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Published: August 6th 2007
We made our way across the Cook Strait on the first
Bluebridge ferry of the day, there were slight delays because of the weather but it wasn’t too bad. Once we’d departed Wellington though we soon realised why there were delays, the sea was incredibly rough with huge swells and waves rocking and swaying the ferry from side to side, it didn’t take long till Faye and I had to run to the toilets to show our breakfasts the light of day again, fortunately it wasn’t too embarrassing as there was people utilising sick bags left, right and centre and most of the people who weren’t, really didn’t look too well at all. Mark was one of the lucky ones who, although didn’t feel too good managed to keep everything down until we entered the Marlborough Sounds. Once we’d entered the sounds the weather was starting to clear and due to being so much more sheltered the sea calmed almost immediately, making for a much more pleasant ferry journey.
Once we’d arrived at Picton, the ferry port on the South Island, we made our way immediately west heading towards Abel Tasman National Park, where we’d stay the night before continuing
our activities. We noticed immediately the differences between the two islands, the North Island features mainly rolling green countryside with the occasional mountain dotted around, whereas the South sports huge mountain ranges everywhere you look, snow capped peaks providing the backdrop to pretty much every view in most directions.
Abel Tasman National Park is a coastal park with numerous large and small bays with beautiful clear blue/green water lapping at the golden sand within. We headed straight to Abel Tasman as the weather was turning fine and it had been forecast to stay sunny and clear for the next few days, perfect for a spot of
tandem skydiving. We’d booked the dive the day before and turned up at the small airport in Motueka (a small town just outside the national park) with plenty of time to spare. We signed all the necessary paperwork and opted for the full package, which involved having another person jump out with you (as well as the person strapped to your back) with both a video camera and a stills camera strapped to his head so the full experience could be documented in all its glory.
After all the staff had finished their
lunch the time had come for the jump, we would be going up in twos as the plane is really small so Faye and I went first. We got all suited up and had our harnesses fitted before being led outside by our camera guys for the opening interview for each of our DVD’s. We then made our way out across the airfield and crammed into the tiny cabin in the small aircraft. Two people also joined us who were learning to skydive so with the eight of us all squeezed in it was a bit tight, but we were both next to a window so we could watch the view on the way up, as well as occasionally having a camera thrust in our faces by the cameraman.
When we almost reached our target altitude, our harnesses were attached and tightened up to our tandem jumper and then the door was opened. This was it, the moment had come, this was the point where I got real nervous. Did he tighten up my harness enough? Did he even attach me to himself? What happens if the ‘chute doesn’t open? All these questions would be answered very soon. The
two learner jumpers flung themselves out almost as soon as the door had opened, which made the pulse quicken a little… it’s not every day you see people throw themselves out of a moving vehicle, especially not a plane. I was next up, my camera man climbed out the door and moved along the outside of the plane so he could get the video and shots of me leaving the cabin, while we shuffled along the floor on our bums till my tandem jumper was sitting on the edge of the door and I was out all the way held only onto him by a few straps. I crossed my arms on my chest, leant back and pushed my legs back as instructed and then waited… it all happened so quickly, there was a sudden rush and a falling sensation as we left the cabin and began falling towards earth. I remember spinning around and seeing the plane quickly disappearing above me, then being brought the right way up and being told I can put my arms out. We were very quickly joined by the cameraman who stayed right in front of us filming every exhilarating moment of the freefall,
it was an unbelievable feeling rushing down and the views were simply stunning. After what felt like only a few seconds (actually ~60s freefall) the parachute was opened and there was an almighty tug as our quick descent was suddenly stopped and we began our gentle float back down to earth. Without the air rushing past we could actually talk and all the sights were pointed out. The views were spectacular, especially of Abel Tasman, the coast and the surrounding mountains. Sadly though it had to come to an end and we came down to earth with a bump hitting the ground on our butts. The parachute was quickly taken away and we were greeted by the cameraman for one last comment about how it was, so the DVD could be wrapped up. Soon after, I watched as Faye came gliding down and judging by the look on her face she was as blown away by the experience as I was, she was grinning from ear to ear.
