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Published: November 13th 2013
TAKING OFF (1)(slang) When a surfer paddles into a wave and matches the speed of the wave rather than the speed they were paddling to obtain that wave. The exponential match in speed between surfer and wave causes the surfer to "take off" from gravity.
(2) When a surfer gets on a plane and that plane takes off from the land causing a new horizon to be viewed and a new destination to be reached upon landing.
Before i started my travels while i was still in Hawaii i watched a film called "The Way" with Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez. The film itself was a bit slow but there was a scene that I really was touched by. The father is going on a trek to remember his son who passed away traveling. He does a pilgrimage on a Spanish trail called the way of St. James in remembrance of where his son died. Near the end of his journey he goes into a church . There he sees his boy smiling back. My father passed when I was 14. I too dream of and envision my father while I am happiest and most accomplished in life. At times
Log Cabins,north shore
i can see him watching me and smiling as i am journeying through this maze of life and the mind.
My dad used to always say the world is a classroom . I always thought it was a really cool phrase. After over 6 months of traveling and half way across the world from home i see it as much more than that. Every event we experience & every choice we make teaches us to better ourselves and learn where we want to be in life and in the moment. When we listen to our heart we are learning from the world. In all our encounters and in whomever we meet we have the opportunity to become what we want to become.That confidence in what we want I see as a faith in the unknown power of our minds and trust in our potential.
I remember booking my ticket so passionately and excited. I was going from Honolulu to Los Angeles and then Peru to Miami to Atlanta to Washington DC to England. I was ready to see the world west to east and in revolution. In the last few days tying up loose ends was smooth. I
yokohama bay. west side
had given myself a couple months but in my head time was really until I ran out of money.
The last day of surfing i had an incredible session at "Pupukea" and "Off the wall". Two of the best breaks in the world near Pipeline and my treehouse on north shore, Oahu. I know I'm good and cheerful when I charge harder and catch the bigger waves while surfing. They were coming too. So I had no choice. It was as if nature had collaborated to give me a gift and invite me to stay and be well at home. But ,alas! I knew adventure was calling and I would return.
That evening I boarded a plane bound for Los Angeles, California . A 5 hour trip to the closest land mass. It was getting a dose of spring swell surf. It's a great big metropolis, my ex-home and a lovely lady was in the cards to meet again. April 25th I would start my adventure!
When I was in college I had a dream wherein I knew I was dreaming. It was exciting because in my knowing I was dreaming I then knew I could create
yokes on west side
any reality i wanted and live it. Thing is I didn't know what I wanted...So I let go of want.
My subconscious, for lack of a better word, created a dreamscape for me that was wondrous to the fullest effect of my imagination. I believe life, if I trust enough to let go, holds immense opportunity and amazement even to surpass my wildest dreams.
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