Mt Fox [finally]


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Published: March 13th 2013
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Long drive south to Franz Josef with a pause for a decent breakfast (SEBI 6.9) in Hokitika. Franz Josef is the usual bustle of tourist coaches and backpackers. I find my digs, change into trekking clothes, sling a waterproof in the day-pack just in case and drive on south to Mt Fox. Not able to work out why I ended up booking digs in Franz Josef as opposed to Fox but never mind.

A half hour's drive and I'm parked up at Thirsty Culvert again - as I was all those years ago, but this time without RA, without the rain, and - amazingly - without too many sandflies. I discover the tailgate of the van (Rob - same size as a Toyota Lucida, seats taken out the back to make a bed) does not lock. I'm sure it has before - hasn't it? Maybe not. Oh well, nothing to be done about that now. Boots on, pack on, across the road. The DOC sign says 8hr return experience, equipment, danger, safety, etc, etc. I don't believe their time estimate but I check my watch - it's 14:04. I'll allow myself three hours up, hope that means two hours down and that'll get me back at least an hour before sundown.

I'm dripping in sweat and smiling wide by the time I reach the trig point at the top of Mt Fox. Its metal faces have been defaced by too many a visitor. One of them has a competetive streak: "95 mins bottom to top". The wanderer also has a competetive streak - instantly checks his watch and smiles wide - it reads 15:37 = 93 minutes. That makes up for the 17 second miss yesterday 😊

The hike up has been awesome - climbing moves to weave my way up through the sturdy tree roots. Ankles, calves, knees, and thighs singing loudly and happily and the lungs try to keep up. The trig point is in cloud but the route is not finished yet. A snowpoles lies just within sight amongst the modest bush above the treeline. No doubt, somewhere in the mist, the next one follows. And so on.

And so on I drag my legs, rising ever higher. The ridge falls away either side. I have no doubt the views down to the glacier and behind to the sea are amazing but only cloud is to be seen today. I run on harder and harder and eventually reach the end of the poled route. I look on ahead to the rising ridge and decide against running on into the cloud. Walking on only ten yards or so, I can just about make out the last snowpole behind me. Danger, safety, experience etc. Two hours exactly. I wolf down a pair of wanderer sandwiches and gulp down some more water as the wind begins to build and I realise how wet I am. It is a humid day but this is ridiculous. My t-shirt is dripping in sweat and I now realise I had the wrong boxers on - these are thermals. My trousers are dripping wet and it has not been raining.

Slightly disgusted at myself (but not enough to make me strip off in the cold wind for the descent) I scamper off downhill. Another hour and a half down the beautifully rooty scramble and I'm back at the van. Every muscle is complaining, now the pack is soaked through as well. At the risk of causing nausea...there is sweat on the inside of my camera case...yet the wanderer is smiling wide.

Tomorrow? Indecision reigns. I had decided to head in to Welcome Flat for a couple of nights before heading to Wanaka but a couple of other options have appeared in my mind. If the clouds are high enough here, Alex Knob would give stunning views of the FJ glacier. DOC claim this is also an 8hr return hike, despite being a full 10km longer than the Mt Fox route - work that out. Also, Mt Armstrong a bit further south is a worthy day-hike I've failed to reach before now (rain stopped play last time around).

On days like today and yesterday, the wanderer is very tempted to hang on South Island and happily ignore the test match in Auckland on the 22nd, allowing for a few more days in the hills down here in paradise. Could even make it to Paradise itself if I wanted to. Or land in Wanaka for a few days and pretend to be a local. What terrible choices to have to make.

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13th March 2013

Sweaty camera bag
Well, if you're major problem was a sweaty camera bag, then that's the least of your worries. Just forget the comfort of digs and sleep in the back of the van at one with nature!

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