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Published: December 22nd 2011
On the Monday the bus picked us up again, this time we were off to Wineglass Bay and the Freycinet National Park. Several years ago I was given a book about the top 10 beaches in the World, depending on what list you look at and what time the beaches included change like the wind, but I decided that I wanted to visit every beach on that list. Wineglass Bay being one I was really looking forward to this trip and the opportunity to become that little bit closer to completing the list.
We made several stops in different locations to take photos of the scenery from the Hazards, pink granite mountains rising straight out of the water, to the sheltered waterway that they form. We climbed up the mountain trail to the Wineglass Bay lookout, about an hour’s hike over rough terrain, stopping to look at lizards and other wildlife hiding beside the track and taste the leaves of certain plants. One of which, possibly in the eucalypt family has oral numbing properties and we learnt that if you make a brew from them they’re a hallucinogen, or a poison… don’t personally fancy practicing the quantities myself. The mountain was also covered in huge granite boulders that looked to be the remains from Sisyphus’ monumental task, cue boulder pushing poses!
The view from the lookout was awe inspiring. The perfectly curved white sandy beach, the tropical turquoise/blue water, the light frosting of clouds that lingered over the mountain peaks like whipped cream on a chocolate Sundae. My bubble was burst when our tour guide informed me that we wouldn’t be walking the hours hike down to the beach as we had other things to fit in. Gutted isn’t the word I’m now going to have to return another day to tick this beach off my list. We took our photos, zooming as much as possible to try and get the best feel as to what it would be like to actually be on the beach, I say WE but limited to my iPhone’s digital zoom I just stuck scenic pictures. We made our way back down the trail. I was slower on the decent, laden with the disappointment at my failure to set foot on the beach. The mood was lifted quickly though as upon arrival at the car park there were a couple of pademelons and a couple of small kangaroos, one complete with a joey filled pouch, hopping from bush to bush, completely un-phased by the audience they had attracted.
Lunch break was to be taken at Honeymoon Bay, a picturesque little secluded beach complete with built in, free, electric BBQ facilities and picnic area… I love this country! We sat on a large run of metamorphic rock and listened to the water gently lap against the once fluid lump that was now our view point and picnic site. Recharged and refueled we set off in search of Sleepy Bay. The path down to the beach was soft and springy and felt almost hollow underneath, a feeling that some or the group found unsettling. We set foot on the beach made of tiny stoned and shells, not quite eroded enough to call sand, and did a double take. The other side of the beach was a set of boulders and one of them had… a cave in it! One by one we climbed up in for the mandatory photos, some needing a little more help than others. Further up our guide disappeared completely then popped up like a meercat from the other side of a rock formation. He ushered us along an outcrop in the cliff face and explained to us that there was a hidden cave. Behind us at ankle height was a hole that we were to all climb through one by one. Most of the group was up for it and within 10 minutes we were 8 people in a cave you could fit 20 in but not quite standing.
On our way back we stopped off at Kate’s Berry Farm, a quaint little berry farm with shop and café outlet. With blueberry pie and homemade blueberry ice cream on the menu I was like a child in a sweet shop… it wasn’t on the plate very long.
The last trip before heading to back to the mainland was to see the bottom end of Australia from above and below with the Tahune Airwalk and Hastings caves. Metal walkways stretched out through an expanse of gigantic trees to a 40m high cantilever that stretched in a rather less than rigid manner. On route was a ‘wishing stump’ throw a coin that stays on the stump and get a wish, all those that fall are collected and put towards a charity that helps children to get their wishes, a genuine win win situation. The first coin left my hand with just enough back spin to make it tumble the “ meter drop, land the near side, bounce once in the middle and land within an inch of the far side and settle, Ryan – 1 Stump – 0. I made my wish, completed my elaborate victory dance and rejoined the rest of the group.
The same people that found the cantilever a challenge looked almost defeated when we reached the swinging bridges. Naturally we allowed the couple of ladies that were scared of heights to go first and waited by the start for them to cross. Once they were half way the sincere smiles turned into menacing grins and the fun began, 2 of the lads from the group began to jump up and down on the beginning of the bridge sending rippled shock waves along it towards the terrified girls. Their shrieks of fear were bracketed by giggles that only encouraged their tormentors. Finally everyone got across the bridge and the girls took it all in good humour, laughing and calling the boys assholes but smiling throughout. At the second bridge the girls made their tormentors go first but with them at one end, the girls in the middle and people such as myself at the start who missed out on the first bit of fun, I believe they made the wrong decision. With people now jumping on either end sending shock waves towards a crescendo of bucking force the bridge was bucking up to a meter high. This time there were no giggles, just screams… and abuse!
We left the Tahune area with friendships still intact and set a course for the Hastings caves. Discovered by an illegal logging operation on a rival companies ground, these caves were first found in 1917, cut into dolomite harder and heavier than limestone it’s one of only a few of its kind in Australia. We descended into the cold damp void on the 45 minute guided tour with a rather eccentric tour guide. Don’t worry… I made sure to take photos of suggestive stalagmites during the tour.
That concluded my activities in Tasmania, all that was left was to pack up, jump on the bus to Devonport and board the prison ferry back to the mainland. The bus trip was uneventful which gave me plenty of time to submerge myself in the world of Carlos Ruiz Zafron. We arrived at the ferry terminal right on time and I was able to board straight away. I found my seat and settled down a couple of rows behind some bikers who had been riding in the rain most of the day. It was just then that I realized a familiar smell… really?!... Really?!... Someone had actually been sea sick before we had even left the dock!! I found salvation when the bikers took off their wet weather gear and boots, the damp musty smell was overpowering, suppressing the stench of the vomit. Funnily enough this was the point where I decided to go for a walk around ship.
On my travels I became aware of the fact that I was hungry and made my first venture to the canteen. I had the choice of a $59 main course in the restaurant side or nearly $30 main in the café. Personally I though these extortionate prices for an average meal was typical of a situation where all food is confiscated upon entry and a captive customer. I climbed 2 stories found a vending machine and bought 3 packets of crisps and the free cinema, You can take the bloke out of Cornwall…
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ELABORATE VICTORY DANCE
What did you elaborate victory dance entail? Did you perform it with a kangaroo? It all sounds awesome and I am, as the kids would say, "well jel". I believe "jel" is an abbreviated form of "jellabah", which is a kind of cloak worn by men in North Africa. That should be your next trip. BRING ME A JELLABAH.