The Easternmost City In America: Eastport ME


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North America » United States » Maine » Eastport
August 21st 2012
Published: September 16th 2012
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No Traffic Jams HereNo Traffic Jams HereNo Traffic Jams Here

Downtown Eastport ME
As I moved further north and east from Bar Harbor ME to the Seaview Motel, Cabins & Campground in Eastport ME on Tuesday, August 14, 2012, the landscape became markedly more remote and less affected by the footprint of mankind. There were pockets of civilization, but the duration and frequency of stretches of uninterrupted, tree-lined highway increased. The villages and towns still heralded an occasional art or antique store as a beacon to passersby; but hardware stores, pharmacies, banks and grocers emerged from the hidden lairs they occupied in Bar Harbor to become the norm along US 1. The trip from Boston or New York City became less and less attractive for weekenders the further I drove.

Eastport actually is quite a little diamond in the rough. The historic city core boasts of 29 buildings on the National Historic Register and a vibrant although serene shopping district – if that contradiction makes any sense. The harbor displays a fleet of working vessels with a splattering of pleasure craft, and most of the pleasure craft are of the blue collar variety. Cafes, coffee shops, sports bars and restaurants generally offer seating on a deck or patio. Nestled between a pair of
Caught Totally By SurpriseCaught Totally By SurpriseCaught Totally By Surprise

Downtown Eastport ME
art stores (stores I suppose, since I envision an art gallery as a place to look vs. purchase) I found a hardware store! Is that blue-collar or what?

In its early years, Eastport's economy was based on shipbuilding. As that industry waned, sardine fishing and processing emerged as the city’s economic turbine. For many years, from the canning of the first sardine in 1876 until the last Eastport sardine was canned in 1983, Eastport was known as the Sardine capital of the World. During its prime, Eastport heralded eighteen sardine factories including the largest sardine cannery in the world. Based solely on my observation, I would contend tourism and fishing, in several of its many variations, drive the economy today.

In my journey through the downtown area, I couldn’t help but see a statue of a fisherman. I snapped a photo of the statue and walked over to read the plaque - a part of what I typically do to savor the community - fully expecting it to be a tribute to the fishermen lost during their pursuit of a living for them and their families. I will quote the plaque on the statue base, "This statue was built in 2001 for Fox Television's filming of its reality mini-series, Murder in Small Town X. Restored in 2005 with donated funds and services, the statue is now a tribute to Angel Juarbe, Jr., the New York City fireman who won the $250,000 grand prize in the mini-series and soon after lost his life as one of the first responders to the World Trade Center attack on September 11, 2001.” In addition to the cash, he had won a Jeep but kept the secret from his family until the final show was broadcast on September 4, 2001. After the terrorist attacks, the show's entire cast visited his family. The roses are exquisitely fragrant in Eastport ME!

One rather ominous-looking day, I headed north toward Calais ME. Even though the skies were threatening when I left Eastport, I decided seeing the landscape through windshield wipers would best not seeing it at all. My first stop was near Perry ME at the 45th Parallel Marker that designates the half way point between the equator and the North Pole. That was not an earth-shattering stop. Then I stopped at the Whitlock Mill Lighthouse that can be viewed from a rest area nearing Calais ME. Again, not an earth-shattering stop. My final stop before reaching Calais was the Saint Croix International Historic Site. There is an historic, interpretive trail (that this fair-weather tourist didn’t trek) which might have changed my sentiment about the site; however, this attraction might be the most unimpressive NPS facility I have ever visited.

The drive along the Saint Croix River was okay, would have been nicer with better weather and might have been impressive in the fall; but, on this overcast day, it was nothing to behold. Finally, I reached the city of Calais proper and was able to survey one of the options on my plate when I was planning this leg of my journey. Let’s be nice and say that I’m sure glad I picked Eastport.

