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Published: April 29th 2017
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We flew from Sydney to Auckland, on New Zealand's north island, collected our lime green and rather dated campervan (no central locking!) and drove east towards the small town of Clevedon. Set back from the picturesque waters of KawiKawi bay, the final preparations for the wedding we were attending were taking place. As the sky transformed into a stunning pink backdrop there were concerns about the marquee withstanding the cyclone due to hit the bay the following day. Luckily, the cyclone veered off on a slightly different course than predicted and the wedding went ahead as planned. We even got to try the famous McCallum oysters which are grown in the bay!
Having been warned of potential road closures and land slides we decided (at our own risk!) to make the 152km journey through the Coromandel region towards Hot Water beach in the east. After passing numerous road closures, landslides and entire fields flooded from the impact of the cyclone we made it in one piece to Hot Water beach. This unusual beach is famous because of its geothermal streams that flow underneath the sand. A popular activity is to dig holes in the sand so the hot geothermal
spring water and cold sea water mix, creating a pool in which to bath. Having forgotten to bring a spade we dug as much as we could before the water scolded our hands. After some fun at the beach we took the beautiful coastal walk down to Cathedral Cove, an archway created naturally from the eroded cliff side, and watched the waves crash on the shore.
From the tip of the Coromandel we made the 330km journey South to meet some friends at the Tongariro Alpine crossing. We eagerly set our alarms for 6.00am the following morning but were informed we would not be able to walk the famous alpine crossing due to severe winds and snow on Mount Tongariro. Determined not to let that affect the group morale, we grabbed our rain coats and set off on an alternative route taking us to the Taranaki falls and around the Rotopounamu lake. After a tough walk we were bitterly cold and soaked to the bone so we stopped to take a dip in the Tokaanu natural hot springs, heated to a soothing 37 degrees; the perfect remedy to relax our tired muscles! Back at the hostel,
which resembled a 60s ski lodge, we enjoyed a cosy evening of puzzles and drinks by the wood burner. It's safe to say that was the coldest night we had throughout the trip sleeping in the back of the campervan!
We headed north again the following morning and around the eastern edge of the huge crater Lake Taupo to the Huka falls. Looking into the falls, we were struck by the amount of water that is funnelled through a narrow channel and the sheer power created as it spills into the basin and makes its way down stream.
We drove 76km north to Rotorua continuing into the highly active volcanic landscape of the central north island. Gases escape through crevices in the ground, filling the air with white clouds of hydrogen sulphide, whilst mud pools bubble away on the surface, occasionally creating small explosions and splattering mud in the air. There is a lingering stench in the air that can be likened to gone off eggs and finds itself in everything, including (as we found out) clothes and hair! We visited Wai-o-tapo thermal park that hosts a number of luminous coloured mineral
lakes, deep craters as well as an active geyser that we witnessed erupting. This unusual environment, often desolate in parts was fascinating to visit.
Our last stop in the Rotorua region was the tranquil waters of Putaruru Blue springs before we drove 235km south east to Napier on the West coast. Many of the buildings in Napier were severely damaged from the Hawkes Bay earthquake in 1931 and has since been rebuilt in a quirky Art Deco style.
This was a quick one night stopover at the Napier YHA before leaving early for the 318km journey south west to the Putangirua Pinnacles in the Aorangi forest park. Arriving in the late afternoon we parked the car and set off down the unpaved path pushing our way through fauna and balancing on rocks to cross the fast flowing river. The pinnacles surrounded us from above, towering overhead. Due to strong winds the precarious rock formations come with signs warning of falling rocks. It was exciting to imagine the cast filming the Lord of the rings here!
We decided to continue onto the capital of Wellington that evening driving along
the windy, dark mountain roads to stay with some friends. They took us to the evening night market in the city centre which has a selection of stalls selling a variety of international cuisines. Taking advantage of the sunny weather the following day, we ate brunch at a rooftop cafe followed by a walk along Oriental Bay. In this quiet bay, close to the city centre, a killer whale was spotted only a few weeks back!
We needed to return our campervan to Auckland at the end of our trip so left Wellington and drove 353km north east to New Plymouth, a seaside town on the west coast. Visible from the city is mount Taranaki, a standalone mountain emerging from an expanse of flat ground. Unfortunately the mountain was hidden by a thick covering of cloud when we arrived but shortly after, during a sunset drive, we managed to view it from a distance. A hitchhiker we picked up the following day had climbed the mountain. He highly recommended the climb as the views were spectacular but unfortunately we didn't have time.
We took another detour on our way back to Auckland
and stopped in Hamilton to see a friend who has recently emigrated from the UK. They showed us the beautiful Hamilton gardens followed by dinner at the Good George which brews it's own cider and beer. I would highly recommend stopping for a homemade cider if you're passing through Hamilton!
Not far from Hamilton was our next stop, Raglan, a famous surf spot on the West coast, 161km from Auckland. It has a similar feel to Byron Bay in Australia with its hippie backpacker vibe and lots of quirky cafes and shops making up the small town centre. From here we made our way back to Auckland and spent our last couple of days exploring the city, relaxing in the parks and trying out different foods from the many cultures that make up the diverse city.
Although the land is vast, and at times extremely quiet, it's the driving between places and the sites on the way that make New Zealand such a special place. Cows being herded to new pastures, birds of prey swooping down from the sky in search of food, vibrant green scenery against a vivid blue sky that
stretches for miles, volcanoes, cyclones, rainbows, landslides, mountains, glistening stars in the night sky and so much more. I've left knowing that one day I'll be excited to return once again and see what New Zealand's South Island has to offer!
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