Windjana to Mitchell Falls

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19th - 25th June Windjana Gorge to Mitchell Plateau

Left Derby on the sealed road then onto the Gibb River Road with it’s reputation for being rough and badly corrugated. We were pleasantly surprised as the was excellent as dirt roads go. It had been graded and we could travel comfortably at around 80km/hr. The road after the turnoff to Windjana Gorge was not quite so good with more corrugations, but still reasonable.

The limestone rocks forming Windjana Gorge rise from a huge flat plain with sheer cliffs often rising straight up into the air.

Turned into the camping area. This was quite a good area for a National Park. Flat camp sites still with some grass, trees and even solar hot showers. (Just make sure you don’t wait ‘til too late in the day or the hot water will be used up, or too early for that matter before the sun has had a chance to warm the water.) The facilities were in very good order.

Tunnel Creek

Tunnel creek is 24km south of Windjana Gorge. It is also worn through limestone, the creek having worked it’s way down through the rocky range to form the tunnel. At the entrance are some very large boulders which have to be climbed and scrambled over to enter the cave. Once past these though the going is much easier, mostly through sandbars but some wading is required. For those that know the way this is less than knee deep. However for the rest of us finding the right route through the water was not quite so simple. We sent Gordon in front, even so I still managed to get wet to the waist. Being such a hot day it wasn’t an issue.

Halfway through the cave is a rock fall which allows light into the cave. You can see old stalagtites hanging from the roof. There are 4 species of bats in the cave, they are quite noisy and very smelly. One always knows when there are bats around even if you can’t see them.

After walking the 700 metres, the length of the cave you come out into a rocky area with the creek that runs through the cave forming a swimming hole. After scrambling over some more rocks, and watching for the ones under the water the swimming hole develops a sandy bottom and is quite deep in places.

Gordon and I had a swim, and I would have to say the water is certainly bracing! Considering it was quite warm walking through the cave the swim was most welcome.

During the wet the water must be gushing through the cave, maybe even filling with water. Definitely a dry season activity.

It was in the tunnel creek area that the outlaw aborigine, Pigeon, hid from the authorities for several years before being shot not far from the cave. (See below)

Lillimilura Police Station Ruins - Pigeon was an aboriginal tracker who became a trusted member of the police force. He learnt to shoot and became a crack shot and with his skills with spears and his tracking ability was relied on heavily by the police. He became a very good friend of one of the white policemen and they worked together for a number of years. Eventually a number of tribe were captured and held at the Lillimilura police station. They pleaded with him to come back to them and set them free. One night he shot and killed his good friend, the white policeman and released the prisoners.

He then became an outlaw for approximately 3 years before being tracked by another black tracker to the area around tunnel creek which he had been using as a hideout.

Windjana Gorge

Next morning we set off for the walk through Windjana Gorge.

The entry to the walk is through a small cave then you walk out into the gorge. A short walk to an open area with sheer cliffs and the river winding through the floor of the gorge between white sand banks and vegetation near the cliffs. In the early morning light the scene comes to life with the eyes of the occasional fresh water crocodile sitting still and silent in the water.

The early part of the walk is stunning with the colour of the cliffs and the river running through. In retrospect you have seen the best of it in the first 50 metres or so.

The walk is around the edge of the river and down a track closer to the cliffs. Although a relatively easy walk, once you leave the more open area with the sandbanks the trees and bushes block much of the view. Lyle walked to the end of track, which stopped abruptly with a sign saying it was the end of the track and still no view. Gordon and I stopped a couple of hundred metres short after everyone coming back told us there was nothing further to see. Even the near cliff face was blocked. By this time the temperature was rising so we turned around and walked back. After returning about halfway along the track the occasional break in the foliage allowed us to see freshwater crocs sunning themselves on the sandbanks.

Back on the road

As we had finished the walk quite early and there wasn’t any other walks there we packed up and headed north then east along the Gibb River Road.

Stopped for lunch at March Fly Glen, which doesn’t sound like a particularly desirable place to stop, but it was beautiful with lots of trees and water lilies along the creek. It would be a good place to camp, if only briefly as it is really just a picnic spot. The good thing - no march flies!

The road from here takes you through the King Leopold Range. There were some beautiful views but very few places to stop. They had a couple of stopping spots that were considered ‘scenic’ but I think it was more a case of ‘there’s room to put a pull off place here’ as the view was far from the best, and there was little room with other people stopped we gave it a miss.

A small aboriginal community called Imintji had a coffee shop and camping if it was pre booked.

