Oregon Coast & Cascades Photography

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OREGON COAST & CASCADES
Field Notes from the Journal of Guide Donald Lyon.

Day 1, August 24, 2008 Portland to Florence: A beautiful day in the Willamette Valley. Your humble correspondent (YHC) Donald Lyon of Brownsville, Oregon arrived at the Portland Airport Quality Inn at 9AM to meet Lee Brand (Tampa, Florida), Clarence and Grace Cramer (New Jersey), Stan Cutler (NJ), Len Rubin (NJ) and Maureen Munro of Cambridge, MA). We have eight days of exploring ahead of us. Our first stop was south of Salem at Willamette Vineyards. Deer were wandering through like so many itinerant pickers. The sun was well up in the sky at this point but we made some representative shots overlooking the vineyards looking west towards the Coast Range. This area is well known for Pinot Noir—we decided to make our own taste determination and concluded that the $40 Reserve Pinot was certainly worth considering (note: we did not spit). On down the Interstate to Albany and along the old highway to Corvallis is balmy shirt sleeve day. Lunch was outside at McMenamin’s pub—an Oregon institution. Hayden covered bridge is along Highway 34 and the Alsea River. We stopped at an isolated homestead to photograph two horses using the fence for practice with selective focus. Further on was a sagging old barn. As we neared the coast at Waldport a few sprinkles turned into a downpour with rain all the way to Florence. We admired the crashing surf and the drama of the Devil’s Churn. Heceta Head was all but erased by the mist. At 7pm, we checked out the harbor for tomorrow—good potential in the mist. Seafood dinners of salmon and scallops at Bridgewaters in old Florence. A couple bottles of Hindemans Reisling (located near Eugene) was a pleasant welcome to the cool green (very wet) state of Oregon.

Day 2 Florence to Bandon: Gorgeous all day—good example of how a crashing rain storm prepares the way for photography. Out at 7am and down to Florence Harbor for shots of the 1930’s Art Deco bridge over the Siuslaw River. Then fishing boats with gorgeous misty sunrise just beginning to burn through the mist. Breakfast from 8-9am at the Little Brown Hen and on out to Heceta Head for shots of that famous lighthouse. Light keepers Cottage in some but the tighter shots will probably be the favorites. We catch the light as it swivels by. Down to the beach for reflections in the wet sand and driftwood shots. At 11am we were checking out of the Riverside Inn and heading down the coast. Honeyman State Park was the immediate goal. The dunes here are great when it is sunny with lots of kids jumping and playing. Neither was happening so just some overviews from Cleowox Lake or up on the dune tops. At Charleston we bought deli sandwiches from Davey Jones Locker and sat on the wharf to eat and ponder our shots. Mostly working boats here—trawlers, dredgers, and a few sailboats. Young couple were catching crabs at a rapid rate but few keepers—young and females went back into the briny deep. Further on to Cape Arago and Sunset Beach. Views of the Cape Arago lighthouse and folks enjoying this gorgeous stretch of beach. Shore Acres Park Botanical Gardens is the remnant of and lumber barons garden. Half dozen deer demanded to be photographed. Gorgeous views of the rocky shore, and the pond yielded Monet-like images of the lilies and bronze herons. On down to Bandon and Windemere Inn—right on the beach. Wide angle low-level work for the sunset at Bandon Beach—below Face Rock. Garbage bags and beanbags were needed to get down to water level. Sunset was just fair but some nice shots were had by all. Dinner at The Station and to bed in our cozy units by the sea.

Day 3 Southern Oregon Coast: Clear and pleasantly cool at 7am. We stop first at Face Rock Overlook, scene of last night’s festivities with low level reflections. This time we’re after the big picture. On around the point for views of the Coquille Lighthouse framed by Cypress Trees. More shots of this stubby lighthouse at the mouth of the Coquille River from across the river. Into old town for breakfast at the Minute Café. After short stop at our lodge, we are off to explore the coast to the California border at Brookings. A shop sigh of a lighthouse being swallowed by a giant wave demanded to be photographed. The straight on shots were best. This was a bit of Americana which I hope we all are collecting—they won’t be with us much longer. Port Orford was next—views from the overlook above the harbor. A hoist lifts trawlers out of the makeshift bay—they sit on dollies when not at work. So the marina is more of a parking lot. Pics of crab pots, boats, the hoist at work and a harbor seal begging for scraps from the chef who was preparing Deep Red Rockfish for his restaurant—this fish is fresh. YHC was offered a tasty bit of raw fish—yumm. At Gold Beach Bookstore—a unique institution—we had soup and bagels for lunch and browsed the book selections. It was hot, getting hazy and windy but we cruised on for a stop just north of Harris Beach then Harris Beach for 45 minutes. Windy but kids playing in water was one good shot. Western gulls hovering (while kids fed fritos—no wonder American gulls are getting fat) were best shots for YHC. The driftwood formed interesting compositions, too. Heading north now to Lone Ranch Beach. Windy but horsetail “reeds” teasels, overviews of the beach were our reward. Arch Rock gave us the False Lily of the Valley leaf patterns, Back lit Arch Rock was so so but other scenes here were worthwhile. Gold Beach’s Jerry’s Pier Inn Café provided dinner. We laid in breakfast supplies at the supermarket here then beat it back to Bandon not sure if the sunset was on or not. Surprise—it was stunning at we just barely made it. Most chose the option of staying up on top but YHC was down on the beach getting soggy and recording wide-angle scenes of the explosive sunset just one inch off the sopping sands. Marion Berry Pie up in Maureen’s kitchen tonight and an opportunity to review each other’s LCD to offer congratulations and critiques.