We went back to base and greeted Mark who was all kitted out ready to go up on the next flight, we watched as he boarded the plane and took off.
Sperm Whale - Kaikoura
Well... just its tail anyway.We now had 15 minutes or so to kill before we’d see him again so we sat around in the sun catching some rays. Thankfully they have a radio on the ground informing them of when the jumps happen, so once we received the call we both stared up into the sky trying to see something. It didn’t take long before a tiny speck was pointed out and we watched as it got gradually larger and larger until he swooped out of the sky to safety. He quickly got up beaming, so we knew he’d had a blast. We all thoroughly enjoyed the skydive, the thrill is pretty intense, but your surrounded by the most incredible views that it would be hard not to enjoy it, I really wouldn’t hesitate to do it again.
After skydiving we made our way further towards Abel Tasman to the tiny town of Marahau, the main gateway to the national park where we booked ourselves a day
kayaking starting early the next morning making the most of the good weather while it’s here.
At 8:30am we turned up at the Kayak office where we met up with a guide who would be
talking us through the equipment and where would be best to go. After getting changed into all the required gear to keep us warm and safe we took to the water where the guide continued to talk us through what to do if things go wrong before being left to ourselves. We slowly paddled off into the park deciding first to have a look around the islands as we’d heard Fur Seals like to hang around on them. We didn’t find huge amounts of seals but we did catch sight of a mother with two large pups, which was definitely a highlight especially as our first seal sighting looked so much like a rock that Mark and I failed to get Faye to see it no matter how much we pointed, the two of us were just lucky to look in that direction when it moved slightly.
It took a while to get around and we hardly covered any of the park at all as it’s so large, but the water was so calm it was relatively easy. Also, due to it being winter, there was virtually no-one else around, in fact we only saw one other couple paddling
around the whole day. It was so beautiful paddling around the shallow calm clear water. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the sun was shining so we pulled up in a few bays to have a wander round, Mark and I were so deceived by the beautiful weather that we even tried to go for a swim, but we lasted literally 30 seconds before we had to dash out due to the freezing water temperature (we later found out it was 8º). The Package we’d booked, included a trip on the water taxi so we didn’t have to backtrack, we just had to make it to a particular bay by 3:30 so we could be picked up. We glided into the particular bay with a few minutes to spare ending a perfect day kayaking, although all out arms would be aching for a few days after.
Next on our itinerary was the small town of Kaikoura a few hours drive south east on the Pacific coast. There is only one real reason any tourist visits the town and that’s because Sperm Whales live and feed in the deep waters off shore, as well as large pods of
Dolphins and colonies of fur seals. We turned up quite late in the day and were unable to get on a tour for the afternoon, so stuck for something to do we decided to drive to
Hanmer Springs a town further inland which has a complex of hot springs. The drive was a lot longer than we thought but we drove through some incredible alpine scenery so our cameras were kept busy. After a long hot soak in the therapeutic waters we jumped back in the car for the long drive back to Kaikoura for our whale trip the following morning. With all this bathing in thermal pools our skin should be glowing with health by the time we leave NZ.
Our
whale watching tour didn’t leave too early in the morning and as we’d free camped virtually on their doorstep we luckily had a small lie in. We left in good spirits as we’d been told the previous boat had spotted three whales, so we should at least spot one. Sperm whales feed in the deep open trenches just off the coast and dive for over an hour at a time so the only time you can see them is
when they come up for a few minutes to breath, before diving back down again. We cruised for about 8 miles offshore when there was a call on the radio that a whale was at the surface so we all had to hold on tight to get there before it dove away, luckily we were there before it did. We’d been warned the majority of the animal’s mass is underwater, so all you only see is the very top of its head and a strip of its back but the real magic happens when it dives. It only took a few minutes for this whale to get its breath back before it’s back arched and it brought its tail out of the water in the classic photo shot before disappearing into the depths below. It was really cool and we all must have got about a hundred photos, flicker book style of every stage of the tail lifting slowly out and then gliding down.
