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It's been a 18 months since since I last published a travel blog.
The date is Wednesday, May 1st, 2012 and time to head to Fiji. I think, my wife, Caroline is looking forward to having me out of the house and her hair for a month. My ticket to Fiji is with Air New Zealand and I 'm going to take the opportunity to say that I'm not impressed with their do-it-yourself approach to short-haul travel. For small hops, Air New Zealand has adopted the Ryan Air model and it's cafeteria style, luggage, food, movie , all cost extra, or you can purchase the “works” when you book,. However, if you opt for the cheapest option and want to by a snack on-board, it must be purchased with a credit card. Ugh! Enough bitching about the Air NZ short flight business model.
I leave Auckland airport at 7.45am and arrive in Nadi (pronounced Nandi) at 10.45; immigration and customs is a breeze, even though I'm bringing in a few ever day household goods, like a 20 liter weed sprayer. I'm through, and immediately head to International Departures to catch a bus to Suva. It all falls
into place, I pay my FJD $16 for my ticket to Suva and the bus leaves almost immediately for Nadi town, then it's a change of buses to an “air conditioned coach” for the 3 ½ hour trip. The bus ride is excellent, the coach is indeed air conditioned, and I spend the time talking with several young travelers that are enjoying the laid back atmosphere of the Fiji Islands. I have not spent time in Fiji's capital, Suva, and have decided to spend 3 days while waiting for the boat to Savusavu. I'm booked into the Peninsula Hotel, which is a 10 minute walk from the city center, and after a shower I go in search of Indian food. I'm not disappointed with a restaurant called Maya Dhaba, however I later find there are no other Indian restaurants of equivalent quality. Chinese restaurants are over abundant which tells a tale of the close ties that the Fijian Government now has with China. Suva city, what can I say, downtown is filled with government buildings, some shopping opportunities, a museum, and as my good friend Robin Irwin says, best of all, a good cinema. Yes, I do go to the
cinema to escape the 30c heat and humidity, and see the “Avengers”, a fun movie filled with the many of Marvel Comics superheroes.
Friday, May 4, 2012 The boat of choice to the Northern Group in the Fiji Islands is the Lomaiviti Princess, Goundar Shipping, and it leaves Suva on a Tuesday and Friday evening around 6.00pm. It's a 12 hour boat journey to Savusavu, and I opt for the first class lounge in aeroplane seating for the princely sum of FJD $80, and added bonus, it's air conditioned. There's a cafeteria on board which serves your basic curries and such, all at reasonable prices. The journey to Savusavu is rough and a couple of people do get seasick. I chat with a very nice young couple from the UK who are heading to Taveuni and have been traveling for 8 months around Asia, Australia, New Zealand and then I make myself comfortable on the cabin floor and go to sleep. Before disembarking I invite the young people to stay for a few nights if they come to Savusavu. The boat docks on or around 6.00am on the Saturday morning and my very good friend Malcolm
Suva Bay
Chinese Fishing boat in background.Sanders is on the quayside to meet me.
The “Hidden Paradise” is a name dreamed up some time in the past thirty years as a marketing tool for Savusavu. The town, once a sleepy little copra town, on the southeastern side of Vanua levu (Big land) is now a major destination for yachties and is a port of entry into Fiji. The large bay is surrounded by lush green hills and offers a deep harbor and is referred to as a hurricane hole, however hurricanes are rampant in the Pacific, normally between January and April and they certainly do come through Savusavu. Having said that, there has been no major damage in my memory. The town of
Savusavu was originally established as a center for sailing ships trading in the sweet smelling sandelwood , beche-de-mer (dried sea cucumber), and copra trade. A copra mill still produces coconut oil at the very bottom end of Savusavu Bay
The town consists of a single main street, doted with hardware stores, supermarkets, appliance stores and major Australia/New Zealand banks. A busy local produce market is housed immediately next to the taxi stand, and outside stand a
pair of lions donated by Tony Robins, US motivational speaker, and personality that enjoys having his photo taken with a succession of US presidents. He has owned a five star resort called Namale for many years that is situated outside of Savusavu town.. Initially, the lions stood guard at the gates of Namale Resort, but were deemed out-of-place. So, Savusavu town council were gifted the lions. Out-of-place, we're in Fiji, not Africa!
Enough with descriptions of Savusavu and on with our journey. After a cup of tea in a local cafe, a catch-up on all the local gossip, Malcolm takes me to Vatuseta, our Fiji home, I shower and we head into town to buy some groceries.
