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Published: September 27th 2007
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Sunset
Cape Arago on the Oregon Coast We write from the Prospect Inn and Motel, a Historic Inn on route 62 to Crater Lake. We are in the Zane Grey Room (he apparently stayed here). I don't think I've ever read a Zane Grey novel but that wasn't a requirement. I thought I would recap our trip over the last week or so.
After we left the Hoh Rainforest, home of the Banana Slug, we hit parts of the Washington coast on our way to Astoria, OR. The WA coast, where accessible, is mostly shallow inlets and mudflats, filled with Canada Geese, ducks and herons. Not quite as scenic as Oregon's. The area, in general, appeared somewhat economically hard-hit with shacks and trailer parks. Maybe the decrease in logging has caused problems (although you wouldn't know it from the number of trucks on the road). We also went through the generally lackluster towns of Aberdeen and Howquit twice because there was no other option.
Closer to Astoria we stopped at Cape Disappointment to visit the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, which was excellent and came with a great view of the coast. After that we went across the bridge into Oregon, our 11th state of the trip.
Astoria hugs the hills on the south side of the mouth of the Columbia River, hanging on against the ravages of the sea. Our motel host told us it rained 98 days in a row the first year she lived there! The town had a nice riverfront with a trolley that hauled tourists and a very good Martime Museum that we visited on our way out along with Fort Clatsop, where L&C wintered (doing a short hike).
We then drove down 101, visiting the aforementioned Seaside, the spouting sea horns at Depoe, and finally Cape Foulweather, where we saw Grey Whales from afar. We ended up in a B&B in Pacific City, already mentioned as well, after rejecting the full and ugly campground at Cape Lookout. The next day the traffic was much reduced (being Sunday) and the route more pleasant. We stopped at overlooks, hiked 3 miles (uphill both ways) to the Heceta lighthouse and got a tour, did a little tide pool looking, then found a nice campsite at a state park. Like the camping sites in Olympic, these had running water which we found sort of a waste (no pun intended). What's wrong with a vault toilet?
Hiked down to Crater Lake
We made it to the bottom of Crater Lake (more importantly, we made it back to the top). That was not our last coast day, as previously posted, as we loitered and ended up staying another night--actually the best one. We visited another light house, the Umpqua river light (where the river flows into the sea). This was in the Oregon Dunes area, so we went down and viewed the dunes from below the light. They are big but unless you want to ride your ATV, this section of the coast is really not that interesting. So we didn't linger in this area but went down to Cape Arago, which was fantastic. We went through Charleston, an out of the way place off 101 and filled with fisherman, where we ate lunch at a marina-side diner. Our waitress, an old hand, said they would take plastic "as long as it didn't break." The end of the road is a cliffside vista of the pacific and an island covered in barking sea lions. There were also several Greys in the area and we got to view one very near at the base of the cliffs. Wonderful! We went down and did a little more tide pooling--finally saw a starfish--then went back to set up camp. We returned to the
Crater Lake
Did I mention how beautiful Crater Lake is? One more pic. cape later for more whale watching (there were 4 or 5 then) and for a fabulous sunset of which we will include photos.
The next day we departed the coast but it was a good trip and we feel like the extra day was an excellent choice.
On another note, I must say that today at Crater Lake we broke the 200 mile barrier in our hiking, so that seems like a good time to take a rest. Plus, we recieved the "package" that will enable us to continue buying coffee and chai. Thank you Jim and Nola. I love you like Inlaws. I will also note that I object to the below character smear. Susan agreed to backcountry camp and it was only a lousy 2.4 miles downhill. However, it did save us up to $18 (the camp fees are getting more expensive all the time). Although we did have to get the permit from the young this-is-my-first-permit ranger. He did fine though. And that is "med-rare," thank you. At this point, I will eat whatever appears in front of me if it doesn't move or bite back.
Moose
Ditto on the "thanks" to my parental unit. Our trip can and will now continue. As for your encouraging comment of "staying gone," Vanessa, I believe we are willing to do this. However, we will need more sponsorship for continuing our journey. And since Jim is hiking my butt off, I think it will need to be a considerable sponsorship that will include more wine tasting and B&B stays. If you (and all our other wonderful future sponsors) are in for the full count, let us know. I now feel good about "general delivery" at a planned post office stop due to our successful rendevous with my parent's good will envelope this afternoon. Lets just say "thank you" again. Jim was getting worried and not only were we camping, but we were back country camping to save cash (he said it was for the "fun" of it, but c'mon, you all know Jim). Let me just take this opportunity to say that "backpacking miles" should count double versus regular hiking miles. Just my opinion.
Reservations at 6:30PM for the "dinner house" here at the B&B this evening and I have already checked out the menu. And instant chicken noodle soup isn't on there (thank goodness cause thats what we had last night). Jim has become quite the carnivore and inhales steaks ("rare") now. I should never have let him give that pint of blood in Minnesota cause he is still working on improving his RBC and iron via steak intake. It must be working cause he still outhikes me usually. I don't know if I have mentioned it, but we have had some great hikes, but my favorite hike is still FLAT (I dislike downhill cause it usually means uphill if it is an in and out hike).
The moon was very spectacular last night as we were out in the woods at Crater Lake, which was very very beautiful (hopefully a picture will be attached cause I took a lot yesterday and today). Always appreciate hints or places you recommend for stays or visits so keep that info coming as well. Love you all. Well most of you. Some of you I don't know well enough to love, but l do like you intensely for taking the time to read the blog and for participating in travel trivia. Tomorrow a new trivia question will be posted, so check back.
Squirrel
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lori & burt
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how beautiful!
Love the photos. Well I have been better at reading than writing. So just a quick not to say, hi! Miss you guys. What a great adventure you are having. Looking forward to seeing you in Oct. Lori