'The Ringer'

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Friday 23rd September – and we set off for Longreach, our next destination. We had heard that like Winton it was also very busy so we had booked ahead to ensure we had a space. Actually we had booked another “en suite” facility as they seemed reasonably priced and we like the independence that they provide. In a way, we regretted making the booking as we would have liked another day or so in Winton. For a small outback town, they really knew how to organise a good time and it was good to see it so well supported. The journey of about 180 kilometers was easy and, without much traffic about, we were able to “cruise” at a slower speed than normal. Occasionally a road-train or a faster moving car and caravan would creep by but generally it was easy going. We spotted plenty of signs for “The Dinosaur Trail” but they entailed a lot of gravel road journeys. Like opals, it’s truly big business in this area and attracts a lot of tourists. We passed by Crawford Creek - a brilliant looking rest area which, had it not been so early in our journey, would have been an ideal place for a tea break or even an overnight stop. So we pressed on until we reached Morella – another rest area but not nearly as nice. We arrived in Longreach quite early - we’ve not been here before but it is one of the “must do” places when touring Aus. It is the home of the very famous Stockman’s Hall of Fame which, apparently, is a brilliant presentation of the pioneering history of outback Australia and a spectacular tribute to the people who shaped life in the outback. In addition, Longreach boasts a founder’s museum for the Queensland and Northern Territories Aerial Services more commonly known as Qantas. Originally inaugurated in Winton in 1921, it was moved to Longreach where Australia’s first purpose built airstrip was constructed. Driving into Longreach, we weren’t going to miss the Qantas museum as a huge Boeing 747 – a jumbo jet – dominates the landscape.

We found the Discovery Caravan Park easily enough and a checked into our “en suite” site. It is excellent – virtually brand new - but the park is so big and we were allocated the last but one site – miles away!! We might have to use the car to get to the swimming pool!!! A strong breeze was blowing when we were setting up which made things a little tricky. Graham decided to peg down the awning and to erect a small tarpaulin to shelter us from the breeze and the sun but he struggled to drive the pegs into the ground. Why he thinks bad language helps in situations like this I don’t know but eventually, with the air blue, he succeeded and our quiet little corner took on a very pleasant feel. The shade from the tarpaulin is essential as today has been the hottest we have encountered so far – 34 degrees (and much hotter in the caravan). After lunch we nipped into town to visit the Information Centre and to top up with a bit of shopping. The afternoon just got hotter and hotter and Graham managed a dip in the pool to cool off. By the time I got there it had been inundated with about 20 kids most of whom seemed intent on ‘bombing’ and thrashing about so a swim was out of the question. Even a soak wasn’t really feasible as the kids just jumped and splashed everywhere. Most parks restrict boisterous behaviour – No Running, No Jumping, No Bombing etc etc – but this one had no such restrictions so I gave it a miss. I went back to the caravan and cooled off with a cold shower – still in my bathers!! – Graham thought I was mad but it was lovely.

Longreach boasts river cruises so, late afternoon, we drove just a little way out of town to where river-side access was signed. We knew that a cruise was taking place as we’d seen a coach picking people up from the caravan park to go on it but we couldn’t find where it was happening. The only riverside we found was a bit grim so we drove back into town and found The Showgrounds. There’s a camp-drafting competition happening over the next few days and even though it was by now about 6:00pm there was still plenty of activity going on. We drove past the Qantas Museum and into the grounds of the Stockman’s Hall of Fame. The centre was closed but we were able to drive around the grounds and to see some of the many sculptures there - it was all very impressive. We noticed a Botanic Walk which linked Stockman’s with the town centre about 2 kilometers away and strolled along a bit of it before the light faded. Back at the caravan we settled into our quiet little corner taking full advantage of our “en suite” – along with a few more cute frogs that seem to thrive in the steamy atmosphere of a shower room in this part of the world!

Saturday 24th September and we just had one thing on our agenda today – The Stockman’s Hall of Fame. We didn’t get going very early – it was after 10:00am when we got there and the place was buzzing. From the outside it looks a splendid building and from the inside it is even more impressive. There are five levels of displays detailing the development of Australia from the Discovery – even before the first visits by Europeans – through the Pioneering stages, the Opening Up of the outback by pastoralists, the affects this had on the aboriginal communities, right up to modern day farming practices including the introduction of road-trains for the movement of cattle. At 11:00am everyone trooped to a one hour outdoor display of horsemanship attempting to demonstrate the involvement of animals in old and modern farming methods, though it included other animals – dogs, a camel and some bullocks. The fellow tried hard to include humour in his presentation but he wasn’t entirely successful. To compensate, his skills on horseback and his ability to get the animals to demonstrate how they can be used positively to assist in farming were brilliant. It finished with him harnessing up eight bullocks, whilst reciting a lengthy poem which he got word perfect, using the bullocks to collect a huge log and them using them again to load the log onto an old wagon. It was very clever and finished the show off on a “high”.

