Advertisement
Published: August 1st 2012
Not Much Elbow Room
Winters Island Park - Salem MAIn the last year and a half, I have heard stories from hades offered by those who have driven in Boston
without being in tow of a trailer. My common sense prevailed, and I programmed the GPS for my journey from Plymouth to Salem via the longer route and I-95 around Boston instead of the shorter I-93 route through downtown Boston. I arrived in Salem without any problems, but the trip from the freeway to the municipal campground at Winters Island Park was a real challenge. As in most older cities, the streets (and lanes if there are such things) are very narrow, the telephone poles are immediately adjacent to the curb, the various roadway hazards (potholes, manholes, etc.) catapult the truck like a cannon ball and almost every corner where I had to turn came complete with an inconsiderate SOB who just had to pull six feet past the stop line.
The serpentine route the GPS had me follow to navigate the maze of one-way streets had me believing this was a test of my patience and my perseverance – Go 0.2 miles and turn left on A St.; Go 0.1 miles and turn right on B Av.; Go
The 20-30 Minute Train Trip To Boston
Photos Taken From The Train To Boston MA 0.4 miles and turn left on C Blvd.; Go 0.1 miles and turn right on D St…. I’ll bet I made 15-20 turns between the freeway and the campground. Finally, I’m on the road where the campground is located! My truck/trailer package is eight feet wide. The lanes were 8’2” wide with telephone poles and traffic signs on one side and an eight foot tall hedgerow on the other. My radio antenna was zinging like a banjo string at a bluegrass festival if there was traffic and I had to stay in my own lane. Finally, at the office to check in!
“Where’s the dump station?” “Back down the road about a mile at the solid waste plant.” “Really?” Now I have to place my passenger side mirror in jeopardy to dump my tanks. Back at the campground, I find my assigned spot. It is wide enough for my trailer, the slideout, a picnic table (which I had to move because the now-departed neighbor had borrowed it) and one person to walk through on either side. Whew! By now my patience was beginning to wear a little bit thin. I was beginning to think that I was going to
I Think They’re Up To No Good!
Near The Old State House - Boston MA have Lucifer as a roommate for my two-week stay in the city famous for its witches!
After all is said and done, this is a great campground for the tourist who doesn’t plan to spend a lot of time in camp. I was 1-1/2 miles from downtown Salem and 2 miles from the train that took me to North Station in Boston. North Station must have been planned especially for the tourist interested in history. Barring a taxi or a limo, one could not get deposited any closer to the historic attractions than North Station.
The Freedom Trail literally is a 2-1/2 mile red brick path that has been incorporated into the sidewalks in the historic district and connects 16 historically significant sites for the tourist. Where asphalt rules, the path is a red painted line. I actually can see the line using Google Earth – now that I know where to look – and North Station is two blocks from the red line of Freedom Trail.
When I left Florida in February, I had two events marked on my calendar. First was the Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington DC. In spite of the premature blossoming of the cherry trees,
the festival and parade were great and an unexpected bonus was the flyover of the Space Shuttle Discovery on the Transporter en route to its retirement home in Smithsonian. Second was to be in Boston for Independence Day. Well, here I am but I surely wasn’t counting on the bicentennial celebration of the War of 1812! Of course, I had developed my “to do” list, but it shot out the window faster than a speeding … Space Shuttle. My stay found me visiting two cities simultaneously. A couple of days when the weather forecast was marginal I stayed in Salem. On nice days I headed for Boston. I felt a little punk a couple of days and stayed home.
My first foray into Boston left me utterly amazed. There were “British soldiers” everywhere, and it seemed that half the population was in period dress. I made my way to the National Park Service Visitor Center where I learned of the bicentennial celebration and the associated events. The events calendar was loaded to the hilt. Street re-enactors were providing impromptu period discussions with the visitors about the unfair treatment by the British and the need for war. Street performers were
providing period music to add to the festive atmosphere. Public meetings were conducted in the Old State House. The entire Boston historic district was alive with activities not normally seen in the area.
I did manage to walk a portion of the freedom trail on a ranger-guided tour and to check off some of the items from my “to do” list. I saw the Old North Church and the house where Paul Revere raised his family and operated his silversmith business. After the tour, I made my way to The Old State House which now is a museum and is where prominent Bostonians such as John Adams, John Hancock and Samuel Adams debated the pros and cons of American self-government. The blood that was spilled in The Boston Massacre was shed right outside the front door of The Old State House. Inside is the second story window from which the Declaration of Independence was read to the masses of Boston after its arrival from Philadelphia.
