5/12: An Introverted Octopus and Lots of Sand

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I woke up thinking about my wish list for the day. First item was returning to Yaquina Head. My access pass from the day before was still valid and I felt like I hadn't fully explored it yet. Once done, I had several other items in Newport and the surrounding area. I hurried through my breakfast and headed back to Yaquina Head.

I started by hiking a short but steep trail to the top of the quarry. Despite the morning clouds, I could see north and south for several miles. I went back to the bottom and took a few more pics of the lighthouse before noticing a set of steps going down the cliff side towards the ocean. According to the signs, at the bottom was a set of tide pools that were part of a nature reserve. I made my way down and was greeted by a park ranger who explained what the tide pools role is in the ecosystem, as well as instructions for exploring without disturbing the sea life. There were a group of kids already scrutinizing the water. Although I had intended to take a quick look and head back, their enthusiasm was infectious and I was soon jumping from rock to rock, examining each pool before moving to the next one. Once thoroughly explored, I headed back up the stairs to try to get my schedule back on track.

The first order of business once I had left Yaquina Head was to find some wifi so I could check my online list of attractions in the area, and get directions to my next campground. I drove the north part of Newport for a while, looking for a restaurant that had wifi but I came up short. Out of desperation, I settled on a Subway inside a Wal-mart. Not exactly scenic. I ordered a sandwich and got online. I put together my todo list for the day and headed south across the wonderfully gothic/art deco Yaquina Bay Bridge. All the tourist publications had recommended going to the local aquarium, but while in Pacific City I had talked to a marine biology student who had recommended the nearby Hatfield Marine Science Center instead, so to the Science Center I went. The center had a variety of exhibits on display, with subjects ranging from the life cycle of a Dungeness crab, to the mechanics of tsunamis. Being the middle of a week day, I had the place mostly to myself, making it easy to explore. The only disappointment of my visit was that Montgomery, the giant Pacific octopus, was feeling shy and hid in the darker portions of his tank. As it turns out, that was my last chance to see him as he was released back into the ocean the next day. Fortunately, a nearby tank housed a smaller, but much more outgoing octopus.

My next stop was the nearby Yaquina Bay Lighthouse. Instead of the typical long, cylindrical structure used for most lighthouses, this lighthouse is basically a two story house with a large light on top. It was only active for 3 years in the late 1800s, and now serves as a museum. Most of the rooms are preserved just as they were when it was serving active duty.

Continuing south, I missed my next two intended targets due to lack of signage and lack of planning on my part. I did stumble upon the "Devil's Churn", a jagged, narrow inlet of rock viewable from a platform 50 feet above it. It was quite a site when a large wave would crash through and send churning water in every direction.

Feeling rushed to find my campground, I didn't stop again until I hit Florence. It's a very pleasant town with plenty to offer the weary traveler. After stocking up on food, I located Honeyman State Park. It had come highly recommended and I was not disappointed. Each campsite was nicely placed among the beautiful trees and shrubs native to the area. I was lucky to get a site that was directly across from the trail head that led into the nearby dunes. I did some quick camp setup tasks and then hit the trail. The first 100 yards of trail ran through dense forest, and then opens up at the top of a sand dune, with several towering dunes around you. I hiked to the top of one of the larger dunes and could see many more dunes in every direction. I wanted to explore more, but the sun was starting to set, and hiking up the steep, sandy incline had made me hungry. I reluctantly returned to camp. Dinner was another nice meal cooked directly over the fire. I wasn't done yet though. After the meal was over, I grabbed my headlamp and headed up the trail again. On the dunes, the moonlight made the sand look like water, frozen in time. I sat and enjoyed the stillness and beauty of the area and then headed back to my overnight home. I left the rain fly off the tent so I could look up at the stars from the comfort of my sleeping bag. Another great evening on the Oregon coast.

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