June 25th: CC's Sleep Problems Continue, Steep Mountains, Meltdown in the Rain, Being a

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Mice running races in the dark, someone besides her husband snoring, bugs,
noises and hot flashes all keep CC from sleeping well on the trail. If we tent
most of those things are not problems, however when we do the shelters all cause
her grief! Last night was no exception. People started pulling out by 6:45AM. I
was up and working on hot breakfast by then and CC was ‘as one’ with her
sleeping bag. It was 8AM by the time we were the last to leave the shelter. It
was hard to say what the day would bring weather wise as it was still overcast.
There had been brief periods of rain throughout the night, but that had stopped
around 4AM. We had full water bags and the next shelter was only 8.8 miles away
with a stream almost running next to it. Out of the norm, we got to start our day
walking DOWN HILL! What a pleasure not to have begun the day sweating. Rice Gap
is 455' lower than the shelter and just over one mile away, then it was up 780',
a mile and a half walk up Frozen Knob to 4,580'. We were in hardwoods most of the day with the odd conifer here and
there. The mountains here typically are tall with very, very steep sides. Coming
down off "Sugar Gap" (4,000') toward "Rector Laurel Road" we zigzagged from one
side of the hollow to the other. As we started down we saw a fresh blow down. The
root ball stood some seven feet in the air and there were three trees attached.
You could tell it had happened the day before as the very fine hair like roots
still had dirt clinging on. Any rain or wind would clean these roots off
quickly. Looking around as we descended we noticed many of the smaller plants
had been blown to the ground as well, then we saw more trees and debris strewn
about. Upon closer inspection it appears a "Microburst" must have ripped down
this particular hollow bringing anything with the slightest weakness down. There
were no less than eight groups of trees whose root system failed, leaving them
littering the forest floor. One such group blocked the trail causing us to pick our way down the stream bed.
Nearing Rector Laurel Rd we noticed a very old cabin site. The peak of the
roof was barely identifiable, you could see the hewn logs and chinking through
the weeds. An old white porcelain wood stove lay broken as the house stood where once
the kitchen must have been. A little further down the trail we found the remains
of the barn, again now nothing more than semi organized logs on the ground. Near
the barn sat a pair of old graves and headstones, probably residents of the
overgrown, forgotten farm in this unnamed hollow in the mountains of Tennessee.
Bottoming out there at 2,960' we headed back up towards Flint Mountain Shelter
610' higher and 3.3 miles away. We had planned to walk to Jerry Cabin Shelter
today. We have been hearing for a few days the spring there is dry. You have to
walk over 3/4 mile down hill through the woods along a creek bed until you find
water. Flint Mountain has a very strong stream close by. Our plan is to have
lunch there, camel up and continue to Jerry Cabin. The walk was unremarkable but
warm. We lunched on peanut butter and crackers, beef jerky, Tang made with real
cold mountain spring water and granola bars.
While preparing to leave, the first close thunder claps got our attention. We had 5.9
miles to Jerry Cabin, 1,270' to climb then 690' down to the shelter. The first
1,000' were at quite a steep grade, no switchbacks here! CC asked the question; I
gave the answer, "I think it might miss us today." Off we went. We got maybe 1/4
mile and 150' up the hill when the flood gates opened! Wind blew, thunder boomed
right above us, the trail started to become a torrent! CC picked up her pace
trying with all her might to out run the tempest. The faster she went the harder
the storm became. Every turn we made in the trail only showed more near vertical
climbing and water rushing down on us.
She lasted for almost 30 minutes before she stopped dead in her tracks, turned
with tears in her eyes and crying. "I'm exhausted, I have not slept good for the
past four nights and I can't go up this mountain!" I told her it was easier to
go on than go back, she was strong and could make it so let's go. She turned her
face back up hill and started to walk again. The next hour was painful for both
of us, her trying to beat the mountain and the storm, me watching her and trying
to encourage her where and when I could. There was one point I thought she would
loose total control. We were up on top of "Big Butt Mtn" (only in the South).
Wind was gusting well over 50 mph, the trees started to really move. CC turned
with pure panic on her face, she looked petrified and was crying uncontrollably
looking for any place safe. None were to be found. I told her it was safest to
just keep moving.
By now the trail was a small river running down the steep hill carrying
anything it could push. Being in the Infantry for 20 years I have spent many
storms walking. You get used to it. I remember my first few real bad ones and
how the unknown scared the wits out of me. I saw this in CC. There was a
gradual change in her that comes to all who walk in these extreme conditions.
Before a soldier’s boots, socks and feet get soaked, he will walk five miles
around a mud puddle just to stay dry. Once his feet are squishing inside of his
boots, he will try to ford the mighty Mississippi at 10' over flood stage. Soon
CC had figured out she was wet to the bone and couldn't get wetter. The good
Lord was with her and walking beside her and nothing she could do would change
the situation. Walking was all she could do and that she did right up the middle
of the trail, now a stream. Water splashed almost up to her knees as she pressed up
the hill.
Nearing the shelter the storm started to subside. Wind calmed to a gust here
and there, the down pour turned to a light drizzle. We had made it! Approaching
the shelter we noticed a chimney. Four men sat inside the structure talking.
Two were resting in their bags and two looked ready to leave. Walking closer we
all exchanged greetings and salutations then they repeated the "No Water Here"
mantra of the past few days. I told them we had carried plenty and thanks for
the info. Two got up and said we could have their spots as they were going to
continue for an hour or so before calling it a day. Then they were off and CC
and I started to settle in. I inquired about the fireplace and it's usability.
They were uncertain but said I was welcome to try. There was something about a
fire inside to get warm by that seemed right.
CC was cold and need a boost so I decided to take care of it. While she worked
at getting a bit dryer I went looking for wood. CC got out of her boots mine got even
wetter. The two guys just laid up on the platform and watched. As I worked to
get the fire started and wood gathered. CC and the men talked. One asked if I
made her a fire every night? She said no, only if it was real cold or she asked.
It took about half an hour to get the wet wood to burn where it tended itself. Then I started on supper, again the men looked on in wonder. One said
something about it and I just said it was my job to take care of CC what ever it
took. Supper done, most of the cloths dry and time for bed. CC did not want to
sleep in the shelter but stay in the tent in hopes of a better nights sleep. I
had been all around the area and knew flat spots weren't to be had, at least not
for two people. I told her we would put up the tent and she could stay there
while I slept in the shelter. We had it up in no time and she was all tucked in. I went back to the shelter to dry my
stuff then go to bed.
While drying my stuff one of the guys asked why I waited on my wife hand and
foot? I replied she has taken care of me and my children for 30 plus years. To
hike the AT is her dream, it is the least I can do to do everything I can to
make that dream happen. He shook his head, rolled over and went to sleep. I
finished my drying then went to bed.

Patrick, Deborah Mooney aka OD & CC
All Who Wander Are Not Lost

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