Kernewek Lowender - Copper Coast Cornish Festival


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Oceania » Australia » South Australia » Moonta Bay
May 18th 2023
Published: May 22nd 2023
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Tuesday 16th May 2023

Nice and easy departure from the park and we were soon on our way. First stop was the seafood outlet at Port Wakefield where we bought the delicious prawn meat that we discovered at a seafood seller in the back blocks, when we were stranded there. Two bags of prawn meat and two packets of smoked salmon were purchased before we visited the bakery there for a coffee. Then on to Moonta. Here we were soon booked in at the caravan park with an easy drive-through bay right on the water's edge.

We drove back to the township and spent some time reuniting with the sights. Little had changed since we were here 6 years ago, some shops had gone, others in their place, new ones now there. It was lovely to be back.

Wednesday 17th May 2023

After a good night's sleep we were ready for the action! Why were we here? Who did we meet? Let Judy explain: A third cousin, Sue Bunker had contacted me asking for information as she was nominating our ancestor my great, great, great grandfather for a "Dressing of the Grave". What was this - we had to come to find out. A citation is read out about the ancestor's life, flowers are placed on the grave and local children sing.

After the ceremonies were completed, we went to the local pub, the Royal Exchange with the other Thomas connections. They have daily specials there for $16 which include a salad and vegetable buffet.

After this we did a little shopping before returning to the van for a snooze.

Thursday 18th May 2023

Our treat this morning was to have a coffee in town and to have a Cornish Oggy with it. This is meant to be a meal in one; 2/3 of the pasty is filled with vegetables, the other 1/3 is filled with apple. They come with tomato sauce for one end, whipped cream for the other. The pasty is shaped almost like a cone, with the thicker end the veges, the pointy end the apple. Tasty, but we wouldn't go out of our way for one.

We then drove the 15kms or so to the next town, Wallaroo. This is dominated by wheat silos, both on open areas outside of the town and several large silos next to the harbour. Wheat is obviously the main crop in this region. There is also a ferry which transports cars and trucks across to the Eyre Peninsula but we couldn't find where it berths.

We drove around the town, when we were here about 7 years ago we were only in town for a night and didn't see much of it. There seems to have been a lot of development near the harbour with many blocks overlooking it. Unfortunately the building company has gone bust, leaving streets full of half completed homes. This must have happened some time ago as weeds have grown around the structures and the weather is causing much damage. Hopefully not too many people will be suffering much longer.

A modern shopping centre has been built with Drakes being the centre highlight. We have come across this name in many South Australian towns, competing with Coles and Woolworths. A large display of winter gear such as socks and gloves caught our eye, with Rags now the proud owner of a pair of thermal socks plus more woollen ones.

On our return to the van both of us felt rather tired and the afternoon was
Nankivell ParkNankivell ParkNankivell Park

This is an ancestor's name but it was actually named after Christopher Henry Nankivell to commemorate his work to develop the park. He never married.
wiled away reading and snoozing.

Friday 19th May 2023

Today was meant to be one where all the events for the Cornish Festival would be held in Moonta, including the official opening by the Governor of South Australia.

As there was to be a street parade of locals in traditional dress we ensured we were there ready for it. We were early so we sat in the car for a while and then the heavens opened. It looked as if the parade would be cancelled, or be a very wet one for them. Luckily there was a break in the weather and it proceeded. It was a fun event, unfortunately the lead floats were too fast or the following too slow, as there was a huge gap between the two. Eventually they all reached the town oval where the official opening would be, followed by schoolchildren performing Maypole dancing, food stalls, art/craft stalls and the usual fair stalls all in the background.

We took our seats in front of the stage, the S.A. Police Band set up next to the stage and the MC filling in time with poetry relevant to the day. They were running about 30 minutes late for some reason at this stage and storm clouds were approaching rather quickly. No sooner had the Welcome to Country been given, the rain commenced. They struggled on but by the time the Governor started her speech the heavens opened and most, including us, of scattered for cover. The rain persisted and in the end they cut short the opening, allowing groups of school children, who were assembled in the middle of the oval, to present their Maypole items in the rain. Heartbreaking for all involved, especially as one could tell that many hours had gone into styling the girls' hair into ringlets to go with the costume..

