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Published: January 21st 2015
Land Ho! After seven days at sea we woke up, looked out the window and there was a wall of green. In the middle of nowhere, far from any continent, lies the beautiful group of islands known collectively as French Polynesia. Inhabited for thousands of years and made famous to Westerners by the likes of Gauguin, Heyerdahl and Michener, these lush, romantic specks of land have fueled imaginations with dreams of tropical isles, soft breezes and gorgeous people for centuries.
Nuku Hiva, being the northernmost island of this chain, is the first stop for sailors venturing west from the Americas as well as cruise ships making their way to the South Pacific. This small, undeveloped island is home to about 3000 people and is a favorite of French tourists.
On the morning of our arrival, the Aranui 3 was docked at the small pier offloading provisions and passengers. This ship is the supply lifeline for most of the outlying islands in this vast archipelago. She loads its cargo in Papeete and travels on a circuitous 14 day route delivering food, building materials, furniture, clothing, livestock and medicine. It is also a relatively inexpensive way for
ARANUI 3
The little ship that delivers the goods in Polynesiavisitors to explore the most out of the way islands here. A friend of ours spent a month on this ship in one of the dormitory rooms and loved meeting locals and tourists alike.
We took a hike around the large horseshoe bay of Nuku Hiva in order to visit our friend Rose. We first met Rose in 2009 and have been dropping by her place whenever we pass this way. Rose and her husband sailed from America many years ago, fell in love with the Marquesas and ended up settling in Nuku Hiva. Rose set up a museum on this island which is filled with local artifacts and wooden carvings. Her husband passed away and rather than returning to the USA, Rose decided to build a hotel for tourists. When we met up in 2011 she had just received a shipment of building supplies and was in the final planning stages for the He’e Tai Inn. Now it is up and running and receiving good reviews from visitors. We had a nice lunch at her restaurant. Rose is a remarkable woman and is making her mark in her adopted land.
The stop in Rangiroa was a first
TAHITIAN BEAUTIES
They sang and danced their way into our hearts for us. This is the largest atoll in French Polynesia and home to the famous black pearl industry. Since there are only two cabs on the atoll and the local resorts are closed to day visitors, we decided to hike to the public beach. It was a long walk on a warm day but well worth the exercise. We snorkeled and swam in the warm blue waters and then took a water taxi back to the pier. As we were sailing out of the very narrow reef pass a group of dolphins led the way.
Because we have spent so much time in Tahiti, we find it easy to get around and like to return to some of our favorite haunts. In Moorea we went snorkeling off the Sofitel Hotel beach and in Papeete, the capital city of Polynesia, we visited the central market which is the heart and soul of this lively city. Our very favorite swimming pool in the world is located at the Beachcomber Hotel. This is a sandy bottom, free-form pool at the water’s edge overlooking Moorea in the distance.
We had dinner in the rain at the rolling truck restaurants which set up
SHIP'S TENDER
Most islands require anchoring and tendering passengers in this boat wares every night right by the port. It is a dynamic scene filled with families and teenagers out for a night on the town.
In Bora Bora we found the perfect beach. We hopped on the bus and asked a local for a recommendation. He told us of the Maitai resort which allows visitors to use its facilities and enjoy the gorgeous, fish-filled waters. Since this is the rainy season, most of the resorts are pretty empty. Tahiti is quite expensive and according to our driver, the prices scare tourists away. We noted a $25 grilled cheese and $12 beer on a menu at one of the hotels. That’s one of the reasons being on a ship is a great way to visit the most beautiful islands in the world!
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Elizabeth Moya
non-member comment
wHAT FUN
As always, love your blogs. and looks like you are all having a great time---one of these days, I'll break loose of Regents 'golden handcuffs, and join the fun on SilverSeas---