A day that will live in infamy - Pearl Harbor, Oahu, Hawaii

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With the mindset “live each day like there’s no tomorrow” we decided we wanted to go see Pearl Harbor on Oahu Island before our stay in Hawaii came to an end. We don’t know when or if we’ll ever make it back – as beautiful as it is, we're generally the type of people that like booking vacations to places we’ve never been before. We booked the flight to Honolulu leaving Lithue at 7:00am and returning 8:00pm on Hawaiian Airlines the day before for about $120 round trip, per person. We rented a car because many of the blogs I saw said that taxis were about as expensive and we didn’t want to waste time trying to navigate the public buses. We wanted to stop by in Honolulu and Waikiki beach as well, if we had the time.

Our flight was super quick – only 28 minutes. We were there before we knew it. We stopped at a diner for a quick bite to eat once we landed and then went right to Pearl Harbor’s USS Arizona Visitor’s Center. I knew that the USS Arizona Memorial was free. What I didn’t know is that you have to make reservations ahead of time in order to claim a time slot. When we arrived all of the tickets were already claimed, but the lady behind the counter informed us that a waitlist starts around noon where visitors may be able to get onboard the ferry if visitors with tickets returned them or did not show up. Regardless, we were still happy that the tickets to the USS Missouri were available – this was a main attraction for us given that the Missouri is where the Japanese surrendered in World War II. The Arizona can be seen from almost everywhere in the harbor.

We bought the Pearl Harbor Experience pass which gave us access to the USS Bowfin (a decorated WWII submarine), the USS Missouri (last battleship commissioned by the US and place of surrender with Japan) and the Pacific Aviation Museum. We started out with the USS Bowfin submarine. My husband, Michael, who is nearly 6’9”, could barely fit. We walked down the stairs into the torpedo room; it was pretty cool to see. We made our way through the Bowfin and listened to the audio tour, which included some great commentary from naval crew who had served on the Bowfin. I was most surprised to hear how much better the food was for submarine crew than any other naval vessel. Because of the lower capacity and hardship ensured, they got steaks, fresh fruits, etc. to eat as long as there was enough storage. Also, it was interesting that the Bowfin could reach a depth of 264 feet safely. It was purposefully made for that depth as the Japanese sonar capabilities were 245 feet. That way the submarine could often go undetected.

Next we caught a bus over to Ford Island, where we boarded the USS Missouri. My first thought when boarding the ‘Mighty Mo’ was how modern it looked. That caught me off-guard considering I had prepared myself for tours of 1940s vessels. I soon found out that the battleship was active until 1991, which is why it had amenities like computers and movie theatre recreational areas.

The first thing we saw on the Missouri was the place where the Treaty of Surrender was signed by General Douglas MacArthur and the Japanese Prime Minister. A plaque lays on the ground where the table sat for the signing. There is a very life-like replica of the treaty sitting on a table close by. Quotes from General MacArthur’s speech were on display to inspire and ensure that the importance of what happened here would never be forgotten. “It is my earnest hope and indeed the hope of all mankind that from this solemn occasion a better world shall emerge out of the blood and carnage of the past – a world founded upon faith and understanding – a world dedicated to the dignity of man and the fulfillment of his most cherished wish – for freedom, tolerance and justice.” I thought it was interesting how all the tourist signs were in English and Japanese. A lot of Japanese must visit the site.

We made our way throughout the ship, including the bridge. There is an exhibit for the Japanese Kamikaze pilots that attacked the USS Missouri; only one plane ever hit the deck and no one was injured from the hit. They displayed the letters that Japanese pilots had sent home to their families before they left for their mission. It’s amazing to read the sense of pride and honor bestowed on these young men who often volunteered for the mission. The display called out that the USA had never trained to fight in combat where the enemy had already arranged to die. I can’t imagine.

The USS Missouri sits next to the USS Arizona in Pearl Harbor right off of Ford Island. It was intentionally placed there to watch over those buried undersea in the USS Arizona. The two battleships represent the beginning and the end of World War II for the United States. I thought this was a very creative, inspiring and thoughtful gesture.

Once we completed our self-guided tour of Mighty Mo, we got back on-board the bus and headed to the Pacific Aviation Museum. There was a 10 minute video to start explaining the history of the raid on Pearl Harbor and the attack on the Ford Island aviation hangers that are now the museum. Hanger 79 still has bullet holes from the December 7^th, 1941 attack. It also detailed the Doolittle Raid, led by Jimmy Doolittle, which boosted moral for the US on April 18^th, 1942 as it was the first attack on Japanese mainland. Sixteen air force bombers left a US Aircraft carrier knowing that they were unable to return and land where they took off. They attacked Tokyo, with little damage, and all but 3 airmen survived by crashing into China and Soviet Union. Japan set out a giant search for the airmen, but all were kept safe by the Chinese and Soviet allies. It was considered a propaganda victory and Jimmy Doolittle was given the Metal of Honor after the attack. The Japanese retaliated with the attack on Midway Island, which was an important victory for the USA as we intercepted intelligence warning us of the attack and effectively counter ambushed, destroying all of the Japanese carriers that participated in Pearl Harbor. A replica of one of the planes that were a part of the Doolittle raid is on display in the museum.

After viewing the museum, we went back to the USS Arizona Visitor’s center to see if there were any standby tickets available for the USS Arizona Memorial. Lucky for us, there were! We watched the 20 minute video on the history of the attack. While I knew that all the battleships in the harbor were destroyed, I did not realize that 2 ships are still under the water within the harbor. In addition to the USS Arizona, the USS Utah is also undersea. The ships remain tombs for those that were inside when they sunk. The USS Utah lays rest to 64 men and the USS Arizona lays rest to 1,177 men.

After watching the video, the boat ride out to the Memorial was a solemn one. No one really talked, they just reflected on what they had just watched. It’s an effective video in that way. The memorial is a white building raised above the wreckage of the sunken battleship. Through the water you can see the rusted deck of the ship. An American flag is erected over the site. On the far side of the site, there is a marble wall that includes the names of all 1,177 men that died within the Arizona on December 7^th, 1941. It also includes a smaller memorial for the survivors of the USS Arizona attack who were laid to rest with their fallen comrade’s years later. It’s a beautiful memorial.

On our way back, I couldn’t help but think about the families of those that were buried with the Arizona. Were they really okay with the fact that the US was not going to rescue the remains of their loved one from the wreckage? I really don’t know how I would have felt if I were them. On one side, I would want my husband, brother or son brought home. On the other hand, I would be honored that where they lay rest became a memorial for the sacrifice made. I really don’t know - its hard to imagine being them.

Once we cheered ourselves up and made our way to the car, we decided there was plenty of time to make it into Honolulu. Michael had heard some great things about Waikiki beach, so we wanted to check it out. As we drove through Oahu toward Honolulu, we began to appreciate our island. Even the most developed places of Kauai have lush foliage and one lane highways. Once in Honolulu, I couldn’t help but draw a comparison to San Diego. The hotels, the harbor, the military presence all feel the same. Once we got to Waikiki Beach, we parked and walked for a while. I can compare Waikiki to Miami Beach without the art deco architecture or club atmosphere. Hotels line the beach while convertibles drive down the street. The water is littered with paddle boarders and wind surfers. It’s beautiful, but like I said, I prefer Kauai.

It was time for us to make our way back to the airport. The rental car company warned us that there are no gas stations close to the airport, therefore we topped off the tank in Honolulu. The flight home was a quick one, and Michael and I were both asleep almost as soon as we got back to the hotel. It was a great day.

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Photos

The view from the bridge
USS Missouri watching over the USS Arizona