On the way we had a flat tyre. Lyle and Gordon put on the spare, the whole thing took about 45 minutes to change. Now we will need to get the tyre fixed.

Mt Barnett Roadhouse - We decided to head on to Mt Barnett Roadhouse which in our book showed camping. We arrived about 4.30pm. The camping is actually at Manning Gorge 7km away although you pay at the Roadhouse. Any thought of dinner at the roadhouse dissipated as we walked in to find a couple of lukewarm dried out looking pies, a chiko roll and something else we failed to identify. The shop did have a range of grocery items. We bought petrol, paid the park fee and went down to the camping area. It was packed, and by now the light was beginning to fade. Vehicles of every description, in every nook and cranny. We found a spot, not far from the generator but quite close to other campers and within a reasonable walking distance of the facilities. The facilities for the camp consisted of 3 toilets and 3 showers for the women and the same for the men. The showers only had cold water. The water wasn’t drinkable.

Set up a basic camp just the stretchers, mosquito nets, table and chairs. Bill at a nearby camp offered us the use of his fire, which we gratefully accepted. By now it was dark and not much lighting around. Bill’s wife gave us half a plum pudding and some cream for dessert, very nice.

Drysdale Station - I avoided the cold shower, and we had no enthusiasm for seeing Manning Gorge as it was a 3 hour return walk and we wanted to get to Drysdale Station on the way to Mitchell Falls. As the Kalumburu road is reputed to be very corrugated and in poor condition we thought we would need plenty of time to get there. As it turned out, although the road was rough, we still managed to get to Drysdale station in time for lunch.

I have no idea how Drysdale came by it’s name, but it was appropriate. It is a very dry area, although they do keep the area around the coffee shop and the booking office watered so there is grass. There were 6 powered sites altogether, we took one so that I could charge everything up. Camera batteries and laptop particularly. The biggest problem was that the power for all 6 spots came from the one pole, out in the middle in the sun. This made charging and using the laptop a problem as not only was it in the sun but the whole area was dusty and every time a car went past more dust was raised.

Lyle went to see about the tyre repair. The tyre was ruined so we had to buy a new one. There were some tyres coming in on a truck in the afternoon which thankfully did arrive, as we couldn’t have left without the extra spare. Places like Drysdale which are in isolated areas (although seeing the number of vehicles going through it doesn’t seem that isolated) have workshops, mechanics, spare tyres of various sizes an array of equipment. They are called on to help with rescues, organize recovery vehicles when someone crashes or breaks down. They certainly have a lot of expenses and time taken up, often by people having accidents because they are driving too fast or without enough care. Drysdale has signs up telling people to drive more slowly and drive to the conditions. There seems to be a lot of people that don’t take that advice.

The showers and toilets here are very well set up. They are like an ensuite with shower, basin and toilet, with just a couple of extra single toilets. It worked very well, at least you can keep all your clothes dry easily.

We booked into dinner which was $29 for the main course. It was set up like a smorgasbord but the staff served you. There was curried sausages, apricot chicken and lamb shanks and a few different vegetables and rice. It was a very basic meal. Dessert was $9 extra but we gave it a miss.

After dinner, Ron Moon - the travel book writer came over and started talking to us and another couple from Tasmania. A very interesting bloke. He and his brother are traveling around checking the details for an update to the Kimberley Guide. Ron told the story of meeting up with his American brother who he only found out existed 10 years ago. The brother spends his time trying to find American soldiers MIA (missing in action) including from the 2nd world war. He does this with a staff of around 40. Recently Ron met up with his brother in New Guinea and found a mass grave of American soldiers and (I think) some Aussie graves as well. One of the people giving information on the area was a 92 year old tribal man who had seen the action when he was a child. There is now only a short window of opportunity to gain the information before those that were there during the war die out.

I asked Ron Moon to sign the Kimberley Guide that Lyle has, which he did.

To Mitchell Falls

I needed to backup some of my photos but with the laptop nearly flat and the impossibility of seeing the screen in the bright morning light (even with a towel over my head). A fellow in one of the rooms offered me the use of his room but eventually found an empty kitchen area where I could sit and just do the backups.

Our next stop was King Edward River Camp. Left at 11.40am and the road continued the same as yesterday with lots of corrugations. Drove through some pretty country, areas with lots of palms somehow seem wrong for the area, which looks pretty dry in parts but they certainly add to the landscape.

At last we arrived at the turnoff to Mitchell Falls and the King Edward River Campgrounds, only 8 km down the road. Crossed the river after checking out a side road which had a No Camping sign partway down the side road. Why it wasn’t near the turnoff is beyond me.

