Olympic Peninsula/Olympic National Park Area

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Entry 24: Olympic Peninsula, Washington: Camping and Hiking
Thursday, August 19th - Monday, August 23rd

Go West, Young Men...
Having felt good by catching up the blog with the various Seattle musings, I physically and mentally packed the computer, turning my attention to bigger things: Packing and organizing the camping stuff for a Thurs. - Mon. trip to the Olympic Peninsula. Scott had secured the time off work, even at the risk of missing a few meetings in which he might be asked to speak. Nice host! But at the same time, who knows when we’ll see each other again, especially under such favorable circumstances. In addition, last week’s overnight hike in the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest had reminded him of his camping past and early-90s past of working within nature (he has a Zoology degree from U.G.A., and has spent 4 years working various State Forest jobs and bird inventory internships). The Glacier Basin Trail had been satisfying and challenging, and we were looking to repeat the nature experience, but for 4 days instead of just 2.
Scott was a trouper in adapting to my somewhat relaxed planning within the huge Olympic Peninsula. Of course, with Sophie the dog, the Olympic National Park’s pavement was the only legal place in which Sophie could walk. So, this keeps the various National Forests which surround the almost 1 million acres of National Park our only option. However, according to the road atlas, almost the entire Park is surrounded by the Olympic National Forest, with the famous Hwy. 101 that makes 200-mile loop around the entire Peninsula. A cursory drive around the Peninsula, with at least one overnight hike, would be a great way to spend the time.

So Hard to Get Outta' Town...

Thursday morning rolled around, but alas, we did not. Stick two former college roommates together, and the old habits quickly return. Getting up around 10 a.m., in addition to the regular home routines, we still had to pack for the trip, plus pick up some dog food for Sophie and stop by REI (the original one) for Scott to further his future camping comfort level by the purchasing of some long underwear and a stuff sack for his sleeping bag.
Although all of my possessions will fit in the back of the pick-up truck, I don’t need to take everything (electronics, all my clothes, etc.), so, as a visual packer, I set about spreading all of my possessions across Scott’s living room, slowing picking up each item, staring at it, and trying to picture the situation in which the object may/may not be used/needed. I packed a bin’s worth of clothes (layers, hiking socks, wet-weather pants and coat), food (I’m still knawing away at the 2-lb. block of Tillamook sharp cheddar), my outer-framed backpack, both tents, water, and 4 pairs of shoes (serious hiking boots, lighter hiking boots/shoes, tennis shoes, and the all-important water shoes).
We threw all the stuff into the truck and headed for the ATM. It was Scott’s notion, as to really capture the Seattle experience, to take a ferry to the Peninsula, as opposed to driving the 60 miles south to Olympia, then the 1-2 hour drive north onto the actual Peninsula. In 1988, we had taken the ferry to Victoria, B.C. and rented scooters, tooling about the Canadian side (It was my first time out of the U.S.). Knowing that I was soon going to be back in nature, the huge REI store posed difficulties, as inside, this being the flagship store, every product that REI makes was on display. The staff was very cool and helpful, although I was disappointed that they were out of most of their stuff sacks, dry vegetarian-food selection, and, most of all, that they carried no type of dog food, can or otherwise (although, I could’ve gotten Sophie the dog Gortex foot pads for $30). In an ominous sign, Scott and I got lost heading from the store to its accompanying parking garage.

Finally on I-5 heading north the 20 miles to Edmonds (the northern ferry dock), we drove through the quaint town on the mainline before joining a line of cars waiting the 45 minutes for the next ferry. As a cop directed cars into one of the 4 loading lanes (these ferries are massive, carrying 100s of people and vehicles), we were fortunate enough to have been stopped right at the payment booth, where we chatted with the booth toll-person, a mid-late 50s man with one of those beatnik/Satan-type of beards. He told us about the crazy stuff he’s witnessed in his 12 years working the booths (nudity, wasted people), his love for Crater Lake, Nev., the fact that he never travels to the Peninsula, and, shockingly, how his son was molested at aged 4, and to this day, will not allow any males, including his own father, to initiate physical contact.

For 2 people and a dog, the ferry ride costs $24 and is approx. 30 minutes long. It was nice to stand in the bow of the ferry to witness how fast these things are really moving. Finally placing wheels on the port city of Port Ludlow, we noted that it was already starting to get a bit dark, with the strong Washington sun slowly stretching the shadows longer and longer across the bay. We got gas and coffee, and shopped in a nice not-too-overpriced grocery store, picking up some excellent and cheap local tortilla chips and a box of veggie burgers (Morningstar, $3.99 on sale). I stocked up on Sophie’s dog food as well.

Since we were getting such a late start on the Peninsula (which was fine, I was not the least bit concerned with time or lightness), our best option was to drive north/west on 101, through the small retirement town of Sequim. We took Palo Alto Road 5 short miles to reach the border of the Olympic National Forest. Passing the USFS Dungeness Forks campground, we drive 2 miles past, turning off side Forest Service Road, gaining elevation through the darkness. We came to an area that had been dug out, offering a wide, flat area, and decided to set up camp.

Shotgun Campsite...
The campsite was very quiet, and, although, dark, was a good spot. At probably 10:30 p.m., we made a fire after 2 minutes of wood-gathering, had a bit of food, and crashed out. In the morning, the view was nice enough, but we noted all the trash and, particularly, the remnants of target shooting (bright orange clay pigeons, and a few hundred bright-red shotgun shells). Over coffee, we cleaned the area as much as possible, placing the 40 squashed beer cans and shotgun shells into empty Rainier Beer boxes.
We discussed various route options, and jointly decided that we would further head west on Hwy. 101, with a goal of reaching the coast by nightfall. We would then select an area for the overnight hike. If time allowed, we would complete the circle by viewing the eastern side of 101, which follows the hood canal. Armed with 2 travel books, internet trail options/wilderness area details, and the road atlas, we pulled out of the camping spot.

On our way back to 101, we decided to take a quick day hike, walking 2 miles into the Gray Wolf River trailhead. It offered to me my first glimpse into this lush backcountry. A nice mixture of large trees, ferns, and rocks, the area feels simultaneously dry and moist. At the Olympic National Park border, we turned back towards the truck, eager to hit the road, as it was probably past 1 p.m. (it always takes long to pack the truck, as the process of pulling everything out for needed items is very tedious, but necessary).

Listed below is our realized itinerary, and I will post each of these days as a separate entry.

Friday, August 20th, 2010: Port Angeles: A Visit to Raymond Carver’s Gravesite
Friday, August 20, 2010: Rialto Beach, Quileute Indian Reservation (Pacific Ocean camping), Forks (Twilight book/movie setting).
Saturday, August 21, 2010: Beach 4, Colonel Bob Wilderness peak hike/camping
Sunday, August 22, 2010: Campbell Tree Grove, Drive back to Seattle through Olympia and Tacoma

Thanks for reading the blog! Chicago Dave and Sophie (guest starring: Seattle Scott)

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