Second Chances - North Island

---

Well it’s back ‘oop north’ for what will be the first of a series of second chances. We arrived back in ‘Windy Wellington’ after a lovely ferry ride only to find out that the city had obviously been expecting us because right up the main street, almost to our hostel was a huge red carpet. At last, recognition, maybe we’ll be upgraded as well so Lisa can have her own bathroom. But no, dashed again, it turns out all the fuss and gathering crowds were in aid of the New Zealand premier of the new Peter Jackson film, Lovely Bones. So we did what all cool, laid back travellers would do, we stood and screamed “We love you Peter”. Not quite but an hour of star spotting resulted in a close encounter with Susan Sarandon, Saoirse Ronan & Rachel Weisz, the stars of the show and then along pops the Gandalf-meister himself dutifully working the crowd. Much to Lisa’s disappointment Marky Mark (showing our age) decided to stay at home but an unexpected, amusing diversion all the same.

The following day we set off to explore this nice city and all it has to offer. The superb Te Papa Museum was first, although it would take several days to see everything in detail we particularly enjoyed the ‘Awesome Forces’ exhibit, which looks at volcanoes & earthquakes but with particular focus on how these forces have shaped, and continue to, New Zealand. It gives a great understanding of the origins of the magnificent scenery and fabulous scenes of the last few weeks. It also brings home the current fragility of the country. We indulged in a simulator ride, which wasn’t much of a ride but was a great insight into the undersea world around the country. Of course no museum would be complete without an extensive delve into the history of the Tangata Whenua (first people) of New Zealand, the Maori history, culture, as well as modern works. The exhibit is completed by its very own, beautifully decorated marae (meeting house) called Rongomaraeroa. Although not the biggest city, Wellington is the capital and this super museum does the capital justice. From there we wandered the city, looking at the Beehive, the NZ Parliament building, a curious piece of architecture that won’t leave you sitting on the fence. Then onward to indulge some of Lisa’s literary passions and catch a glimpse of Katherine Mansfield’s birthplace, New Zealand’s most distinguished author was born and bred on one of Wellington’s hillside communities. Onwards then to visit the botanical gardens. You are quickly reminded that Wellington is built at the base of some very steep hills and this offers some great views but challenges the lungs. Upon entering the gardens we were treated to a magnificent display of Roses in the Lady Norwood Rose Garden. There may be better or bigger somewhere but we have never seen such a wonderful array of colours and scents. After completing the ‘stroll’ through the gardens we took the easy route down and used the 100 year old Wellington Cable Car to return to sea level.

Leaving Wellington for another ‘magic’ day we drove out via the Mount Bruce Wildlife Centre which offered a cheap deal to view the aviary. We assumed that it was because we were too time limited to enjoy the full centre, but it quickly became apparent that it was because there were no birds!!! Actually, that’s not quite the full story because at the end of the trail we finally had the chance to see a live Kiwi, New Zealand’s national symbol. The Kiwi is nocturnal and is also disappearing at a high rate because of the Aussie Possum invasion so the chances of seeing one in the wild are quite limited. They are really funny looking creatures, round fluffy bodies & long beaks, you can see why they are so loved. They are reminiscent of amusing and cute cartoon characters, shuffling around, poking their beaks into the debris on the ground searching for a morsel to eat.

Onwards to another of NZ’s passions, the Tui Brewery, and having seen the adverts where the place only employs the most beautiful women in the world Lisa finally understood why Chris had spent much longer than normal grooming himself that morning. Unfortunately, the reason for Tui’s slogan of ‘Yea Right’ quickly became apparent. So disappointed was Chris that not even the offer of 3 beers for $2 could lift the gloom. “Yea Right”. We ended the day in Napier, a lovely little town. We had decided to hurry through to Taupo because of the weather forecast but the brief glimpse made us realise we had made the right decision to come back here in a few days.

Taupo was the next of our second chances. We liked the place first time round and it offered a lot of activities. Even so Lisa was probably a bit surprised when, at the last minute, Chris decided as it was a lovely, cloudless blue sky he would throw himself out of a plane. Yep, despite all our protestations that we were there to see the ‘real’ New Zealand, that walking up a mountain was excitement enough, the lure of that adrenalin coursing through the body was too much to resist. It was very much last minute, which was a good thing because no time to do any serious risk analysis, look at the failure rates or really thinking about anything other than “have I got clean pants on” and would they remain clean. We were picked up immediately after arriving at the hostel and whisked off to the airfield. Those brave souls jumping were given a long introduction and a detailed look at all the options available (sales pitch) and after being told don’t worry we don’t ask for money until you are safely down, taken outside and given the safety brief which consisted of “hold on tight”. We were given a jumpsuit, biggles flying helmet, gloves and a prayer card (only joking). Then Lisa jealously watched as a burly young Kiwi called Joel strapped himself to my back (and wondered why she couldn’t just have him strapped to her back, but without jumping) and frogmarched me towards a plane that had only had two previous owners, the Wright brothers. We hopped onboard and immediately shook and rattled our way down the runway and then into a steep climb. It took about 20 minutes to climb to altitude and that time was filled with an amusing chat with Andy, the chap I was paying to film this stupidity, asking “why so pale, thought you’d just been to Florida”. Uh oh, the dreaded tap on the shoulder which meant the door was opened, and a view that I had only ever seen on Google Earth appeared, “Bloody Hell that’s high” I thought at the same time as “Yep I’m great” was coming out of my mouth. I turned around to discuss the possibility of returning to earth still in the aircraft and the git fell out of the plane with me attached. It is not often that I am lost for words but it really is impossible to describe the feeling in those first few seconds of freefall; terror, exhilaration, every nerve ending was straining to burst but at the same time I felt a fantastic calm. Then you can really start to enjoy yourself, if hurtling earthwards at over 200 Km/h is ever enjoyment. You can see for miles and it was a beautiful clear day, both East and West Coasts of the North Island were visible, the huge Lake Taupo, started as a puddle and was growing swiftly, looking down into the crater of Mount Doom (Frodo never saw this) and all the time trying to smile for the camera. Then suddenly we turn through 90 degrees and we’re vertical, looking up this huge handkerchief has opened above our head, relief is probably not a strong enough word. Now it’s time to enjoy the ‘slow’ descent back to terra firma, nope, young Joel decides to show off and starts spinning in circles and descending at an alarming rate. “I’d love to stay up here forever’ I tell him in hope that he will recommence our leisurely descent, no such luck. All too soon our landing zone appeared and I waved at Lisa, merrily snapping away, then I realised she was approaching really quickly and leisurely suddenly didn’t seem so. Legs up just like I’d been told and Joel’s bought us down to a very inelegant landing on our bums, but I have to tell you the aesthetics really don’t compare with the sheer unadulterated joy of having made it alive. To say it’s the best thing I’ve ever done probably bigs it up too much, it is certainly the biggest buzz I have ever had and it’s up there in the top few - and the pants remained clean . Terrifying and exhilarating. Would I do it again, you bet.

