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Whilst on the tour of New Zealand Sabrina had told me about the tour she was doing when back in Australia. Her tour was to take her from Sydney to Alice Springs. My next trip once back in Oz was at Leconfield Cattle Ranch, but once that had finished l had no fixed plans until late May so l booked myself onto the same tour and joined her in Cairns.
This meant leaving the Farm a day early so l could take the flight from Tamworth back to Sydney then the 3 hour flight into Cairns. I arrived about 10pm and quickly found myself somewhere to stay for the night before meeting my new tour at 7am the following morning.
Another Tour, Another Tour Leader and new friends On the dot, Luke from OzExposure arrived at the Hotel to picked myself and Rob from New Zealand up and took us to meet the rest of the group at the hostel in Cairns. Sabrina was there waiting for me and introduced me to the team. Some of the group were leaving this tour the next day and the rest would be continuing onto the end. My new
group on the 19 day tour from Cairns to Alice Springs was made up of 4 from the UK, Me, Ollie, Sabrina and Jess. Four Girls from Denmark, Sofie, Katja, Mona & Nanna. Lloyd from South Africa, Rob from New Zealand and our Guide Zuke from Australia.
Scuba Diving off the Great Barrier Reef, another of life’s dreams come true So what a first day! To go Scuba diving off the Great Barrier Reef in Cairns. We arrived at the harbour by about 9am and boarded our Catamaran ‘Passions of Paradise’ and left for the journey out towards the Reef. During this time Coffee and Cookies were available and we were all given the Safety talk about the boat and for first time Scuba Divers, a on board lesson. After the talk we were kitted out with wetsuits, flippers and snorkels. Myself, Jess, Sabrina and Ollie were in Scuba Diving group 3 so once of the shore of Michaelmas Cay we had time to go on the glass bottom boat to the shore and snorkel before scuba diving. During this 10 minute trip to the shore a few large Bat Fish appeared under the boat and
could clearly be seen, including the coral reef below.
Michaelmas Cay is one of the most important seabird breeding areas on the Great Barrier Reef. It is also a special part of the sea country for the aboriginal people.
The cay has been entirely formed by animals and plants. Reef rubble has accumulated in the lee of Michaelmas reek and finer sand, trapped behind the bank of rubble to form the Cay. Over time birds have dropped seeds and vegetation has stabilised the Cay.
During the summer time this Cay is home to around 20,000 pairs of breeding birds, mostly Sooty Terns, Common Noddies, Crested Terns and Lesser Crested Terns.
The Coral of many different colours and a world of life below us Once in the warm clear blue water around the Cay the world under the water was as colourful as the world l am used to above. Within a few metres of the white sand Cay the Coral Reef started to appear and with that the sea life that the coral supports. The coral was made up of many different colours of whites, yellows and orange with anemone sea cucumbers, giant clams
and large rocks covered in different life forms. The vast amount of sea life was including Anemone Fish, Banded Angelfish, Bat fish, Lagoon Rays and Green Sea Turtle was breath taking and the 45 minute we had before our Scuba Diving seems to go in a flash. So l made it back to the boat and took time to get ready for another adventure in the world below me. So after being kitted out in my Scuba Gear and in our group of four we took to the water with our Scuba Master and undertook the first part of our pre-Scuba Training. First was to get used to breathing under water and the signals used to ensure we were ok or needed assistance. Next we were lowered deeper into the sea below and once ready we followed the instructor on a tour around the coral and its beauty that it holds. The view from down here was a million time more impressive than what l saw snorkelling and a few time became quiet overwhelming. Once our introduction Dive was over we were given the chance to continue for a further 20 minutes which we all took up and our instructor
took us further and deeper through this amazing world of colour and difference from the world above.
The coral all around us was very fragile and the fan like coral was colourful and the detail was like the finest lattice work. Being in amongst the hundreds of marine life was like being in your own aquarium and l felt privilege to have the opportunity to have experienced this and its first disappearing world. The beautiful and very colourful fish was something that l will remember and the size of some of these fascinating creatures and the array of bright beautiful colours was remarkable.
Once our underwater tour was over it was time for the onboard buffet consisting of cold meats, salads and even Thai Green Curry. Once the diving was over it was time for a refreshing cold beer and make our way towards the next snorkelling sight. This area of coral was another 30 minutes away and was formed of large rocks, coral and a different area of sea life that differed from the area off Michaelmas Cay. The currents here were a lot stronger as it was in the middle of the ocean and l was
amazed yet again about the hundreds of marine life that found home around this colourful area of life.
Our journey back to the port in Cairns took over 2 hours and it was time to relax and get some sun bathing in before we got back. The cool air as we made our way back was refreshing and it also gave me time to chat to my new friends. Once back on land we had time to relax and get ready for a goodbye meal to the people leaving the next day.