The museum is replete with pieces once owned by the likes of Daniel Webster and John Hancock, with symbols of British rule such as the Plaque of Royal Arms that once hung over
the doorway of the Colonial Governor’s residence and the actual Charter granted by Their Majesties King William and Queen Mary communicating the laws of the Crown to the inhabitants of the Massachusetts Bay Colony and with artifacts from the Revolutionary War such as the drum that sounded orders to the troops during the Battle of Bunker Hill. Other period relics include a 3-D stereograph, a sail maker's palm, model ships, muskets and, my favorite, scrimshaw. Several displays outline and explain the evolution of patriot sentiment into outright rebellion and provide background about the leaders that proposed independence.
In recognition of two hundred years of peace between the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom; the US Navy, in partnership with OpSail and the US Coast Guard, planned several events in Boston to commemorate the War of 1812 during Boston Harborfest. Harborfest is part of Boston’s annual 4th of July festivities, and OpSail, or properly Operation Sail, is a national non-profit organization dedicated to sail training and promoting goodwill among nations. You might know that Boston is the home port of the victorious 1812 US Navy warship, USS
Constitution. It was during this war that our fledgling nation fought to
Pretty Cool Stuff
Navy Leapfrogs Skydiving Team - Boston MA preserve its independence and was when USS
Constitution earned her famous nickname, “Old Ironsides.” Might it be that is why Boston was chosen to host this commemorative event? International naval vessels were in port (with their varied uniformed crewmen on shore leave) and tall ships were invited to Boston for Harborfest.
One morning at 10 AM the Navy Parachute Team "Leapfrogs" (no, I cannot claim credit for that one but I sure do like it) and the Navy Jazz Band put on a performance at a north end park near the waterfront. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to walk from North Station to the park and didn’t know what the early morning commute would be like so I caught a 7:30ish train. Everything went well, and I was VERY early. The parachutists, the ground crew and the band members all were available for chit-chat between or while performing tasks. After the parachute drop, the band put on a concert for an hour or so.
I wandered down to the pier where a reproduction privateer “Pride of Baltimore II” was berthed and free tours were being offered. I also wanted to see if any tickets were
No Water Supply Problem Here
Fireboat Demonstration- Boston MA available for the mock battle that afternoon. Expecting all the slots would be taken and planning to watch the battle from the pier, I was shocked when I learned there was one slot available. Available no more, har-har! The Baltimore II and her formidable opponent of the day, another reproduction privateer “Lynx,” are non-profit educational “institutions” and sail to a variety of locations to educate the public about various maritime subjects.
Having a couple of hours to kill before the duel at sea, I had the lunch I had packed (not knowing what might be available), had some people-watching time and drank in the hustle and bustle of a very active waterfront. I had noticed a boat off in the distance that didn’t appear anchored but really didn’t seem to be going anywhere either. I thought it might be the harbor police running radar or something! All of a sudden this boat starts spewing water from a half dozen different orifices. T’was a fire boat Mr. Retired Firefighter. The boat approached the waterfront between piers A and B, made a U-turn, out around pier B, approached between piers B and C, made a U-turn, etc. until it had completed
“I’ll Be Down As Soon As This $&($#@& Is Fixed, Ethel.”
Mock Sea Battle - Pride of Baltimore II and Lynx - Boston MA the circuit and returned to its “at ease” position. I would guess the show lasted 30-45 minutes. What a treat! I have seen them in action on TV but have never seen the real deal or felt the wind-swept spray on my face.
When it was time for the “Duel of the Privateers,” I walked back down to the pier where Baltimore II was moored. After all paying passengers were embarked and those on board for the free tour had walked the plank (har-har), we were treated to standard instructions sets of the Coast Guard (the life preservers are located…), sailing ship owners (don’t trip over the ropes after tacking maneuvers,…) and war ship commanders (cover your ears,…). Now, pray tell – how are we supposed to cover two ears and still take pictures when we were issued only two hands? One of the crew members was high in the rigging working on some issue. I hadn’t realized he was there until he hollered for a tool or assistance or something during the newbie briefing. Right quick like, another crew member scampered up the rigging with the tool, the extra hands or the knowledge (whatever was required). With the
“I said, ‘Look out below. I’m getting sea sick!’”
Mock Sea Battle - Pride of Baltimore II and Lynx - Boston MA problem corrected, we heard, “Cast off the shore lines, aye,aye.”