Originally, I had no intentions of visiting Canada on this trip, instead I envisioned spending an entire summer in the southeastern provinces; however, I must say that the park ranger at the Saint Croix International Historic Site altered my plans. I’m glad she did. So on Friday, August 17, 2012, I headed for Lubec ME and the bridge to Campobello Island, New Brunswick - home of
The Only Non-Boat link To Land From Campobello Island, Canada Is Through The United StatesThe Only Non-Boat link To Land From Campobello Island, Canada Is Through The United StatesThe Only Non-Boat link To Land From Campobello Island, Canada Is Through The United States

Roosevelt Memorial Bridge - Lubec ME To Campobello Island, New Brunswick
a variety of attractions including Roosevelt Campobello International Park.

In 1883, Hyde Park, New York businessman James Roosevelt and his wife Sara (nee Delano) had brought their one year-old son, Franklin, to Campobello for a vacation at which time they purchased land for a summer home. The young Roosevelt spent almost every summer of his childhood at the cottage and, in 1903, first invited his "fifth cousin, once removed," Eleanor, to Campobello. Again in 1904, Eleanor Roosevelt was a guest on Campobello, and in 1905 she and Franklin were married. FDR, Eleanor, and their children spent summers in the cottage from 1909 to 1921. Indeed, their third son was born on Campobello and Campobello is where the future president first developed the muscle weakness portending poliomyelitis in August 1921.

My first stop after crossing the Roosevelt Memorial Bridge and clearing Canadian customs was the Campobello Island Visitor Center. I made known my interest in lighthouses to the hostess whereupon she told me of the Mulholland Point Lighthouse that is right across the road from the visitor center and of the Head Harbour (aka East Quoddy) Lightstation at the north end of the island that the VERY adventurous can
High TideHigh TideHigh Tide

Vista At The Welcome To Eastport Sign - Eastport ME
reach on foot at low tide – a low tide which fortunately for my physical well-being would not happen during the hours of my visit!

One coastal phenomenon that has intrigued this landlubber is the tides. This has been especially true since the incoming tide added intrigue to my journey back to the mainland over the breakwater in Provincetown MA. I have understood the basic concept of tides since grade school, but never realized the degree of fluctuation and the impact of topography on that fluctuation. My interest in the topic (and I believe hers as well) quickly became a Larry Lesson about tides in this region. The tides in the Bay of Fundy, this portion of the Atlantic Coast including Eastport ME, are acclaimed as “the highest and wildest in the world.” Indeed, the highest tides recorded anywhere in the world are found at the easternmost point of the Bay of Fundy and measure 48.6 feet. That’s almost the equivalent of a five-story building.

The water that surges twice a day from the open Atlantic through whatever openings it can find in the rocky coastline is estimated to be the approximate flow of all the rivers of
Same Vantage Point At Low TideSame Vantage Point At Low TideSame Vantage Point At Low Tide

Vista At The Welcome To Eastport Sign - Eastport ME
the world in a 24-hour period. The flow of this tidal water has created the largest whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere (the second largest in the world) – The Old Sow - off Deer Island, New Brunswick. It is responsible for the reversal of direction in the flow of the St. John River and can be measured as far upriver as 60 miles away in Fredericton. For six hours, the tide is ebbing; for six hours it is surging – twice a day is low tide and twice a day is high. The photos I included of the tidal extremes from a pullover near Eastport vividly exemplify the phenomenon. I stand in awe of our amazing little space in the universe!

My next stop was “right across the road” at the Mulholland Point Lighthouse. The lighthouse is a great stop for the views of the Roosevelt Memorial Bridge and for the kiosks that tell the story of Lubec and, particularly, for the story of the bridge. Even in the days of FDR, the only access to Campobello Island was by boat. James Roosevelt remembered that his father had spoken of the possibilities of a bridge between Lubec and Campobello.
Lubec ME To The Left Lubec ME To The Left Lubec ME To The Left

Mulholland Lighthouse - Campobello Island, New Brunswick, Canada
In 1957, requests by Campobello residents led to the opening of a dialogue between the Province of New Brunswick, the Canadian Federal Government, the State of Maine and the U.S. Federal Government. Agreements and authorizations were completed in 1958, and construction was completed in 1962. Eleanor Roosevelt, who had been asked to make the August 13, 1962 dedication of the bridge by President John F. Kennedy, was on Campobello Island; however, she did not feel well enough to attend the ceremony and asked son James to stand in for her. She died later that year.