The Kangaroo Burger that l opted for was great and in true Australian style was filling and worth the money, all washed down with a couple of beers before it was time to walk back to the hostel and continue with a couple more drinks before getting some much needed sleep before the tour really started in the morning.
Why is something so important allowed to disappear from our world Over the next few days it was about making ground towards some amazing natural wonders of the outback Australia. I took up the option to go with Sabrina, Mona and Lloyd to
get up early to take a drive to Kuranda and its rainforest.
Australia’s tropical rainforest are an area of exceptional natural beauty and are recognised as one of the most ecologically fascinating natural areas in the world. Dating back more than 20 million years, these are the oldest continually surviving tropical rainforests on earth. They were home to the dinosaurs as well as several of the world’s first flowering plant species.
These rainforests used to cover all of Australia. Today they occupy 900,000 hectares representing just 0.26% of the total land mass. Despite their small size, they are an area of great diversity and are a living museum protecting special plants and animals. Australia’s rainforests are home to over 2,800 vascular plant species, 380 of which are considered rare or threatened and about 700 are found nowhere else in the world. They are home also to the most primitive Kangaroo, the Musty Rat Kangaroo, two types of Tree Kangaroo and the biggest butterfly the Cairns Birdwing and Australia’s heaviest flightless bird, the Southern Cassowary.
We arrived in the small town of Kuranda in the Barron Gorge National Park on Anzac Day and as we parked a memorial
parade was in full swing. We spent about an hour looking around the market stalls that resembled Camden Market in London.
We then boarded the Skyrail that was to take us along the 7.5km route down to ground level. The cabin took us high above the rainforests and its rivers, lagoons and waterfalls below. We even had time to take to stops to look around the vast eco-system and Barron Falls. From above and on ground level you could see Basket Ferns, Golden Lawyer Cane, Red Penda Trees, Bird Nest Ferns and many more.
The Skyrail was completed in 1995 and to avoid disturbance to the rainforest the towers were fitted into place by helicopters. The tallest tower is 40.5 metres; the Red Peak Station is 1,788 above sea level. We were in one of 114 gondolas that travel up and down the rail each day.
It’s now time to see how big Australia really is! Once back in Cairns we picked up the rest of the group and left around 1pm and our first nights stop was Charter Towers some 480km away. During the drive the vastness of the county soon became apparent
and the ever changing landscape really showed me how beautiful nature can be.
We made the camp site just after sunset and it was time to learn how to put up our new home. My tent buddy was Rob and within minutes we had our tent up and there was enough space inside. Next duty was to unpack the cooking equipment and Luke got to work cooking our meal for the evening. The warm day soon cooled down and after an early shower it was time to bed down for the night as we had a 5am start the following morning. Sleeping for the first time in a tent since being a child was not too bad and as it was to be home for another 18 nights l hoped it would continue.
Up before the crack of dawn we packed up our tents and the trailer was ready to go for the huge 760km drive along the Flinders Highway further inland towards Mount Isa. On the way we made many roadhouse stops for fuel and lunch. This is where we started to encounter the ‘FLY’. Within minutes of steeping foot out of the bus hundreds of flies
would land on you, around your ears, nose and eyes and we quickly learnt that we had to get used to them whilst in the outback. Luke even told us that we were lucky as during the summer months they were even worse.
Mount Isa the largest city in the World! In relation to land size, rather than population We arrived in this city in the middle of nowhere before sunset and after unpacking and making camp for the night we drove to the lookout over Mount Isa to watch the sunset over this mining capital. My lasting impression of this city was of a vast pit with a few houses around the large mine that monopolised the area around it.
Mount Isa is a mining town, which mines for copper, lead, silver and zinc, and has got a nickname by locals as 'The Isa'. Today Mount Isa is one of the largest producers of both lead and silver, in the Western world.
Another early start as we made our way towards the more interesting parts of the tour. Today we had another 600km to cover and breakfast stop was a roadhouse
named Camooweal on the Barkly Highway. Camooweal is the last town before we crossed the Queensland and Northern Territory boarder. Whist having breakfast and Luke getting the tyre on the bus repaired due to a large nail piercing through it, we watched as a flock of Kites swarmed down over a guy outside his jeep eating a pie. In one go one of the birds grabbed his breakfast from his hand and was off. Other the next few minutes we watched a about 20 birds circled above and dropped down onto the highway in search for scraps.