Positioning myself close to the captain so I could eavesdrop on answers to other passenger’s questions, I made the acquaintance of a young couple who had (for business) lived in Vietnam for three years. I learned that Americans are very well-liked by the populace (particularly John McCain, interestingly, because of pro-Vietnam legislation he introduced) and that most of the people are too young to even remember the war. They had met several Vietnam vets who had returned to see the new Vietnam first-hand. Food for thought. Perhaps. Maybe…some day. We’ll see.
The captain related that the Coast Guard had allocated the wars ships an imaginary box within which they could conduct the battle. Of course, both captains were in radio communication to script the maneuvers for maximum passenger entertainment. Soon, the ships were closing. “Stand by to fire one,” the captain bellered. As we passed Lynx on the starboard side, he commanded “Fire!” Then gun three was fired. Of course Lynx was firing back and several of the passengers enjoyed some requisite banter back and forth. When the pass was made on the port side, guns two and
Surrender or Drown!
Mock Sea Battle - Pride of Baltimore II and Lynx - Boston MA four were fired. After five or six passes and volleys of cannon fire, the captain gave us a brief tour of the harbor – particularly of the other tall ships that came to Boston for the Tall Ship Festival.
Even though we didn’t get a close-up look, the contingent of five Class A Tall Ships was impressive – particularly since I recently had visited the 100-foot Mayflower II. I guess this teaser was meant to pique the appetite to purchase a Tall Ship Tour excursion! On hand were the Cisne Bronco - a 254-foot Full Rigged Ship from Brazil; the Dawaruci – a 191-foot Barquentine from Indonesia; the Gloria – a 249-foot Barque from Columbia; the Guayas – a 257-foot Barque from Ecuador and the
Eagle – a 295-foot Barque from USA (a Coast Guard Training Ship). Don’t ask me to define (or even pronounce) a Dawaruci, but I know a Barque is one misspelled flying insect short of a cookout! They assuredly were impressive at berth, and I surely would have liked to have seen them under sail when they arrived in a procession that fostered a cannon salute. Unfortunately, their departures were unannounced and staggered.
Wednesday,
Quite An Impressive Collection
Tall Ship Festival - Boston MA July 4, 2012 was forecast as a dismal day with a 65 percent chance of thunderstorms so I stayed put at the Pilgrim. Thursday was forecast as a Chamber of Commerce day making me plan to see the fireworks on the fifth if they are rained out on the fourth. The show was not cancelled so I’ll try to do the William Tell Overture thingy some other Independence Day. The Thursday forecast was right on the money! I boarded the train earlyish (for a professional tourist) and almost immediately realized I had set the camera on the truck seat while I donned my lunch bucket/water carrier (fanny pouch) and had left the “fond memories recorder” sitting there when I walked to the train station. Thus, my first stop was a pharmacy to purchase a twin pack of disposable cameras. That was quite costly – not for the money but for the restraint I would have to impose on my shutter finger. I later learned the picture quality was not as good either.
My plan for the day was to walk across the Charles River Bridge to the Charlestown Naval Yard National Historical Park where USS
Constitution (Old Ironsides) and
Nimble Brutes
Tugboats Moving USCGC Eagle From Pier - Charlestown MA USS Eagle were berthed. As I was crossing the bridge, I could see two tugboats hovering near the USS Eagle. I stepped up the pace and made my way to HarborWalk. (An aside: HarborWalk is a great attribute for Boston!) I arrived moments before the tugs began doing what tugboats do best – tug. I know already, tugboats usually push. Why then you ask…? Ask somebody other than me. Several people stopped to watch for a moment or two and left saying, “We have to get to…” Some senior citizens like me just watched and enjoyed. The hard core action took about ten minutes (or so) of the hour (or so) that I watched. Finally, USS Eagle was seaward bound under diesel power. Shucks – I was hoping to see her set sail.
By the time I arrived, a moderate line had formed to see USS Constitution. I chose to visit the Shipyard museum first. The museum is very interesting and contains lots of artifacts, photos and displays related to life in the shipyard in its day. By the time I finished the museum, my shutter finger was experiencing withdrawal –
USS Cassin Young In Dry Dock
Charlestown Naval Shipyard - Charlestown MA I had shot quite a few pictures during my “once in a lifetime” hour with the
Eagle. You might rejoice; however, I’m sorry I can’t offer more details about the museum! LOL
When I left the museum, I found that the line for Old Ironsides had doubled. What the heck. I boarded the USS Cassin Young on display in Dry Dock 1 of the old shipyard. Although USS Cassin Young was built in San Pedro, California, fourteen Fletcher-Class destroyers just like her were produced at Charlestown. She now is maintained and staffed by National Park Service staff and volunteers and serves as an example of the type of ship built, repaired, and modernized in the Charlestown Navy Yard. Dry Dock 1 is preserved as a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.
