furthest North of the South Island, without wrecking the car. ? A short walk through farmland brought me to the very important sign that told me, it was 4803km to the South Pole and 5140km to the equator. Since I'd decided not to visit either of those that day, I relied on my Sat Nav to help me continue my journey, onto Fortrose. Here I picked up crabs, literally. ? This place had a massive expanse of beach which was a haven for wildlife. I stretched my legs along the foreshore and soon spotted one of my favourite creatures. Well I am a Cancerian after all. A few of them were quite odd, as if they were covered in fine seaweed to camouflage themselves. One was just blowing bubbles and the other, a small one, was filtering sand. The main thing I did notice, is that they didn't make much of a run for it, even when I went to pick them up. Returning them safely probably after scaring them half to death, I continued onto Waipapa Point Lighthouse. The sun now high in the sky, beating down, illuminating this dramatic rugged coast. It also afforded me the chance to see New Zealand Sea Lions, but not before, I nearly miss took them for giant washed up bits of Kelp. Bloody hell I thought, I need my eyes tested. I was so glad I'd decided to take the path up from the beach, as when I stood looking down, I could see their fins. They were bloody huge! I'd never gotten so close. Not the most interesting of animals mind when simply sunbathing, but I suppose its still pretty remarkable to see them in their natural habitat. Next stop, Stirling point with its famous signpost signifying the start of State Highway 1 that has, for many years ran from the bottom of South Island all the way up either side of Cook Strait to Cape Rienga at the Northern most point of the North Island. That was until this weeks recent earthquake with parts of it out of action at the top of the South Island. Hopefully that would be one piece of infrastructure that could be sorted easily but after seeing the latest pictures, it didn't look like a quick fix. From Stirling point, I made my way into Bluff. Now what does that rhyme with....? Rough! That would be correct. Unfortunately I had at least three hours to kill in this dodgy place. This saying something, coming from a Valleys girl. ? The only place available for me to have food was the Anchorage Cafe and Bar, which at 2:30pm on a Friday afternoon appeared to have half the town in, already lashed up. I think what bothered me more was their menu and choice of food options for GF. The meal I chose was Battered Blue Cod, Chips and Salad which had two stars next to it stating Gluten Free Option available. What I ended up with was poached Blue Cod, mashed potato and warmed up mixed frozen veg served with Hollandaise and Tartare Sauce. It was most bizarre but given I was starving and it looked like a local place full of local people, I said nothing and ate it. I just prayed none of the accompanying sauces contained Gluten after the ditsy barmaid originally served me a bottle of Ale not Cider. The time passed quickly as I tried to digest the monstrosity that lay before me. This, all before I boarded the Ferry for an hour long journey to Stewart Island. Luckily my dinner sat like a lead balloon prevented me from revealing its contents on the rather choppy crossing. My relief only resurfacing when I was back on Terra Firma. My accommodation, the South Sea Hotel stood proud in front of me from the Ferry stop, which was a welcome relief. I'd made it to Stewart Island and my home for the next three nights. My room small but perfectly sized with a side view over looking Halfmoon Bay. The place I was staying actually doubled as the local pub which was in full swing when I arrived. For once though, I declined the temptation knowing I had an early start the following day. The forecast had not looked kind for my time on the island with heavy showers forecast. Again my luck was in, although a little cloudy and grey, it was at least fine. I made my way to Golden Bay to catch the Ulva Island Ferry stopping briefly at Observation Point to take in the views. By now the sun was out and you could see the true beauty of this magical place. A ten minute ferry ride got me to Ulva just before 9am. This place described 'as the jewel in Rakiura National Park's crown' and is only one, of a few sanctuaries in NZ open to visitors. The island declared free of rats in 1997 following a pest eradication programme, allowed for the reintroduction of endangered birds into the forest once more. There were a number of walking tracks laid out for visitors to complete but all could be accomplished in about one and half hours. My return ferry booked for 11:30am, meant I had plenty of time to stop and take in the wonderful bird life. My old friend, the South Island Robin joining me once more, when I got my sandwiches out. Although I saw most of the islands incredible creatures, there was still one that had escaped me....the reason I was here in the first place and that would be, to spot a Kiwi. Incredibly a group that I'd shared the Ferry crossing with had captured some footage of one they'd spotted. This just heightened my determination now to catch sight of one before I left. Back on Stewart Island after the worst ten minute crossing ever and me paling three shades. I decided to take a walk around the coast taking in Golden Bay, Deep Bay, Ringaringa Beach and Peterson Hill before dropping back down to Halfmoon Bay. This also taking in Reverent Wohlers Monument situated high on the cliffs looking down on the exquisite coast below. The views simply stunning between the showers. With me gaining most of my exercise from stripping off and re-dressing, with what felt like, every five minutes. I got back around 2:30pm and this time it looked like the weather had closed in for good. So what can one do, when its tipping down? Incredibly, Stewart