Monday, May 7 Andrea, my caretaker, invites me the local village of Nukabalvu (the premier village in the area) for the lifting of a tabu,(pronounced tamboo). A very senior person in the village and head of a Matangali (extended family who share in land-ownershp) had died, and in deference to his status ,a tabu had been placed on the lagoon in front of the village. This basically means that no activities or fishing take place on
the lagoon for 100 days and nights. As there are three Matengali in Nukubalavu and surrounds, on lifting of the tabu (tamboo), one Matangali collects fish using a traditional fishing net of braided vines and vao leaves, one Matangali cooks, and the Matangali who's person passed away receive all humbly. The fish collected, and there is a mountain of them, including a couple of turtles, are shared between all who attended. Ceremonies and speeches ensue , followed by presentation of gifts to and from the bereaved family,all participants in the ceremonies are clothed in traditional tapa cloth. The giving and receiving of gifts are accompanied by elequent speeches. If I'd understood what was said, I could have added a lot more to this paragraph, however my Fijian extends only to bula (greeting), vanaka (thank-you) and a few more simple words like chilo (excuse me). I partook of the feast, rubbed my stomach and walked home.
Tuesday, May 8 It's a one year anniversary at the Decked Out Cafe, free beer and food. I haven't imbibed for about 6 weeks, so stay on diet coke and water. I'm there for the camaraderie, however after I leave at
around 7.00 pm, I hear that there are several punch-ups, including one of the owners and his wife. So much for camaraderie!!
Wednesday, May 9 The young people, Ellis and Mike, who I had met on the boat have come in to stay for a couple of days. Sisi makes them comfortable in the guest cottage. Malcolm appears to go for a constitutional walk, however this is not your average walk and is more like a grueling hike. Now I say hike, as our circuit goes from Vatuseta to the top of the big hill overlooking Savusavu, down to the airport and back to Vatuseta along the road (approx 7km). It's the humidity that's the killer, anyway at 3.30, we're off, and 1hr 40 min later we are back at the house. I swear I have lost another 1kg in sweat; this turns out to be the first and last “walk” of the trip.
Thursday, May 10 thru Saturday, May 12 The weather is very much an uncertainty, with lots of rain, and in-between the occasional nice day. It's fun having the two young Brits around the property and we spend many
an hour talking about traveling and of the places that they have visited on their sojourn. Unfortunately, it is soon coming to an end and they must return to the UK to find jobs. Even with University degrees they are not looking forward to long arduous process of finding work. Saturday morning sees them depart for alternate accomodation in town, as I have a family from Finland comingto stay in the main house. While the family is in residence in our main house I will seek refuge in the guest house (fern tree cottage).
The Finns arrive and it is much like a scene from an African movie as they appear with truckload of luggage and porters. For two adults (Yurgi and Riika) and 3 children they have 150kg of baggage and this includes their own cooking utensils, fold-up chairs and even an electric blender. Fiji has not been their only destination, so just how long have they been carting this stuff? And I know they spent time in Bali, Australia, New Zealand before Fiji and then, it is on to the USA before returning to Finland.
Saturday evening, there is a leaving event
at the yacht club for a woman that has been in Savusavu for the past 3 months. Coconut petanque on the yacht club lawn! I don't partake, but sit on the sidelines and enjoy the company of some yachties! Later in the evening there is a sing-song which most of us join in and my young friends from the UK buy dinner and drinks as a show of appreciation. A lovely young couple, I wish them all the best for their trip through the USA before returning home to Great Yarmouth, UK.
Sunday, May 13 through Sunday, May 20 Fortunately, there are two good days during the week, the rest of the time is rain and more rain. I feel for the Finns who have 3 small children, however part of their 150kg of luggage includes a suitcase full of toys.
My week consists of watching the first two seasons of the HBO series Deadwood and the occasional foray into town for a beer and some social intercourse. As far as maintenance on the houses, all major work was completed on my last trip, this time maintenance is limited to fixing water leaks
on faucets, and replacing floor boards in the caretakers cottage. However, with Andrea's help, there is some tree pruning on the two good days that the week provides. A large coconut tree hits the waterlogged ground, it's been a worry in high winds as it leaned across the guest cottage. Pruning seriously improves the sea view from both the main house and guest cottage.
