Port Douglas and the Great Barrier Reef

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Port Douglas - Bats, Sand Crabs, and Fish - lots of fishes

After a long travel day, we arrived in Port Douglas, north of Cairns in Queensland. We flew from Hobart, with a changeover from Tiger Air to Virgin Blue in Melbourne. Victoria was in its third week of the bushfires, with the death toll now reaching 189. Without TV in Hobart, we had just learned during our travels that they arrested someone suspected of arson causing at least 75 deaths in one area. They withheld the suspect’s name and transported him to Melbourne for holding for his own safety. We later found out that his name was leaked, and several Facebook groups were set up immediately calling for an eye for an eye justice. As we entered the airspace around Melbourne you could see the hazy smoke in the air. We deplaned on the tarmac, walked to the terminal, and you could smell the smoke and ash in the air. Inside the terminal, the windows looked out onto a smoke storm, first an eerie orange in the air, and then a dark grey, as if it would storm, again a storm that was needed. But, nothing came. We were told that Queensland was at least 90% humidity and suffering from flooding along the coast. In contrast, Victoria was about 4% humidity. There just was no moisture in the air.

Virgin Blue offers live tele on the flight, at first for free, and then for a charge after takeoff. Lucky for us, there was a problem with the system, free tele the whole way to Cairns, three plus hours from Melbourne. This is when we first heard of the details of the floods in Queensland. The flooding caused two main roads between Mackay and Townsville to close. Our plans were to spend three nights in Port Douglas, and then drive to Brisbane, stopping at the Whitesundays and Frasier Island on the way. In between Port Douglas and Brisbane are MacKay and Townsville. It was estimated that the road should open up soon, but if there was another rain or flash flood, we could get stuck. It made the flight a little more stressful, as we decided what to do.

When we finally arrived in Port Douglas on the airport shuttle that stopped at every resort it seemed on the hour long drive from the airport, making the drive close to 2 hours, we checked into the Parrot Fish Lodge. The website advertised a pool, lounge area, air conditioning, and a fun party atmosphere with an indoor and outdoor bar, outdoor common kitchen, and bbq area. I think all of these things are true, but you could practically hear the crickets when we arrived and are told “It is the low season.” This was a mantra that was repeated throughout our stay in PD. We were given our choice of three rooms, and choose one with a double bed, and two singles, with air conditioning, a fridge, and a view of the mountains. One of the better rooms thus far, even with out a tele. We were also told that the market closed at 6, and we were left with the restaurants open on the “main road.” PD is quite small, with one road leading into PD and one main road with the shops and restaurants. In addition to having many places closed because it is the low season, we noticed how expensive everything is. We asked at the Parrot Fish for a recommendation for cheap eats, and Sophie, who works at the Parrot Fish, and a visitor, scratch their head. There is a fish and chips shop on the main road they suggested. The best they can do. As we walk the main road, we realized that the cheapest thing on any menu is $25. This is not a budget destination. For our first night, we settle on the “reef” fish, who knows what that is, but it at least sounds fresh, plus chips, tartar, and a beer for $14 a person. Easily, our most expensive meal yet. We stop at the one open bottle shop (liquor store) which is fairly large, but with only a take out window, and bring home an expensive six pack of the local beer - XXXX - and a cheap 2L box of dry white Australian wine for only $9.99. The best deal we found, so far.

All Fun and No Work . . .

When we awoke in the morning, we planned a quiet day of exploring PD, hanging by the pool, and figuring out what were going to do for the 7 days after PD. We could not get a clear answer regarding the road closures south of us, but after the bushfire incident in Mebourne, we thought is best to stay clear. We decided to spend an extra two nights in PD, and then fly to Brisbane. We found last minute flights for less than $100 USD per person. We arranged a rental car at the airport and decided to drive north to Hervey Bay, near Frasier Island, with a plan to stay there for four nights. We would forego the trip sailing to the Whitesundays. Bummer. We walked to Avis to grab a car for two days in PD, and to alter our reservation for Brisbane. We hit the market to stock up on food. We arranged our Great Barrier Reef adventure for the next day. A lot accomplished that morning. Who said that traveling is all fun?

