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Published: December 16th 2007
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Posted by: Onaxthiel: Near Beaufort, SC stand the remains of Old Sheldon Church, founded by early South Carolinians, burned by the British for serving as a powder magazine, rebuilt and burned again by the Federals during the civil war. These days the remaining brick walls and pillars are surrounded by a beautiful landscape of trees, vines and bushes. Tomb stones dating to before the revolution and strangely walled up trees complete a pervasive sense of serenity and the usual in the morning mists that enshroud this place. The trunks of the trees all seem to lean in towards the ruins, giving an impression that they are bowing to the grave of John Bull, a founder of South Carolina and Savannah. He now lies interred in front of what remains of Old Sheldon's altar. According to the plaque near the road, the church is still used once a year for Easter services. If I thought I would be in the neighborhood, I think it would be a good one to attend. It would also be a very spooky place to be in the dark, when the imagination runs amok and places the ghosts of dead confederates in the swirls of fog in
the night.
We proceeded to Charleston, where we planned to see a bit of the downtown, check out a set of World War II vessels at a place called Patriots Point, and view Fort Sumter, the artillery target that started the civil war. By the time we arrived in town, there was time for us to view the Fort Sumter National Monument park, where the context and build up to the War of Northern Aggression are laid out for the visitor. Strange how in a war of northern aggression, it was a bunch of southern military cadets that fired the first rounds. The museum is quite informative, and taught me some facts I hadn't been aware of, which always makes me happy in my National Parks. After the visitors center, we went on the days last tour out to Sumter itself, a one time artificial island. Here in the heart of the south sits a huge, roughly pentagon shaped fort with its foundation on massive blocks of granite imported from New England. These days, at low tide at least, one could walk out to Fort Sumter on a sand bar, but the boat is just a more fun route
to go with, as well as being (I think) the only legal route out. The walls of the fort have been partially rebuilt since the Union reduced them to rubble in their furious attempts to recapture the edifice. Many of the old bricks that once made up the walls are still found on the shore below the walls of the fort. These days the most imposing bit of architecture on the island is a giant black structure. This is what remains of a battery of two massive naval guns installed on the parade field after the Spanish- American war to defend from naval attacks that never materialized. In the second world war, the defenses were updated to serve as a sub watch, though I don't think they had a particularly distinguished career hunting U-boats. On the way back into town, we were buzzed by a Navy hellicopter that circled our tour boat a few times. I'm sure they were looking for attractive female tourists, but being late into the off season, they had to settle for Obfuscator, me, and the dozen retiree tourists that shared the ride back with us.
Once back on shore, we drove into downtown Charleston
to see historic market street and take a look at whatever else we could see. Strangely, we ran into another former Ranger I knew up to a few months ago. I shouldn't be so surprised, as we were only about an hour and a half from Savannah, but to see him was still a bit of a shock. We exchanged phone numbers and planned to get together for dinner in about an hour. Meanwhile, Obfuscator and I went to a nearby park and viewed more local history. The original building of the Citadel is on one side, in a somewhat effeminate pink, along with a statue honoring Count Dracula, the second one we have seen on this road trip so far. Drac had a massive ground wire running from his back, possibly to ward off lightning, but possibly as a means of helping interested climbers ascend to stand on his pillar with him. Unfortunately, in broad daylight with the heavy police presence, and lacking climbing gloves,we were unable to attempt the summit this time. After this, we wandered back towards the bar we were meeting my old army associate at. It was a good meal, and we caught up on
Grave of William Bull
It's doing remarkably well, considering. how post army life is treating the two of us. He is making considerably more money, but I'm enjoying myself more.
Our campsite for the night was a local county park that was almost as pricey as going to a motel. When we arrived, we found out that the county also had a huge Christmas lights display going on the route we would drive to our tenting area. We were instructed to drive past the leaping reindeer and turn right at the winking owl. It was lonely at the tenting area, so we took the computer down to the recreation center of the camp ground and played games for a few hours before racking out in the humid South Carolina night.
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Doongar
non-member comment
You know where Charles Sumner attended church? That's right... King's Chapel. We're everywhere.