Once refuelled ourselves and the bus we were off towards the Northern Territory and a change in the timeline, this took us back half an hour and into more barren landscape. With the land now changing into the famous red soil we finally stopped for lunch at the Barkly Homestead and Luke then refuelled once again before making a phone call to another petrol stop to ensure there was fuel to enable us to travel a different route along the Tableland Highway. Once he was sure we could do this part of the tour rather than driving up the Stuart Highway that
we would travel back down in a week we started to drive across the large flat land with cattle in really remote areas. This is also where we started to start seeing the famous Road Train trucks that dominate the Northern Territory roads. Our home for tonight was to be Bush camping and it was time to collect fire wood along the roads and then find a place for the night.
We finally found an area of land suitable to camp not far from the road side and got to work building our camp. It was the boys turn tonight to cook for the group and after making a hole in the group and the fire down to a hot coal we got to work making a beef stew in the iron pot. The flies once again returned in their droves. But as soon as the sun goes down they disappear giving us a reprieve. Not for long a it was then time for the mosquitoes to make their home all around us.
Whilst cooking our stew with beef, butternut squash, Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes we watched as a herd of cows came close to investigate what was going
on around them. It was not long before the beef stew and mashed potatoes was ready and we all tucked in. After most people had 2nd portions we cleaned up and sat around the camp fire before turning in for the night. The stars complete with the Milky Way and a bright moon above us made the bush camp on that l really enjoyed.
By next morning and with the flies returning again to attack us we packed up and leaving the bush land as we found it we pushed on towards Katherine Gorge some 643km away. By lunch time it was time to stop at the famous Daly Water where most travellers stop making their way towards Katherine. This small little town has a famous bush pub where people leave items of clothing including bras, underwear or any other odd items to decorate the walls of this roadhouse bar. Originally built in the 1930’s to service early Qantas passengers on a refuelling stop to Australia’s first international airport, the food here was great and after having our group picture taken by the manager of the bar that he posts on Facebook and a quick look at the store
opposite that makes great wooden name signs it was off again to the main town of Katherine to stock up on provision and experience at first hand the impact that the western way of life has had on the Aboriginal people.
Most of the areas within Australia are ‘No Alcohol’ in public places, as the impact that alcohol has among other reason has affected the oldest race on earth. In the carpark unpacking the shopping into the trailer we were approached by a few people for beer that we were packing away or cigarettes. Like being pack in India, Thailand and any other poor places it is hard to ignore these requests, but as l have learnt too once you start many more people arrive. So after about 10 minutes of the same guys asking they soon disappeared and we were on our way to the Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine Gorge).
The first people of the area were the Jawoyn and Dagomen people. The Katherine River was a foundation to their culture as it provided an abundance of food and water. The first Europeans to pass through this country was Ludwig Leichardt in 1844 but it was John
McDouall Stuart who on 4th July 1862 named the Katherine River after the second daughter of his patron James Chambers.
Today Katherine is the hub of the Katherine Region and welcomes around 300,000 people each year. The third largest town in the Northern Territory, Katherine is also the home to the first permanent running water encountered by travellers along the road north of Port Augusta. The town is often referred to as the ‘Crossroad of the North’ as the explorer’s Way and Savannah Way lead North, South, East and West from this point.
Happy 21st Birthday Mona and welcome to Skittle Vodka! On our way from our restock of provisions in Katherine to Nitmiluk National Park we started to make plans for Mona who turned 21. Our mission was to make different coloured vodka made from Skittles. So after separating the different colours we dropped in as many sweets into the bottles as we could. Within a couple of hours we then had a Yellow, Blue, Green and Orange.
We arrived at the Camp site and once set up and dinner BBQ was on its way it was time to start the birthday celebration.
With party hats, balloons hidden in Mona’s Tent we started with the Drinking games were a different coloured Vodka shot was the prize. Within a couple of hours and birthday cake finished off the vodka shots started to take it first victims (Yes that you Lloyd) and more fun was had especially with myself, Ollie and Jess who spent other an hour entertaining ourselves with a camera pulling silly faces, Ok it entertain us anyway.
With very sore heads the next morning we took the short walk to the Rivers edge for a Boat Cruise to see a couple of the 13 natural gorges that the river had formed in the sandstone other the past. The tour was a great way to experience the natural beauty of this area and during the river trip we took a small hike across the rocks from one boat to another and the wonderful colours of the sandstone gorges that the sun gave us as we sailed through the area was amazing.
After getting back to the campsite we had time for lunch and a much needed swim in the sites fantastic outdoor swimming pool complete with waterfall. Once pack up we
took another 340km drive towards Litchfield National Park.
Warm Hot Springs, Rock Pools and Cathedral Termite Mounds Litchfield National Park has a diverse environment including rugged sandstone escarpments, perennial spring-fed streams, monsoon rainforests, waterfalls and impressive termite mounds. During our drive through this landscape Luke took us to a rarely visited hot spring pool above a waterfall. The route took us through a densely vegetated area which involved us ducking under or climbing other untouched spider webs, up rugged rocks and finally above the waterfall. The area below this waterfall was out of bounds to the non-aboriginal people as this area was of special interest to the local people of this area.