Day 4 Bandon to Crater Lake: Breakfast in our rooms—who could complain about the service or the selection? The idea was to give folks a chance to explore the beach without time limits but the late nights were catching up and most slept in until 7am. *am departure—beautiful clear day all day. We made a number of stops along the Coquille River Valley—including the quiet town of Coquille where the large mural of pioneer life was recorded. The covered bridge is called Sandy Creek Bridge—1919 as YHC recalls. Wonderful blackberries fell into our outstretched hands. Lee was not deterred by the adaptations here and made some good shots. The hamlet of Remote was another bit of Americana. An old gas station, Italianate farm house and barn added to the story—more black berries. Bear Creek Scenic Wayside swallowed up some time with slow shutter speeds and a gentle current. Clarence arranged sprigs of Poison Oak into a nice shot—hmmmmnnn, better was your hands Clarence. On to Roseburg with huge piles of logs ready to be milled or more likely just shipped to Asia for processing (Oregon’s downfall). The sprinklers prevent spontaneous combustion. We had an excellent lunch at the old RR Station—now part of the McMenamins empire of rescued Americana. Picnic groceries were purchased before leaving civilization and we headed east up the North Fork of the Umpqua River. The grass is golden and the sky is blue so an old poultry shed flanked by oak trees gave us a number of good shots. Following the river now we had many nice opportunities for small water falls and picturesque curves in the river. At Stump Lake we are looking towards Cinnamon Butte—one of the many cinder cones along this section of the ring of fire. Past Diamond Lake to Crater Lake with scenes from the lip of the caldera. At the rim we see Wizard Island—a volcano within the volcano. Short stop to admire the restored circa 1920 Lodge then down to our cozy Mazama “Cabins” and a pleasant dinner at Annie’s Creek Restaurant.

Day 5 Crater Lake to Sisters: Beautiful crisp morning at Mazama Cabins. Unfortunately there were no bear reports. Breakfast in our rooms and out by 6:30AM. Our first stop was on the rim near the lodge. The sun had just climbed high enough to skim the lake. The old trees provided some interesting frames. We also tried small aperture shots looking into the sun to achieve sunstars. Continuing clockwise we captured a number of lake scenes of intense blue. At Llao Ridge the white seed pods of the Mountain Avens (aka Pasque Flower and Hippie of a stick) were a good backlit subject with Wizard Island in the background. Leaving the rim for a few miles we had overviews of the Pumice Desert which was glowing with very interesting rose and yellow colors. We stopped at most of the viewpoints along the eastern side. The sun is at our backs or sides during this period—7:30am to 9:30am so the colors are still delicious. At this point we are looking for foreground—rock formations, old snags, etc. The reddish “Hoo Doos” formation are eroded volcanic ash with caps of harder stone—looking like Capuchin monks. The Phantom Ship formation is in perfect light at 10AM. White Pine Picnic Area was the last stop before retuning to the lodge to check out. Lunch supplies were purchased. A stop at the Visitor Center was a good opportunity to look at picture books to see how we had done and for the displays of the CCC camps that had created so many interesting lodges and camping shelters during the Depression. Our picnic lunch was at the Grouse Hill Picnic area on the NE side of the lake. Lee captured the park sign as we exited the National Park. North to Crescent then up the Cascade Lakes Highway to Crane Prairie Reservoir for lake views of the South Sister. On to Sparks Lake where the clouds were building up over the Sisters and Broken Top to great effect. The South is 10,380’—3rd tallest in the state after Jefferson and Hood. Yellow Kayak and canoe in these pics. Through the happening city of Bend to Sisters which is pretty busy too for a town of only 1700. Our cozy accommodations at the BW Ponderosa await us. Dinner at the Gallery—where the locals hang out. Very good—so good Lee felt compelled to walk home.