We were lucky enough to spot three and a half whales while we were out on the water, we say half because one whale literally arched and then dove just as we pulled up near
it, not even giving us enough time to turn our cameras on, it must’ve seen us coming. After the whales we sailed off in search off other marine life and came across a small blue penguin (smallest penguin in the world) bobbing up and down in the surf, but he disappeared before we’d managed to get a good look and a huge pod of dusky dolphins. The guide estimated there to be 200 or more of the dolphins and they dove around and rode the bow of the boat before continuing their fishing activities, it was really cool to see so many jumping out of the water round the boat and chasing fish in formation. It was a really good end to a really successful whale spotting trip.
After Kaikoura we began the long drive to Queenstown in the South of the island stopping overnight in Christchurch to check out the city and also to pick up some supplies from the campervan office (hot water bottles, more bedding and snow chains). We also stopped overnight in a small town called Oamaru which has a
blue penguin colony on its shore. We were fortunate enough to turn up at dusk which is
when the penguins come in for the night after a days fishing. Most birds are present in summer with only a few residing here in winter and when we asked at the desk we were told it’s a bit of a gamble as the night before no penguins came in at all. The tickets were reduced in price though so we thought what the hell; we’d give it a shot. They have a small ‘amphitheatre’ set up around the area where the penguins come to shore with special lights that the penguins can’t see so they’re not disturbed. We waited silently in the cold, watching the sea intently with a few other people, when we were told that some were coming ashore as the guide could hear ‘quacking’. It didn’t take long before we saw six little bodies bobbing up and down in the surf and then shoot out of the water onto the rocks; they then slipped and scampered up the rocks to their nest holes up above the shore. We ended up seeing thirteen penguins come back; it’s amazing how excited you can get watching a little bird coming home.
Oamaru was our last overnight stop on
the way to Queenstown but we did stop briefly at the beach in Moeraki because it contains some ancient boulders which are almost perfectly spherical. We’d seen some great photos of people jumping all over them and wanted a part of the action. They are literally just boulders, but they do look a little strange just sitting in the surf on the beach, and we did manage to get our boulder jumping photos.
Once we arrived at Queenstown we parked up and headed straight to the tourist information centre, we had a lot to fit in while we were here and not a lot of time to do it. First off we booked a Bungy Jump, but the only spaces they had were for three days away so we had to try and fit the other stuff we wanted to do into the intermediate two days, Again due to limited places and budget constraints Faye and I had to make some choices about what we wanted to do, so for the day before the bungy we booked the Fly by Wire for Faye and Mark in the morning, and the Shotover Canyon Swing for Mark and Myself in the
afternoon. That only left the next day… we were trying to sort through the myriad of activities available in and around town when we saw a ‘learn to snowboard’ package at a really reasonable price, so we booked that, hoping that midweek the slopes would at least be a little clear.
With the package we were given the option of two different ski fields so we chose the
Remarkables Ski Area, due to it being further away from town we were told it would be less busy. We were booked in for two, 1hr 40min lessons in the morning and afternoon and the package included the rental of all the equipment. Before our lesson started in the morning, Faye and I tried to have a couple of goes on the slope to see how we’d fare. We lined up the board and shot straight down, building up an incredible speed really quickly, this is where we realised we had no idea on how to stop, so we just fell on our asses, which hurt like hell. After our first lesson we’d learnt a bit more control, how to stop and where we’d gone wrong, so after lunch, before the next lesson
we kept practising, growing more and more confident on the snow. The second lesson, built on what we’d learned in the first, with only a few extras and by the end of the day, sore and aching we’d both vowed that we’d definitely be going snowboarding again, as we’d really, really enjoyed it.