We reached the hot spring and we were soon down to our swim wear and in the warm waters with the excess water flowing over the edge and about 70 metres down to the stream below. The pool in which we swim was deep and even a lizard was on the edge in the late morning shade.
We then arrived at the popular swimming spot of Buley Rockhole’s. These Rockhole’s flown down river through about 5 large areas where you could relax
with the warm water flowing other your shoulders and then move on to the next hole. A very relaxing afternoon with other groups of people enjoying this oasis in the middle of the National Park.
Our next swimming spot was the spectacular Florence Falls that cascade into a plunge pool set in a pocket of monsoon forest. We did make our way to see one of the most popular areas of Litchfield National Park the Wangi Falls however when we arrive it was closed to public swimming due to the danger of Crocodiles in the water and maintenance of the boardwalks to view the falls much closer.
Another spectacular visit we took was to see the huge termite mounds that seem to be only found in the National Park. During the several thousand kilometres that we took during this trip we saw countless termite mounds mainly made of the bright red sands and about a metre tall. However when you see the giant Cathedral Mounds that towered above us at around 12 feet high and the Magnetic Termite Mounds with their thin edges that point north-south to minimise their exposure to the sun that keeps the mounds cool for
the termites.
Back to everyday life in the city of Darwin The Northern Territory Capital provides all the comforts of a modern, cosmopolitan city, but with its tropical landscaping and warm climate retains a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Before we arrived at the hostel we stopped at a waterfront restaurant for a couple of sundowners and a meal of a great seafood platter complete with crab, king prawns and a mountain of juicy battered fish and chunky chips.
On the way to hostel we stopped at the famous Darwin night market and mingled amongst the thousands of visitors. We quickly discovered that tonight was a celebration night for the area as they welcome in the day season and this was the first night market since the rainy season. As the darkness drew in a few of us stopped and watched a fantastic show. Emdee is a guy playing the didgeridoo but to upbeat drums and at a much faster rate than the traditional players. At the end of his set the skies were filled with a great firework display and by the end of the evening the whole group was watching the guy perform once
again. A few of us even brought a few of the CD that he was selling and within minutes of climbing aboard the bus we were playing the tunes at full volume.
We arrived in the main high street of Darwin and this was also a welcome break from sleeping in our tents for two nights as we were booked into a great hostel complete with roof top pool, spa and bar. So not long after arriving a few of us were in the pool soaking up the late afternoon sun and relaxing. The following day was a free day to either relax or take in some of the sites that Darwin had to offer. So after the normal duties of laundry etc l took a walk around the area and once the afternoon sun was at its peak l made my way back to the hostel to join the others and enjoy the pool.
For our last evening in Darwin Luke took us to a restaurant a few minutes’ walk away from the hostel. My choice for this evening was Buffalo steak and the most amazing spicy wedges. The restaurant was a vibrant mix of young
and old with the great live music from a guy and his guitar, what made it different from most live restaurant singers was that he actually sounded like the artists and songs he was singing.
The following day we left the city behind to make us way towards Kakadu some 330Km away but not before stopping at an Aboriginal Art Store. A surprise was waiting for us when we got inside. The owner had rescued a baby Wallaby and we were soon holding him and having our pictures taken too. The guy even had a baby crocodile and an array of native Australian Snakes, all displayed amongst the art and Didgeridoos on sale.
Jumping Crocodiles, you’ve got to be kidding me! You’re pulling my leg right! How can you get a 6 metre crocodile to jump right next to a boat? Well that question was soon answered when we arrived on the Adelaide River Queen Boat tour. We stepped aboard the boat and was quickly told that at all times we most keep our arms and legs inside the boat and whilst the vessel is moving not to move from the top to the bottom
deck. These two amazing woman then took us up river and briefed us on the difference between Salt Water and Fresh Water Crocodiles. The ones that we would see today were ‘Salties’ , as freshwater crocodiles which are only found in Australia are harder to find as they are very shy than their more aggressive relations.
Saltwater crocodiles can live in both Saltwater (Sea)and freshwater (Rivers) and are the more dangerous of the two and even a few days before we arrived in Darwin l had read in the newspaper about a woman that had been attacked. Crocodile attacks are quiet frequent here was many people ignore the signs and still go swimming in rivers etc that crocodiles inhabit.
So not long after we set off the first crocodile was spotted and the boat was stopped as this massive reptile made its way towards us, then one of the woman lowered a piece of meat on the bone over the edge. Within seconds the crocodile was pushing its self out of the water to try and get his prize. By using its tall of pure muscle it can leave the water upright with just half its tall still
in the water. A few attempts later the meat was history and so was the crocodile as it soon disappeared under the water and out of sight. Not long after that a female was spotted and the feeding was repeated. The woman could tell us which crocodile was who as they reptiles especially the males have their own territory and their own females amongst it.