After learning what I could and snapping a few photos, it was off to Roosevelt Campobello International Park. The Park is owned and administered by the Roosevelt Campobello International Park Commission which was created by an international treaty signed on January 22, 1964. Both countries provide financial support to the park which is an affiliate both of Parks Canada and of the U.S. National Park Service. The visitor center revisits the long-standing, shared, multi-faceted history of the two countries in its introduction to "this special place - a park on Canadian soil that has become part of America's heritage."

A short walk got
Relatively Small For 34 RoomsRelatively Small For 34 RoomsRelatively Small For 34 Rooms

Roosevelt International Park & Cottage - Campobello Island, New Brunswick, Canada
me to the showpiece of the Park and the major reason most first-timers visit - the Roosevelt Cottage. FDR's 34-room summer home is meticulously furnished to look like it did when he and his family lived there. Many who know me or those who have followed my blog through the months might remember me describing some of the Newport RI mansions as having “vulgar opulence” and might be expecting me to drop the anchor on a 34-room summer home. I am confident that I could have downsized the FDR property by a few rooms and still left it functional; however, three or four bedrooms in the Roosevelt Cottage had about the same square footage as one bedroom in several of the Newport mansions, and the Roosevelt Cottage does not have a 2000 square foot ballroom nor is it made of marble or gilded in gold. That’s a big difference. Too bad I don’t have photos of the Newport mansions (photography was not allowed), but I think the modesty of the Roosevelt Cottage will speak for itself.

In addition to the Roosevelt Cottage, there are 8.4 miles of driving roads and eight miles of walking trails in the Park's 2,800
Peek-A-Boo, I See YouPeek-A-Boo, I See YouPeek-A-Boo, I See You

Head Harbour (East Quoddy) Lightstation - Campobello Island, New Brunswick, Canada
acres. The Edmund S. Muskie Visitor Center also presents a video and contains exhibits that summarize the Roosevelt story, and flower gardens speckle the grounds. Four other “cottages” are in the park. None are open to the public except one – part of the time, if you are lucky, perhaps, cross your fingers.

Next I was off to Head Harbour Lightstation, where the visitor is greeted by a posted sign warning of an extreme hazard where the "incoming tide rises 5 feet per hour." Like many of the lighthouses along the Maine coast, photographic vantage points on the land were less than optimal. What makes East Quoddy Lightstation (Head Harbour’s alias) unique is the impact of tidal action on the accessibility of the structure on foot. The tides at the lightstation usually measure about 26 feet. Metal steps have been constructed and affixed to the cliff walls on both sides of the channel to provide access to the “ocean floor.” A visit during low tide would allow at least the opportunity to assess the avenue to the island. Maybe it would not be a foolhardy excursion!

After returning to Maine from Campobello Island, I made my way to
A Much Better Photo OpA Much Better Photo OpA Much Better Photo Op

West Quoddy State Park- Home To West Quoddy Head Lighthouse And The Easternmost Point In The United States - Lubec ME
West Quoddy State Park in Lubec ME - home to West Quoddy Head Lighthouse and the easternmost point in the United States. Although the 1889 tower is not open to climb, the keeper’s cottage is open and has a variety of displays. The grounds of West Quoddy Head offer 360 degree photographic opportunities, and a kiosk provides a comprehensive diagram of the anatomy of the tower.