Back in the main building we had a bit of lunch and then continued our tour. The place was full of fascinating facts and information, sometimes in the form of touch-screen technology. There were short film presentations and one in a posh theatre that lasted about 15 minutes which was all about the splendour of the outback. One of the features throughout the displays were personality boards under the heading of Unsung Heroes – people who have quietly made a significant contribution to outback life from the earliest times until the present day. Everything was so splendidly done and even, though Longreach is a long way off the main tourist routes, we would both heartily recommend a visit to The Stockman’s Hall of Fame. We didn’t have the same desire to visit the Qantas museum although that, too, looked very impressive. We could easily see the huge Boeing 747 from the road (it’s virtually opposite the Stockman’s display) and also the smaller 707 which is dwarfed by the larger plane. If you’re into aeronautical history then I’m sure it’s well worth a visit. But after our Stockman’s visit we just drifted back into town for a bit more shopping and to check the prices of fuel at the three main petrol stations. Alas, they’re all the same and a fair bit dearer than at Winton – why didn’t we fill up there? Back at the caravan park we noticed that the pool was empty. Graham went to check as he couldn’t believe it – the weather was blisteringly hot and no-one fancied a dip? Sure enough, he found a sign saying “Closed For Maintenance” – how disappointing. Even Graham had a cold shower today – it was the only way to cool down! Later in the evening the nearby restaurant seemed to be quite busy and we were tempted but I had some things that needed cooking and which will last for two days so we probably won’t use it on this visit.

On Sunday 25th September the day seemed to start already blisteringly hot. The night was reasonably comfortable but neither the car nor the caravan has any shade so things heat up rapidly. We had it in mind to visit Ilfracombe today which is just 27 kilometers away. We don’t know much about the place except that, unlike Ilfracombe back home, it’s a hell of a long way from the coast. It also boasts a “Machinery Mile” which they reckon is one of the longest museums in the world. We were in no hurry as we lazily stirred ourselves - I managed to do a bit more washing and we were ready to leave at about 10:30. It didn’t take long to get there and the first thing you notice on approach is the long line of old fashioned machinery stretching into the distance. It is a fascinating collection of just about every bit of heavy metal needed to establish a town, make a sheep station and keep the roads passable. It ranges from drilling rigs, road graders, fire-ploughs, no end of tractors, steam engines, pumps – you name it, they’ve got it, all interspersed with buildings containing information about them all. For a very small town like Ilfracombe it’s a pretty special collection - well done to them. Whilst having a late morning cuppa we noticed a community swimming pool and since the one at the caravan park seems to be closed more than its open, Graham went to see how much it was to go in. The beautiful 25 meter pool alongside which is a natural hot-spring spa was virtually empty but Graham recognised a couple of fellow travellers we had encountered a month or two back. They live their lives “on the road” and are well versed as to what’s available and where. They said the pool was free – open to anyone and everyone every day and we cursed ourselves, not for the first time, for not keeping a set of bathers and towels in the car. The pool looked fantastic and would have been an ideal way to cool down on yet another blisteringly hot day. We contemplated going back to the caravan for some lunch and then driving back to Ilfracombe for a dip - and that’s exactly what we did.

We got back to the pool at about 2:30pm and expected it to be busy – certainly busier than we had seen in the morning - but no! There were even less people there now and those that were there were concentrating on the spa. So for a good half an hour we had this beautiful pool to ourselves. We were then joined by another couple we had met only a couple of days ago in Winton. They were staying at the Ilfracombe Caravan Park because they also knew about the availability of the pool and also that the Ilfracombe Caravan Park is much cheaper than Longreach with a much nicer atmosphere. We’re actually happy with our “en suite” at Longreach but with the fiasco over their pools I think we would have enjoyed a short stay at Ilfracombe. We enjoyed our swim so much that we have it in mind to call in again in the morning as we make our way towards Barcaldine – it’s too good an opportunity to resist. On our way back to Longreach we called in at the Qantas Founders Museum, not to do a tour but just to look around their shop and to buy a couple of ice-creams. We parked right by the Boeing 747 and their museum looked a fascinating place. Their shop and café were equally fascinating and it was easy to spend some money!! There were a few things I had my eye on to buy but then I realised that I had come out without my purse and so only had a limited amount of cash on me – blow! Never mind, I thought that perhaps we could pop in on our way by in the morning.

Back at the caravan, we decided that as the caravan park bar/restaurant was only a matter of a few yards away we should take advantage of it and have some supper there. We wandered over at about 6.30 and had a couple of nice meals, not with the usual chips but with mashed potatoes and veggies. Later on in the evening, after we were back in the caravan, we could hear some loud singing coming from the bar so Graham went to investigate and found out that a karaoke session was going on. It didn’t go on too late though and our last night in our little quiet corner with our very nice “en suite” facilities was very satisfactory.

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Photos

'The Ringer' - the most skilled of stockmen
at the entrance to the Stockmans Hall of Fame

We thought this brolga was a tame one
but no - apparently it's wild but a regular visitor to the caravan park

'Walking Together'
Two girls, one of indigenous and one of non indigenous heritage are depicted walking together as friends

The show began with some clever horsemanship
but also some very naff jokes!

and then are set up to haul it on to the cart
it was fascinating for us to watch but the children at the front were more interested in a tiny puppy being carried around by the daughter of the showman!

Self portrait of Hugh Sawrey
founder of the Hall of Fame. His prolific output of paintings and drawings of the Australian outback and its people is important in the conservation of the history of those times