Island comes with its very own 'Bunkhouse Theatre' which shows 'Home-A Locals Tail' daily. Its a 40 minute quirky film narrated by a local dog called Lola. It features footage provided by the locals cut together to create this very informative yet entertaining short, depicting Island Life. The cinema even came with its own vintage popcorn machine. Well, who doesn't watch a film without popcorn??? It was also nice to know that this trip had allowed me to follow in the footsteps of Royalty with images showing Prince Harry having visited and met the star of the show 'Lola'. I looked on from a distance. That was close enough with my allergies! On exiting the theatre the weather had calmed slightly so I took a stroll to the islands i-site to book a kiwi spotting trip for later that night. Cancelled I got told due to the high winds. Try again tomorrow. That evening, I got tarted up ready to spoil myself at the Church Hill Restaurant and Oyster Bar. This was one of only three places to eat in Oban and after seeing the menu, it could well be a two night indulgence. It was the only 'a la carte' venue and one that had been recommended to me, by the lovely Hamish. I had visited the previous evening to make my reservation and had opted for a 6pm booking with the intention of going to hunt for Kiwis afterwards. With this now not going ahead I knew I didn't have to rush. When I arrived, I had the place to myself and obviously the choice of where to sit. Which of course I opted for the closest table to the open fire. It's the place I feel most at home. Maybe, it was because I missed my spot in the Welsh Bar where I'd spent many an enjoyable evening hoarding the fire there. ? It was difficult making a decision on what to have with so many wonderful options but finally, I decided to go with the Oysters to start with, being all sourced locally. I had three natural and three served 'Kilpatrick' style which meant they were cooked and topped with Cheese and Bacon. I ordered a Villa Maria Private Bin Gewurtraminer to accompany them. The exotic aromas of rose petal, Turkish delight and spice from the wine enhanced the natural oysters and was simply a mouthful to be savoured. I was glad I had tried the cooked 'Kilpatrick' oysters however I knew immediately I preferred them in their natural form. I did however chew one of the natural ones, after an in depth discussion with Lou on how to devour oysters where I personally like them to slip right down...and still do. ? To follow, I opted for the Stewart Island Salmon served with an array of vegetables and slightly spiced kumara cakes. To say this was the best Salmon I'd ever tasted still doesn't do it justice. It melted in the mouth like butter, the flavour immense and delicate all at the same time. The spices in the kumara cakes slightly warming but not over powering. The carrots, parsnip and courgette expertly cooked, completing this faultless dish. To accompany this course, I ordered a Villa Maria Cellar Selection Viogner. In fairness, I thought it was a pretty good match when the wine was left to come to room temperature. I had chosen grape varieties I knew my palette quite liked given their less dry qualities. I was a little concerned about my choices as I wasn't getting any steer on a wine match for either course but all in all it had seemed to work. After devouring such large courses, I needed to take an interval. It was wonderful to sit and enjoy another glass of Viognier by the fire and totally relax taking in the background music. These were the moments I cherished about travelling by myself. Having the ability to get lost in my own world, especially when I was now surrounded by couples. There was no pressure to make idle conversation with a loved one. This was all mine to enjoy and I relished it. I almost wanted to show off my Bridget Jones scales I was hiding under my clothes. ? My ciniscism and sarcasm obviously main reasons for my single lifestyle. Go me! ? Well unfortunately my singleton repellant was not working on all, when this rather older guy came across and invited me to join him and his female friend. Fair play, ten points for trying, -1 for getting anywhere. His female friend 'Irene' in hysterics at Keirans attempts to woo me. I sat and took my dessert with them which was a chocolate and tahini cake accompanied by berries and mascarpone washed down with an Oyster Bay'09 Botrytised Reisling dessert wine. A great finish for any meal. Relieved as I was, they left as I made sure I took my time with mine. The meal along with four glasses of wine came to £66 ($116)and was worth every penny. The entertainment being free. ? What a treat! The following morning, I slept in, after having listened to the rain throughout the evening. When I woke around 9:30am, the sun was shining but the wind howled. It didn't look promising for Kiwi spotting later, thats for sure. As I relaxed and took in a cuppa coffee enjoying the view of the harbour from the guest lounge, a Kaka decided to put in an appearance. A bird that resembles a large parrot with a vicious hooked beak. Incredible to see these creatures up close. Just about to head out, the heavens opened. I sat back down and relaxed enjoying the atmospheric view that lay in front of me. Entering a trance like state from the hypnotic movement of the tide. I knew I wanted to see more of the Island but my whole body enjoying doing very little. Eventually I decided it had been dry for long enough so finally ventured out around lunchtime and made my way the short distance over to Bathing Bay. It was an incredible expanse of sand and there was only me on it. It looped around further inland where I picked up a track to take me upto Halfmoon Bay Cemetery. This peaceful and quiet spot overlooking were I had just walked. I made my way back along the beach and got caught in a downpour. With nowhere to run or hide. Thank goodness I