QAA Line (Simpson Desert) and Birdsville, QLD

---

We exited the Hay River track onto massive salt pans that were a bit weird to look at - very white amongst the red of the sand and green/grey of the trees and bushes. After a short time we hit the QAA line, which is one of the main tracks across the Simpson Desert. So after five days of travelling South we took a 90 degree turn to the East.

This was some awesome driving up and over the dunes. There were a few that we had to back down and try a few times - mostly because my stoopid traction control kept turning on automatically which kills the wheel spin that is sometimes needed to get over those last few ruts. The pictures that we have do not do justice to how big, long and rutted out some of these dunes were. In the end it was a case of 4WD high range, 2nd gear and give her heaps that got us over them all.

We got to the Eyre Creek crossing late in the afternoon to find it flooded so we took a detour and crossed an easier spot to set up camp on grass. Yes, grass!!! Well, it was actually a few different types of weeds but it was green and soft and not sand/dirt. A welcome change. The flies were still around though. Lots and lots and lots. A damn nuisance before they bugger off as evening hits. We found out at camp the next morning that two litres of UHT milk, a kilo of flour and a pack of cous cous had all exploded in one of our food containers - shit everywhere!!! Took me and Suz ages to clean it up. A lot of cans lost their labels so things will be interesting when we open them. Mystery bags.

The next day we headed toward Birdsville via Big Red - a rather large sand dune that is known as a 4WD mecca of sorts as people try to get their trucks up the tracks that increase in difficulty. We got up the standard track with the trailer on the first attempt so I was rather happy to leave it at that. Phil and Tony tried the more adventurous tracks (no trailers) with moderate success.

Into Birdsville and the caravan park. Had an interesting chat with the park manager (not for this forum) and headed off for a curried camel pie at the bakery. But it was closed. Boo hiss. Another interesting story behind that!

After a shower the older lads headed up to the pub for a beer and to book in for dinner the next night. No booking required as it is Slow Cooked Saturday tomorrow night with enough food for the whole town. Sounds good.

We went to Big Red to watch the sunset and have a bit of a play. I managed to get the Paj up all four tracks on the first go so I had the chest puffed out a bit. Phil did pretty good in the Patrol as well, although he did get stuck on top of Big Red turning around. Pahahahahaha. I gave my two kids a bit of a driving lesson and they both managed to get up the standard track in low-range. A proud Papa moment. The sunset was pretty spectacular. Suz and Phil did their struggling photography artist best, shooting all sorts of things across the desert. Met some other tourists and had a good chat about all things Australian.

Tomorrow will see some minor repairs, homework for the kids, clean the fridge and relax a little more than usual. Oh, and wash the car at the free car wash that uses water from the Great Artesian Bore - comes out of the ground at 98 degrees Celsius. Used to power the town using some sort of geo-thermal energy but they’ve gone to diesel now.

---