One the largest and oldest males were up next. We soon noticed that when he jumped from the water that both of his front legs and one of his back legs were missing. This is the result from fighting amongst the males for mating rights, and even though he was almost limbless he could still move out of the water and swim just as fast. In fact not long after he was fed we witnessed him chasing a rogue young male out of his domain. This two hour tour took us down river and we fed about 8 different crocodiles and on the way back it was time to feed some of the native birds to the riverside and we watched as Kites swarmed down to catch food being thrown up in the air.
Fantastic coloured Crested Pigeons, Crimson Rosella’s and Rainbow Lorikeets were spotted along the journey back to the jetty. After lunch we made our way to Kakadu Lodge about 3 hours away.
A living Cultural Landscape The Aboriginal people of Kakadu are known as Bininj / Mungguy. Bininj (pronounced bin-ing) is a kunmwinjku and gun-djeihmi word. Mungguy (pronounced Moong-gooy) is a Jawoyn word. Both are similar to the English word’Man’ and depending on the context can mean man, male, person or Aboriginal People. Balanda means non-Aboriginal people.
Language, ceremonies, kinship and caring for country are all aspects of cultural responsibility that have passed from one generation to the next, from the Creation time. Bininj ‘ Munngguy believe that during the Creation time ancestral beings, known as the first people journeyed across the landscape creating the features and landforms, plants, animals and the generations of its people. The lands and its people have always been linked.
Being amongst the oldest race on earth, original Rock Art and breathtaking views After making camp we took the short drive to one of the ranges of rocks in the area to see the famous Rock Art
that is displayed. Kakadu’s rock art represents one of the longest historical records of any group of people in the world. More than 5,000 art sites tell of the creation Ancestors and the changes in the landscape over thousands of years. The act of painting is generally more important than the painting itself do many older paintings are covered by younger ones.
Walking pass these painting and thinking back to caveman picture seen in history museums l could see why they are thought to be the oldest race on earth. We then took the rocky route up to a breathtaking view point of the plains of the area with floodplains and billabongs in the distance. As l looked around the area each area was different with rocky hills to my left, floodplains in front, grassy hill behind me and a view that reminded me of the bush in South Africa. In the distance we could see the rain clouds forming and a huge rainbow appeared right in front of us.
There were about 50 people now sitting in these rocks waiting for the sunset before us. The few clouds in from of the sun produced an array of
colours during the setting with deep red, purples and the brightest orange l have ever seen. Complete silence from everyone around me witnessed an amazing natural daily occurrence that felt like the first of its kind. This was topped off with the fact that the beauty around me as second to none. As the last of the sun disappeared over the horizon the park ranger informed us that with the heavy rains on their way it was time to make our way back down to the car park.
The only way to see this vast landscape is from above The following morning me and Rob took the option of seeing Kakadu from the air on a scenic flight across the Jabiru region. The light aircraft that took six passengers left the airfield and over some rugged terrain. During the 2 hour flight we could really get an idea of the huge area this National Park really was with is forests, floodplains, rivers, lakes and mountain ranges that made up the region around us.
I was lucky enough to be seated next to the pilot and got an idea what it must be like to fly these
planes myself. One of the passengers in front of Rob obviously was not enjoying the flight as within minutes was reaching for the sick bag and remained attached to it for the rest of the flight.
Woodlands make up nearly 80% of Kakadu. Appearing to consist mostly of eucalyptus and tall grasses, they seem lifeless at first glance. However, the woodlands support a greater variety of plants, animals than any other habitat in Kakadu. Monsoon forests occur in small, isolated patches. Fruit eating birds and flying foxes link the plants in isolated pockets by dispersing pollen and seeds as they move around. The hills and broken ridges lines in the south of Kakadu are the result of millions of years of erosion.
Kakadu’s wetlands, including floodplains, billabongs, rivers, coastal and estuarine areas, are recognised internationally as being significant for migratory birds.
Soon we arrived over one of the highlights of this flight. Jim Jim falls and the Twin Falls Gorge looked amazing from above as you could really see where all the water comes from to form these impressive waterfalls. Most of the day Jim Jim Falls is in shadow due to the angle that it is
cut into the rock and you can only really see the vastness of its size from above.
As the flight came to its end we saw the Gunwarrde Warrde rock that has special meaning to the people of this area. As we came into landing to our right was the Ranger Uranium Mine that dominate the area around it.