On Saturday evening I am invited to dinner with my Indian friend, Mahesh and his wife Monica. A meal of boneless chicken curry with roti. Now, this is a rare treat as most Fijian Indian curries consist of a chicken that has been hacked to pieces with a meat cleaver. The bones are highly prized by the consumer, and the inevitable dog that is on-hand to clean-up any leftover scraps.
Sunday, it's raining again and I spend the day indoors watching video and reading, followed by a another meal with Hazmat. He's a fish buyer, supplier in Savusavu and I became friends with his whole family when Caroline and I chose to build a vacation home here in Savusavu. Hazmat's brother, is Taiyab, our builder. Whenever I am in Savusavu
town I am an honored guest of the Ali family. On this evening, I am dined on fried fish followed by a lobster curry, yes it's good, even though I feel that lobster curry is a waste of the lobster. I sit with the Ali family and extended family and partake of Kava and more to my liking, Fiji bitter.
Monday, May 21 through Wednesday, May 30 What can I say, the weather has been rainy, inter-spaced with the occasional good day. As I sit on the veranda writing this blog, the waves are crashing on the reef, the sea is rough, but the sun is shining. I'm not exactly looking forward to catching the boat to Suva. It's an adventure, and the boat is in excellent condition, unlike some that ply the islands around the Pacific, however it's a 12 hour boat ride and rough sea does not fill me with warm-fuzzy-feelings.
The Finns caught a plane to Nadi on Friday, they even managed to get rid of one whole suitcase of stuff and only left with 130kg worth of luggage. I am now the proud owner of 2 stainless
steel cooking pots, 2 camping chairs, and a blender, while Andrea (my caretaker) is the proud owner of a suitcase and some other stuff; it's all about sharing!!! I had been staying in the guest cottage, reading, watching videos and just hanging out because of the bad weather and only a small “SHOUT” from the main house. I enjoyed several meals with Riika and Yourgi (The Finns) and I must say that I enjoyed their company. I hope that the rest of their trip (7 weeks in the States) gives them better weather than they have had in Fiji.
During the week, I take the occasional trip into town to pick-up bits for the house and enjoy a beer and occasional banter at the Decked-Out-Cafe. The days seem to slide by, where has the last month gone, I ask myself?
On the Saturday, May 26, myself, Malcolm and Filo are invited to Dakau for a concert. Dakau Resort has found a niche and runs courses, this is the final day of a course that takes individuals and makes them into a choir. Many of the ladies have sung before, but not as a choir.
The result is really good and along with a local Fijian group the audience are well entertained. We don't stay at the resort for dinner, but drive back to Vatuseta for dinner on the veranda, this closes down at 1.15 after a fine meal and copious amounts of wine.
Back to the veranda at 1.00 on Sunday, Sisi, my house-girl has cooked for me and along with Tina and Samu her cousins we indulge in more food.
Sunday evening see's me out for a lovo at the Ali clan's eldest brother, Hanif. I have a number of bowls of kava,while the Indian boys enthusiastically play cards. It is definitely a cut-throat game of whatever, but the game is played by teams of two and involves taking tricks. Soon, I am beckoned for a meal of biryani and chicken topped by a killer chutney. The weight is piling back on!
Monday, May 27, it's a hang-out sort of day, the weather has started to come right, the sun is shining, the wind has dropped, all because I'm heading home. In the evening I have a bbq on the veranda for Andrea, Sisi,
Malcolm and Filo. Aged rump steak, sausages and salad accompanied with and washed down by several of my infamous rum smoothies.
Tuesday, depart day, Malcom comes around to wish me a bon-voyage and we end up having a couple of beers prior to my departure on the Lomaviti Princess. The boat is late, however my friend Taiyab lives close to the wharfe and I am able to visit for an hour or so. Of course I am again invited for dinner as this is pretty much the Fiji way. It feels as though the past week has been eat, eat, eat!
The boat trip is very pleasant, although we are running around 4hrs late. I manage to sleep well for the first part of the night, but the boat stops at Koro Island at 1.30am, and the sound of the anchor wakes me. After the Koro stop I find it a little dificult to get back to sleep as there is a large Fijian snoring on the other side of the first class lounge and it is loud! I do manage to get more shut-eye and wake at around 7am. Overall, it has been
a good boat ride, and the lounge only has about six of us sharing what is set-up for around 100 people.
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Jay Brara
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Great to hear!
Great reading your interesting travel blog after such a long gap. Keep them coming!