What to do to follow that, oh yeah, try a walk described as “possibly the best one day walk in the world” and one that a few friends nearly died attempting a few weeks ago. We had hurried on to Taupo because the weather forecast was good for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. At 5am the following day we rose, packed everything we had been advised to take, and more, and hopped on the transport out to the starting point at the Mangatepopo Valley Rd. We chatted to all our fellow trampers, hoping that if disaster struck they wouldn’t abandon us, and set off on the gentle stroll up to the Soda Springs, a pleasant waterfall & stream. From there you pass a few signs that hint of the trial to come “Are you sure you want to do this?”, a few meters further on “This track gets really steep you know” and finally “If you are going to ignore me make sure you are carrying water, oxygen and short wave radio”. Chris persuaded Lisa that they were joking and it probably wasn’t much steeper than the Sutton Poyntz hill. Ooops. The climb up to the South Crater, between Mt Ngauruhoe (Doom) and Mt Tongariro, was tough, even with regular stops, water breaks & tokes on the inhaler it was as challenging a climb as we have tried. The relief when you walk over the crater’s edge and see a big flat plane stretch out before you and realise that the worst part of the trek is over was a great feeling. At the other side of the plain a short steep climb which gives you the first taste of the wind at the peaks. Even on a calm day, the breeze was reaching 40-50 Km/h and was enough to chill you very quickly. We soon reached the highest point (1886m) of the whole crossing at the Red Crater, amazing. The views were quite simply stunning, incredible colours, looking down on mountain peaks and looking up at those famous slopes of Mount Doom. At this point it really comes home that the beautiful things in life require a bit of pain to appreciate. We crossed the peak and started the trek down coming first the stunning Emerald Lakes. What a great spot to stop for lunch, picturesque picnic sites have become a feature of this trip. After this it was onwards and downwards, skirting Te Wai-Whakaata-o-te Rangihiroa (Blue Lake), passing the steaming Ketetahi vents of the volcano, one more hut and then down to the final passage through the forest. Rounding a corner and seeing all your fellow trekkers lying on the grass, resting weary limbs is a great feeling & hours after starting we had made it, defied death, faced down every challenge and obstacle, it felt good. The bubble of self-satisfaction was quickly burst when some spotty teenager pranced past having walked it in t-shirt and flip flops in 4 hours. Too tired to care? Yep.

The following day another walk beckoned, having rewarded ourselves with a nice Merlot and steak dinner the evening before, we decided that a slow stroll down to the hot springs was in order. Expecting it to be busy, being a free spa, we were pleasantly surprised when we could spend a wonderful couple of hours relaxing aching muscles in a natural hot water pool that stood on the edge of the mighty Waikato. Chris insisted that going from the near boiling spring to the near freezing river was great for muscle easing, Lisa wasn’t convinced preferring . A relaxing day was the end to a truly memorable period in an already memorable trip. Back to Napier now to find out what we missed.

---

Photos

The Real Star
Susie - Not bad still

Homely
Te Papa's Marae

Beehive
Eyesore or inspired ?

Where's Bellamy?
The lush slopes of Wellingtons Botanic Garden

The sign says it all
This is the getting to know you session

Falling
Pleasure or Pain - Still Undecided

Still Falling
You sure can see a long way, but it gets bigger quickly!

The Begining
It seemed such a good idea at this point.

Conquering Mount Doom
Following in Frodo and Sams footsteps

Emerald Lakes
Not a bad spot for a bite to eat.

Happy Xmas
Resting those aching limbs

Tongariro Crossing
Tough, but worth it

Wot No Frodo
Working the crowds

Spooky
Above the clouds and they're chasing us

So High
Fantastic Views

Blue Pool
Beautiful

Moon Landing
It felt like it sometimes

The Red Crater
Incredible to see it up close.

Freefalling
Just good friends

Comments

[Chris and Lisa]

Any Comments?
Feel free to add any comments you wish. It would be good to know if you are enjoying it or if there is something we should do differently. Missing You All xxx

[Paul Filby]

Have a great new year in Sydney...
Really enjoying your travel blog, and good to see you've spent a while in NZ. I was in NZ for most of 2003 (tramping for the first half, working in Wellington the second) and this brings back some happy memories! Have a great new year in Sydney -- looking forward to more travelling tales!