Make on land again and more great rock art and another birthday to celebrate We arrived back to the airfield and were met by the rest of the group and headed for the area of Nourlangie were we went on a small hike round the huge rocks to see some impressive rock art that told the story of the creation of the earth around the area. Some of these pictures even depicted the first white men in the area. As we moved to higher ground the views yet again become impressive as like the flight and l could point out a few of the areas to the others.
As we made our way down toward the flat plains again we stopped in a sheltered area that had been used in the past by the Aboriginal
People as areas to keep warm and cook, this area even had faint rock art still on the walls.
Tonight l had offered to cook a BBQ to celebrate Sabrina birthday so once back in camp and the hot coals were ready it was time to start cooking. Ribs, Steak, Sausages and corn on the cob were the order of the day and very soon the drink was following and the party began. Chocolate Birthday Cake soon followed.
Yellow River and the nature in plenty around us at sunrise Before we left the area of Kakadu we awoke before sunrise to board another boat, this time so see the wildlife that is supported by the floodplains of the area along the Yellow River. As we left the jetty and the sun started to rise you could feel and here to world around us awake too. Beautiful birds began their morning flights or swims of the day.
Masked Lapwins, Australian White Ibis and the Black-Necked Stock soon made their appearance and the boat stopped for us to sit and watch them go about their daily business. Salt water crocodiles live in these waters too and
it didn’t take long before we spotted a few along our journey. Wedge Tailed eagles were soon spotted along with the Sacred Kingfisher. We then came across a large patch of waterlillies that gave a bloom of colour with whites, pinks and light purples.
Edith falls was another stop to swim in the cool waters or just take time to relax before the 400km drive to one of the highlights to this tour.
I felt privileged to spent a day with the Aboriginal People of Mataranka We arrived at Mataranka the night before our culture day so we made ourselves at home and the group even settled down to watch ‘Woof Creek’.
The following morning we were greeted by John, who has leaved on this land all of his life and runs the Culture days after taken over from his brother. We were walked down to a seating area and we were about to be introduced to the rest of the Aboriginal team that assist John, when loud shouting came from over the other side of the land. John and his team then started shouting back to the guys up in the hills. As
we all looked around we then was made aware by shouting from the woman sitting near us that a wild buffalo was running towards us, so just like l had been taught in South Africa when l was at Campfire Safaris that when a buffalo come charging towards you is to run up the nearest tree. So like the woman too were shouting at the group the next thing we were doing was moving towards the tree in the middle of the area and as we looked behind us, the buffalo had turned direction. We made our way back again and just as john was about to continue with his welcome when we again noticed that the buffalo was on its way back towards us again.
This time the buffalo headed away from us and with rounds of laughter from everyone, John was able to continue with the plan for the day. Our first part of the day was for John to take us on a hike through the wood lands and hills that formed part of the area. Step by Step John explained to us uses of plants and trees in the culture of the Aboriginal people. He explained
that a certain bushes leaves can be burnt and the smoke will ward of mosquitoes, a root from one of the plants here is used as paint in Aboriginal paintings and many other great facts that have been passed down the generation and are still used today.
We got back to the seating area and John then gave us a Didgeridoo lesson and then it was time to sit down and watch John paint a traditional painting of a crocodile using round rock, charcoal and chalk that is found around the area. After he had finished we all got the chance to put our artistic flair to the test. I did a picture of a snake and the group produce many other items from flowers, kangaroos and even turtles.
We then sat down to a lunch that had been produce for us with Kangaroo tail, steak, sausage and salad. They had even made damper bread which tasted a bit like ciabatta bread. The Kangaroo tail was not bad, if not a little fatter, but was another great food that l have managed to taste since starting my travels.
Next up was a round of spear throwing using
a spear and a flat piece of wood that is attached to the spear and helps make the spear go much further. I managed to get the spear to go quiet far and enjoyed the chance to repeat the even once more.
We then sat down with the woman of the area who showed us how to weave baskets; this was after we got the chance to split the leaves that the weaving material came from. They explained how the dried leaves were dyed using the natural elements found.
I can say without exception that the whole group enjoyed the chance to spend time with the People of Mataranka and after having our group picture with these welcoming people it was time to make our way towards the Devils Marbles.
Another of Natures truly remarkable beauties After another long day of driving the 680km towards the Devils Marbles we finally arrived with these fantastic rock formations gleaming in the afternoon sun. We spent a good hour walking around these red rocks and took some amazing group pictures and some of the natural beauty all around them.
Scattered across a wide and shallow valley, these
massive boulders of granite are an impressive site. The boulders precariously balance on top of one another in a seemingly impossible arrangement. Surrounded by these enormous sacred boulders, you sense the peace and tranquillity of the outback in this serene and special place. Even the locals who drive by on a regular basis still call in for the deep sense of ancient spirit pervading this tranquil area.