The dry dock operates by allowing sea water to flood the compartment, the gates are opened, the ship enters, the gates are closed, cribbing is placed under the ship to balance and support the vessel and the water is pumped out of the compartment allowing the sihp to rest on the cribbing. The dry dock is an eyes only attraction (looking down at the
The Bow End Of The Dry Dock
Charlestown Naval Shipyard - Charlestown MA cribbing from up on the dock), but I found it very interesting. The Cassin Young, on the other hand, was very ho-hum. The self-guided tour is around the exterior perimeter of the main deck. Several Plexiglas portholes allow visualization of a few of the interior features. Skipping the Cassin Young tour would not be detrimental unless one had never before seen a Navy warship.
BUT, the Cassin Young was not what I came to see. Normally, guided tours of USS Constitution start at 10:00 AM and are offered every half hour; however, (probably because of Harborfest) all decks of the ship were open for ad lib exploration. USS Constitution is a wooden-hulled, three-masted heavy frigate built in Boston and named by President George Washington after the Constitution of the United States. She is one of six original frigates authorized for construction by the young Congress, was launched in 1797 and is the oldest commissioned naval vessel afloat in the world. The other five were named Chesapeake, President, United States, Congress and Constellation. It seems President Washington overlooked the Supreme Court. Hmmm. Constitution and her sisters were larger and more
Quite The Steering Wheel
USS Constitution (Old Ironsides) - Charlestown MA heavily armed than standard frigates of the period. Old Ironsides is a must see for any history buff. None of the photos I took below deck turned out worthy of a hoot from an owl. Sorry.
The National Park Service hosts two Visitor Centers in Salem – one (full-time) in the historic district and one (part time) in the maritime district. Like in Boston, Salem visitors can “follow the red line” from historic site to historic site. The main visitor center had an introductory video about Salem in general and, for a small fee, an in depth video about the causes and evolution of the witch hysteria that developed in the early 1690s. The Salem witch trials were a series of preliminary hearings and then prosecutions of people accused of witchcraft between February 1692 and May 1693. Despite being generally known as the Salem witch trials, the preliminary hearings were conducted in a number of area towns.
In colonial North America, there was a strong belief that Satan was present and active on Earth, and the supernatural was part of everyday life. The concept actually emerged in Europe about the fifteenth century and spread to North America during
colonization. Witchcraft was then used by peasants who invoked particular charms for farming and agriculture. Over time, the idea of white magic transformed into dark magic and became associated with demons and evil spirits. Men and women in Salem believed that all their misfortunes were attributed to the work of the devil. When things like infant death, crop failures or friction among the congregation members occurred, the supernatural was blamed. The evolution and growth of witchcraft from a belief into an hysteria in the late 17
th century is a long and convoluted story, but we now know that at least twelve people were executed for witchcraft elsewhere in New England between 1647 and the most infamous trials in Salem Town in 1692.
One contemporary writer, Robert Calef, summarized the results of the trials: "And now Nineteen persons having been hang'd, and one prest to death, and Eight more condemned, in all Twenty and Eight, of which above a third part were Members of some of the Churches of N. England, and more than half of them of a good Conversation in general, and not one clear'd; about Fifty having confest themselves to be Witches, of which not one Executed;
above an Hundred and Fifty in Prison, and Two Hundred more accused;..." At first glance, confession might seem prudent but, at least five of the accused died in prison.
In Salem, I didn’t get caught up in the believe-it-or-not, wax museum hysteria that has swept many tourist destinations. I found the educational material – particularly the videos - provided at the NPS Visitor Center totally adequate. I did, however, want to visit the Witch Trials Memorial. Paraphrasing the
web site: The memorial was dedicated in August 1992 as part of the Three Hundredth Anniversary of the Salem Witch Trials. The design was selected in an international competition that received 246 entries and was inspired by the Vietnam Memorial. The Memorial consists of 20 granite benches cantilevered from a low stone wall surrounding an area adjoining the Old Burying Point. The benches are inscribed with the name of the accused and the means and date of execution.
I’m sorry, but this memorial was a TOTAL disappointment. First, the visitor map clearly shows the memorial is at corner X, but there are no signs directing the visitor to the memorial (I had to ask for the location from an assistant on
duty at the Old Burying Point cemetery). The memorial is hidden behind the “low stone wall” at the back of the Old Burying Point. Is this “low stone wall” meant to confine the spirits of the witches or the shame of the accusers? It surely hides the presence of the tribute and, I suppose, the guilt of the event. Second, there is no kiosk to provide the visitor with any background information such as that I found on the web site. Third, I cannot believe that 245 less appropriate entries than this were submitted. And last, as a Vietnam veteran, I am offended by the comparison to The Wall. The Wall stands bold and proud for all to see and admire; whereas, this obscure, concealed edifice merely placates three hundred years of guilt and shame at the hands of religious fervor and judicial quackery. Please, go see it for yourself and form your own opinion.
