Queenstown...skiing the kiwi way...

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It is going to be fun writting this entry, and some of you may laugh few times at some of the comments. After being 4 years and a half away from New Zealand, I'm back to the land of welcoming people, gorgeous scenery and amazing wine....this time, to ski in Queenstown....4 nights here, and 3 full days of skiing. My last visit to Queenstown was in the summer, on a campervan, with the kids...and a campervan full of wine.



This time, I'm coming by plane...Bangkok to Auckland, and a fast transfer direct to Queenstown. But first, the kids are going to Vietnam for the coming few weeks, as it has been over the last few years. We went all together at the airport as there flight was just 3 hours before mine. All this after running like crazy for a full morning in Bangkok just to deal with the traditional chores. Well, kids were upgraded to Business Class on Turkish, and I couldn't do better than get my usual aisle exit row on a packed Thai Airways flight to Auckland...had to do it... and arrived in Auckland nearly fresh late morning in the Kiwi winter. I slept most on my next flight to Queenstown, not before enjoying my first glass...or maybe two of Malborough Sauvignon Blanc, nicely matched with an indian butter chicken and rice in the domestic lounge...welcome to the land of diversity...welcome to New Zealand!



I spent a full day at Cordrona and must admit, I love the place. Well, last two days were sunny, today we had two hours of pretty thick fog just around lunch time, I kept it pretty cool, even enjoying a little nap...you are never to sure what will happen with your legs if you cannot see in front of you...but by 2.30pm, it as back cruising cool slopes. And I have to admit, I'm relieved that my legs did the job....that I even if I cannot run yet, I can still walk...and that I had a great time skiing the kiwi way.



In Queenstown I stay at the Mercure. The place was actually pretty cheap...coming back later on "inflation in NZ"... My room was decent and clean...did the job...but what wa amazing was the view...I'm not sure any other Mercure in the world can bet that view!



Inflation...and wine...



Just less than 5 years ago, an amazing bottle of Sauvignon Blanc that was 15usd...is today a not so cool 25usd, if not 30usd. The wine is still very nice, but I truly don't enjoy the fact that a nice Dog Point (google it!), is today cheaper in Hong Kong than in any New Zealand shop. As a wine merchant told me, Kiwi drink beer.....we have a small purchasing power in the country...keep buying it from HK!



Also to note, Cloudy Bay...I was a fan, I'm not anymore...today produce more wine than the all Otage region together...well....they don't "produce" it, they buy it in bulk, process it....and than market it...not for me! But I was happy to try something I didn't know...Greywacke wine....by the guy who made Cloudy Bay famous...and he actually own the original parcels...and that Wild Sauvignon Blanc, aka a Sauvignon Blanc Aged in Oak...was pretty amazing...and a good 40% cheaper than a Te Koko! I know I've lost you....but these are good stuffs!



During my last visit in NZ...the most expensive Pinot Noir I could find was 65usd, with an average at 30-40usd....seems today, 60usd is just the norm....sad...



Why New Zealand in the winter...well, I could have rafted...but that's not what I do when there is snow around....it's skiing time! Over the last 24 months, I've been spoiled enough to ski...Las Lenas in Argentina, Alta next to Salt Lake City Utah, Portillo in Chile, Beaver Creek next to Vail Colorado, and Niseko in Japan this February. This simply read like the book of the best powder ever available on earth...all this with thin crowds. So to the people o Queenstown and New Zealand, I have first to apologize, this is what I'm going to compare my 3 days of skiing later on.



Little disclaimer first...and as General Patton would have said, you are Nuts ! I know, I'm Nuts! Three weeks ago, we had a pretty cool week-end in Bangkok... spending our Saturday water-skiing. Well, that was water-ski on Saturday morning...followed by an amazing BBQ...and yes, "some" wine...followed by...an afternoon of waterskiing...Morning was great, lunch was amazing...my first time going out of the water in the afternoon....my legs didn't like it...they went apart...and let say, my muscles just suffered...big time. To the point where I couldn't walked properly...for a good two weeks...don't even speak about running...and that was...three week-ends ago.



Didn't had much time to see a doctor, it was end of the school year, and few more things to prepare before heading the road...I knew it hurt...and I also knew the only thing that would be efficient...was some serious rest...for which I had no time. I know...Nuts! Last week, while diving in Sipadan, we met a Belgian doctor and his kids. Well, he must be seriously happy to be home, as they had their flight on MH from Kuala Lumpur to Amsterdam, but on the 14th July. That say, I'm feeling completely disgusted at what is currently happening in Eastern Ukraine, and I believe, even if it was an accident, that the word crime against humanity could be used! Hope those concerned will pay...deeply!



So the doctor told me, it's 6 weeks of rest for sure...rafting last few days....well....and you are going to ski...well....it may be 6 weeks rest from your last day of skiing. Whatever, it's a muscle, and beside suffering, there is not much that can be done. Have you ever heard me telling you I should slow down...maybe...maybe not, but on the ski, I was going...for sure!

