Thursday Island

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Our day at sea proves interesting as we hear Cultural Historian Nate Randall discuss the history of food practices in this part of the world. He notes that the aborigines were hunter gatherers living in groups of 50-100 with their nomadic movements dependent on food needs. Among interesting practices was their tracking of bees back to the hive (for its honey) after attaching a feather and the annual burning of forests to chase the kangaroos and emus out into the open. Women gathered yams, bush tomatoes, grass seed bread while kids sucked nectar from flowering plants – a natural lollipop. Macadamia Nuts originated in Australia and were exported to Hawaii. January 26, 1888 the fleet arrived with the convicts for settlement so it’s now celebrated as Australia Day. Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management became the settler’s bible and cookbook and later included Kangaroo Tail Soup and Young Iguana Curry. Rabbits were introduced for hunting pleasures and have never stopped breeding, becoming a pest in a decade. “Swagmen”, unsuccessful gold minors, carried a “tuckerbag” for their food. Actor Paul Hogan became famous putting “shrimp on the barbie” when they’re actually called “prawns” here.
Dawn brakes on Ash Wednesday as we enter the Torres Strait, just north of Cape York Peninsula, Queensland, Australia and south of Papua New Guinea. Spanish navigator, Torres, sailed through the strait in 1606 (Australia was originally known as New Holland) but it was Capt Cook who named a neighboring island “Wednesday Island” and its neighbor got the next day nomenclature. Now there are days of the week naming all but Saturday and Sunday for, as the people here say, “we rest then”.
Thursday Island (called “T.I.” locally) has a population of around 3,500 living on an island covering approximately 3.5 square kilometers. Milman and Green Hills, a WWII defence facility, is the highest point at 104 meters above sea level. The location of the Torres made this a vital WWII defence position.
The underground magazines now house displays of military and local history and the breastwork view shows off the town below, neighboring islands, and our ship anchored in the harbor. We tendered over here and enjoy a hot, humid and sunny day visiting with the friendly inhabitants who are related to the Melanesian people of Papua New Guinea, just to the north. T.I., today the administrative and commercial center of the Torres Strait Islands, started out as a fishing village and even today fishing, for prawns, continues since the demise of pearl fishing. Various mollusk shells, including abalone, were used for buttons until plastic ones eliminated the market. My wish to swim in this warm water was limited to wading upon learning of the prevalence of crocodiles and stingers (various sizes of jelly fish). I want to re-board the ship in one piece.
The All Souls Quetta Memorial Cathedral (the smallest cathedral in the world) was built in memory of the “Quetta” shipwreck in 1890 when 133 people were killed when the ship struck an unknown reef. There is also a Japanese Pearl Memorial dedicated to the hundreds to the hundreds of pearl divers who died from decompression sickness.
Of interest is a talk by our reef pilot (a pilot required to assist us as we traverse these waters) of the importance of the Battle of the Coral Sea as we have just crossed thi water prior to our landing in T.I. Getting his perspective on this first battle involving carriers and their aircraft vs battlewagons is interesting since it is also the Australian perspective, which we don’t often get. He discusses the battle as one of luck in the sighting of carriers through the clouds and battle tested Japanese vs well trained US pilots. Its importance lies in the strategic thwarting of Japanese blocking of the passage of maritime shipping through the Torres Strait. While both sides retreated with damaged or sunk ships maritime traffic continued and the Japanese concentrated on the area later highlighted in the Battle of Midway. At that battle the Japanese were unable to equal the American fighting power because of their previous losses in the Coral Sea. He also discusses overall strategies and individual leadership decisions. Of note is the fear the Aussies had of invasion by this most ferocious of foes whereas the Japanese desires related to maritime strategies vs conquering and occupation of this country devoid of their natural resource requirements.
This stop is one of the few where we anchor out and tender into shore. Unfortunately, one of the tender lifting arms develops problem which delays our departure. It is positive to know that they use these lifeboats for routine activities to ensure their functioning in times of stress. Darwin is our next port of call and the last in Australia.

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