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Published: November 17th 2008
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On the ferry from Wellington to Picton
Sheltered from the storm by the Queen Charlotte Sound approaching Picton NEW ZEALND - SOUTH ISLAND
7th September 2008
The day started bad. I was awoken at approx 6am by the gales actually shaking Peter’s house, unhappy.
Today we caught the ferry across to Picton, South Island, we we’re sad to say goodbye to Pete, Fiona and the children but we we’re equally exciting about getting back on the road.
On the ferry the wind was gale force and really throwing us around. Pili and I sat in the café and had breakfast and watched everyone else turn green, pussies.
The crossing took approx four and a half hours, running about an hour late. We finally went upon deck to have a look at the approach into Picton, once we were sheltered by the small islands the weather calmed down a little.
Pilar got a little upset during the crossing. A guy was with his family having breakfast was the double of David, Pilar’s brother. She just kept staring and I think they may have noticed. I got a little impatient with her because I don’t want her to punish herself like that, I told her to turn away and stop staring, this wasn’t me at my
We're the last ones standing
50% of the people we saw on the ferry were sea sick! best!!
As we left the ferry the rain eased a little. Within 10mins Pilar had got us lost. Again I was a little impatient but this has happened a few times. I take it for granted that I can read a map, plus she was still obviously upset by the David incident.
Well we finally found the right road that led us into the coastal hills and onto Nelson. It was a shame the weather was overcast as the views into the bays were outstanding. Almost vertical hills surrounding deep blue lakes, with inlets and a scattering of houses, probably holiday homes dotted along the shores. I should imagine it’s an idyllic place live.
We pressed on to the coastal road; if the weather had been better we would have stayed longer around the bays. We passed the beautiful Marybank Atawhai - Boulder Banks with it’s little and remote off shore islands. We just had to stop at Tahunanui Beach which disappeared into the horizon. The sun was getting lower by the minute as I was photographing the flock of Variable oystercatcher along the beach. It’s moment like this that I really love my photography.
We
Marybank Atawhai
Approaching Nelson tried to find legal parking at a scenic reserve called Rabbit Island. It would have been perfect except it had a small gated community which means we probably would have been kicked out during the night, not worth the hassle, I took some nice shots though.
After what seemed a very long day we finally found a campsite on the beach called McKee Memorial Park in Ruby Bay. We had a picture postcard view across the shallow bay of the twinkling lights of Nelson as dusk fell upon us. I cooked us a stir fry and we retired after I checked my emails (Pete thanks for the gadgets)
We woke at just before dawn and photographed a beautiful sunrise. We then had hot chocolate and went back to bed until about 10am, it’s a hard life!
When we crawled out of bed we packed up the van and hit the road north. Our first stop was at a place called Motueka and the info centre. I also checked the web for some news. We set off after about an hour and our first stop was at Hawkes Point which looks down over the vast hills and into
Nelson Bay, very impressive views into the valley.
Next stop was at Takaka & Anatoki Salmon Farm. I had been toying with the idea of catching a fresh salmon and cooking it over a fire on the beach. We walked around and watched some kids drag a couple of 5lb fish in, they literary jumped on the hooks within seconds of the trout pellets hitting the water. If I have to kill such a magnificent creature to feed myself and Pili I want to at least use all my skills and watercraft to catch it. This part of my life is dead, no regret, fishing has lead me to some amazing places and experiences but for me it’s over. In the future I will only capture fish with my camera.
We made a brief trek through some fantastic native forest to the Walnui Falls, complete with rope suspension bridge. Pili thought she was Indiana Jones, singing the theme tune to the film and adding the odd Spanish/English curse as she wobbled across.
The afternoon soon disappeared so we found some parking next to a river just outside of Waitapu. I cooked us some cheesy, chilli potatoes, with
beans and egg, not forgetting the bottle of Merlot, well its hard work all this travelling and fresh air, we deserved it!
It pissed down last night, I even got out of the van to check that the river wasn’t rising (thanks Pilar for reminding me).
Morning arrived, I stepped outside to answer the call of nature to find the bank of the river was occupied by several Whitebait fishermen, a women and a small terrier dog.
We packed up quickly and crossed the bridge then taking the immediate left and headed to ‘Pupu Springs’ which clams to have the cleanest water in the World. The skies had cleared overnight and the morning sun was warm, the air full of bird songs from the Tui and Fantail population. We made coffee and had our muesli in the car park. After breakfasting we took the leisurely walk through the woodland to visit the most impressive springs. The claim of the cleanest water in the World could well be true, gin clear with big trout. Again I took a card full of photos. There are 16 springs in all, the largest such site in New Zealand and I highly
recommend them to anyone reading this drivel.
Our next stop after a long drive on some very winding roads was Collingwood. A very pretty little coastal village with a large estuary where I came across a flock of twenty Royal Spoonbills, EXCELLENT!! We park up for soup, toast and more photos.
All along the drive up the North East coastline past the Parapara, Ruataniwha, Pakawau Inlets, the shore we saw large flocks of the native Black Swan. This jet black and crimson beaked species of swan is approximately one third smaller than the European Mute Swan, but it lacks no off its beauty. Pili and I stopped several times to sit and watch these very wild birds and marvelled at our unspoilt surrounding.
I don't remember if I've mentioned this previously but New Zealand is the cleanest country I've to date visited, I can't recall seeing a single piece of little, no beer cans, fast food wrapper our cigarette buts, nothing, I hope it stays this way too.
We then headed for our finally destination of the day, The Farewell Spit at the very north of the island. When we arrived we headed to the info
centre and The Paddle Crab Kitchen Café, which was closed. Fortunately the owner was doing the washing up and invited us in to sample the local beer and cider, which was much needed. He also fixed us up with a tour the next day along the Spit for just $50.00 each, half price. Pilar was going to let me do my thing while she chilled but she couldn’t refuse this bargain which I was very pleased about. Leyton (café owner) told us we could park for free in the field outside of his house. We had the best seats in the house, right in front of the vast beach at the beginning of the Spit. The tide was halfway inn and the shoreline was full of birds. A flock of Black Swans, a few Barr-Tailed Godwit, Varied & Pied Oystercatchers, White Faced Herons, Red Billed Gulls and even the odd Caspian Turn, it just gets better & better. Pilar and I had a brief walk on the beach then battled against the wind to cook some food. By 8:15pm we were cuddled up in bed with a hot chocolate. The only way to end a long day travelling.
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