had already layered up in wet weather gear otherwise I'd have been soaked through. The rain falling hard making dents in the sand. Five minutes later the sun reappearing creating a wonderful summers day again. I stopped on my way back at a hidden bench overlooking the boats moored in Halfmoon Bay. It was sheltered somewhat so if it did turn nasty again, at least I wouldn't have the full pelt of it. All this sea air was making me tired but before I could take a knap, it was back to the Visitors Centre to check whether the Kiwi Encounter tour would be on. Again it was a No. I would just have to try my luck by visiting areas that locals had said they'd seen them. Tonight for dinner I wanted something a little different and spotted this rather cool looking 'Fish and Chip' place. Incredibly who were well up on their Gluten Free Options. Having had plenty of fish the evening before, I ordered a Gourmet Venison Burger complete with Swiss Cheese, Lettuce, Tomato, Onion, Paprika and Chutney with a small bag of chips and Heinz Tomato Sauce for a change. That wasn't the best bit though. He actually had GF mini doughnuts for dessert. Dipped in a cinnamon sugar, I died and went to heaven for the two seconds it took me to devour both of them. I could not remember the last time I'd eaten a doughnut or a full on burger complete with bun that was actually normal size. The food delicious and authentic given it was wrapped in newspaper to take away. ? When my food coma subsided and dusk was well upon us, I took to the streets armed with torch and camera ready to catch a glimpse of a kiwi. It was hard work carting my carcass up hill after what I'd just eaten. Still it would be worth it, I told myself. After about an hour of wondering about, having been caught in the rain and bitten alive and wanting to strangle a dozen Kakas who would not stop sqwarking, I was done. One thing I could say is that I'd walked where Kiwis lived and I'd seen recent footage of one. ? Maybe next time if I ever return to Stewart Island, I might have more luck. Typical, the morning I was boarding the ferry to leave Stewart Island, the wind howled and the rain lashed it down. I did think I should have flown out! Although the wind was too high, my only means of escape, the ferry that bobbed wildly up and down in front of me. I was dressed in full wet weather gear to battle the two minute walk to get on board. To say it was an horrific crossing, is an understatement!! Surrounded by half the passengers face down in sick bags, paling every second. My own stomach jumping up and down. Luckily I held it together, my secret to hold on tight and suck hard on my Werther sweets thinking what the day might bring. It was a most unpleasant start to the day, I can tell you. Once on terra firma, it was the wind that nearly swept me away. For once I was glad of the weight of my suitcase which was making an excellent anchor. Finally back in the car and not wanting to spend a minute longer in "Rough Bluff" as I could only now refer to it, I made my way onto Invercargill, desperately trying to escape the foul wind that was pushing the car on the exposed coastal roads. I arrived mid morning, the weather still rubbish, I headed straight for Southland Museum and Art Gallery. A rather odd building shaped like a Pyramid. There was a number of exhibitions that were kind of interesting but the best seeing a 130 year old Tuatara. It also housed a small exhibit on Burt Munro who broke the fastest land record for an under 1000cc Indian motorcycle. He continued to break further records throughout his life, one of which still stands. This depicted in the famous 2005 motion picture 'The World's Fastest Indian' starring Anthony Hopkins. The weather gloomy but dry, I took a short walk through Queens Park and onto the cities 'Water Tower'. An iconic structure in Invercargills cityscape. Simply frustrated with the weather, I decided to spend the afternoon in the cinema catching the new film in the Harry Potter Series, 'Fierce Creatures' in 3D. This being deemed a slice of normality before the non-stop touring of Asia, I was about to commence on. My accommodation in Invercargill both comfortable and ideally situated afforded me a good nights rest before taking the arduous journey back to Christchurch. The sun shone brightly, the blue sky interspersed with white fluffy clouds against the green rolling hills provided a pleasurable backdrop to the many hours spent in the car. With me breaking the journey up once, by returning to the Otago Peninsula to view this wondrous place bathed in sun. There I took lunch, overlooking the water at the Portobello Cafe, getting slightly cremated as I enjoyed a lovely cup of tea. Wanting desperately to stay and explore somemore, with a five hour drive still ahead, I continued on. It really was a scorcher of a day and as the road interspersed between the country and coast, it showcased New Zealand's true beauty. I arrived in Christchurch around 6:30pm to an Air BnB place close to the Airport. My final night in New Zealand was upon me. It felt strange to think, a whole year had nearly passed since I set foot in this quirky place, miles from nowhere. I think deep down, I wasn't quite ready to say goodbye, although I knew I could never make this my home, long term. I have probably covered more of this country than most who live here. It has been extraordinary, mind blowing, jaw dropping, flustrating at times. One thing, for sure New Zealand has left a scar. I'm not just talking about the physical ones up my arms from that bloody oven in Little Peckish, I mean the emotional kind that change you, help you grow, define you and shape what you'll become. So for a country that I only came back to through circumstance, I thank you, along with the life long friends I look forward to catching up with again. x

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