We then made our way to another set of Marbles that are situated next to a camp site. Our plan tonight was after cooking our evening meal was to climb up these rock formations and sleep under the stars for the night. So with dinner out of the way and the area cleared up we all grabbed our sleeping bags and mats, along with a few drinks and climbed up to watch the sunset and camp out for the night.
Sitting on top of these huge rocks and watching their colour change through different shades of reds and gold’s as the sun set around as was truly amazing once again. Pillow fights on the rock is l am sure something that has never happened on these rocks and it didn’t take too
long before the girls were involved in a full on pillow fight. After the fun had settled down it was time to relax and take in the area around us, it didn’t take long before we camped down for the night of the Devils Marbles for an experience l sure hope l don’t forget.
UFO’s and Hiking and our way towards Alice Springs On our way again towards Alice Springs we stopped at another roadhouse to refuel and freshen up. This roadhouse and the area around it are famous for the apparent UFO sightings. Inside the Roadhouse are hundreds of newspaper clippings from the area and some from around the world. The fun Alien models outside is a real crowd puller and people were all around us taking pictures too. Another 530km and a forever changing bush landscape as we made our way to the MacDonnell Ranges. During this long drive we stopped at the Aileron Roadhouse to see the ‘Big Man’ who stands on top of the hill behind the roadhouse. To the side is also the ‘Big Woman and Child’.
It didn’t take long before we came across another photo stop, this time
we were crossing the Tropic of Capricorn, so another picture for the photo album and we were off into Alice Springs to collect supplies before we headed to the MacDonnell Ranges.
We arrived at these ranges late after a mishap with a kerb and the front tyre, but well done to Luke for the quick change and we soon made it to the camp site. When we arrived we found a great new shelter and instead of making up our tents we opted to just sleeping under the shelter with our sleeping bags and mats.
Not bad a night’s sleep, but as we travel further away from Darwin and their tropical temperatures, the nights are certainly much colder and several layers of clothes including socks were needed. We then on foot made our way on the 3 hour hike through the MacDonnell Ranges and like some of the red rock canyons and mountains we have seen on this epic tour did not disappoint. The first part of this hike was a little hard going as we walked up the side of the range with its small rocks that slipped below your feet as you walked over them. As
we got over the first range and up onto a ledge it was time for the early morning picture and rest before we made our way down the other side and across the large open flatland below.
As we passed the flatlands and across a large rocky dry river bed it was time to walk through a large dry gorge of bright red rocks that towered either side of us as we jumped from large rock to rock making our way to the small watering hole at the other end. As we approached this watering hole we took a small de-tour to climb up to the viewing area above us called the ‘Ghost Gum’. From this high lookout we could clearly see the vastness of the area and the great array of colours another area of Australia’s outback had to offer.
Alice Springs was our next stop for the evening and a much needed evening out for the group. So showers and a dress up especially for the girls and we made our way in a fleet of taxi’s into Alice Springs hottest hangout.
Our table was booked and the Monkey Nut Coffin by the bar was full
Inside this great Restaurant was filled with memorabilia of Australia’s outback past, a coffin filled with Monkey nuts for people to help them self and throw the empty shells on the floor. A huge glass box with a skeleton on a Harley Davidson took pride of place at the end of the Restaurant. On closer look in this cabinet it was home to a very big python.
A few of us opted for the Outback Platter that consisted of Kangaroo Steak, Buffalo Steak, Emu Sausage, Ostrich skewers and Crocodile Rissoles all served with salad and Mashed Sweet Potato and tasted fantastic. As the evening went one the crowd got bigger and around the restaurant we TV screen showing you the webcams that were recording around the restaurant. This was also being streamed live on the internet and the DJ was broadcasting on the radio to the whole of Alice Springs.
We left the Restaurant around midnight and made our way back to the Big4 Caravan Park.
Dinky the Singing Dingo on our way to Kings Canyon Yes the title is correct, the Singing Dingo. Another Roadhouse stop on our way along
the 480km drive to Kings Canyon took us to see the Famous Dinky the Singing Dingo. Martin Clunes apparently did a series last year about the relationship people have with their dogs and ‘Dinky’ appeared on this programme. He is also a question in the 20th Anniversary Edition of Trivial Pursuit. Dinky is a 8 year old Dinky that is now a house pet and when his owner plays the piano Dinky gets up onto the keys and then starts singer, Ok l say singing it’s more like howling but it was a real treat to watch and did bring a smile to everyone face as they watched this Dingo perform to its awaiting crowd.
