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Published: October 7th 2007
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Sequoias
Did I mention there are some really big trees out here? Two hikes, two different parks, two different experiences. One provided an opportunity to connect with nature, one not so much. They shared some things: traffic, road construction, lots of people. But they differed in important ways. The difference is due mostly to my perception, yet it is real enough to me. Perhaps in the future I will find a way to make them the same. I hope so.
Hike 1: Yosemite. The trail is busy from the start: families with small children, an old woman being led by her daughter, voices from all over the world. This is the trail for Vernal and Nevada Falls, and we are doing a loop of 5 miles with a 2000' elevation gain. The first 1/2 mile is uphill and fairly steep, yet the bridge looks like a city park with people perched atop every rock and a bathroom. We pass through and began a long series of switchbacks toward the top of Nevada Falls. We pass someone every minute or so, nodding hello. It's a bit like riding an escalator. Soon a string of singing school children comes along. Ah, wilderness. We rest. Often. Finally atop the falls there are perhaps another 100
Big pine cones
Sugar pine cone. The cone for the Sequoia is actually very small. people milling about, taking in the view, which is wonderful, though the falls is a trickle this time of year. Past the turnoff to Half Dome we decend an incredibly steep series of stone steps that look like they were built by sadistic Aztecs. Parts of the trail are too narrow for more than one person and have sheer drops. On this trail I see six year olds, old women, septugenarians who have already summited Half Dome, a person with one arm, hoardes of school children, a man who can barely walk at all, people in sandals. I see more people on this one hike than I have seen during the previous 220 miles of hiking. I'm a little shell-shocked. I estimate a minimum of 500 people in 5 miles. More like summer camp than a walk in the woods. I enjoy the views and the falls, but it is not the experience I was hoping for. I find no rejuvination here and I leave the woods just as I entered, only more tired. Apparently everyone else can do this hike but it wore me out.
Hike 2: Sequoia. Through a new snowfall we walk over the paved path
More Big Trees
What more can I say? They are big. that leads through to the General Sherman Tree, estimated to be the largest tree in the world (in volume). The surrounding grove is full of enormous Sequoias disappearing into the sky. There are a few people as we stroll along, being careful of the slush and ice, but soon we come to a trail sign that indicates a junction. We don't see another trail at first. Then it appears, a slight depression in the snow that leads off the beaten path. The snow is untrampled and it beckons--the path less traveled. I cannot resist. The first step into new snow is magical and I thrill to it, yet am sorry at the same time. It is almost too beautiful to disturb. But we are off and make our way up a slight hill into groves of trees, no doubt viewed thousands of times before--but not today. Today we have them to ourselves for a time and I relish that privilige. There are too many to count or to name, as some have been. It strikes me as hubris that a species with a lifespan of barely 100 years sees fit to give names to another that lives 20 times that
Snowy Trees
More trees. More snow. Very beautiful. long. They should name us: pufff of wind, speck of dirt, fleeting moment. These trees have been scorched by fire that has killed many Hemlocks and the black burns around their deep red trunks is dramatic against the bright snow. We do not know these trails, have no map, but are simply walking among the forest giants, content to be with them for awhile, just us and them. It is quiet, still. This is why I have come, why I am on this trip. It is life's-breath to me to be here. Just as surely as I need the crisp air filling my lungs, I cannot live without these moments. It will end, both this walk and this trip, but right now this is all there is: these ancient trees, the fresh snow, the coyote tracks. And it is enough. It is everything.
Moose
10/05/07 Three Rivers, CA. I am ready for bedtime. A real bed. Flannel sheets. I'm in heaven. The hot tub and shower were also nice. And our hosts and their friends shared dinner and wine with us. Even better. Jim is watching baseball (he finally figured out the satellite thing, but lost the sound which
Love them Big Trees
More trees. Another Sequoia. our hosts have not been able to correct yet). We are with some folks and their friends on a Friday night, but I must say, I miss our Friday night get togethers with our friends. I wanted to call the gang tonight, but no service up on this mountain. To add to Jim's blog above, I estimated about 250 people on our hike in Yosemite. Jim estimates about a 1000 and I think somewhere in the middle is accurate. It was a very steep hike and the thought of going 5 1/2 miles more and 2000 feet more did not excite me (the rest of the hike to half dome). The cables to help with the last 400 feet didn't excite me either. I did tell Jim we could do it if he really wanted to summit Half Dome. He basically said he did not ever anticipate being on that same trail again. Ever. The most exciting part of that trail was that a couple asked "me" (Jim had hiked on ahead) what type of beautiful bird they were trying to get a picture of. And "I" (not the birder in this family) was able to say "Oh, thats a
Nevada Falls
Yosemite NP. One of the falls on our hike. Loud now, but said to be "thundering" in the spring. Stellar Blue Jay". I felt like a very good birder. I hope I made you proud Karen. And also on the hike we passed a guy on his cell phone actually quoting numbers to someone on the other end of the conversation and we saw a man carrying a shopping bag (from one of the Yosemite shops, not a plastic bag) like he had just been to the local YosemiteMart. It was a very steep hike and I was glad to get back down in the valley.
I think we are both a little tired of camping, camping food, and winding roads. Flexiblity regarding "winding roads" is over. I think we need a few hours on a straight interstate just to balance out the 1000 miles on winding roads (my estimate could be a bit high). A couple days in the same place will also help rejuvinate us. We are still having fun and still crack ourselves up on a regular basis, but just imagine "being on vacation" for 3 months and on the go all the time and anxious to do as much as possible in a short period. Its fun, but tiring. Not complaining, just an observation.
10/06/07
Lovely hike today. The snow was beautiful. Some big trees. Pictures attached. I have decided Jim is more the Coastal Redwood type (pictures from last week) and I'm more of the Sequoia type. Both are very cool trees. Heading out today. Unsure where. We are discussing the Grand Canyon and the parks in Utah. Where will we go? Don't know. Hopefully in a few days, you and we will know where we are. If we are just driving aimlessly on the interstate in a few days, then we may have to ask for some direction from some of you.
Squirrel
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greg Lawhorn
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Greg n Sherry
Fantastic picts - Brother don't come back-don't come back!! I want to scream- you have gotten away from the tunnel vision that blinds our life for far too long, even having been on wonderous fantasies-somehow it fades when"life" intercedes. :( how to keep the joyous wonder of feeling you are the first to behold a wonder.....when worriing about what you have to do at work tomorrow or how to pay the outrageous bills that when compared to the scheme of things is absolutely nothing. - aww well - I degriss - can't wait to see ya'll again!!!!! much love, your sister in law