Slowing Down

The Parrot Fish Lodge has a Jimmy Buffet Margaritaville feel to it. A tropical pool with large wood deck. All of the paint is bright yellow and blue, including our room - yellow walls and bright blue painted floors, made to look like the sea. There is an outdoor tv room, complete with dengue filled mosquitos, and the internet “lounge” is outside too. We finally started to relax by hanging out near the pool for a couple hours. We were thoroughly entertained during most of it by Tess, the house dog, a 7 month old spaniel puppy. She jumped right into the pool swimming and playing catch with a floating ball for at least an hour. I don’t have nearly that much energy, since she cannot rest by standing on the bottom of the pool. Her favorite toys are flip flops, both hers, and flip flops she steals - including mine. She ran off and it took Eric and me, along with another traveler to track it down. I hid them from that point on.

Keeping with our errands themed day, we did our first load of official laundry, in a laundry machine. We really only have about one load full of clothes with us, so we tossed it all in. Now, we do laundry at home. We are not morons. I have been doing my own laundry since I was 12 (okay, Eric does my laundry now). Eric has an old red t-shirt. It is starting to fade, and is getting kind of ratty. It has been washed at least 2 dozen times before. Do you see where this is going? I asked Eric if we should wash it separate, and he says, no, it is so old. So, when I left the pool area to change the laundry, what do you think I found? Pink socks, pink boxers, 3 pink t-shirts! Most of our darker clothes, including our capris and better quality t-shirts were spared. Well, we knew we would be tossing socks and t-shirts along the way, we just did not know it would be this soon. I kept the t-shirts, which had managed to take on a nice peachy glow, but we tossed our pink socks. Live and learn.

After the pool, we spent a decent amount of time napping and reading. Sophie, from the Parrot Fish, told us there is a deal at a bar on the main road called Rattle and Hum. They have a happy hour from 10-11pm with AUD $8 jugs of beer. A jug is smaller than a pitcher in the US, we think, at 1140ml. And that is about USD $6, so that is easily the best deal on beer on the entire continent! Even better, because we can’t stay up past 10, there is a perfectly timed happy hour from 5-6pm. It was our first night (or late afternoon) out at a bar since before we left the States. And, with a giant AUD $6 order of potato wedges with sour cream and Thai chili sauce - dinner was served. After Rattle and Hum, we headed back to Parrot Fish, but took a detour to watch the sunset on the beach. As soon as we walked out onto the beach, with the pinkish hue to the sky, and the slow, mechanical sound of the waves, we both agreed - we were beginning to be at peace. Being in a small town, quiet, because of the low season, with only a few people on the beach, and watching the sunset from the beach just did it for us. The lush green mountains off in the distance, down the four mile beach (shouldn’t that be in kilometers?), with palm trees lining the beach, it was breathtaking. Part of the view was due to the way Port Douglas has maintained its pristine nature of the beach. It is protected property, with no beach front development. The main road does not even have a single beach front restaurant or hotel. We hoped to have many more days like this before us, particularly with Thailand, Indonesia, and Malaysia on our itinerary.

Hostile Environment

On the way home, we found that the Parrot Fish is two doors down from the Bat Cave. It was a haven for hundreds of bats that swarmed over us just after dark. I have to admit, I was a little freaked out, but I survived. I will also use my slight fear of bats to talk about why PD is in its low season during the Australian summer. First, it is hot and muggy. Northern Queensland has two seasons - the Wet and Dry. February is the wet, which brings out the humidity and the marine stingers. Marine Stingers and Box Jellyfish crowd the beaches. Along Four Mile Beach, there is one small area cordoned off for swimming. It is not because of lack of lifeguards. They have large white inflatable tubes with heavy netting beneath, and an even heavier chain at the bottom, which is placed on the beach, and into the water. During low tide, there is only about 30 feet or so of water that is swimmable. During high tide, the area extends further out. Near the beach are jugs of blue vinegar in case of sting. The Marine Stingers are the worst because they are extremely tiny, with three of them fitting on the head of a coin. We knew about the box jellyfish going in, so we knew to book a place with a pool. It was just interesting to see how they effectuate it. The beach also had tons of little tiny sand crabs. They burrow holes into the sand by kicking out little sand pellets. The sand pellets create interesting designs all over the beach. At first, I could not step on them. I was afraid I would step on a crab, and the little pellets felt so weird under the feet, like I was stepping on rabbit pellets. Eric told me to suck it up, so I eventually was able to step on the sand pellets, but I still was on constant lookout for the little crabs.