Day 6 Sisters and headwaters of McKenzie: Out at 6:30 this clear beautiful day. YHC had scouted out a sunrise scene with the North and Middle Sisters towering over old ranch buildings. Framed by big ponderosa pines it was OK—you had to be there. Meanwhile back at the lodge, breakfast was waiting, waffles, bagels, yogurt—quite a spread for a motel. Driving north of Sisters on the Camp Polk and Indian Ford Roads we stopped for a number of scenes including the North and Middle Sisters or Mt. Washington—the one with the pointed top like the Kaiser’s helmet. Old barn, modern barn and cattle, field of rabbit bush (yellow blooms) and sage brush. Black Butte Ranch yielded quite a number of shots—horses with Sisters background, aspens (experiments with vertical pans at slow shutter speeds and zooms, too). Reflections of the Sisters in the lodge’s Casting pond. The aspens made nice frames here. Three Fingered Jack is the one with at least three jagged peaks—part of a larger peak that was blasted apart (like Broken Top seen yesterday). Mt Jefferson is the classic volcanic peak (like Hood). We tooled on down the Santiam Highway stopping at the Mt. Washington viewpoint with evidence of a major fine a few years ago. Sahalie Falls at 11am was very good—rainbow in the mist. Cedar trees and small leaf maple offer photo ops too. At Clear Lake we captured boaters with red lifejackets and scenes along the shore. The log picnic shelter was built as a CCC project in 1937—a real gem. Lunch at the resort café was simple but tasty. We reshot Sahalie Falls in full light but 11am was better. An overcast day would be required to improve on those shots. Fast shutter works best with these massive falls. Back to the Ponderosa for a 2.5 hour break –then out at 5pm minus armed with the makings of a picnic dinner.

Windy Point near McKenzie Pass on the old highway was our first stop. Well named—it was blowing hard but we walked up the old wagon road to capture the vast lava flows from Belknap Crater and other nearby cinder cones. Almost a mile high, McKenzie Pass gives a unobstructed view of the North and Middle Sisters, Washington, Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Jefferson. The Dee Wight Memorial Observatory was name for the old time forest service packer and woodsman who was foreman of the CCC gangs in the area and who built the stone lookout with the clever view holes identifying all the peaks and buttes surrounding us. The Sisters clouded over just as we reached Scott Lake but showed themselves briefly and pictures were made of that lovely scene. All the picnic tables were taken so we dined on slabs of granite in the old quarry here—salmon salad and a nice Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley. We drove home in the dark—tired but with memory cards full.

Day 7 Sisters-Redmond-Bend: Out at 7:40 this fine day after hand crafted waffles at the lodge. We drove the highway towards Redmond stopping for Scottish Highland Cattle and several ranch scenes in the High Desert. Swan and ducks at Cline Falls State Park. An old outhouse and two old horse drawn mowers glowed in the summer sun on the edge of Terrebonne. By 11am we are at Smith Rocks State Park—a beautiful gorge of the Crooked River and a favorite of rock climbers. Several hundred were spaced around the rocks. We photographed from several high vantage points then three of us dropped down into the gorge to get a vantage point where we could see some air between the climber and the rock. Send pics of the guy in the green shirt to [e-mail] and the girl with white shirt plus bare chested guy to [e-mail] It was a good hike up out of the gorge so we were ready for lunch at the Terrebonne Station (not a McMenamins but on the right track). The food was all interesting and delicious. The freight passing 10’ away added much to the atmosphere. Redmond seems to be catching some of the development fever of Bend and Sisters but is still primarily a ranching town. We added to Maureen’s collection of drive thru coffee huts. Taking back roads into Tumalo, the old church and the saddles at the tack shop were good stuff. In Sisters, Maureen photographed the Wesrern and Indian Arts Festival while the rest of us grabbed some zzzzzzzzzzz’s. Out at 5pm to visit the headwaters of the Metolius River—the good sized stream comes straight from the hill side. The source is thought to be the Sisters—quite some distance. Mt. Jefferson is framed by the river and twin pine trees—though you need a stepladder to do it right. At Camp Sherman, a western band was singing rousing songs about revolutions that should have been and a crowd was enjoying the BBQ and wine. The totem pole is here. Our final dinner together was at Coyote Creek Restaurant where the food was quite excellent though the slices of Marionberry Pie were a bit thin.

Day 8 Sisters to Portland: As promised, the temperatures dropped overnight. After breakfast we packed up the returned down the road to Bend a few miles to photograph the galloping horses and cowboys made of steel with the Sisters as backdrop. Near the Santiam Summit we detoured up a dirt road to explore the forest fire nature story. The light was bright and crisp, fireweed and Pussy Paws were colonizing the charred landscape from the 2003 and 2006 fires. There was a fine light fall of snow as we left—autumn was in the air. Dropping lower and lower, we followed the Santiam River down toward the Willamette Valley stopping at Yukwah Campground for ferns and sylvan glades. We arrived in the pioneer village of Brownsville, settled in 1848 at a site where covered wagons could be ferried across the Calipooia River. It hasn’t changed much since the 1920’s which is why YHC lives there and the town was the location for the film Stand By Me—a classic bit of Americana. Lunch was Brisket of Beef sandwiches at The Brambles—delicious. The weather was deteriorating so after a short visit to YHC’s 1895 farmhouse, we made the drive to Portland. Clarence, Grace, Lee and YHC would stay for the PSA Conference while Maureen, Stand and Len had flight’s out the next day.
Oregon History: The Louisiana Purchase from France included much of the land west of the Mississippi River west to the Continental Divide. The Oregon Country which had been claimed by Russia, Spain, Mexico, Britain and also by the US included the NW states. The region south of 49th parallel was claimed as a territory of the US in 1848 and Oregon became a state in 1859.

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