Gordon used the GPS to work out exactly where we needed to go to get to the campground. Eventually we found a track to the right and followed it to a split, one going to Camp 1 and the other to Camp 2. Took the LH track which led down to a beautiful campground next to the fast flowing King Edward River.

There are several swimming spots one with a waterfall and a large deep pool at the bottom. The climb down was quite steep and the rocks under water were very slippery. Needless to say Gordon and I managed it. The water was absolutely wonderful. Cool on a hot day. There were a couple of ledges just under the water, one right under the waterfall. The power of the water under the fall is amazing. I went a fairly small section of the fall which felt like a very strong spa as the water thunders down your back.

We had a fire, one of the few parks that allows fires. It became cold very early in the evening.

Watched the sun rise the next morning. The toilet is quite a hike, so, as one lady put it, you’re pretty desperate by the time you get there!

Everything outside became very wet with the dew. If we don’t have a tarp cover, just the stretchers, I put a plastic poncho over the mosquito net on the bottom end and a towel on the top end to keep everything dry. It did work. Decided it was such a beautiful area that we would have a rest day. Put up a tarp.

Took some photos of the river and the local area.

We were about to heat up a couple of ready made (TV) dinners for lunch when an APT man walked over and asked if we wanted a bacon and spinach frittata and some lettuce salad. We immediately abandoned our original meal and had the frittata. The lettuce was great as we can’t carry it, the fridge never seems to be able to stop it either freezing or going off quickly.

No sooner had we finished lunch than a different APT bus sent someone over with left over pie and bean salad. Dinner as well! I must say that it was very appreciated. APT catering is pretty accurate as there were only 3 pieces left after about a dozen people plus staff had eaten. The food was excellent. I would certainly recommend them for the food alone.
After our wonderful lunch, Lyle went for a walk to have a look at the other camp (Camp 2). Gordon and I went down the river past the swimming hole at the waterfall. The rocks became more and more difficult and harder to negotiate. We sat and watched the river gurgle over some small rapids and then walked back to the swimming hole, entering from a lower shelf at the far end of the waterhole.

Apart from showers (we erected the ensuite tent for a change room and showers) we didn’t do much else. Just relaxed.

Had the pie and bean salad for dinner, thanks APT.

Today we go to Mitchell Falls. Had heard the road is really bad, mostly with corrugations so left early as both Gordon and Lyle want to go there and back on the one day. I would have preferred to stay at Mitchell Falls so if there was a problem we wouldn’t be caught out in the dark at the end of the day.

All the rumours were correct. The road is bad, mostly with corrugations but there were also plenty of rocky sections and quite a few creek crossings with water although none of them were particularly deep. It took 2 ½ hours to do the 80kms with everything rattling like crazy.

Made a sandwich each with the 6 slices of bread we had left. Lyle ate his straight away. Gordon and I filled our water bottles (Lyle didn’t take one)

Took the small backpack and started off. Managed to put my foot into the 1st creek crossing we came to but luckily had my walking boots on and I stayed dry.

The first part of the walk is through open forest with a very easy track, just the occasional section with rock that needs to be climbed. Early on is an indigenous art site, well worth a look. I only saw it from a distance. Passed Little Merton Falls then eventually Big Merton Falls where we crossed the river at the top of the falls. The best view of the falls is after you have crossed the river there is a short ridge above the cliff where it is reasonably safe to walk.

By now it is getting hotter and I have drunk quite a lot of my water. By the time we were around 300-400 metres from the falls I was feeling quite light headed so we stopped and I ate my sandwich. My mouth was so dry I had to have sips of water between mouthfuls so I could swallow it.

We started off again. Now the track is much rockier. Climbing down to the river crossing we met up with Lyle again, soaking his feel in the river. He had gone ahead quite early in the piece. The river crossing is not deep but the water is pushing down to the waterfall. There are some poles indicating where the best area to cross is. The suggestion by one of the tour people was to leave your socks on to give you good purchase on the slippery rocks. It worked very well.

Gordon and I crossed the river and changed for a swim. The water was fantastic, cool but not very deep where we went in. The bottom is quite rocky and you need to take care as you move around.

Checked out where the helicopters landed as I had decided that I would get one back down, a 6 minute ride! The track goes a little further to a spectacular view of the falls. The walk goes around the edge of the gorge and involves a little more rock climbing. There is a view of the 1st 3 falls from a ledge where you climb around a rock sticking out. Care is a requisite.