Finally . . . the Reef

In some respects, I do feel like we travelled all the way to Australia solely to go to the Great Barrier Reef. It is like a pilgrimage for travelers. We chose the Haba company, a bright yellow and blue ship, matching not only the Parrot Fish Lodge, but Eric’s outfit for the day. We cruised for a little over an hour before hitting the North Opal Reef, on the outer edge of the reef. We spotted a few dolphins along the way. We made two stops, each for about two hours, with lunch in between. It was amazingly calm. We were each issued a lovely Smurf blue synthetic suit, in part to protect us from those pesky marine stingers, and in part so we did not need to lube up with suntan lotion, that would immediately slither off and destroy the reef. The suits were head to toe, including little mittens and a hood. We did not need to use the hood, but they were quite attractive. I swear. They also issued us swimming noodles - the best invention - allowing us to just float and do nothing. Awesome.

The snorkel itself was brilliant. We have been in Jamaica and Puerto Rico, but they pale in comparison to this. The coral itself was stunning, with deep yellows, greens, and blues. The fish were everywhere. The last few times I went snorkeling, I found myself sticking my hands in front of me to make sure no fish came near me. Here, I did not have a choice. We continuously swam through schools of fish. We saw giant clams, sea cucumbers, and marine rays. The rays were tough to see because they hide in the sand on the bottom and would rustle out of the sand occasionally, floating along the bottom. We saw fish of every shape and size. Tiny little minnows hovered just under the water’s surface - thousands of them it seemed. We also saw a school of about 12 cuttlefish. The cuttlefish change their color based on their surroundings, lighter colored close to the sand and coral, and darker in the water. These were dark blue, with almost transparent skirts around their sides. Their face was pointed with large eyes. They swam in an armada format, all facing the same direction, lined up, and ready to attack. I swear they were looking right at me. I know they have ink in them, like a squid, so I was nervous they would attack and spray their ink. I also had no idea how far I was from them (a feeling of “objects in mirror are closer than they appear”). Then, I became addicted, and must have spent close to a half hour just observing them. The experience was totally worth the 15 hour flight from LAX.

Taking it even slower

For our last two nights in PD, we opted for a little bit of luxury and checked in to the Sheraton Mirage on cash and points. There was such a great deal because the hotel was only at 15-20%!c(MISSING)apacity. We felt like we had the place to ourselves. The Sheraton was on Four Mile Beach, but had trees between the beach and the pool area. We were drawn to the Sheraton due to the lagoon pools. I have never seen so many pools in one location, including a faux beach that had a sand bottom which merged into a regular pool. And, they had noodles! Again, a wondrous invention. So, we spent most of our remaining two days in PD swimming in the lagoons, lazing around on a noodle. We took another sunset walk on the beach, followed with a dusk dip in the lagoon, where we experienced another close encounter with the bats. Not my favorite thing. We took one short trip to Mossman Gorge, at the tip of Daintree Rainforest, specifically to check out a cold water swimming hole - so refreshing after the bath water of the beach and the lagoon pools. We had lunch at Wonga Beach, just north of Mossman Gorge. Nothing there at all, just a side street down to an alley, leading to the beach. We made our Nutella sandwiches and some fruit before taking Tom Traveler for a swim in the beach - he was protected from the Marine Stingers. Aside from that, nothing, for a few days straight.

Overall, I am glad we stayed in PD for the extra couple nights to really relax, nap, swim, and basically do nothing. We are headed next to Hervey Bay and Fraser Island, before our last night in Brisbane and off to the land of the Kiwis.

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Photos

Four Mile Beach
This is the small swimming area safe from the Marine Stingers.

The Reef
And this picture certainly does not do it justice.

Smurf Suit
I can't believe I am sharing this image on the internet.

Mossman Gorge
Crossing the Suspension Bridge

Swimming with the fishes
The water was so clear you could easily see who or what was swimming next to you. Here, jungle perch.

Finally Slowing Down
And cooling off.

Wonga Beach
All alone

Tom Traveler
At Wonga Beach - He can withstand the danger of the stingers

Comments

[Greg]

Mossman Swimming Hole
I relaxed just looking at the photos. Glad you guys are having a good time.