Kings Canyon is a jewel in the crown that l did not expect as when you say Alice Springs you automatically think Ayers Rock. So we arrived and before we started the walk Luke made sure we had enough water and were prepared for the first part of the climb up the side of the canyon. The first stage of the climb was the steep stairs that were cut into the side. After stopping at least 3 times on the way up these stairs
it was time to walk along the flat surface of the roof of the canyon and take in the impressive views this canyon had to offer. Looking across from one side to another you could see where a whole ledge of the rock had fallen off deep into the canyon below. At every turn and climb there was another great picture to be taken. The sunset soon appeared with the full moon behind us. The blaze of colour from the sunset mixed with the streams of clouds in front made the sky look like is was on fire.
After the sun had gone the walk back down to ground level was lit by the brightness of the full moon above me and soon we were back at the campsite for a much needed shower and rest before dinner.
The Red Rock and the highlight of the Tour. As with many of the world’s great natural icons, when you get there it can take you by surprise about how big or small they actually are, with Uluru as it is now formally called from the original Aboriginal name or Ayers Rock as it was previously called
look bigger and more spectacular than l had seen on countless TV programmes or books.
The traditional owners of Uluru - Kata Tjuta National Park, are the Yankunytjatjara and Pitjantjara people. They speak their own language and teach this to their children. The land is now Uluru and was created by the Tijukuritja (creation ancestors). In their travels they left marks in the land and made laws for them to keep and live by. The land around Uluru has always been a special place. This is now recognised by their listing as a World Heritage area for both their culture and national values.
Please don’t climb Uluru That’s a really important sacred thing that you are climbing - You shouldn’t climb. It’s not the real thing about this place. The real thing is listening to everything. The Traditional Owners
What visitors call the ‘climb’ is the traditional route taken by ancestral Mala men upon their arrival at Uluru. The climb is not prohibited, but it has great spiritual significance for the Aboriginal people and as guests on Anangu land, they ask us the respect their laws by not climbing Uluru.
The climb
can be dangerous and 35 people have died while attempting to climb Uluru. Many other visitors have been injured too.
Sunset and Sunrise at this great Australian Icon We arrive at the Ayers Rock Resort which is more like a hidden paradise in the rough outback, purpose build tourist area with Mid-Range to Top End Hotels, Restaurants to meet every taste and pocket. The Camp site within this area is the only one in the area and very well equipped. So once our camp was set for the evening’s return we left for the highlight - Sunset at the Rock.
We arrived at the Sunset Viewing platform with at least a hundred other vehicles ready and waiting for this daily event. So parked up and the picnic tables and chairs at the ready we were served by Luke some Queen Adelaide Sparkling Wine to Toast the Sunrise along with a cheeseboard and some other tasty snacks.
The ever changing colour of this huge rock appeared before our eyes and all around us people had their cameras at the ready taking pictures as the colours moved from bright reds, Gold and a dark purple as
the sun lowered towards the horizon.
I remember the first time l saw the Taj Mahal, The Golden Palace in Thailand, Halong Bay in Vietnam Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge. These wonders are called wonders for a reason and Uluru at Sunset truly is amongst these greats.
So having a second chance to see this marvel we all took up the opportunity to awake before sunrise and take the drive back into the National park and stop this time at the Sunrise viewing platform on the other side. With the bright semi full moon directly above the rock with its brighting colours of red increasing as the sun came closer to welcome the new day. The chilly air soon warmed as every second passed and the rock came back to life with its surface grabbing the rays of the sun.
Once the sun was up in the morning sky we took the short drive to a car port not far from this platform. This was the start of the 9.4km base walk. This walk reveals the natural beauty and rich culture of Uluru. As you follow the footsteps of the ancestral beings that shaped the
landscape. Myself and Ollie spent chatted along the route and as you passed cracks, ledges and holes in the rock you really start to see why this place has such special meaning to the Aboriginal People. Some of these areas are sacred under traditional men’s law, and other under traditional woman’s law. Viewing or entering these areas is forbidden unless properly authorised by senior men or woman. Knowledge of these areas is also restricted. This has been a custom for tens of thousands of years. At various parts long the route tourists are routed off the base of the rock and asked not to take pictures as these are of importance to these people. Not long after 9am we both made it to the meeting place for the group and we then spent a while in the Cultural Centre.
That evening and our last night sleeping in our tents we cooked a large 5kg sirloin steak on the BBQ along with Corn on the Cob and jacket potatoes cooked in the hot coals, washed down with a few beers, it was then time to rest before the early morning start to clean away all the equipment and make the
drive back to Alice Springs and prepared for the farewells to another great group of new friends.
Over that pass 19 days we have crossed two states, moved from one side of the Tropic of Capricorn to another, driven 10,348km and seen the Australian outback change its colours and vegetation, changes in the wildlife that it supports. Walked many kilometres to see great natural wonders and eaten some pretty amazing tucker.
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Tess
non-member comment
It really shows how big the place is
Its nice reading your blog, especially as I did so many similar things. But doesnt all the driving in the outback really show how large australia is?!