Climbing the Grand Teton


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Published: July 15th 2009
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The Middle Teton at DawnThe Middle Teton at DawnThe Middle Teton at Dawn

The middle teton at dawn as seen from half way up the climbing route on the Grand Teton
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This trip was actually a while ago, but I wanted to practice writing a blog entry and this trip had a few good stories and great photos.

I climbed the Grand Teton with my friend Kyle last summer. It was great trip with plenty of excitement and scenery. We went with both our dads and warmed up with 50 mile hike around the Teton Range, staring at the Grand from all sides. We climbed the Owen Spalding route, which is a technically moderate mounatineering and rock climbing route. The climbing itself is easy as we climbed entirely without proper (but unsupportive and uncomfortable) rock climbing shoes. We broke the trip into two days to make it a little easier. Because of campsite reservations, we only managed to reserve a campsite a few hours up the trail, so it was only slightly better than making it a single day push.

The morning started off fine with a cold 2AM start. Climbers typically start extermely early so that they can be at the summitt early before the afternoon thunderstorms and lightning roll in. We were hiking early, but got lost at 4Am following a foot trail that dissapeared
Climbing the Grand TetonClimbing the Grand TetonClimbing the Grand Teton

The Owen Chimney.
into a field of boulders. The GPS didn't help me becuase we were so sure the trail we were following was the right one. We eventually waited long enough to find headlights bobbing in the distance and ran after them.


The sun started rising just as we hit the technical section and were tying in. The sunrise was really something amazing because you could stare over the plains of Wyoming. I got a great photo of the sun rising over the Middle Teton taken from maybe 11,000 ft on the Grand Teton

We got lost a second time trying to find Owen's Chimney. Instead we went a sizeable distance past it and tried and climbed a full pitch inside a crappy chimney full of scree and gravel which poured down on Kyle while I was climbing. We rappelled the pitch and backtracked to the correct place. It was pretty uneventful after that, just a fun and long climb over easy terrain. The climbing was easy enough to forget that you're working hard and really enjoy scrambling up a really classic peak. Kyle was pretty cold from his sweat soaked shirt in the wind and tired from the
The Shadow of the Grand TetonThe Shadow of the Grand TetonThe Shadow of the Grand Teton

The Grand Teton throws a huge shadow at sunset the night before the climb.
2AM wake up.


Despite getting hopelessly lost twice we still managed to make good time thanks to fast climbing and good teamwork. We partnered up with a pair from California and tied our ropes together to make much faster 200' rappels. The pair from California pair were the only people we met on the summitt, so it was not crowded. I snapped a photo of the USGS summitt marker which strangely has no elevation marked on it. I bought a new $100 pocket camera with manual settings just for taking on climbing trips where they would get destroyed. These photos are pretty good for a cheap camera.

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Grand Teton USGS summit markerGrand Teton USGS summit marker
Grand Teton USGS summit marker

For some reason it doesn't even have the elevation written on it.
Sleepy BelayerSleepy Belayer
Sleepy Belayer

Kyle feeling the drowsy at dawn because he has been climbing since 2AM
The Grand and Middle TetonThe Grand and Middle Teton
The Grand and Middle Teton

From the back side of the Teton Range, accessed via the Targhee National Forest.
Hiking in the TetonsHiking in the Tetons
Hiking in the Tetons

The Teton range visible in the background a days walk away.
Climbing gear for the Grand TetonClimbing gear for the Grand Teton
Climbing gear for the Grand Teton

This is pretty much the rack of gear I took for the Grand Teton. In retrospect the mid size cams were never used and a large handful of nuts would have done the job just fine.


Tot: 0.09s; Tpl: 0.01s; cc: 15; qc: 49; dbt: 0.0449s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.1mb