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Published: November 20th 2010
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Well, I'm on the move once more, currently writing from the State Library in Perth. It is a scorching +39 degrees today and hot all week so far! Yesterday, it was only +37 degrees and a nice pleasant day was spent at Cottesloe Beach, south of Perth with my Austrian friend, Doris. Three days ago, that very beach was closed when a 2.5 metre Great White shark showed up to run everyone out of the water and spoil the festivities! The sand is so white and the water is so blue, it's like a postcard. Not the peak of summer yet, so the waters of the Indian Ocean were a little, how shall we say, refreshing. But a great way to beat the heat all the same. We continued walking along the esplanade ending up at the Naked Fig Cafe for an iced-coffee with ice cream to watch a marvelous sunset from the raised patio deck.
I've been staying at the Perth City YHA since Sunday, November 14. It's a very well kept, if institutional style facility, with something like 250 beds. My good friend Silvana travelled with me from Melbourne, and stayed until Tuesday to share some sights and
travel experiences together. The first day was spent exploring on foot, stopping for a photo op at the Swan Bell Tower, with 14th century bells that came from London. Next we happened upon an open house at St. Mary's Cathedral and the Sisters of Mercy College For Girls founded in 1831 by Catherine McAuley. We were guided through the grounds by a couple of earnest, grade 8 teenaged girls, dressed in their green uniforms, white bobby socks and black shoes. On the way out, I stopped and chatted with an ancient, grizzled character, wild grey hair in a black headband, smoking roll-your-own cigarrettes. Silvana thought Alexander looked like a pirate! He was pushing his bicycle, a White Cockatoo, chained to his arm, with some sort of plants in his basket, probably to feed his pet, affectionately called Chicky. He's had Chicky since she was a chick, 39 years ago, so they've seen some adventures together. Then we took the train to Feemantle, a 30 minute train ride away, and while walking up Market Street, found ourselves in the middle of the Festival of Freemantle street parade. Floats, dancing, marching bands, and performers made for a nice surprise. They had a
stage set up for local musicians, one playing a digeridoo, with so much gusto, accompanied by an aboriginal dancer. How cool. We went for the classic fish and chips at Cicerellos and I tried the local Freo Doc Beer. Not my fave.
On Monday, November 15 , Silvana and I took a day trip out to Rokknest Island, a wonderful little windswept rocky outpost, overpopulated by cat-sized Quokkas. The Quokka has the face and body of a Wallabey, but the tail of a rat, hence the misperception of the earliest Dutch explorers, who mistakenly called these marsupials, rats. The 45 minute ferry ride was really disturbed on the way over, by at least 100 screaming, exciteable junior high-school kids, out on a four day camping excursion. We walked up to Bathhurst Lighthouse and plunked ourselves down on Pinky Beach to take some sun. This was before the current heat wave. Silvana suggested that I immerse myself, and I said "you first"! She wouldn't lead the way, so I finally took the plunge. Very refreshing. Another thing we have to put up with are the annoying Australian Bush Flies, who land all over your face seeking moisture in this dry
climate. So we had ample practice doing the Aussie wave, to keep them at bay! And all too soon, we had to catch the 1630 ferry back to Fremantle, catching some very choppy waters, causing more than a few seasickness incidents amongst the passengers! At the dock, I chatted with the crew of the Steve Irwin, my Crocodile Hunter hero who sadly passed away a few years ago. This ship is painted aggressively all black as an anti-whaling vessle. One of the crew, Phil told me they were provisioning for a 3 month campaign in the Antarctic Ocean, leaving the next day, so he couldn't invite me aboard. There were 7 national and 3 Pirate flags painted on the side of the superstructure, with the word "Sunk" titled over top! We had a very nice Italian pizza at Sandrino, which I recommend highly to fellow travellers for taste enhanced by wood-fired ovens, and a pleasant atmosphere.
We passed the afternoon of Tuesday, November 16th walking up to Kings Park, stopping along the way for a coffee and cake at the historic King Street Cafe with wood floors and pioneer atmosphere. We ambled along the walking trails of the Botanic
Gardens taking in the wonderful sights of the Perth skyline from the escarpment. I saw a rather large Ornate Crevis Dragon sunning itself and I really wanted to pick it up and say hello! However, at that moment some sort of territorial bird swooped in on the scene and started attacking the lizard! My guess is that the bird has a nest nearby and was driving the intruder away. Amazing nature at it's finest. I found the Boabs trees, Giants of the North from the Northern Territory quite fascinating as they drop their leaves in the dry season and store heaps of water in their trunks till the rains return. That night Silvana left for Hong Kong, so I'm on my own again, having checked into a four-bed dorm room at the YHA. Oh the joys of hostelling!
And since Wednesday, I've been trying to make travel arrangements for the South West's beautiful beaches and the Tree Top Walk at The Valley of the Giants. I even put a posting up on the travel board at several hostels. However it didn't happen as I wasn't able to get things organized in time, so I'm spending my days hanging around
Fire Station Open House
Another tour of duty for me! the metro area of Perth. As a last resort I was going to splash out for the very expensive three day tour, costing $500, but the Saturday departure was cancelled. At nightime and on the weekends the city centre is like a ghost town, devoid of humanity, which is kind of weird, everyone having cleared off for their suburban lifestyles.
Wednesday night was fun as I participated in the Quiz Night at Packaz Bar, ajoining the hostel. I was put on a team with a couple of locals who've been around the block, John and Lindsay, who often drop in for drinks after work. We were competitive and finished respectably, but our memory banks were fogged over by too many $5 pints of Tooheys Extra Dry! Why was I having so much trouble identifying the country with another London on the Thames, other than Britian? It must be a trick question! At closing time, the bartender was prying my fingers off my half-full glass so he could shut the doors! Believe me, I was ready for sleepytime!
We went to see the romantic comedy, Eat Pray Love, starring Julia Roberts. A pretty decent flick as the protagonist searches
for meaning in her life by taking one year to travel to Italy for food, India for truth, and Bali for Love. We are all searching for something aren't we?
So now, I'm just biding my time until my flight for Bali departs on Tuesday, November 23rd. I'll keep myself amused I'm sure as the Northbridge Festival is on all weekend, within walking distance to the YHA.
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doreen gingras
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photos
Great photos Rene. Thanks for posting them. Enjoy the next stage of your journey. hugs, mom