Gascoyne Junction to Geraldton

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In response to requests for a photo / information regarding my walking stick I don't need any gifts of hiker's sticks because I have already asked my friend Chris who does wood carving to make me one with a pussy cat on the top. I want one the height of our rough hewn one illustrated because when climbing up steep rocks paths they offer the best stability. This works very well for me it increases my confidence and means that we can continue to explore at this stage and hopefully for a long time.

We discovered that the development of the tourist facilities at Gascoyne Junction cost $10.5 million. All from the Royalties for the Regions program. There are many aspects to this program including the $550 fuel card rural pensioners get each year. We read on a notice at the fuel station that a charity rally was arriving the next day, so we left early before they arrived. We suspect that these are the same cars expected at Mt Augustus.

Our first stop south was at Bilung Pool where we wanted to take photos. As we pulled up a car followed us in - yes the first of the rally cars arriving for their morning tea break. In about 5 minutes there were eight other cars and the catering van in the parking area. We took our photos and headed out again. Once more the pool was very low because of the drought conditions. It was lovely as it was, what must it be like when there is plenty of water...

Every now and then we passed rally cars going the other way. There was Superman, Batman, a fire engine, an Eagles car, model T - about thirty cars in all. We pulled up when we saw 5 cars on the side of the road, 4 observers and one poor fellow under his American type truck trying to fix it. We paid a $5 fine to Camp Quality - a kids cancer charity. The drought is very severe over most of the area we have been in for the past three weeks. Lots of dust and the vegetation looks very stressed.

The next place we came across is Murchison Settlement, the headquarters of the Murchison Shire. Only 15 people live here, 4 less than Sandstone. We stopped in and managed to purchase some salads some of which came fresh from the owners garden. GMan got some fuel as well which was 8c cheaper than in Gasgoyne Junction!

We overnighted at 9 mile well about 50 kms south and were the only people present that evening. The actual well had been restored and the outline of the stock yard marked with branches. It was a nice peaceful night our first by ourselves for ages.

Next morning we continued south then suddenly about 20 kms from Mullewa the country changed. It became greener and more lush. Next thing we were passing cropping country with healthy looking wheat crops growing on both sides of the road.

We parked in the information area and wandered down the main street. Mullewa is another rural town which is showing signs of dying, closed shops, neglect and limited services. We checked out what there was to see in the town and headed off to visit Our Lady of Mt Carmel Church and Priest house, another of Monseignor Hawes' churches. We got there and were hustled into a tour which was just commencing in the actual church. It is a lovely place, well cared for and loved. The lady conducting the tour was obviously a devout catholic and devotee of Hawes. After 30 minutes of being lectured to and directed precisely when to take photographs we opted out and headed for the Priest house museum only to be told that we were not allowed to enter it unless we were part of a tour because there was too much for us to look at and understand! It was like being back in catholic school "though shalt not..." We headed off much to the shock of the tour guide.

We had decided to stay in the Coalseam Conservation Park further south, but on the way visited some isolated graves. Butterabby Graves is a site of conflict where local indigenous people attempted to resist pastoralist expansion over limited food and water resources. The site has the grave of James Rudd who was killed by 5 aboriginal men who were subsequently hanged for the spearing of another man Thomas Bott.

Heading south the crops just kept getting better including canola in full bloom. The Coalseam Conservation Park is surrounded by farming land. We had to head down a slope into a deep river bed surrounded by high cliffs and to the Miners camp site. All the way in and around the camp site there were massed displays of everlastings. Amazingly outside the park the dominant colour is white and inside the park it is yellow and pink.

After we had set up camp in our wildflower haven a woman approach GMan and asked him whether the "game keeper had told him where to do the walk to see the wildflowers" duh. Next to us again were Ian and Pat in their Desert Sky Warrior.

Next day we headed off sightseeing. We walked to the opening of the coal mine. It was sunk in 1917 but didn't last very long because the seam was not commercially viable only between 7 cms and 15 cms wide. We went to the riverbend day use area, looking for fossils and up to the lookout. Everything was dominated by wildflowers. We found no fossils and eventually when we read the blurb discovered they were microscopic, no wonder.

Chris was looking for a specific flower the climbing fringe lily shown in photo 11, the only specimen we discovered. It was gorgeous. We didn't find the white dragon tree in the Pilbara either.

For the past week we have been having issues with our deep cycle batteries not holding charge. They are only 2.5 years old, but are just not managing well. Rather than try all sorts of patches we decided to go into Geraldton to replace them and go down the coast road to Perth. We can return north and do the towns we missed after we leave Perth.

We went into the first CP we found in Geraldton at Tarcoola Beach. Not exactly the plushest but we have our own ensuite despite it being aged and in need of refurbishment all for $40 per night. Most of the vans here are permanents.

