Bay of Islands

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There’s nothing quite like waking up by the side of sandy beach, trees gently rustling in the warm morning breeze and the seabirds’ cries welcoming the new day. Today was nothing like that. Clearly the cockerel had had problems with its voice and the day was greeted by the braying of a donkey. I’d slept surprisingly well. The duvet was warm, the site was quiet and the boiler was off (as I found out when I had a wash).

My first morning in the sun! Like every other camper it was a case of improvising breakfast, which in my case consisted of strong black coffee (several), muesli (some), cheese (that’s enough), fresh milk and fresh orange juice (two) all washed down by toast and marmalade. As Oscar Petersen played on in the background, I prepared myself for a much gentler day.

Having washed and dried the dishes, I walked round the van trying to remember everything I’d been told. I turned off the LPG, folded the step away, stowed the power lead properly, ensured all the cupboards were locked and switched the fridge over to battery power. Very pleased by the fact that I’d remembered everything, I pulled away and headed back to the main road.

After a few minutes, there was a beep from the phone on the dashboard. I ignored it. A few minutes later, there was another beep - the battery was dead. Not worrying too much, as there was no signal anyway, I carried on back the way I’d come in the previous evening. Behind me was a third beep - my other mobile phone was now getting low. Again, not being too concerned (due to the lack of signal) I continued keeping my eye out for a right junction that would cut off a corner. I missed it.

I’d received a recommendation that a trip to Russell was worthwhile. As I was heading for Waitangi in any case, it made perfect sense. I found another right hand turn and headed off towards the coast. The sky was perfect and the views were fantastic. I finally came to the coast and, despite the breeze, the clear blue sea was hosting a couple of intrepid kayakers. This was my first view of the Bay of Islands and it was stunning. Having stopped, I decided to put the mobile phones on charge. Interestingly, neither would show any intention of receiving power from the socket, no matter which socket I tried, or which combination of lead/phone/adapter/socket. I was resigned to the fact that there was a problem with both chargers or both adapters and I would have no phones for the entire holiday - despite having two.

I continued up the coast road, counting the sheep as I went and soon came to a notice informing me that the road was now gravel - for the next 30km! Off I went, up and down hill, through the kauri forests with teasing glimpses of the blue sea at intervals. Unfortunately, the opportunity for photo stops was limited and the driving conditions made it pretty much impossible to view the scenery in any case. Finally, I reached the end of the unmade section and, noticing on the map that there was only a passenger ferry from Russell across the bay, I decided to avoid a visit and take the only road out. It was tarmac - for the first 100 yards and then another 35km of gravel!

Having covered the back of the van in dust, I eventually arrived in Paihia in time for lunch and noticed a sign indicating a vehicle ferry to Russell. I discarded the map. I can’t think of a suitable word to describe the view - ‘stunning’ doesn’t do justice and ‘beautiful’ is not strong enough; surely this must be one of the natural wonders of the world. Parking up, I grabbed my camera and headed off into the city (population 1850). Finding a suitable place for lunch, I ordered a strong coffee and an all-day breakfast and settled down on the balcony overlooking the Bay of Islands. Suitably nourished, I headed off to what is probably the most important site of historical interest in New Zealand.

After walking a couple of miles, I crossed the estuary and arrived at Waitangi. This place is significant in the history of modern New Zealand as it was here that, in 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed between the Maori and Britain. The site includes an enormous waka (war canoe), a Maori meeting house (unnamed to signify that it belongs to all Maori tribes), the Treaty House and the flag pole, marking the approximate site of the founding of modern New Zealand. In the same way that the Magna Carta is enshrined in the British constitution, the Treaty of Waitangi is still very much a live document.

Returning to the Paihia, I purchased a new kettle for the van (keeping the receipt for later redemption) and set off for Kerikeri. Approaching the city, I was channelled past orchards of oranges and avocados (Avos) finally coming to a stop at a delightful riverside camp site. Paying my $19, I hooked up the electricity and then realised that the sockets only worked when connected to power (and not the battery!). Embarrassingly, I put both phones on charge and got out the kettle that came with the van. Relieved to find that it really was broken, I broke open the new kettle and settled down for a cup of tea, planning for a quiet night - at the local vineyard!

Distance travelled: 138 km / 86 miles

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Photos

Whananaki North
Similar to yesterday's photo - except it's early morning and the tide is in. Apparently, this is the longest footbridge in the Southern hemisphere ...

Waikino Forest
Came this way because, according to the map, there was a passenger ferry (not a car ferry) from Russell. After an hour of travelling, the road signs indicated otherwise!

Waitangi - The Flagpole
This flagpole marks the approximate site of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, on 6th February 1840

Waitangi - Meeting House Detail
The Maori give their meeting houses (whare runanga) names according to their particular tribe. This meeting house does not have a name - signifying that it belongs to all Maori, irrespective of tribe.