Tasmania part 3: Gourmet Goodness


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Oceania » Australia » Tasmania » Launceston
April 7th 2013
Published: April 7th 2013
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On one of our first nights in Tasmania when we were still in Hobart, we started watching The Biggest Loser on television and became inexplicably drawn to this reality TV show. After a week in Tasmania, we may well become contestants.

Before I came to Tasmania I had noticed my local supermarket seemed to be sourced entirely from Tasmania. This was one of the reasons I was looking forward to visiting. You can't come to Tasmania and not be impressed with the local produce. Almost without exception, every meal we've had has been delicious, and all locally sourced.

At every turn, we stumbled across another epicurean delight. One afternoon on the east coast we visited the Freycinet Marine Park and polished off a dozen oysters - each- just because we could. They had been in the water only a couple of hours before our visit. We bought them from a little shed in a field, then ate them in humble outdoor picnic surrounds with kookaburras watching us and laughing from afar. I love oysters and always have - if only I could do that every day.

We've had some memorable meals. After winding our way up the eastern coast, we ended up at Scotsdale, at a gorgeous little B&B. We had pre-arranged a dinner, and after a long day of driving, arriving at a beautifully renovated farm-house with a home cooked meal was just what we needed. Produce from their neighbours and fruit and vegetables from the garden made for a real treat. Sticking with the reality television theme, I suggested they go on to My Kitchen Rules, and they surprised me by saying that they've applied and the producers recently visited them. Cross fingers they make it - apart from anything else they were hilarious, and will make fabulous television viewing, not to mention their cooking was sensational.

As we travelled through the north-eastern part of the island, around Launceston and up through to Devonport, we couldn't help but notice how much like New Zealand it looked, with green rolling pastures and a very agricultural feel. Not surprisingly we thought it was very pretty. All the same, I was surprised to see a sign advertising a local market and a hangi of all things, in the little village of Chudleigh.

In Launceston, we had a brief non-food related morning after we stumbled across King's Park, almost by accident. It sits adjacent to the Cataract Gorge, which is a beautiful rugged and rambling forest, right in the city. Those lucky Launcestonians (if that's what's they're called) to have this on their doorstep. I had read somewhere that the Cataract Gorge was "an easy 15 minute walk west of the city". We set off on our "easy 15 minute walk", inadvertently taking the zig-zag trail, which as you might expect from its name, starts with a steep uphill hike for around 20 minutes. Passing joggers and hikers looked at us curiously in our flimsy footwear and unsuitable clothing. It was much more intrepid than we had anticipated. However this unexpected journey was all worth it, and we were rewarded with spectacular views both looking back over the city and up the Cataract Gorge. The really good news was that it was a loop track, and we could walk back via a flat, paved pathway. The total walk took about 40 minutes, but the path out was a doddle compared to the trek in that's for sure.

After our Cataract adventure, we felt a good lunch was deserved, so we were off to Stillwater, one of the restaurants we had been recommended. Sitting on the edge of the park, overlooking the river, the food and ambiance were fantastic.

We had booked a couple of nights at a very upmarket B&B just out of Hadspen. For the first night we ate dinner at the in-house restaurant. Like everywhere else we've been, the food was locally sourced and tasted fantastic. Choices included rabbit terrine, mushroom risotto, Coquilles St Jacques for entree and beef filet, chicken or pork belly for mains. Those keen-eyed amongst you may notice there's no photographs of dessert. While I'd like to say that's because I exercised restraint, the truth was because when the dark chocolate semi-freddo turned up I was so excited, I dove right in, and then it tasted so exquisite, I scoffed the lot.

We had one day which was devoted almost entirely to sampling local delights. We discovered the "Cradle to Coast Tasting Trail", which was filled with all sorts off local produce and available for us to sample. It included honey factories, berry farms, cherry orchards, cheese factories, a salmon farm and my favourite - a chocolate factory. I've always had a weakness for good quality dark chocolate so this was a must, and yet again didn't leave empty handed.

Surprisingly enough, even after a day of tasting our way around Latrobe and Devonport, we squeezed in one more gourmet meal, this time at the Black Cow, reputedly one of the best restaurants in Tasmania. Wow, they're not wrong. It's located in an old butcher's shop, and suitably with that pedigree and that name, specialises in "premium Tasmanian beef, dry-aged, free range, grass fed, and artificial hormone free". I briefly contemplated the 500g Rib Eye just because it sounded so good, but even if I hadn't spent an entire day sampling fabulous food I know it would have defeated me. So I modestly selected the Eye Fillet with cafe de paris butter and wasn't disappointed.

Sadly it's time to get back to Sydney and back to work - and back to the gym unless you want to see me on a future edition of The Biggest Loser. Anyone with even a passing interest in good food and wine, could not help but leave with an extra bag or two, filled with Tasmanian epicurean delights. As it happens, I'm happy to have discovered that the wineries will send their wine back to Sydney for me, although as for the cheese, chocolate, herbs, quince paste, fudge, honey, jam, chutney.....I'll just have to make some space. The good news though is that Tasmania's gourmet goodness won't be missed in Potts Point - the local supermarket is fully stocked!


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At Josef ChromyAt Josef Chromy
At Josef Chromy

Another delicious wine spot. My wine cabinet has never looked so healthy.


7th April 2013

All travel expands your horizons!
Sylvia and felt the same when we came back from Tasmania. But we also felt the same when we came back from Broken Hill and Vanuatu and England and the USA. I believe it is the revenge nature has on travellers for having so much fun. The up-side is that you are so poor when you come back that you have to eat well to recover. [:)]
7th April 2013

You are so right! My credit card will take a while to recover...however I do have an excellent supply of cheese, quince paste and chocolate!
8th April 2013

Tooooo tempting.
Have so much enjoyed all your blogs from Tasmania especially Part 3. Has all been too mouth-watering. Great how it all started and ended at the supermarket......went the full circle!! Hope you and mother are now safely back in Sydney.
8th April 2013
Chicken breast, slaw and sweet potato

What a great picture
I love the food shots you have in your blog. This really stood out in my opinion. Enjoy the rest of your trip
8th April 2013
Chicken breast, slaw and sweet potato

Thank you! The food in Tasmania was really sensational. I'm a little bit sad that I didn't get a shot of the dark chocolate semi-freddo as it was so fantastic. The trip is over sad to say, so I'm back and work and day-dreaming about the next one. No doubt you're doing the same!

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