Hokianga and the Kauri Coast


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Oceania » New Zealand » North Island » Northland » Omapere
November 1st 2007
Published: November 4th 2007
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It was a crisp spring morning that greeted me today. It had been clear overnight and as a result, the temperature had dropped. I recall a figure of 8C mentioned on the radio and, despite the vents being open, the inside of the windscreen had misted over. Stepping outside, it was still cold although the clear blue sky heralded a good day ahead. The birds were still busy singing, even though the sun had been up for an hour or so.

I sat in the van, with the door open, munching my way through a few bananas, some toast and muesli and warming my hands around a mug of fresh coffee. All the time, I was studying the guidebooks just to ensure that I knew where I was going - it’s very difficult to map read and drive at the same time! Today was going to be a long journey as it was the end of my trip around the north and the start of my journey around the southern half of North Island. There would be time for some sightseeing this morning but the remainder of the day would be spent travelling back to Auckland so that I could make the most of tomorrow.

Leaving by 09h15, I headed out of Ahipara and on to the alternative route south, through the Hokianga. Sounding like a Norwegian mountain district, this would certainly be a very hilly and tricky journey, though beautiful. I wasn’t wrong. The route out from the beach was steep almost from the start but the views were rewarding. It was very tiring, trying to negotiate all the sharp corners in such a large van; I’m getting used to the signage but sometimes the corners can be a little tighter than indicated!

Still in Maori country, I passed through a number of very small homesteads, comprising a couple of houses, a school, marae (meeting house) and a shop. Oddly enough, there was usually a rugby pitch too. Though very quaint, there appeared to be very little to entertain children and young adults or even to maintain a population. Nevertheless, this was home to those who stayed.


The Hokianga

After 35 minutes, I came to the sign informing me that the ferry was 14km ahead. On these roads there was no way I was going to complete the remaining 14km in 25 minutes. The ferry ran but once and hour and I was aware that from this side, there’s absolutely nothing. Sure enough, I arrived at the landing just as the ferry cleared the 100 yard mark! Two minutes earlier and I’d have saved an hour.

Pulling up at the water’s edge, at least I’d be first on the boat. I locked the van and wandered over to an enterprising soul who had brought her van and was selling everything from coffee and iced buns to woolly hats and rag dolls. As I discovered, she seemed to make a living from it although $40 a day didn’t seem a lot to me. Mind you, the coffee was superb - ground in one of those very professional machines and served strong! As we talked, chickens wandered around us - which reminded me of lunch! Whilst waiting, I was drawn to the weeds growing along the road and up the hillside. We’d be paying good money in the garden centre for some of these at home - orange Nasturtium, Red Hot Pokers, Arum Lily, Calyx, pampas grass, Bird of Paradise - they were all there, and presumably originated from these shores.

The hour seemed to go
Tane MahuteTane MahuteTane Mahute

This kauri tree is between 1500 and 2000 years old
quickly and by the time the boat arrived, there was a full load. I understood there to be a 30 vehicle limit on the boat and there were certainly no where near 30 cars - I suspect the seaman had not bothered to pack us in tightly. Apparently, during the Christmas period, it’s not unknown to have to wait all day to get across on the ferry.

The 15 minute trip was completely uneventful, although the breeze out on the Hokianga was very welcome through the open window. The water was like a millpond and it was impossible to know we were actually moving unless your eyes were open and you saw the boat’s wake.


Oponoui and Omapere

Being first off the boat, I let all and sundry pass as I wasn’t in any particular hurry and headed out of Rawene back towards the Twin Coast Highway. The Hokianga was named by the Polynesian navigator Kupe, the founder of Maori lore and has been settled by the Maori for some considerable time. The area is protected from the sea by sandbanks and offers a sheltered harbour.

It was into these waters that a certain mammal appeared in the 1950s. Because absolutely nothing else happens, the arrival of the friendly dolphin (subsequently named Opo) caused quite a stir. It would perform acrobatic feats, play with the children and even do tricks with their beach balls. It became such a phenomenon that hunters would come and an act was pushed through parliament protecting the dolphin. A song was recorded and released nationwide - just as news reached the world that the dolphin has been killed by dynamite fishers. Nothing still goes on in Oponoui, so the name of Opo the Dolphin is kept alive - and why not - it draws in the visitors!

Heading towards the next hamlet, I followed the road along the water’s edge; there were magnificent views to the sand hills on the opposite bank. There’s not a lot to see in Omapere either, however, the views from the south side of the harbour entrance are staggering. From the cliff tops, the clear blue sea beats itself against the white sand and the rocks below. It was a fine place to have lunch - a couple of boiled eggs and a cup of tea. The advantage of a camper van!


Waipoua Kauri

ForestLeaving Omapere, the road climbed steeply and all views of the sea were hidden. I was now becoming immersed in the Kauri forest. These trees are related to the pine but only grow in New Zealand. They are very long living, very large and have the peculiar habit of producing an incredibly straight trunk, from root to canopy. Indeed, the first stop in the forest was to see Tane Muhate - estimated at between 1500-2000 years old and having a 46’ girth. Unfortunately, photographs can’t give an indication of the size of this “God of the Forest”, but believe me, my van would comfortably drive through it (if it were hollowed - the tree, that is).

The remainder of the journey through the forest was slow but spectacular. Tight corners, narrow roads and single track bridges meant that the 60km took nearly two hours - that’s an average speed of about 20mph in English.

Before leaving the forest, the guidebooks recommended a visit to the Kai Iwi Lakes. These are dune lakes and rely on rain water to maintain their level. Apparently, the small beaches have crisp, white sand and the water changes from light to dark blue
The Silver FernThe Silver FernThe Silver Fern

Symbol of New Zealand
across the surface. The lakes are very popular with the locals for swimming and it’s difficult to find a parking space. There must have been a repeat of the Antiques Roadshow on television, because when I went there, it was deserted - and lifeless - and not worth the detour.


Back to Auckland

So that concludes my trip around the north of North Island. From here on, I head south making my way towards Wellington before turning back north again. I continued towards Auckland through some very nondescript country eventually arriving at the North Shore to camp. I have to say that I’m so grateful this was not an earlier stop - I’ve seen more people this evening than over the past week all put together. I do admit that I’ve only stopped here because it’s just over half way from Ahipara to the Coromandel Peninsula and it will give me the opportunity to stock up on essentials. Oh, and I came across the first set of traffic lights since leaving the far north.

Whilst the camp is very 1970’s and horribly tacky, my van is right on the sea front and I suspect I won’t sleep due to the tide! There’s supposedly a good sunset, but the cloud has come in and there’s nothing. At least I can get a meal and breakfast in town, which will save on my own supplies.

Tomorrow, I cross Auckland Harbour Bridge at rush hour - oh joy!

Distance travelled: 370km / 231 miles

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