The next morning we got into town early for our pick up to go to the
Fly by Wire. Although not too extreme, this crazy experience involves being strapped lying down, into a manoeuvrable plane which is suspended over a canyon on a wire so you can’t crash into anything; the only thing that can go wrong they were told is that you can lose speed. You then get 5 minutes to cruise around at great speeds. After getting kitted out in jump suits, they each had a turn and judging by the screams, laughter and the occasional glimpse of a grinning face go shooting past, they really seemed to enjoy it and afterwards both agreed that it was really good fun.
We got taken back into town, and after lunch we went to the office of the
Shotover Canyon Swing for our afternoon jump. The Canyon Swing is
touted as the worlds highest rope swing, and involves jumping off a platform sticking out over the edge of the canyon, freefalling for 60m before seamlessly swinging out across the canyon. There are a whole host of options for the jump; the obvious ones being forwards and backwards, but there are some crazy ones like being strapped to a chair, or with a bin on your head. Mark chose to jump off backwards while I was going to attempt some flips. I went first, got all harnessed up and stepped to the edge of the ledge, when I looked down I suddenly realised just how far up we were, and really wondered whether this was a good idea… it didn’t help at all that the crew kept joking about forgetting to connect this strap, and saying every now and again ‘did I forget to tighten that?’ Oh well, I jumped forward and managed half a flip before I just flailed around wildly and swung down and out. It was the most incredible feeling jumping and falling and seeing everything spinning around, so much so that I decided that I was going to pay the extra and have another go. Mark
went afterwards with his jump, while I tried to decide what jumpstyle I was going to go with next. After everyone had jumped it was my turn again, this time I decided to try the ‘Gimp boy goes to Hollywood’, which involves being hung upside down from the platform with your arms held out, then they trigger the release. This was a much better experience as you’re just dangling there staring at the jagged rocks on the canyon floor waiting for them to let you go, then all of a sudden you see them rushing towards you before swinging out and away. It was a really cool experience and it’s certainly better than the rope swings I used to play on as a kid.
The following morning was the morning everyone had been secretly dreading about, or in Faye’s case openly and vocally dreading about. The 134m high
Nevis High-wire is New Zealand’s highest bungy jump, you jump from a large pod suspended in a canyon over the Nevis River. We chose to do this one as none of us had ever bungy jumped before and we thought if you’re going to do it, you may as well do it
properly. Before we left, Faye had already decided that she was going to go first as she thought if she didn’t she would probably chicken out. We were picked up really early and driven for about 45 minutes to the bungy site, where we were all harnessed up and weighed. This is where we found out they do the jumps in weight order, so Mark and I would be in the first lot to go, whereas Faye was right down near the bottom of the list (that’ll teach her to eat more pie), this didn’t go down too well and when we got the small cable car across to the suspended pod, Faye shed a few tears through sheer fear. Mark was up to jump first out of the three of us so he got ready and stepped to the edge, he hesitated a few times before finally jumping/falling off the ledge screaming all the way. This meant it was my turn, arghhhhhhh… While they hoisted Mark up, they got me ready, then once the bungy cord was freed from Mark they attached it to me and asked me to step to the edge. I looked out over the edge
and it was truly terrifying, Mark shouted at me not to hesitate as it only makes it worse so as soon as I heard the crew start to countdown I just leapt (I think I made it to about 3), the feeling during the freefall is so intense… you just see the river and canyon floor rushing towards you, it was so unbelievably exhilarating. Once I was back up to safety there wasn’t much left to do apart from watch everyone else jump and try and keep Faye calm till it was her turn. Once Faye was up, they got her ready and she looked absolutely terrified, I really wasn’t sure she was going to do it but as soon as she got to the edge and the countdown began she was off, no hesitation at all. Yay, I knew she could do it… Once they hoisted her back up she looked so relieved, she had tears in her eyes. Sadly though one jump wasn’t enough for me, I was too petrified the first time round to fully appreciate the jump so yet again I decided to cough up the extra and leapt off a second time. It was such
an amazing experience I really could do it all day, it’s just a shame I’m not that rich.
