Through the heart of Viti Levu to Rakiraki


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November 12th 2008
Published: November 12th 2008
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Sunrise at the ferrySunrise at the ferrySunrise at the ferry

Waiting to leave Ovalau
Through the heart of Viti Levu to Rakiraki Monday 3rd November 2008

The alarm went off at 4.15 a.m. and we groped around in the semi-dark dressing and getting our gear together (by torchlight) because one of the guys from Rukuruku village was picking us up at 4.45 a.m. to take us down to the ferry in his truck; somewhat early because it is only a twenty minute ride and the ferry wasn’t due to leave until six but he had to get back by 5.30. The ferry didn’t get away until nearly seven and the bus that was supposed to be waiting the other side on the mainland wasn’t there and arrived forty minutes late so we didn’t get to Korovou until about 8.30 a.m. which didn’t matter because it was a beautiful morning and we are now totally used to enjoying ‘Fiji time’. We have been off the mainland, Viti Levu, for twelve days and although keen to explore what else Fiji has to offer, we were sad to leave Ovalau. As the ferry edged out into the straight we could see the tiny coral island of Leleuvia in the distance as well as Moturiki; such beautiful islands,
Loading the ferryLoading the ferryLoading the ferry

Not just people, trucks, cars and a bus, but a boat as well.
such wonderful people. Leleuvia, Moturiki and the lovely old capital Levuka are very special and unforgettable places.
Korovou is a small town on the Kings Road. There are two main roads on Viti Levu, the Queens Road, which runs from Lautoka in the west (just north of Nadi airport) around the south of the island to the capital, Suva and the Kings Road which runs from Suva up the east coast to Korovou and then cuts inland across the central highlands to Rakiraki in the north and then back around to Lautoka. The journey from Korovou to Rakiraki, about 100 kilometres, is probably the most adventurous ride we’ve ever experienced. It takes the traveller to the very heart of Viti Levu. The first half of the journey is on an unsealed gravel and sand road, only the last fifty kilometres are tarmac. In some places they are widening the road so the bus just steers around the tractors and lorries where men are laying the gravel. It is a narrow road that fords rivers and even a waterfall (on a concrete ledge just wide enough for the bus), crosses rivers on old narrow wooden bridges (with planks missing) and winds
Getting a busGetting a busGetting a bus

Korovou town
up and down the mountains. In places it is no more than a rough track and sometimes a tractor has to be called to pull the buses out of the mud. Luckily for us it was a lovely sunny day and we didn’t need a tractor. The road goes through small villages, skirts wide muddy rivers where Bilibili bamboo rafts are used to ferry produce down to the markets, plunges through rainforest and then eventually crosses the northern mountains to the sea. We have never enjoyed a journey so much in our lives. In retrospect it is still hard to believe that a sixty-seater bus can make such a journey (and does so daily); it is a journey most hard on the bum and back, with the old bus jolting and bumping along as it does, but a tonic to the soul. Three sensational hours for $7 (about 3 euros).
The driver dropped us right outside the Rakiraki Hotel, about three kilometres short of the town and the only place to stay in these parts apart from a few expensive tourist resorts further along the bay. The Rakiraki turned out to be a great choice, old colonial style hotel, opposite
Kings RoadKings RoadKings Road

More like a track in places!
the district Chief‘s house (the district of Ra of which Rakiraki is the main town) on the Kings Road. Lovely room in beautiful gardens and a good dahl soup and lamb curry for supper (the owners are Indian Fijian).
Tuesday 4th November 2008

Rakiraki is a lovely town and quite a prosperous one too. The province of Ra is the main farming district in Fiji, which is why the Chief’s house is so grand, and boasts three banks and we also managed to find an internet café to check on our email. We couldn’t send the blogs, however because the USB socket was knackered on the computer. We were quite relieved to find banks here because Korovou didn’t have one and we were running out of cash. Not many places take credit cards in Fiji despite what the travel books say, well maybe the expensive resorts do, but even the Royal in Levuka wanted cash and so did Bobo. So, 50 cents got us into town on the bus, we got cash, looked around the shops, had a drink and enjoyed the bustle of the town and its market place. We hunted for postcards to send home but
Kings RoadKings RoadKings Road

Widening the road so an obstacle course for the bus!
couldn’t find any anywhere. Rakiraki shops don’t bother with souvenirs and postcards; they sell pots, pans, food and other practical household essentials.
Wednesday 5th November 2008
This morning we packed our bags and made our way to the wharf to get a boat to the island of Nanana- I - Ra, just three kilometres off the coast. The sky was blue and cloudless, the water calm and we got here around midday, alighting onto a white sand beach. We have a gorgeous bungalow all to ourselves, set above the beach with sea views front and back. This is the perfect place for a few days of chilling. We found a little shop for provisions along the beach and are nicely settled in. This evening we sat on the terrace watching the most dramatic storm with lightning flashing all over the sky after sunset for about an hour. Our own special fireworks display for November 5th.
Friday 7th November 2008

Nanana-I-Ra is a beautiful island, dryer than the islands on the east coast so it isn’t as lush but hilly and wooded. It is also very windy which makes a pleasant change and because our bungalow is on
Wainibuka RiverWainibuka RiverWainibuka River

Along the Kings Road
a slight rise between two beaches, one facing east, the other west, it is always breezy and fresh. The sea is a brilliant azure blue in the channel between us and the next island and the sunsets are spectacular. The sunrise is probably pretty good too, but we haven’t woken early enough to see it yet! We’ve spent two days doing very little and loved it. Tomorrow we are off back to the mainland and plan to head to Lautoka on the west coast.

Sunday 9th November 2008
The journey to Lautoka was yet another rewarding experience. The travelling in Fiji is just as good as arriving at the very diverse and different destinations. Journeying along the north-east provided a startlingly different landscape to any seen previously; brown scrubby mountains so like the sierras in Spain, mile upon mile of sugar cane plantations and sweeping sea views across mangrove swamps and black sand bays. The tarmac road was a good one, unfortunately our driver thought his name was Lewis Hamilton and the bus was old and decrepit (torn seats, no door and a smashed windscreen). They don’t do MOTs in Fiji. Basically, if the engine starts, that’s all that
Ellington Wharf, RakirakiEllington Wharf, RakirakiEllington Wharf, Rakiraki

Waiting for the boat to Nanana-I-Ra
matters and the passengers can climb aboard and hang on. After two hours we reached Lautoka, a nice west-coast town with views across to the Yasawa islands. We’re staying here about a week, slowing the travelling pace down a bit, then a few days in Nadi Bay again before our next flight on 18th. So, sadly we have just nine more days to enjoy this wonderful country, however we have New Zealand to look forward to!


Additional photos below
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Rucksacks on BoardRucksacks on Board
Rucksacks on Board

Loaded up and ready to go
Nanana-I-RaNanana-I-Ra
Nanana-I-Ra

Landing stage, our bungalow on the right above the beach
Floral welcomeFloral welcome
Floral welcome

Flower arranegements all over the bungalow (8 of them - beautiful)
What a view!What a view!
What a view!

View from the bungalow
Nanana sunsetNanana sunset
Nanana sunset

Breathtaking!


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