On the way back to the RV park, I stopped in Machias ME. The Machias Wild Blueberry Festival was getting underway, and a kick-off fish fry was on the agenda for Friday evening. Vendors were erecting tents on the church yard as I waited in the serving line and chatted with some locals. Typically I end up having dinner conversation with yet another group of locals. Between the two groups, I usually gain some great insight into the pulse of the community as well as some good information about places to visit that might not have made my list but can help me put some icing on my visit to the area. The food was very good when compared to the food usually offered at events of this type.

Saturday morning found
The Vocals Drowned Out The Ukulele MusicThe Vocals Drowned Out The Ukulele MusicThe Vocals Drowned Out The Ukulele Music

Machias Wild Blueberry Festival - Machias ME
me returning to the festival for what I expected to be some spectacular blueberry treats. The highway leading into town was lined with vendor booths in what appeared to be a linear flea market or swap meet. Eventually, I found a parking spot in a residential neighborhood about ten blocks from the tent where the fish fry had been held. I walked around the grounds (which consisted of several closed streets and most of the parking lots in the entire downtown neighborhood) looking for interesting delicacies and novel wares I might not be able to live without.

Several booths offered blueberry sundaes, blueberry shortcake and whole blueberry pies; however, I found no single portions of pie, no blueberry cobbler nor any of the other blueberry treats I had envisioned. I did spot a booth offering several kinds of sandwiches including blueberry sausage. Very intriguing! When I returned to the booth for a late breakfast about 11:30, the blueberry sausage was sold out! What? Sold out before noon? I walked over to the church steps where the improvised stage was to host a ukulele group from the local college. The sound system amplified the vocals to a level that left
Ready For The Whale Watchers To Board Ready For The Whale Watchers To Board Ready For The Whale Watchers To Board

Whale Watching Trip Aboard The Ada C. Lore - Eastport ME
only a mere hint of ukulele music. Disappointed, I decided to return to Eastport but made my way to the blueberry shortcake booth for a very tasty treat before heading home.

Monday morning I learned that an iffy weather forecast had become a very good forecast. I drove into Eastport, stopped at Eastport Windjammers, reserved my spot on the 1:30 PM whale-watching cruise and headed for a late breakfast at a local Greek restaurant. After breakfast, I wandered about town and watched the activity in the harbor until time to report to the ticket office. I took my ticket to the dock where the Ada C. Lore was berthed and boarded the 118’ wooden sailing ship. The two-masted Chesapeake Bay oyster schooner was built in 1923 in Dorchester NJ and has been completely restored over the last decade. The highly-maneuverable, shallow-draft vessel was popular for harvesting oysters from the waters of Delaware Bay and is one of only three remaining vessels of its type in the United States.

Shortly after casting off and departing the pier under diesel power, the crew and some of the passengers set sail, but wind power was never really utilized to
Quite A Complex Of Buildings RevealedQuite A Complex Of Buildings RevealedQuite A Complex Of Buildings Revealed

Whale Watching Trip Aboard The Ada C. Lore - Eastport ME
propel the craft. Only 10-15 minutes into our cruise, we spotted some seals and porpoises. The female crewman (or crewlady, crewperson, or whatever is the correct terminology in 2012) turned naturalist explained the difference between dolphins and porpoises with porpoises being the less social of the two. She also spotted and pointed out several species of birds.

As the Head Harbour (East Quoddy) Lightstation came into view, I saw the vantage point I had visited on the terra firma of Campobello Island. I saw the stairs leading to the water below and gained an entirely different perspective of the landscape and the challenge visiting the landmark would present. I saw how one-dimensional and misleading that perspective had been and decided that I’ll leave that obstacle course to the young cats who still have nine lives! As we sailed past the lightstation, I learned it is more than just a light tower but is a sizeable collection of buildings that couldn’t be seen from my first vantage point. From this angle, she is quite photogenic.

