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Published: July 18th 2008
Arriving at Darwin International at 1am nearly two weeks ago, I slept for 5 hours on an airport couch and watched the red sunrise before taking a taxi into the city.
Darwin is not at all what I expected. Despite being the 'capital' of the Northern Territory, the city centre is quite small and relatively low-rise. It was quiet to start with, but as the day progressed hundreds of backpackers crawled out of the shade and into the bars.
I had become so used to the New Zealand winter that I didn't bother booking ahead but we're in the peak season here and I really had trouble finding a hostel. There was one point where I was considering sleeping in the park, but things worked out eventually.
Upon finding long-term accommodation at a really laid back hostel called Frogs Hollow, where I was able to work every now and then for my bed and breakfast, I set out to look for profitable work.
This past couple of weeks has been very chaotic, with my plans changing pretty much every day (should I stay here? Look for work elsewhere? Bar/restaurant work, pearl farming, fruit picking or something else?).
I was really keen
to do something productive but many places are hesitant about hiring backpackers, for good reason - most of the time they don't stay around longer than a few weeks.
There is lots to do in Darwin. There are numerous outdoor markets held weekly in the suburbs, and at sunset on nearby Mindil Beach. Filled with cheap vegetable stalls, alternative shops and all manner of arts, clothes stands and eateries. There are so many parties and events going on in town and varied live music. I could see why a lot of backpackers decide to stay for a while.
The problem is that it's hard to live here and not spend money. Although there is plenty to do for free, and food is fairly cheap compared to New Zealand there is still a lot of pressure to spend, spend, spend.
Fortunately for me I finally managed to find a job that not only really interests me but allows me to save a lot of money too and get some great work experience. I'm going to be working as a tour guide for a hotel about 2 hours away, leading a crocodile river tour. Not only do I get to
talk to an interested audience about the wildlife, I also get to drive a boat. I start almost immediately after a two day first aid course this weekend.
My thinking is that it will be much harder to spend my earnings at a place so remote. It's a big change to my plans as they've made me commit until November, but I will hopefully have more than enough money to travel down the west coast before I leave for home.
In between looking for work I have been trying to see as much of the area as I can. The high turnover of backpackers here means that there are always new friends around who are keen to wander the city and see the sights.
A new reptile centre called Crocosaurus Cove opened up in town this week and I checked it out this morning. It was really well laid-out and run by keen biologists. Along with the usual viewing tanks and aquariums there was the chance to almost swim with a huge 5.2m long saltwater crocodile. The pool is divided from the croc tank by a thick perspex screen. It was still quite special though.
I rented
Darwin's deckchair cinema
The cinema experience with stars, bats and possums.out a car on Wednesday with a few friends from the hostel and drove 2 hours to Litchfield National Park, a huge area of flood plain interrupted by red sandstone plateaux, entered by a single road and quite busy with peak-season tourists (ourselves included of course). We spent most of the day swimming in the cleaner-than-clean waterfall plunge pools, and walking through the pockets of rainforest that nestle in sheltered ravines.
I still haven't been to Kakadu National Park, the main attraction of the Top End, but where I'll be working is right on the border so hopefully I should have lots of time to really get to know the place.
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Jessica Olinsson
non-member comment
I found your blog
Hi Ben now I have found your blog and it is fun to read what you are writing. I will continue to read it when I get back home and dream back to australia. Yes it is right, I am leaving now on the 28/7 and flying to Kuala Lumpur where I will spend one week before I am go home to Sweden. If feel sad to leave Australia after so long but I have my plans on returning one day. You will have to wright a little about how your job goes, I saw Plucker ( the man I worked for) cut up a crocodile ones. He was teaching someone how to do it properly, he is a butcher to profession you see. I hope you will have a good time until you leave yours sincerely Jessica