Red Mist

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DAY 193

The day was introduced to me and Andy by another lovely chorus from the local Dingo’s, it was about 3.30am, there is something quite pleasant about listening to them this morning, it does sound as if they are rehearsed and in tune with each other.

We went back to sleep and were again woken up by the 5.00 Dingo chorus, pleasant again but still too early.

It was a cold night, but we were toasty in bed, we are contemplating getting another blanket, believe me when I say it is cold at night it is cold, the temperature drops rapidly as soon as the sun goes, and some nights in this semi desert environment it can be frosty.

We got up at 7.30, just in time to hear Kirsty drive off to go on a bit of a bird watch, Kirsty is not quite a twitcher but she does take an interest and is keen to find a couple of birds that are local to this area.

The kettle is on and we are in a hive of activity here, getting ready for the day ahead, swimmers on, hiking boots ready, cold drink is ready and packed, lunch kit is in the truck. Andrew is connecting a solar panel in order to recharge his batteries for the caravan, in the meantime Kirsty returns disappointed that she has been unable to see the birds that she wanted.

Kirsty needed a bird list for the National Park, but unfortunately the visitor’s centre was unable to provide one. However on our way out this morning we needed to stop at the camp host site and pay for an additional night here and while we were there Kirsty asked about a bird list and thankfully they were able to provide one so Kirsty is happy that she knows what to look for in the area.

We head out to the visitors centre, Andy is interested in having an ice-lolly but when we find out the prices, we decide against it. We also find out that they have showers there at a cost of $2.00, but they are only open between 9.00 and 4.00. We are not too worried today because we swam yesterday, but we would like a shower before leaving here tomorrow.

We drive on toward Weano Gorge, we are spending the day out there, having a short walk this morning, back to the truck for lunch and then an longer walk this afternoon.

From the visitors centre the road is entirely rough track, so we have reduced the tyre pressures as per the instructions in our Cooper tyres booklet, we are very cautious with this now as we had a puncture a few days ago.

We follow Andrew and Kirsty, using the UHF radio to keep in touch. We drop back from them otherwise we find that we are eating their dust. There is a lot of red dust around, we are surrounded by a red mist that envelopes the truck. When the red mist settles we can see amazing views of Karijini National Park, it is stunning.

We arrive at Weano Gorge, and then take the short walk to the Oxer lookout, the day is turning out to be very hot and shade is very welcome. This place is very busy with tourists.

There are two lookouts we can see views over or toward Red, Wittenoom, Weano, Joffre and Hancock Gorge’s where they all converge. We see a couple of people deep in Joffre Gorge at junction pool who look as if they have done the full Class 6 walk which you can only do if you have a nationally recognised accreditation to abseil and climb on natural surfaces or are under supervision of someone that has accreditation and of course using the correct equipment.

In the car park we see a Landrover Discovery which looks very dull, we think that the paintwork is worn away with the constant grit and sand that is blowing around here, however we find out from the owner that it has a protective spray coating to protect the paintwork, which can just be washed off with a high pressure jet wash.

After lunch we were heading off to Hancocks Gorge to do a Class 4 walk followed by a Class 5, I was more than happy to do the walk until it got to a point where I would find it too difficult as I was uncertain about how difficult the class 5 walk would be.

On the way a chap and his wife were sat having some lunch, they told us what walk they had done in the morning and were told that the one we were all about to do was much better, the scenery was going to be stunning.

Off we trot and a short while of stepping down some steps into the gorge we come across a ladder, I do feel a bit nervy about doing this, but it has to be done so with some coaching I am on the ladder and soon at the bottom, so far so good but at the bottom of the ladder we are now in the class 5 walk, this bit will take us up to Kermits pool, where we will be unable to go any further due to the walk turning into a class 6.

However, we arrive at the first obstacle, we had been told that there would be some cold water to wade through so be prepared to take our socks and shoes off. Initially I thought no problem yet when I got there I thought, perhaps not, it will get too difficult and the rocks will be slippery, I have already had one bad fall on this trip and feel wary about doing anything else.

There were a few people sat around there and some were on their way back, others were preparing themselves to wade through the water. Andrew and Kirsty were through, I was still contemplating not going, Andy said he was happy to do what I wanted to do. Then we saw the guy that we spoke to at the top, he was very encouraging, but I said that I am a bit of a wimp, to which he replied “I would defy anyone that said you were a wimp, when you have come this far into the gorge.” Well, of course I had to try and do the next bit, so off with my hiking boots and socks and then waded into the cold water, it was supposed to be knee height but that depends on how tall you are, the water was lapping around the hem of my shorts!!