Almost straight after returning to Queenstown we booked a kayaking trip in Milford Sound for the next day so we jumped back in the van as it was a good 4 hour drive and it was already early afternoon. Thankfully there was no snow on the roads as we’d been told it can be a bit of a nightmare at times and often closed due to bad weather.
Milford sound is a beautiful place with clear calm water surrounded by sheer cliffs, and due to it being winter, snow capped peaks, which added an extra bit of magic to an already breathtaking sight. We chose to
kayak around the sound, rather than just get a cruise as it gives such a peaceful perspective on the water and the weather was absolutely stunning with clear blue skies and not a cloud in sight so it would have been a shame not to make the most of it. Due to it being winter we also didn’t encounter the huge swarms of sandflies that we’d been told so much about that bite and
bother tourists during the summer months. We had a great paddle around, taking in the various sights and saw seals and bottlenose dolphins too which was really cool, although the dolphins weren’t in a very playful mood which was a shame.
The following morning we left Milford and began our day long drive back around to Queenstown and then up the west coast to Franz Josef where we’d booked a walk on the glacier for the next day. Just as we left Milford we ascended over a pass and came upon the horrendous road conditions that we’d been warned so much about, it started with a little snow and slush on the road but the van was already starting to slip and skate about so we decided to put the snow chains on. Considering Mark and I have had absolutely no experience with snow chains before and had no idea how to even put them on, we did a pretty good job, only taking a few minutes on each. Faye then drove really slowly for the hour or so it took to get up and over the pass where the snow was getting heavier and deeper, still we made
it over and down and once we saw no snow on the roads Mark and I jumped out again and removed the chains. It was then a long old 8 hour drive to the glacier where we turned up in the evening tired and hungry.
Due to the torrents of rain the west coast receives, there is a lot of snow produced up in the mountains which collects in an accumulation zone and compacts producing the river of ice which steeply descends down the valley towards the coast causing the Franz Josef glacier. We set out early in the morning on a
guided walk of the glacier and were provided with full waterproof gear, warm socks hats and gloves and crampons which would enable us to walk on the ice with slipping. We had to walk for about 45 minutes to the terminal face, where we put on our crampons and set foot on the glacier. The guides had cut steps out of the ice in all the really steep places so it wasn’t too strenuous climbing and walking over it. Due to the glacier gouging and carving out the valley it picks up a lot of rocks and mud
which become embedded in the ice, this can make it seem really dirty in places but every now and again you catch sight of clean clear blue ice, which shows just how beautiful it can be. After a couple of hours walking we worked our way out and back to the transport which took us back to the town.
Our time in the South Island was sadly coming to an end with a ferry back to the North Island booked for the next day so after lunch we drove up the west coast and across back towards Picton. We stopped for the night at a beautiful spot next to Rotoiti Lake, which is part of Nelson Lakes National Park; we really didn’t have much choice in the matter whether we wanted to stop there or not as we’d driven too close to the shore and managed to get the van stuck in the gravel and mud. While we contemplated our options we broke out some beers and the lawn chairs and relaxed for a few moments. Our insurance and roadside rescue didn’t cover us within 10 meters of a waterway so that wasn’t an option, maybe we could’ve asked
someone to drag us out… of course being winter there was absolutely no-one around so it was left up to us. We raided a nearby building site skip for various bits of wood and dug it out as much as we could then jammed all the wood under the back tyres. Faye gunned the engine while Mark and I pushed with all our might. It took about two hours of digging, pushing, revving and cool wheelspins but we finally managed to get her back on solid ground, big celebrations were to be had, which meant it was time for more beer!
The following day we left the South Island on our journey back up to Auckland where we’d all be leaving New Zealand. We were sad to leave as we all preferred the South Island, at least we’ve got some amazing memories of the activities we did and even more of the incredible scenery we saw!
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Mum W.
non-member comment
Brilliant
A fantastic blog Michael and superb pictures.Just to see some of the wild life that you all have seen would have made my day.It was well worth waiting for.