Retraced our steps to Te Anau climbing steeply out of Milford to the Homer tunnel through rocks which shone with an intense bluey-purple. The sun was quite bright and the lovely valleys were gorgeous. After Te Anau we took virtually empty roads through pretty farming country with very few signs of habitation. We stopped for a coffee at a nice little cafe in a one-horse town. A lovely lakeside road eventually delivered us to busy Queenstown. Relieved to get accommodation at the central YHA. The twin private rooms are wonderful - better than many a hotel and a bargain at 80NZ$ a night. Queenstown is superbly set on a lake surrounded by beautiful high mountains - some of them capped with snow. An old steamer plies the lake tooting its whistle as it leaves the quay. It is a busy centre for organising adrenalin activities such as bungee and jet boating. Every other shop on the main road seems to sell travel options. Unfortunately Jen had developed severe toothache and so our first port of call was a dentist. Luckily he was able to see Jen immediately - small world - he had worked briefly in Lowestoft. He couldn't locate the exact cause of the problem but probably due to a dying root associated with Jen's fall at Newmarket years ago. He gave Jen some strong pain killers (he said next step up would be heroine). We made a provisional appointment to go back on Tuesday - so won't venture far from Queenstown till then.