I got through that bit and Andy followed, we dried our feet and back on with our socks and boots, we were told that the next bit would have to be done with dry boots, otherwise the rocks would be too slippery which is why we waded through in bare feet and made sure our boots were dry.

At the next bit Kirsty and Andrew ambled ahead on the rocks, I thought again perhaps I could not do the next bit, there is a narrow ledge to walk on but what is a bit off putting is the 6 foot deep freezing cold passage of water below us. The worst that could happen is that you would get wet and cold if you fell off the ledge (great!). However I was not confident with the manoeuvre to get round a very tricky bit of ledge as that would mean hanging onto the rock very tightly and bringing your leg up high (and along a bit!). I knew that if I was not confident in the manoeuvre then I should not do it.

Now one thing this guy had already mentioned to us was to watch the people coming back, they will give you the best advice on where to walk and as luck would have it they came over the top ledges which were wider. Relief, after some deliberation and encouragement from my fellow team members I picked a route and went to the next bit. Knowing that at any point I can back out.

But of course knowing that at each point I was going to get encouragement from my team to do the next bit because the view was different and stuffing, the rocks are incredibly red and you can the darkness of the iron in the striking red rock.

We find an oasis in the middle of this deep gorge, Kirsty spies some birds and confirms that they are Painted Finches, she is happy.

Past the natural amphitheatre the next bit is the spider walk, I think that I have come far enough, as the spider walk you have to stretch yourself across a narrow passage and use your arms to carry your weight while you find your foot hold, the worst that can happen here is that you dip your foot in 6 inches of freezing cold water rushing beneath you.

Andrew takes the lead and directs me where to put my feet, Kirsty and Andy follow me closely. Fortunately Andrew has also taken my camera rucksack just to make my passage through a little bit easier.

Finally I am through and arrive at Kermits Pool, we are already quite deep in the gorge, but the gorge goes deeper, because beyond Kermits Pool is the class 6 track and a rock climb down to the bottom of Hancocks Gorge where you find Regans Pool. Regans Pool is named after an SES (State Emergency Service) Volunteer died in a flash flood while trying to rescue an injured tourist.

At Kermits pool we see the couple that spoke to us at the top of the gorge and then again when this guy encouraged me to carry on through the cold water. He actually looked really pleased to see me, saying that his wife had said “Guess who’s coming down the spider walk?” adding, “I am really proud of you.” Well I should feel chuffed, it is too easy to back out.

You can walk past Kermits Pool to have a look further down the track, but for me I have done plenty, I have achieved a great deal by coming this far and at every difficult point I was ready to back out, but I did not, I carried on going. I came to the realisation that if I wanted a quiet life I probably would have stayed at home, there would be no point coming this far and not seeing some of the splendours just because it means making an effort.

I find out later that one of the guys walking back past us did not actually do the spider walk he said it was too much for him. Well I guess at least he knew his limits, but I am chuffed that I did the Spider Walk.

I think it took us 35 minutes to walk back up to the top including the ladder, I guess that we were comfortable with the terrain and knew which path to take but the water that we waded through was definitely feeling colder. There was no sun on it now, it was completely in the shade.

A slow drive back to camp, the sun was going down the scenery was again spectacular, the rich red colours piercing the green and yellow landscape.

We stopped airstrip to top up our drinking water and then just another 10 kilometres back to Dales Campground, where Kirsty and Andrew were waiting with a cup of tea and a packet of biscuits.

We settle down for a short rest, I type the blog (we are 3 days behind at the moment) and Andy cooks us all up a great curry, we sit in Andrew and Kirsty’s caravan and eat in the warmth, it is cold out there again.

Something tells me that we will be in bed early tonight, we are all sitting here feeling exhausted for our walking efforts today.

By 9.30 we are all in our respective beds, tucked up to keep the bitter cold night out and listen to the Dingo’s howling at each other across the National Park.

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Photos

The Red Mist
The red dust gets every where, and is kicked up along the corrugated roads

Red Dirt
This red dirt is a fantastic colour in contrast with the vegetation

Weano Gorge
Two people have done the Class 6 walk in the gorges, you need to be able to rock climb and abseil to do this walk. This picture shows them with their equipment at the bottom of the gorge, they are in wetsuits as they have to wade or swim through icy water.

Another Lizard
Basking in the hot Sun

Ladder
To descend in to Hancocks Gorge

Boots Off
Taking my boots & Socks Off

Bottom
The Bottom of the gorge

At the end
At Kermits Pool