Firstly all the stuff from under the bed had to be removed and stored in the ensuite. GMan inspected our current batteries and we took a photograph to assist at the store. We found a battery retailer and headed out and purchased two new deep cycle batteries, a hydraulic crimper and new tags. We then found a BCF where Chris bought some good walking shoes on special for half price, (GMan wants to go back and get some for himself) AND a new set of caravan steps. We couldn't get the same type but managed to get a good strong pair of plastic one. We hardly know ourselves.

It took ages to get the old batteries out. The batteries had no handles, are under the back of the bed in a very limited space with no maneuvering room. The opening to the area is not as wide as the two batteries, so they have to be lifted out of their cradles, pushed sideways then angled upwards to be lifted out. GMan made handles with my washing line and eventually managed to get them out. They each weigh 66 lbs and lifting them when you are seated on the floor under a bed was a dreadful job. We were able to take them back to the battery place and get them recycled for nothing which was a bonus. Another bonus is that we have gained an extra 10 amp hours with the new batteries.

Then he had to get the new ones into place (they at least had handles) and new tags crimped on and connected. The big moment. It worked. We charged them up completely then turned all the electricity off and went 36 hours without 240v assistance. Everything worked like a charm which was especially good as we watched 5 hours of football and used all the lights which we normally do not do. The batteries never went below 12.8 (12.6 is fully charged) so problem solved. We would rather replace now than get caught out in the middle of nowhere with no power to sustain our fridge.

Sunday morning we went to the markets at the old railway station, fabulous fruit and veges for sale, lots of preserves and craft things. Wish we hadn't shopped at the supermarket. I just got some things for the granddaughters. Off to the lookout on Pindar's hill and to Chez Perham at 13 Elizabeth Street. It could have been worse. Fence and Dad's shed are gone but the house looks solid but a horrid colour. For those who do not know this is the house Mum and Dad built themselves nail by nail. The story goes, I was still in a pram and after finishing the days housework Mum would wheel me to the site and put me in a large wooden crate to amuse myself and start work at what needed doing. The rest of the siblings would come after school and Dad after work and build until dark then we would all go home. Every pay day they would buy what building materials they could afford to complete the next part of the build. Imagine any of the current generation doing that!

We have just had our afternoon cup of tea and when we hauled out chocolate digestive's out of the cupboard the chocolate had melted it is so warm! At night we lie in bed and listen to the sound of the waves crashing onto the shore at Tarcoola beach 200 metres away. Haven't heard the sound of the sea for ages.

Monday morning Chris rushed off for a haircut, incredibly overdue. We then went to get fish and chips for lunch and ended up down on the waterfront where we got real F&C in paper, big hunks of fish and really hot crisp chips. Great Meal.

On display close to the chippie was a yellow submarine, yes a real yellow one. Apparently it was commissioned by the Kallis Brothers Fisheries as part of a project to determine whether it would be possible to start a commercial fishery of the big green cray (lobster to the US connections) further north. There were problems with the sub and it was never actually used. Bet they got an excellent tax deduction that year for their R&D efforts.

We then decided to do some sight seeing and headed out to Chapman Valley. First thing we came across was the Lavender Valley Farm, closed. Hmmmm maybe Monday was a bad day. Not far down the road we saw a sign for Our Lady of Fatima Church, another Monseignor Hawes church. It was closed up but we were able to peer through windows and wander around the outside.

Next we headed towards the Chapman Valley wines. Closed, definitely an issue coming on a Monday. We continued towards Nabawa, I wanted to go there because Dad used to go there to work. We did not turn off the road, but ended up back at North West Highway to the west not Nabawa in the east. It is a mystery.

Back to Geraldton where we visited St Francis Xavier Cathedral, Hawes again. It is as magnificent as I remember. There is currently a fund raising drive to undertake renovations $3 million needed, they have $2 million so far.

Next we went to the HMAS Sydney memorial. It is beautiful, an absolute credit to everyone involved with putting it together. The dome pictured consists of 645 connected seagulls representing the 645 people who died on the Sydney. It was erected in 2001 and at this stage no mention has been made of the discovery of the actual wreck which has happened since then. There is also an amazing sculpture of the "waiting woman" but the battery on my camera ran out, so sorry no photo.

Tomorrow we head towards Perth. We will stay overnight in a free stay and then go into the Burns Beach caravan park from 13th. Lots to do in Perth, catching up with family and friends.

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Comments

[Silver Kestrel 2]

Hello, your back again
Great looking stick, even has bends in it. Good Job GMan. Shoes look good too. The interior of St. Franks is still STRIPED. That Cathederal still haunts me. I was always under punishment because of it from them NUNS. They kept giving us ESSAYS on IT for homework. Not populat subject in my opinion, so I always presented a comical insight into its presence on the property. I thought I was writing pretty well & always deserved the big A. Never, only hostile criticism for suggestions eg renaming - St Franks, repainting the interior orange stripes & other unmentionable writings. Not a 100 lines for me but 1400 ???? Why 1400...... Where did Mother Michael dig that up from. Enjoy your New Norcia visit en route to Perth.