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Published: April 8th 2009
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Sunday 5th April - Heading towards Rockhampton - wonderful journey on backroads including gravel roads and saw some awesome wildlife - Lace Monitor Lizard (1m long), 2 Emus, Wallabies, Turtle, Bush Turkeys, Wedge-tailed Eagle, Black Kites, Green Frog (in men’s loo!). On the way we did a detour and went to see Boolbonda Tunnel which was an old railway tunnel chiselled out of the rock in 1833-34 (similar to the one in NZ even with the swallows flying round the entrance). Just as we got there heard a great roaring sound which turned out to be a group of bikers coming through the tunnel on their Harleys.
We travelled across high plateau to a tiny place called Dululu - only a village on a crossroads - and pulled off for the night in the Rest Area - completely silent except for some owls.
Monday 6th April - The joys of free camping is that you’re up and away early - on the road by 8.30am on Route 17 - still a very quiet road. Saw a Dingo loping along the road until he disappeared into the bush! Went through Mt Morgan - an original gold mining community with open cast
Boolbonda Railway Tunnel
Just after the Harley bikers had roared through mining on a huge scale - still active as a mining community - as we left the town there were stunning views over the plains below towards Rockhampton which lies on the Tropic of Capricorn. Rockhampton itself is the Cattle Capital of Australia - a third of the Aussie Beef cattle come within 300km radius of the town. Went along to the stock sale yards but an earlier auction of calves had already finished. Very modern, impressive building and pens.
Our next point is Mackay, travelled on the A1 Bruce Highway which was absolutely empty and straight for mile after mile. Arrived at Mackay at early rush hour so quick visit to Information Centre for info on WhitSunday Islands and then to a small campsite near Calen. Just as we were pulling out the young girl rushed out to tell us about the Pioneer Valley (Finch Hatton to Eungalla) with gorges, rivers and Platypus. Getting late so left to find Boulder Creek site near Calen. Saw the sign for Camerons Point (on the way to Boulder Creek) so turned off. Directions were tricky as the road disappeared on the fold in the map!! 2 hours later we had gone down
Whilst we were lost!
Lost and lonely but still beautiful - the view not us! miles of dirt track, seen no sign of life or campsite (apart from wallabies on the roadside) and felt lost and lonely in the dark. Eventually stumbled on a sealed road with a signpost for Mackay! Finally found a rest area on the roadside - one we’d actually passed 3 hours earlier - slept well!!
Tuesday 7th April - Up early, sun shining, headed for Finch Hatton Gorge. Road soon became a single track gravel road with lots of creeks to ford. Put on our walking boots, looked at the info board, chatted to a fellow Australian traveller and a semi-tame Kookaburra and set off through dense tropical rainforest up the gorge. Hot and humid with lots of lizards - heard the waterfalls before we saw them - arrived at Araleun Cascades but decided to take the longer route up to the ‘Wheel of Fire’ rock pools. Felt like really intrepid explorers as we had to take off boots to walk through fast flowing cascading mountain streams. Then higher up through the forest finally reaching the Wheel of Fire which is a very deep fresh water pool surrounded by ‘fire wheel’ trees. Absolute silence only broken by the sound
Friendly Kookaburra
Looks stuffed but is real of the water cascading into the pool - so its off with the kit and into the pool skinny dipping - fantastic - photos to prove it but not on the Blog!! Absolute bliss - cool and refreshed to just dry in the sun - a true Matchbox Moment. Trekked back to the van taking numerous photos - so many beautiful butterflies that we couldn’t catch on film. Did see a huge lizard which wasn’t at all frightened of us. Back at Finch Hatton decided to carry on further down the valley to explore Eungalla which is at the top of a very steep narrow twisting road (favourite spot for Australian paragliders at the top). Booked in at small campsite right on the edge of the mountain looking down over Pioneer Valley. Set off to look for Platypus at Broken River (the local river). Waited quietly on the bridge over the river and we saw one swimming with the turtles - a much smaller animal than we realised (approx 1ft) - what a privilege to once again discover such lovely creatures in their natural environment. Now dusk and the rainforest is alive with the sound of tree frogs. Perfect end
Tropical rainforest
One metre off the path to a perfect day.
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