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Published: November 28th 2008
Rain in the forecast and bitter cold nights...
I was undecided as to whether I should hike the Routeburn Track... And then I talked with a former ranger who had spent several years working in the huts, and she told me I could rent a Gortex jacket, trekking pole, and just about anything else I would need for the hike. So I decided this was an experience I couldn't pass up.
The first day poured rain and the waterproof jacket paid off in big dividends. Other than unpredictable weather, New Zealand is a hiker's dream. No snakes, bears or preditor animals! The trail went through a mossy rain forest that reminded me of the Hoh Rain Forest in Washington State back home. Lots of waterfalls, including a huge one that practically splashes over you. Between that and all the rain, my pants, shoes and gloves were sopping wet, and I was getting chilled. I was relieved to finally reach McKenzie Hut and shelter from the rain. I huddled around the cozy coal stove to warm up with the other hikers and hung up my wet clothes to dry. The hut had a big kitchen with several little gas cooktops
Earland Falls towers over the track.
The first day I hiked through pouring rain, but the waterfalls were spectacular.so I made a thermos of hot tea. There were probably 25 people there, from Germany, the US, Australia and New Zealand. Most were hiking in the opposite direction as I was, so I met new people the 2nd night. The bunk room was on the 2nd floor over the kitchen, and stayed fairly warm all night. After a couple of hours of arriving at the hut, the sun came out! And so did the views of the surrounding snow-peaked mountains. After my shoes dried out, I went on a short hike to check out the area. I was very impressed with the scenery and took lots of photos.
Day 2 - Crisp, cold morning with clear skies! Lake McKenzie was misty and glassy smooth with a perfect reflection of the mountains. This section had the most amazing views of all - up and over a mountain ridge (Harris Saddle) for 6.5 hours to the next hut. I had lunch at the shelter, which was completely dwarfed by the mountain peaks around it. How lucky I was to experience this section in sunny weather. The day before it was socked in and snowing at this altitude! The snow on
McKenzie Hut
Inside there was a cozy stove to warm us up. the trail was melted by the time I arrived, although I decided to hike the side trail from the shelter that went up above the snow line. After 45 minutes of carefully kick-stepping up a snowy slope, I reached the summit and was rewarded with a 360-degree view. I could see for miles and miles all the way to the ocean! Getting back down took an hour and thankfully I had the trekking pole. At the top there was a young couple from England - I asked if they could hike back down with me, just in case I slipped and slid. They waited for me and we all made it back down carefully with no problems. The hut that night was perched on a rocky bluff near a series of cascading waterfalls. It had incredible views over the valley below. It was super cold in the bunkhouse that night, which was detached from the kitchen, so I didn't get very much sleep.
Day 3- The last day was an easy downhill section through beech forest. It was partly cloudy, but fortunately it didn't rain. This time of year, the larger huts each have a warden who gives a
Kitchen in the hut
Plenty of gas burners to cook our food. The hut sleeps up to 50 people. There were probably 25 the night I stayed there. talk in the evening and lets us know the weather forecast for the next day. I was happy to stay dry all the way to the end of the trail, where I waited at the Shelter with 3 other women for our transport van back to Queenstown. As I type this email on the morning after I finished the hike, it's raining outside, and it's expected to continue through the weekend. My timing was perfect - I am thrilled that I decided to hike the famous Routeburn Track!
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Lara
non-member comment
we loved the Routeburn Track
I'm so glad you decided to do it, and were so lucky with the weather! We only did a day hike...