Leaving Paihia travelling north the roads become more deserted and the landscape even less populated. We descended to a bleak bay with many trailer homes (each with at least one abandoned car - or in some cases an old wreck of a bus). We passed some fields of emus. We passed remote and atmospheric small places on lovely bays. Highlight was a cafe stop at the Old Saddlery in Kaeo. Eventually we arrived at the workaday town of Kaitaia. The rain poured down as I went out for a newspaper and supplies. The hostel was friendly. A group of Australian teenagers were staying but they were well behaved and supervised and made the place lively.