We quit at this time, back to the car and to the van to dry out and get warmer. As it was lunchtime we enjoyed hot pumpkin soup and fresh bread that we had prepared yesterday.

As the rain had stopped and the sun come out again, Judy suggested we get out. So off we went to the cemetery to search for graves of relatives of Judy's on her mother's side. We found several, as well as other names Judy has researched, photos were taken so that the information could be used on her hobby horse, Wikitree. Rags enjoyed the exercise more as he walked up and down the rows looking for names.

We completed our afternoon by driving along the set tourist route looking at the sludge piles and old partially restored buildings, all that remains of an important copper mining industry. If copper hadn't been found here and in Burra, Judy's relatives may never have immigrated to Australia all those years ago.

Saturday 20th May 2023

We woke up to a cloudy day with threatening clouds on the horizon. We drove to Kadina, about 15kms away, for the Jenny and Jack competition. This was a Cornish tradition originally where everyone had a cousin Jenny or Jack to do some needed job, now it was the name of a dress-up a baby competition. Just as it started so did the rain but the competition continued with proud Mums in Cornish dress showing off their baby dressed in similar garb. We stayed until the rain became too heavy, then departed to a coffee cafe just up the street.

The rain abated and whilst Rags went off to find some oil for the
Maypole dance. Maypole dance. Maypole dance.

We were impressed on how they all knew where to move to so that the streamers ended neatly plaited on the pole.
car, Judy continued her window shopping and looking through interesting little shops. When we reunited the Maypole dances were about to begin and we spent the next 30 mins or so thoroughly enjoying watching the kids go through their routine. This was new to us and interesting how the children weaved in and out around each other. When the dancing and music stopped, the streamers were wrapped around the pole in a colourful pattern.

Next was a demonstration of the Furry dance, but we had to watch this through the window of the pub, as we moved inside to enjoy the daily special of beef rissoles before the crowds entered. This was a good decision as the dining area soon filled making seating more difficult.

We bought a few provisions and refuelled the car before returning to the van, the decision to leave first thing Monday made, hopefully to get out of the inclement weather.

Sunday 21st May 2023

The only event today we were interested in was the Copper Coast Classic Cavalcade of cars and motorcycles. All had to be models were pre 1973. The cavalcade started in Wallaroo, went through Moonta and Pt Hughes,
Falcon GTHOFalcon GTHOFalcon GTHO

They had quite a few of these, both real and copies. All had that distinct and loud V8 throb!
finishing in Kadina. We drove to Pt Hughes and parked on a verge with the ocean on one side and a good stretch of road in full view. Rags couldn't believe the number of "muscle" cars passing. Monaros, Falcons, Thunderbirds, Corvettes, Dodge Phoenix, XU1s, all with their distinctive V8 sounds. These brought back many memories for both of us.

The afternoon was spent mainly packing up and preparing for our trip home. At this stage we are both a little tired and have had enough! This will probably change when we have had a bit of rest. Our plan at this stage is to leave tomorrow and head to Montrose, a small town near Mt Remarkable in the Mt Remarkable National Park. We might even climb Mt Remarkable, but at this stage we are almost ready to head for home.


Additional photos below
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Richman's Enginehouse at MoontaRichman's Enginehouse at Moonta
Richman's Enginehouse at Moonta

This was constructed between 1867 and 1869 using stone from the beach. Richman was the director of the Moonta Mining Company at the time.
Sludge heaps Sludge heaps
Sludge heaps

These had a staircase made of old railway sleepers that enables us to climb to the top to enjoy the view of the surrounding countryside.
Hughes' BoilerhouseHughes' Boilerhouse
Hughes' Boilerhouse

This stonework is all that remains of the boilerhouse in which Cornish boilers provided steam for Hughes Engine.
Classic CavalcadeClassic Cavalcade
Classic Cavalcade

EH Holden with its caravan


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