I arrived in Queenstown airport and jumped on the local bus to the city. Here, inflation too has hit, and price are way more expensive than 5 years ago. A simple bus ride in the city, 4usd...so I went for the 7 day pass, even if I was staying only 5. The bus driver great me...than told me, hey mate, it's your lucky day, I've got a card with 4 days left on it, here it is, free of charge. Where and when does this happen, if not in the incredible land of amazing people of new Zealand! Big thanks mate!

Queenstown altitude is between...300 meters and 500 meters...since when do you ski so low...you don't...you eat, you drink and you sleep in Queenstown....and for skiing, you take the buses....to four places, Treble Cone, Cordrona, the Remarkables or Coronet Peak. I had 3 full days for skiing, Treble Cone being the furthest, I passed on that one. so first day was Coronet Peak, second day skiing the Remarkables and finally on my last skiing day, Cordrona.



This is also my last proper ski area to discover in the South Emisphere after being able to ski in Chile (around Santiago and at Portillo), Argentina (Bariloche and Las Lenas), Australia at Mt Buller, and yes, I haven't skied yet Tiffindel, planning on doing this in July 2015 with the kids...but that is going to be something else. And you may guess, Tiffindel is in...South Africa, bordering Lesotho!



First day, Coronet Peak. The place is run by the same company as Remarkables, so I rented my ski set for 2 days with them. You get a package including transportation, lift passes and rentals...nothing cheap...and 2 days doesn't give you a discount on the one day ticket if you ski both areas.



Coronet peak is only 25 minutes from Queenstown, so I was on the slope by 9am. The place was packed, this being the last few days of school holidays for Aussies and Kiwis. Coronet ski area is roughly located between 1100 m and 1700 meters, with the sun only appearing beside the mountain around 10.30 am. Nice slopes, not a lot of them, and I kept myself on the blue runs. Sadly, not that much snow, so it's mainly machine made...and pretty packed. Not the best snow...To add to this, ice is forming pretty fast...and by 11am, I hit my first "very icy" patch...one of my ski left...and I thought to myself...you keep those legs together...or it's going to hurt big time. It's funny to have your body sliding on the ice feeling the only important thing...is to keep your legs to each other...it hurt, just a little, and that was happily for me my only fall of the week. By 2pm, there was way too much ice on the slopes for me, it was time to get back on the bus to Queenstown! I had survive my first day of skiing!



Day two, and it's time to ski the Remarkables. The area is on the other side of the "valley" from Coronet Peak, just 45 minutes from downtown Queenstown. This ski area is also higher, between 1200m and 1900 meters...and it is way more "intermediate skier friendly". With my condition, I don't know what was the ideal...starting from tricky to easy skiing, or the other way around...seems I went for easier day by day...



The Remarkables is a really cool place....but with actually pretty few slopes. The snow was way better than at Coronet Peak, mainly due to the sun hitting the slopes way earlier. I spend a full cool day going down fun slopes, avoiding the only few slopes that had the reputation to be icy...better be safe...than hurting and not skiing anymore.



Day three....well, first, I had to give back my ski rentals, and organize my next day, this time in Cordrona. The ski area is further from Queenstown, a good 90 minutes drive, but it is actually way bigger than Remarkables and Coronet Peak, and I have to admit, way nicer for a skier who is looking for...or need cool intermediate cruising slopes. The last two days I woke up at 7am, today it was 6.20am when the alarmed rang...since when do we wake up so early to go skiing...ok for diving...but skiing and leaving the hotel way earlier than sunrise...welcome to New Zealand!



Next...food...my last visit to NZ was in a campervan...and we had the wine, the kitchen...may have had once or twice a meal I a restaurant, so don't remember much of the restaurant scene. Queenstown didn't look amazing in terms of restaurant...and I'm on my own! Yes, you have to know, on the slopes the average age is not young, I guess it is due to the high cost of skiing...in town, the crowds are really young...feeling like University time for me. Not much of a Moncler or fur-cladded crowd here. But still, a basic decent fast-food non-chain type is easily 13usd...



And than, there is fetgburger. You have never heard about it before, don't worry...me too. It's a burger joint. the first 48 hours I was in Queenstown, I passed in front of it few time, and it was always packed. Living in Asia, there is a rule, if there is a queue in a restaurant....hit the queue, and eat there!



Third night in town, I did...eat there...and did the queue at 7pm...you first queue for 10 minutes, they take you order and than tell you...it will be ready in 55 minutes! Yes, you read it...this is no Mc Donalds, not In-N-out Burger...this is Fergburger, and you wait for your order 55 minutes...I had time to get more nice wine for the evening! I came back 50 minutes later...they were pretty accurate...my basic burger, fries and drink were ready at minute 69! But what I burger! I google the place afterwards to find out that CNN hs claimed this place as being the best burger joint in the world...and there is no franchise...it is in Queenstown...or nowhere... I admit, that must have been the best cheese burger in my life...and as they claim it, truly, the sauce is not even dripping. You, or I couldn't even have ordered a second one, the first was simply too big, and too nice! Fergburger... google it!



I realize that this entry may have been one of my longer text ever, if you made it to here, well done. But feel re-assure, no more entry for a good week...a good week...for a good dream...coming soon...

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[D MJ Binkley]

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