We “dieseled” past herring weirs and salmon pens. I learned there is debate among the experts whether any more “wild” salmon remain. Picturesque rock
 “Farm Fresh” Salmon Pen “Farm Fresh” Salmon Pen “Farm Fresh” Salmon Pen

Whale Watching Trip Aboard The Ada C. Lore - Eastport ME
islands dotted the way as a handful of different species of birds of prey soared above. Even though I would be leaving the coast for inland “ports” in the morning, I positioned myself close to the captain so I could pick his brain as we watched the depth finder (which doesn’t register a whale), and I got to see just how treacherous the ocean floor would be in the Bay of Fundy without modern technology – particularly at low tide.

About two hours into the whaleless scheduled three-hour excursion, one of the crew members surveyed all the passengers to determine if anybody could not extend the cruise by thirty minutes. Since I was chatting with the captain at the time, I was the last to be queried. With my affirmative reply, the captain was given the unanimous result and he changed course for a different area across the inlet. Within about twenty minutes, the first whale was spotted as it edged its way to the surface for a breath of air.

Up to 12 different species of whales, porpoises and dolphins can be found in the Bay of Fundy during summer months where they use the bay as
The Whale(s) Actually Surfaced Quite Close To The ShipThe Whale(s) Actually Surfaced Quite Close To The ShipThe Whale(s) Actually Surfaced Quite Close To The Ship

Whale Watching Trip Aboard The Ada C. Lore - Eastport ME
a feeding ground, nursery and play area. The Bay of Fundy is also a preferred location for whales to give birth both for the protection that the Bay provides and for the abundant food supply found in the Bay as a result of the powerful tides - krill, squid and schools of young herring, pollock and mackerel. Whale watching in the Bay of Fundy lasts from June through October with the best month being August. Since this trip is a self-administered birthday present, albeit a few days early, I’m sure glad I have an August birthday!

The captain crisscrossed the area, and I had a whale in my field of view 12-15 times. Whether it was the same whale each time or a different one every time is immaterial, the experience was a thrill. After about thirty minutes, all of the passengers appeared to have had “a whale of a time” so the captain headed back to port. I don’t know if the feature was on the way or if a detour was required, but we passed by, no we actually passed through, “The Old Sow.” The gigantic whirlpool does not have a depressed core ala those depicted in
The Heart Of “The Old Sow” WhirlpoolThe Heart Of “The Old Sow” WhirlpoolThe Heart Of “The Old Sow” Whirlpool

Whale Watching Trip Aboard The Ada C. Lore - Eastport ME
stories of ships being swallowed by the ocean, but she is there without question. I’m sure the stage and the direction of the tidal flow impacts the magnitude of the old girl, but I can easily see how she would be a hazard to a smaller craft and a death sentence to a dislodged kayaker. Within a few minutes, we were back at the pier and all smiles – satisfied with this unique opportunity.

The northern coast of Maine, and Eastport in particular, has been a real treat. Eastport has most of the same benefits as its southern neighbors without the congestion, the rush or the high cost. It reminds me of a down-sized version of Savannah GA where people sit on a bench and watch the birds eke out a living on a nearby patch of grass. If dressing to the nines is important to you, you will not like Eastport. If you want to meet people who are proud of their community and their way of life, come on down! I’ll leave Eastport with fond memories as I leave the coast and journey north along the eastern border of Maine to Presque Isle.


Additional photos below
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Singing, “I Want To Fly Like An Eagle…”Singing, “I Want To Fly Like An Eagle…”
Singing, “I Want To Fly Like An Eagle…”

Whale Watching Trip Aboard The Ada C. Lore - Eastport ME
Part Of The Lobster FleetPart Of The Lobster Fleet
Part Of The Lobster Fleet

Downtown Eastport ME
Transferring The BootyTransferring The Booty
Transferring The Booty

Downtown Eastport ME
To The DockTo The Dock
To The Dock

Downtown Eastport ME


16th September 2012

Don't Fall Off!
This ranks among my favorites of Larry's fine trip reportage. I've never been to Eastport, but I yearn to go, thanks to him. The pictures of the Quoddy Lighthouse are stunning.
17th September 2012

Eastport is great
Thanks Tom - You'll fit right in!

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