On a brighter note, the visitor center at the Salem Maritime National Historic Site is much more interesting. The tall ship, Friendship of Salem, is a 171-foot replica of a 1797 East Indiaman, built in 2000. The ship usually functions as a
USS Friendship Of Salem
Salem Maritime National Historic Site - Salem MA stationary museum at the NHS, but the ship is a fully functioning United States Coast Guard certified vessel that will set sail during various times of the year. There is a small admission fee - if you don’t have the NPS Senior Pass. The ship should be interesting for those who have never been on similar vessels but is not a “must see” attraction for others. Generally, my time in Salem happened before the “peak season” when only two of the ranger-led activities were available, and my timing was bad for both of those programs. Of course, I had to walk to the end of Derby Wharf to get a picture of the small, unattended Derby Wharf Lighthouse.
The House of Seven Gables is the subject of an 1851 book of the same name by Nathaniel Hawthorne. It originally was a two-room, 2 1⁄2-story house built in 1667 for Capt. John Turner, and it remained in his family for three generations. During its life under Turner ownership, The House of Seven Gables experienced numerous additions, deletions and reconfigurations. After John Turner III lost the family fortune, the house was acquired by the Ingersolls. While growing up, Hawthorne was often
Full Of Captivating Stories
The House of Seven Gables – Salem MA entertained in the house by his cousin Susannah Ingersoll. By Hawthorne's time the house had only three gables, but his cousin told him the house's history and showed him beams and mortises in the attic indicating the locations of former gables. The House of the Seven Gables is the oldest surviving mansion house in continental North America with 17 rooms and, including its large cellars, over 8,000 square feet.
In 1908, the house was purchased by Caroline O. Emmerton, founder of the House of Seven Gables Settlement Association, and she restored it as a museum between 1908 and 1910. Admission fees to the museum would support the association. Missing gables were reconstructed, but in some instances historical accuracy was sacrificed for “visitor appeal” of those who might expect the house to resemble the one described in Hawthorne’s novel. For example, Emmerton chose to add a "cent-shop" resembling the one operated by the book's character Hepzibah Pyncheon. She also added what looks like a wood closet. The closet has a false back that, when opened, leads to a secret staircase which in turn leads to the attic.
The Nathaniel Hawthorne Birthplace was built sometime between 1730 and 1745 and
Nathaniel Hawthorne Birthplace
The House of Seven Gables – Salem MA was located at 27 Union Street in Salem. The house was acquired by the Association and, in 1958, moved to its current location immediately adjacent to The House of the Seven Gables. Also on site is an 1830 counting house and the 1682 Hooper-Hathaway House - a building that was rescued through the combined efforts of Caroline Emmerton and the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities. Miss Emmerton purchased it and moved it from Washington Street to The House of the Seven Gables property in 1911 when it was threatened with destruction.
The only open outbuilding during my visit was the counting house which is unremarkable. The gardens, although nice, are way overstated on the web site; however, The House of the Seven Gables is worth the expense without the Hawthorne connection and the fame derived from the novel. The hidden staircase is phenomenal, the story is amazing and the docent was fantastic. In my opinion, The House of the Seven Gables is a must see (even though interior photography is not allowed).
My two weeks in Boston resulted in a mixed bag. On the one hand, many important items on my “must see” list remain
Fenway Park - Home Of The Red Sox
A Little Bit O’This And A Little Bit O’That - Boston MA unseen; however, I got to do and see some things that amounted to once-in-a-lifetime opportunities. There were events that I missed such as the ceremonies honoring the writing of the “The Star Spangled Banner,’’ by Francis Scott Key during the War of 1812 because I was unaware until after the fact. There were, on the other hand, sights I saw like the fireboat display and experiences I had like the “Duel of the Privateers” that were absolutely incredible. Boston is a great city, and I plan to return for HarborFest and the Independence Day celebration some year soon. I plan to see Adams National Historical Park, Minute Man Historical Park, the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum and Fenway Park. I plan to walk all of the Freedom Trail and more of the HarborWalk. What the heck – I might even have a burger and beer at Cheers!
Advertisement
Tot: 0.178s; Tpl: 0.023s; cc: 15; qc: 26; dbt: 0.0333s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
