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Published: September 13th 2011
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We only planned to spend a few days at Atherton, but ended up staying a week. We left yesterday, but I think we were all a little reluctant to move on, as it took us a whole day to drive 70kms! We kept making unscheduled stops: first to a secondhand book dealer with a home Paul would love to live in; then to do a river walk for a last chance to spot a tree kangaroo (which, alas, we did not, but we did watch two platypus foraging for food, which was beautiful); and then, a last minute duck into Mt Hypipamee National Park to see a 120-metre deep crater which was created when gas blasted a vent hole through solid granite. A pool of still water covered in green duck weed was too inviting for the boys to resist hurling rocks. And it was here that we finally, and very unexpectedly, came across our first cassowary. What a beautiful creature! Much more exciting to see in real life than we anticipated: he was larger, more graceful, and his colours more vibrant than we expected. He really did look like something from the dinosaur era (reminiscent of a parasauralophus perhaps?). Everywhere
there are signs warning of the dangers of aggravating a cassowary, and what to do if charged by one - mainly, to stand still, and if the cassowary continues to approach, put something between you and it. Well, a quickly learnt that some people take these hints seriously, even if it means putting someone else’s life at risk! This particular cassowary suddenly became impatient with the cameras invading its territory, and started to charge (for a big creature, it moves very quickly). A guy in front of me called out that it was charging, and then grabbed me quite firmly, but instead of pushing me out of danger’s way, shoved me in front of him, and hence, had something between him and the cassowary. Fortunately, the cassowary lost interest in us and turned back to continue feeding, but he did get quite close! The boys said I seemed to take it all rather calmly!
As it was by now quite late, we found a free camp spot a little way down the road, and spent the night there. It was a lovely spot by a river, and we happened to pull up next to a family from Canberra who
had just travelled through the Top End. It was great to get some more tips, while Oliver and William were very excited to discover two boys who were keen to play soccer.
The past week has also been a surprisingly social week, as we managed to catch up with the Baths, a family with children similar ages to ours who are also travelling around Australia. Our paths crossed in Esperance - they were travelling north, we east. It was great to hear their stories (particularly as they have just come from where we are about to go to) and the kids got on really well. We spent a lovely afternoon at Lake Eacham, an extinct volcanic crater lake which is 80m deep. Oliver and Tyson (the Bath’s oldest boy) went around the whole lake in a kayak by themselves, and then towed some of the other boys behind them on a tyre. We were very sad to say goodbye to them!
At the caravan park, we met another couple, Mathias and Kathy, with their two-year-old son.They are leaving Australia to move to Germany (Mathias is German, Kathy English) and were taking six weeks out to travel around Queensland.
They were living in a tent, which I thought was quite brave, particularly as Kathy is seven months pregnant. It made me appreciate my caravan all the more! Their little boy Noah also thought our caravan (and the boys’ lego collection) was very impressive, and loved playing with his new best friends. He was not happy to say goodbye! Mathias, like Paul, loves the didgeridoo and had also bought one during his travels, so the two had a few jamming sessions together.
Aside from the socialising, we spent some time exploring what really is a beautiful corner of the world. The Atherton Tablelands has a lot to offer: picturesque waterfalls, rain forests, farms (dairy, sugar cane, corn, strawberries and even macadamia nuts and peanuts), 500-year-old strangler fig trees... Atherton is also home to The Crystal Caves, the main drawcard here as far as the boys are concerned, and again, another example of an activity we chose because of the boys, but from which I think the adults derived as much pleasure. Atherton is home to the world’s biggest geode, an amethyst geode that stands well over three metres tall and weighs more than 2,5 tonnes. This ‘Empress of Uruguay’
is truly remarkable, and, just like the lantern collection in Lightning Ridge, it is such a treat to find something like this not in a museum, but in a small, insignificant town like Atherton. I must admit, it is the first time I can ever say that I felt energy from a crystal, but I really felt the Empress! You can check her out at www.crystalcaves.com.au as I don’t think my photo does her any justice! The boys also cracked their own 44-million-year-old geodes, and I needn’t add that their crystal and gem collection has increased quite substantially.
Our book collection has also expanded quite substantially, when we discovered a massive book sale in one of the neighbouring towns. We really had to show tremendous restraint not to buy lots and lots of books, as there were some seriously good book dealers there. I am sure I can feel Cazza straining under the weight of our respective collections. Saturday was an interesting day as we stumbled across the annual Slim Dusty tribute festival. What a treat! I have taken some photos of some of the characters we met, all big, big fans of this Aussie country music icon. I
never knew that Slim Dusty was the first singer in the world to have his voice beamed to earth from space when astronauts played Slim’‘s recording of Waltzing Matilda from the space shuttle Columbia back in 1983. I am learning something new every day! We bought one of his CDs back when we were crossing the Nullarbor, but I am afraid we still prefer John Denver and Roger Whittaker!
Otherwise, there is not much more to add. I will include photos too of our few days at Cape Tribulation. We had a lovely, though very wet, few days there. I think for us to truly appreciate the Daintree Forest - the oldest rainforest in the world, with plants representing all stages of the past 400 million years of evolution - one really needs to immerse oneself in the forest: to have the time to simply sit in amongst the trees, listen and feel, to try and appreciate just how incredibly ancient this part of the world is. With three children in tow, Paul and I were not granted this opportunity, but it was a humbling experience none-the-less to walk through the rainforests and mangroves (at least, until the midges
found me again - I wonder if they also existed millions of years ago to harass the megafauna of yesteryear?). I nearly forgot, on the way to Cape Tribulation we stopped to have lunch at Wallaman Falls, a beautiful spot where the boys (and even I) went swimming.
Paul has also started a relatively solitary pursuit: watching the World Cup. No one, and I mean no one, seems to show any interest at all in rugby. We did manage to find a publican in Atherton who was happy to put the rugby on for him, and on Sunday, to offer moral support, we all joined Paul at the pub to watch South Africa versus Wales. Paul was very exhausted by the end of the game. Who knows whether he will see the next game.
So, now we have started on our journey west. I am not sure how good our internet connection will be, but I will keep blogging where I can. Until the next post, stay well!
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Jeanette and Tom
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Trees beautiful Trees
Thank you once again for the interesting blog. Most of all, I just love all the tall trees and the feel of the forest which you capture so well. William looks totally in love with his collection! Paul we did not have the courage to watch the first rugby game until after the game was over. Funny! It just feels as if something is missing, maybe it's Jake White! Lots of love, and missing you all. Jeanette