Southern Fried Chicken and Ocean Breezes

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Fort Pickens Campground, Gulf Breeze, Florida

We hitched up, took showers in the really nice football belle's bathhouse, and headed out to our next location. We drove a total of about 260 miles a little west, but mostly South. In fact we drove south absolutely as far as we could - the road dead ends at the Gulf Coast. Although long, it was an interesting drive, taking us through coastal plain forests dense with assorted evergreen trees, punctuated by a few budding hardwoods. Terrain was soft rolling hills, nothing really challenging. We took two-lane Alabama and US highways most of the way, so speed limit was usually around 55, which we can do with the trailer fairly easily.

We didn't have firm lunch plans, but I really wanted to experience some homestyle southern cooking while in this part of the country, so Joan found a restaurant in Troy, Alabama that seemed to fit the bill - Two Sisters. It was an all-you-can-eat buffet, housed in a fairly good size plain building on the side of the road. When we arrived, at 1:00, the parking lot was packed and I had to find a spot for the rig down a side road, almost in a gully. After walking the girls and putting them in the trailer with water (it is really pretty cool in the trailer, even on a hot day), we proceeded into the busy interior.

There my wish was granted. Buffet had southern fried chicken that was moist and chewy on the inside, spicy and crisp outside, but not greasy at all. Next to that was another kind of chicken in a sort of a sweet and spicy sauce with peppers. And there was also Salisbury steak. Side selections had all the usuals: mashed potatoes and gravy, candied round yam slices, macaroni and cheese, black-eyed peas, creamy green bean casserole, collard greens, and much more. And, of course, okra! They had okra fried, stewed with tomatoes, and sort of just plain baked. I tried the fried (and gave Joan one), but anyway you cut (or cook) them, you just can't get rid of that slimy feel. (Sorry, South, but you can keep your okra.). I ate two big platefuls, including two hush puppies, and then went back for banana pudding dessert. Washed it all down with sweetened ice tea. Terrific food, and according to Trip Advisor, a lot of other people stop there on the way south to the beaches. So, if you find yourself anywhere near Troy, Alabama, eat at Two Sisters!

Drove on down south a bit further and felt the need to gas up, so we stopped at a gas station in Opp, Alabama. Normally, a gas stop is not worth mentioning. I fill the gas, Joan goes potty, and fills up the coffee mugs, girls look wistfully out the window, and then we are off again. But this time, as I'm getting back in the car, this white-haired guy comes running across the road just so excited that he could hardly contain himself. I didn't really think he was coming for me, but he was. He yelled out "Sir! Sir!" As I was closing the door, so I hesitated as he came closer and he said "I just have to tell you that you folks have come further than anyone else who has ever stopped here before. We've seen a few from Texas, but you are the first from New Mexico!" I was really kind of happy that someone knew where New Mexico was, and that it was a state in the union. But not quite knowing what to say, having been bestowed with such an honor, I said something to the effect of I was glad to have made his day, thanked him for the recognition, and remarked that this was a beautiful town. After moving onward I thought really hard about what his day must be like that he spends it eyeballing license plates from across the street!

As we continued south and the temperature outside soared into the mid-80s, I have to admit that I was getting tired and was anxious to get to our campground. But the highway seemed to never end, my legs cramped up, and I got cranky. And, of course, that made Joan cranky. We decided to speed things up a bit and got on Interstate 10 for 30 miles, then headed south again towards the beach. Finally got to Navarre and headed west on the coastal highway, 98. And that just went on and on forever. Finally we rolled into the town of Gulf Breeze - a beach tourist town with palm trees, crab shacks, and lots of motels and restaurants. As we headed even further west, there were more and more hotels and condominium sites.

Then we entered the Gulf Islands National Seashore property and all of that just disappeared. We proceeded through white sand dunes topped with tufts of shrubs and grasses. That went on for at least five miles and I was wondering if we were getting lost. Soon it was obvious we were on an island as there were ocean waves rising on both sides of us and still we kept going.

We are going to explore more today, but this is a one-of-a-kind campground. We seem to be near the western tip of the outer island. White, sandy beaches on both sides and cool ocean breezes whipping through the trees. Just stunning - more pictures tomorrow.

(17.1.15)

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Photos

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Sunset from Fort Pickens Campground