Walking further and climbing over more rocks you walk through a narrow passage to another small ledge where you have a view of the 4 falls. The space is quite small, only enough room for a few people at any one time, particularly if you want to get some good photos. I climbed back through the passage only to find a whole tour group waiting to go in! The drop is a very long way so great care is required. Not recommended for people who have a problem with heights, but well worth the effort. The best falls I have seen in Australia.

Gordon and I went back to the helicopter landing site. Apparently you are supposed to book the flight from the bottom before you go up. However I was lucky and there were only 3 other people catching the next helicopter taxi. It has 7 seats so I was able to get the flight down. I was told that only the 1.30pm flight (the one I caught) and the 2.30pm flight had any spare seats. No where in their literature does it say you must book from the bottom, a little remiss I think. Once I was on the flight Gordon started on the walk down. He took about 45 minutes.

Lyle was waiting under cover in the picnic ground having crackers and a drink at the table. I had lots of water and waited for Gordon to come down.

The ranger arrived and came over for a chat. He told us that last year when a tour bus with a trailer had gone around a corner too fast the trailer slid out and hit a tree and pulled the bus onto it’s side. None of the passengers were wearing seat belts and they were thrown all over the place. Some had spinal injuries and some were OK with lots of injuries in between. The accident happened at around 9am and the last of the injured left the site for Broome Hospital at around 4.30pm. Some of them the more injured as they took a long time to stabilize for the flight. This happened on an extremely hot day. With the remoteness of the area it takes a long time to get services in and people do die waiting for help. In other words, take if very easy on the road.

Gordon arrived back and after drink, food and cooling down we left so we would have plenty of time to get back to Edward River. On the way Lyle had to stop and tighten lots of the nuts and bolts including the ones holding the fridge. Stopped at what seemed to be a lookout but with lots of trees it was too hard to get a photo. By now it is around 4.30pm. A car and trailer pull into the lookout and decide to stay there for the night as driving on that road at night would not be a good idea, especially with a trailer and the creek crossing still to go.

Managed to drop my polarizing filter squarely on a rock. That is now no more.

Continued on our way and suddenly we could smell smoke whenever the brakes were applied. Lyle checked and we appear to be leaking brake fluid. He realized after a couple of stops that every time he pushed the clutch in the fluid squirted out onto the brakes which then burnt. As he was worried about something catching fire he tried to drive changing gears as little as possible. This meant sometimes it was too fast and others very slow. By now it is well and truly dusk with darkness not far behind. If we had to stop it would be a real problem as everything was back at the other camp. We did have water and food but not much clothing and the nights get quite cold. We did make it back but it was a good lesson in not cutting things too fine.

There is quite a good aboriginal site at Edward River which we looked at the next day on the way back to Drysdale station.

Lyle booked in to see the mechanic again, but when he arrived at the allotted time was told the job they had on was bigger than expected and to come back tomorrow. Lyle checked for the problem again the next morning and realized what it was. He was able to go to the workshop and do the repair himself as it entailed putting in a washer that had been left out when some work was done on the car in Cairns.

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Photos

Boab on the Gibb
Boab's don't have rings in them to measure growth. I wasn't able to find a consensus on how they measured the age. However some of the larger boabs are estimated to be over 1500 years old.

Cliff top boab
Boab's generally grow on low ground where there is water for longer periods. Yet some obviously survive on the top of cliffs.

Lillimooloora
This station has a lot of history, both as a cattle station and then as a police station.

Windjana Passage
Lyle about to enter the narrow passage into Windjana Gorge

Fossil in Windjana
There are many fossils, this area was once a coral reef.

Windjana Gorge
This is taken a short distance from the entrance to the gorge.

Freshie
As the sun warmed up the freshwater crocodiles came out of the water.

March Fly Glen
This very pretty picnic area had a billabong covered in water lillies just behind the car.

Galvans Gorge
A gorge we stopped at which was only 1km in. Very pretty and a number of people swam. Well worth the walk.

Edward R swimming
The deep, cool pool below the falls.

Gibb tyre change
Those tyres are heavy

Fridge phone
A very different phone booth

Surviving the wet
The heavy flooding causes the trees in the river bed to be distorted into gnarled, elongated shapes.

water lillies
This is a billabong covered in water lillies on the way to Mitchell Plateau.

Crossing Big Merton Falls
You need to be very careful and not slip. There is a lady with 2 walking sticks crossing.

Big Merton Falls
A very narrow gorge.

Mitchell Falls
This view is well worth the walk.

small ledge
There is a large rock behind the ledge that gives a feeling of safety.