Trekking on top of clouds

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From the Banks Peninsular we veered inland towards the brilliant turquoise, Lake Tekapo. Driving across a highland plateau, similar to those we experienced in China, heightened the anticipation as we glimpsed the milky blue expanse of water, given it's colour through sediment created when the lake's basin was gouged out by an advancing glacier.

With the sun beaming down and refracting the lake's sediment filled water, our eyes could barely cope. The camera was working overtime as we rolled into town and admired the diminutive, old Church of the Good Shepherd that sat on the lakeside. The old stone building is admired by many and used as a wedding photography spot by all the rest.

It was a beautifully hot day, the blue sky matching the lake, in our alpine surounds. Green contoured hills circled us and jutting mountains set the background, as we had dinner and enjoyed the long lasting day. The sun set at 10pm with a flourish of colours that gave the western face of the mountains a deep red hue. As soon as the warm glow of the sun had disappeared, however, the cold came. We had found the most idyllic camping spot by the smaller Lake McGregor but drastically underestimated how cold it would become at 4am. Our tent is by no means alpine ready and neither, even in our sleeping bags that Justin had given us, were we. The cold wake up did afford us the chance to see the uninterrupted glow of stars outside our tent, even if it was only for a very brief moment.

In Australia as soon as the sun was up we were out of the tent for fear of melting but here we just thawed out as the morning sun intensified. It was a another clear day and all thoughts of cold had vanished by the time we had found ourselves a secluded alpine grasslands breakfast spot. We had to dodge sheep poo as we lay the blanket down but were more than happy to share our surrounds with them, or them with us more like. This is New Zealand after all.

Driving around the open expanse we found Lake Alexandria where we came across a cult of holidaying locals. Children were swimming, dads were canoeing and mums were keeping watch from their waters edge baches (New Zealand term for a holiday cabin). It was this dreamy sight that convinced us of a swim in the freezing yet 'oh-so appealing' lake. No sooner were win in, than out, but felt all the fresher for it. The sun was their to help though, and had also warmed the rocks by the lakes edge for us to lay on and recuperate.

It did not take long for the soaring landscape to entice us into a trek. At around 5pm with another five hours left in the day we tackled Mount John. Starting out through very steep pine forest we huffed our way to the top and were rewarded with a breathtaking panorama. The second half of the three hour loop walk was a lot less strenuous. We strode, beaming with life feeling, as the path winded its way along Lake Tekapo.

That evening we were prepared. Like atop the Annapurna Base Camp, we wore all our clothed possessions including hats, gloves and our thickest socks. It certainly helped as our sleep involved less shivering than the night before. But, our bodies may have had some extra help in keeping warm. Since leaving the gastronomic wonderland of Sydney it was back to cooking kidney beans, chickpeas and lentils. The surge of pulses had caused our bowels to react, our diets so conjoined, that at times we were like a trumpeting symphony.

Out of the tent and gasping for air we hopped in the 'Jucy mobile' and set forth to Mt Cook. Known to Maori as Aoraki (Cloud Piercer), the snow covered peak dominates the rugged landscape around it. At 3755m it is the tallest mountain in Australasia and we could not help but levitate towards it.

The journey to this World Heritage Area was simply stunning. Lake Pukaki greeted us first with the same turquoise shine as Tekapo, but this lake reflected the awesome Mt Cook range. Like any good camper we had breakfast on the shore of the lake and like any madman I went for a swim. The winding, isolated road towards Aoraki kept us hopping in and out of the car to take pictures. Huge glaciers rolled down the hill (not literally), mountains rose above our car and the snow covered peaks just kept getting closer.

Once in the heart of the valley we laced up our boots and hit the Hooker Valley Track. It was an invigorating experience, despite my hay fever, as we winded our way along paths, over swing bridges, past glacial lakes, and all with an unmistakable view of the Cloud Piercer. We were extremely lucky to have a clear day so that even the mighty Aoraki itself did not have to pierce any clouds for views.

At the foot of the mountain was a glacial lake with icebergs floating in it. We sat with our toes in the freezing water as our hot bodies competed with the cooling climate. As always, when at the base of a looming mountain, I felt the urge to climb it, but also knew that the unwavering power of the mountain is not to be taken lightly. Many experienced climbers have reached the summit, conquering it's ragged steep edges, but it has also claimed many lives too. The Alpine Memorial at the start of the track was evidence of those who had just fallen of the face or been consumed by an avalanche. Triumph and disaster never seem far when you are climbing a mountain.

So for now, without the equipment, guides, or money we were not going to be scaling it and so returned along the well worn path. Our camp spot was dwarfed by the huge Mueller Glacier and Mount Sefton, thus providing us with a sheltered evening amongst the hordes of like minded campers.

The next day we walked to the Mueller Glacier Lake from where we could see right along the moraine wall. Ice cold water poured down from up high as we watched Mount Cook do battle with thick white clouds. The might and extremity of the mountainous enclave had a calming effect and we sat there for what seemed like forever. I felt I had to close my eyes to see more. Once open they were simply in awe of natures beauty.

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Comments

[mum backhouse]

Gradually catching up with your thoroughly enjoyable blogs. It was lovely to read about your adventures with dad and your christmas with justin. New Zealand looks amazing - absolutely stunning. I'm going to read on now! Looking forward to chatting later. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx