Everyone's a winner baby!

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Hi All. Here goes another long one. You have been warned!
As you approach Las Vegas you can almost smell the sin in the air - not for nothing is this place known for extreme enjoyment and shattered dreams. You see the giant hotel blocks rising out of the desert valley as you make your way down from the mountains that surround this oasis of sin. Picking up our visiting traveler (F's friend Nicola from back home) we drove from the airport onto The Strip. These are the iconic hotels that you hear about in Vegas, Luxor, New York-New York, Ceasar's Palace and the oppulent Bellagio with it's famous fountains outside (more about them later). It took forever to drive the length of the Strip, the traffic made worse by Nascar racing being in town that weekend. Though we did notice the Monorail that transports people around and we were certain this would be useful later as we explored The Strip. After our now obligatory stop in the visitor centre we headed for the nearest (and cheapest) casino/hotel of Circus, Circus. Like many of the older (or less new, for they're forever knocking ones down and building new ones) hotels it is constructed around a theme, that of a Circus-come-Fairground with daily circus acts in a big tent, an adventure ride arena and amusement arcade. All of which you can only reach by walking through the meandering, dazzling casino floor, all the while desperately trying not to empty your wallet on the penny slot machines or blackjack tables. As we toasted Nicola's arrival at the bar, we decided this hotel was the place to be, mainly because we couldn't be bothered to go anywhere else. The main thing to remember about Las Vegas casinos is that they want you to be spending your time and therefore money on the casino floor, not relaxing in your hotel suite watching movies and enjoying the view. Whilst our room was nice and spacious, they were basic and the hallways all looked the same, drawing you down into the bowels of Sin (note that the hotel lobby and elevators to all rooms are at the very back of every casino so you cannot possibly get to your room any other way than through the casino). To our credit we did resist gambling the first night (I think) and merely walked around, getting our bearings and Nicola trying to get over the jetlag . The next morning we took advantage of the free lessons they give on how to play the casino games. It felt really good to gamble without fear at a dummy round of roulette, though how Craps works and why anyone plays it is still lost on our tiny brains. After this we hit the Strip. Our hotel was at the top end, so out we went into the sunshine, Nicola keen to wear one of the six pairs of shorts she brought with her. Alas it was not as warm as it seemed, as a cruel constant breeze meant that the ladies had to make a quick change before we carried on. And on we went, to Wynn-Encore, the multi-billion dollar complex - the most expensive so far. Past the Venetian with its flooded canals and tourists in gondolas. Past Paris, with a smaller Eiffel Tower and Arch de Triomphe. Past New York, New York, with a replica Statue of Liberty, hotel blocks that mirror the Manhatten skyline pre-9/11 and a rollercoaster that travels in between them. Past the MGM Grand with its real lions inside. Past Casino Royale, past Flamingo, in fact past them all. We walked all the way down the 3-mile section to Luxor, which greets visitors with a replica Sphynx, as if guarding the pyramid and the riches beyond. Needless to say we were knackered and we hadn't even placed a bet yet! So into the Flamingo we went to rest and I was determined to lose some money. Alas after putting a dollar into the 1 cent machines I made over 7 dollars. I don't quite know how but I was ecstatic to take my 700% winnings and feel like a winner!
That evening as we strolled back along The Strip we stopped by the Bellagio to watch the famous fountains dance to music and lights (as seen in the film Ocean's 11). Well I doubt there could have been a more perfect time to see them. The music they danced to was a version of 'Time to Say Goodbye' ("Con te partirò" for those who care), a gorgeous piece of music at the best of times, but with the lighting and precision water spouting against the backdrop of the hotel it was truly magical. A moment that took us away from Vegas, away from America, and reminded us of people that were lost or far away. It brought a tear to many an eye and reminded Fiona of her aunt's funeral.
In the morning Fiona woke up next to a winner (wow 7 dollars, get the champers out!! - F), but little did we know how the events of that day would turn things around. That morning after another relaxing lie in, we headed north to the Stratosphere, a huge tower where theme park rides dangle you 1,000ft above the Vegas concrete (which Nic and Fi screamed their hearts out on). The views were spectacular, though it was a little windy, and we were treated to an Elvis impersonator who seemed to be showing someone around town. Down in the casino Fiona tried her hand at the penny slots. Now usually you are able to win a couple of bucks, which encourages you to gamble more for bigger prizes. But this machine just wanted to throw money out as Fiona matched some characters and she was getting loads of free spins, which meant she was winning more and more money. After the machine had calmed itself down and our eyes had stopped rolling F was 30 bucks up, so now she was happy as muck.
From the Statosphere we carried on north to the old Downtown district. Now the walk from the Strip to Downtown is pretty forgetable, with lots of run-down shops and dodgy motels but here you will find another thing that Vegas is famed for, the drive-thru wedding chapels. Though fairly tacky it is amazing to see just which celebrities have chosen these oh so romantic places to get married, from Bon Jovi to Liz Taylor (not sure which marriage but who's counting?) to many others. Now some of you may be asking yourself whether F and I thought about tying the knot here, and though it seemed to cross Fiona's mind a little too often (huh! - F) I managed to escape this time. Anyway, onto the old Casinos of Downtown and the promenade of Freemont Street, where the giant luminous cowboy and girl stand astride a giant canopy, which covers the street and shows everything from TV to pop videos.
Later that night the fun really began. Flush from her 30 dollar winnings Fiona wanted to try her hand at the roulette wheel. After observing the game for a bit we decided to take our chances. Though I started off well I quickly lost my money and watched as F carefully placed her chips on the velvet. The luck was with her today as she steadily increased her winnings. Each time was going to be her last but more often than not she won something. As the game went on F also took advantage of another quirk in Vegas, free drinks. So long as you are gambling you can order what you like to drink and it is free, though you usually give a dollar tip. Well anyone who knows F understands that she likes to be waited on, so she duly ordered a Black Russian just for the hell of it. Though it was free, what turned up was not a Black Russian, but a normal Budweiser, apparently the waitress had misheard her, but still I enjoyed the drink as F wasn't really in the mood for beer. Still, she wasn't too disheartened as her lucky streak had made over 100 bucks on the roulette wheel. As her luck began to fade and the numbers weren't coming her way we decided to cash in some chips and head for bed (via some more penny slots) and crawled in near 1-ish (early for Vegas considering it's 24 hours).
They say gambling is addictive and it certainly is for some, but none of us lost our shirts or went wild, though a part of me would just love to have thousands to spend and not care where it went. Perhaps one day, but for now we just sat and watched as some of the same people rolled up day after day and sat at the blackjack tables.
Our last day in Vegas was spent visiting more of the great casino/hotels. We looked around the swish Ceasar's Palace with it's ancient Greek fountains and looking at the art displays inside the Bellagio.
Before heading out we traded our car in for a new one (a Nissan this time, but the Chevy had done us proud) and travelled to the Hoover Dam. It is impressive to look down at the near thousand feet of concrete and look back at the mighty Colorado River that it holds back. Expensive to build and expensive to get in, we decided to admire it from the outside and enjoy walking from one state and one time zone to the other (Nevada and Arizona, Pacific and Mountain time). As the sun was setting we headed back towards Vegas and due North, where Death Valley awaited.
Despite the name quite a few things live and survive in this harsh environment, where the summer temps can reach 140 degrees and the water evaporates before it even touches the ground. It never got quite that hot when we were there but it certainly isn't a place to be taken lightly. Engulfed by large mountain ranges which are gradually moving away from each other, the area is home to the lowest point in North America, Badwater. Situated some 282 ft below sea level and still being drawn lower, it is not difficult to see why this place captivates so many. From high on the mountain range you can see the sea of salt that covers the valley as age-old lakes have dried up. On the surface you can actually walk out onto the salt and even taste it (I did - F). If you looked back towards the mountain wall you could barely even see a sign that marks where sea level is. Earlier we had been on a Ranger tour where we were able to see fault lines as the rocks were slowly moving away from each other. That night as the sun began to set we watched it leave Death Valley atop sand dunes that sweep across the valley floor.
The next morning we visited an old ghost mining town, where most of the buildings are falling down. One is made out of old bottles. Though deserted it does not have that old-town feel of a central street and many of the buildings that could be interesting are boarded up. There was some interesting sculpture around, most notably white 'ghost' outlines. So on we went back into Death Valley to see the dunes again. Sitting there on the sand made it feel like we were on a beach, with the sun baking down (it was tempting to grab a beach towel and just lie there all day, Nic was keen to get some colour! - F). We also got to see some tracks made by animals before they are blown away when the dunes are reshaped by the wind. Heading out of Death Valley along the twisting, climbing roads you wonder what this place must have looked like to those who first set eyes on it. Like much of the West this barren landscape must have seemed inhospitable to life, yet many have made their homes here and sought their fortune (They have even built a hotel in the middle of the Valley with irrigated golf course). And the arid landscape perfectly preserves the geological features and formations, which you wouldn't see in the milder climes, making it perfect for scientists to study our planet's history and possibly it's future.
As you drive through to the other side of Death Valley you enter California to little fanfare, and just south of a little place called Independence, you find evidence of a darker side to the American Ideal. For this is Manzanar. The place where Japanese-Americans were interned during the Second World War. As the events of Pearl Harbor reverberated across the US there were massive calls from the media, people and politicians to do something about the 'Enemy Within'. Like so many times before the onset of war brings out the worse elements of our human nature. To look back and see some of the newspaper articles of the time it is staggering to read some of the language used. But America was at war, with no certainty of victory, so early in 1942 the Western States were effectively 'ethnically cleansed' of Japanese-Americans and Japanese migrants. Some 100,000 had to leave their belongings and houses and were transported in trucks and trains to interment camps like Manzanar. Here they stayed for the remainder of the war, though some were allowed to head eastwards after a while and ended up on the east coast. Many young men also served in the Army and fought (and died) on the European battlefields. The museum points out that no-one of Japanese decent was ever convicted of espionage or sabotage during this period and President Reagan himself admitted that the camps were based on pure racial prejudice and not factual evidence (when he formerly apologised for what had occured). Much of the site was dismantled after the war but some excavations remain of old Japanese rock gardens and even a cemetery where those who died inside the camps were buried.
Sunday 8th March was my birthday (thank you to those who sent goodwill messages or tried to call and shame on those who didn't tut, tut!) and Fiona wanted to do something special to celebrate. So I opened my cards and presents (it sounds a lot grander than it was! - F) and thought about where to go. There wasn't much around where we were staying (though we did get to see Mt Whitney - the highest peak in the continental US) so we headed South towrads LA, past some more lava flows and red rocks. Most of the towns we came to were pretty bland, the kind of strung out, homogenised sprawls that we hate (but are fairly common). Driving further on (and getting desperate for somewhere half decent to stay the night on M's Bday - F) we spied a mountain range that seemed to have clouds rolling over it so we decided to head for there in the hope of some quaint village and charming hotel. It began to get dark and misty as we made our way up, so we knew that we had to find somewhere soon. But onwards and upwards we travelled without finding much in the way of civilisation let alone a place to stay! We finally came across a little place way up in the lush hills, so we stopped in a local store to see if there was anywhere good (or just anywhere) to stay. After getting some directions and being assured that we wouldn't have to worry about the weather (snow, rain, fog) we went on our way, hopeful to find somewhere for the night. Well this was where the 'fun' began (or fear and panic some might say), for as night descended so did the fog, and when I say fog I mean the kind that even the Moors of England would have been proud of. It was thick, so thick and heavy that it was easier to see with lights turned off, though that meant that others couldn't see you. You could barely see the lines in the road, though it was probably a good thing that you couldn't tell how steep the drop was over the edge. So onward very slowly we crawled, convoys of cars and trucks going no more than 5 mph as we made our way down and up the mountain passes, with no idea of where we were going. Frustrations ran high, Fiona was concentrating, I had my head in my hands and Nicola was hoping that no ghouls were going to come out of the mist and grab her! At one point we came to a split section, one went down the mountain, another continued on to Lake Arrowhead, our recommended destination. I opted to go down, if only because my nerves couldn't take it anymore, but as usual F didn't listen to me and she wanted to continue on, if only to have something to moan at me about later. So we carried on, through wrong turns, down roads that weren't really roads, closely following the car in front and hoping it was going our way. It must have taken us at least an hour to travel the 6-7 miles it should have been to Lake Arrowhead, but we made it, thanks to F's driving and a good dose of St Christopher. After diving into the first lodge we came to, gulping at the price and swallowing, we went out to find much needed alcohol. F treated us both to a Mexican birthday meal (it was Nic's birthday in Feb) and we headed back to our cabin for some more drink and much-needed rest (so it was actually a good end to the evening and certainly a Birthday M won't forget in a hurry! - F). In the morning I received a wonderful present, no not what I'd been hoping for, instead I had the pleasure of unblocking the toilet (again). Now usually it is me that causes all the problems, I don't know why but the toilets out here are just not designed to deal with my digestive needs (which is odd considering how large many Yanks are). No this time it was down to one of the ladies, neither of whom would admit responsibility and I am too much of a gentleman to name my number one suspect. So after a birthday of frayed nerves and emotional exhaustion, I had to be a man and deal with the situation (It's all glamour this travelling malarky).
Stepping outside into the much needed fresh air, it was clear to see that we (okay F) had made the right choice in coming to Lake Arrowhead. Though a little crisp, it was great to look out across the large lake and see a bald eagle soaring across. After browsing around the bayside shops we decided it was time to face Fiona's worst fears - driving into LA. But first we had to find our way out of these mountains and that almost proved as tricky as getting there in the first place. We took one road that seemed to lead the way out but then came to an abrupt end (though F was determined to test whether the warning signs were right). So we drove back and out the way we think we had come in, but the fog was still lingering around. So into the mist we went again, F concentrating, me holding my head and N scared of the monsters. Eventually it began to clear as we made our way down and it turns out that what we thought was fog was actually dense cloud, cloud that must constantly keep this area moist and which gave it a kind of lush English countryside feel.
'LA is a great big freeway' so the song goes and they ain't wrong. LA is one massive urban sprawl, consisting of several cities that have joined into one mass of concrete, cars and people. You can literally see the pollution on the horizon as you drive in and the only way to get around this baby is to drive, so you know that you're only going to make matters worse. For a relatively new city it is pretty poorly designed, it has no real centre of energy and even the main tourist hubs have no plan behind them. We decided that we didn't want to stay Downtown and we wanted to see the coast so we headed to Santa Monica. We were quickly put off staying here by the high prices and poor reputation the Visitor Information gave for many of the cheaper hotels. It was so busy and noisy that it really wasn't the place for us, so we ventured south and arrived in Long Beach. This was quieter and not too shabby so we made our base here. The next day we spent time walking around the harbour and getting our first views of the Pacific, knowing that we had travelled from one Ocean to another (though to be honest they all look the same). On our way back to the hotel we came across a film crew that had blocked off a road. You can see these wherever you go out here (for CSI Miami fans most of it is filmed in Long Beach, California) and today they were filming a scene from a new NCIS offshoot staring LL Cool J. We took some pictures and chatted to some locals whilst the film crew painstakingly set up the next shot. Though we don't think it went as it should, as when the cameras rolled the cars in the scene actually crashed into each other, which we don't think they were supposed to do. After chilling out for the rest of the day we decided that tomorrow we would aim to do all the touristy things in central LA.
We got up bright and early (for us) and headed north to Hollywood, to see the Kodak Theatre, put our hands in concrete and get pictured by the Hollywood sign. For us it turned out to be one of the most disappointing parts of the trip. The Kodak Theatre is the home of the Oscars, where all the glamorous celebrities come each year to slap themselves on the back, but not many may know that it is in fact situated inside a shopping mall! There is no elegant entrance, just a sign to Starbucks and the area around it isn't much to speak of. Outside the famous Chinese theatre nextdoor we searched the sidewalk for famous people whose hands and feet are immortalised in concrete. Almost everyone you can think of is there, from Marilyn Monroe to Johnny Depp, but there were some interesting discoveries; Governor Arnie has the same size feet as me and Kevin Costner was only honoured in 2006, yet he hasn't done anything decent this millenia. We also got to see some filming of 'America's Funniest Home Videos' which included lookalikes of the stars, some of whom were more than happy to pose for pictures. Across the street, outside another tacky souvenir shop, we saw Kevin James, from TV show 'The King of Queens' skulking past. After the obligatory trip to get our picture taken by The Holleywood Sign we wanted to get away from the area and headed to the coast, via a long route that took us through Beverly Hills and Rodeo Drive on some more star hunting (to no avail). We arrived back in Santa Monica and decided to walk along the shore to Venice Beach, so that F could check out the original muscle beach. Unfortunately it was a bit too early in the season to see loads of people working out so we had to make do with the hippies and the vagabonds instead. It was a surprise to see that Venice was a pretty rundown kind of place, with lots of graffitti, near derelict shops and the cops did have their time cut out dealing with the sheer number of homeless people hanging out by the beach. Speaking of cops, Nic did get to sit in a cop car (sorry Mr E, you did warn her) on Santa Monica pier. It was interesting to chat to the police officer, who we found out had actually shot and killed someone last year. He said that he couldn't do the job over in the UK because (most) officers aren't armed and he thought the job was too dangerous to do without access to a gun.
Thursday was Nic's flight home so we decided to hang around Long Beach and do a bit of whale watching. So off we sailed into the Pacific Ocean, our binoculars out, jackets on in search of gray whales migrating south. We managed to spot seals, dolphins and sealions but alas no gray whales, though one of the crew did claim they saw one on the horizon and off we steamed in search, getting very wet in the process.
Waving goodbye to Nic at the airport was a sad time for us. It was cool how she flew all the way over and fitted in with our travels, chilled out and became part of the krew. As she left, it was a reminder to us of the friends and family waiting for us back home and the realisation that our adventure was nearing the final stages. But a few months still remain, so after drinking a toast to Nicola we spent another morning in LA. We toured around and visited a few agencies, before heading to the Getty Center to see some art and catch some rays above the city. Then we drove up the Pacific Coast Highway, eventually reaching Santa Barbara the next day. Now that place is pretty cool, good Spanish architecture, a nice downtown district and a swish Courthouse, where we saw weddings taking place and great views of the surrounding hills. It also has an old pier (Nic you might not want to read on) and as we walked along it we noticed that people were looking out into the bay area. And what did we see glistening in the sunshine? Only a whale enjoying all the attention! Though it was a bit far off, we got great views of it spouting and diving (N you just went home too early!). We carried on north to Santa Maria, before heading inland, back into the mountains. It was amazing to see how green and lush the scenery is along the Pacific coast, just like home.
F had arranged for us to volunteer for a week on an Audubon (American version of the RSPB) preserve in the Kern River Valley, near a place called Lake Isabella. When we arrived on Sunday there was no one else around, just the birds and the trees. So for the next couple of nights we slept alone, in a little cabin, with no lock, in the wilderness. The first night was OK, but on the second at about two in the morning we heard this almighty crash against the door. Well needless to say we both shot up and F having seen too many horror movies (thanks to my bro Andy! - F) sent me outside to investigate, with a knife in hand and a tiny torch. Well I couldn't find anything, though I was still half asleep and both of us took time to get back to bed that night. So we were glad to see the guy return who lives on the site a few days later. Whilst we were there we met some really nice people, we planted some trees that hopefully in 20 years time will be a haven for birds and wildlife (A good reason to come back). We also felt a few mini earth tremors and saw a vast array of birds.
It was in the upper 70s-80s each day and F got a bit of sunstroke being out in the fields all day, so to work it off we went to the local brewery/restaurant in Kernville, though for some reason that didn't help - but the beer was good. It was great to have a sense of purpose again and the first time since Austin that we had a chance to relax and settle for a while. Everyone we met was really interested in our travels and jealous that we had seen more of their country than they had. Though we joked that some of them had seen more of Britain than us. It is weird how that happens; so often we don't explore the places right next door to us and have these romantic notions of travelling great distances to see something spectacular. Take Basildon, there are many people who have yet to explore the county and beyond, when compared to the US great places are not too far away (though the driving is easier here). So why don't you do something this weekend, go explore a place that you have never been to? Get out of the town, get out of the city and get some country air, weather permitting of course!
The voluntary 'work' was good, though often tiring, particularly in the heat, which can get to over 120 degrees in the summer! I think F has decided that the outdoorsy work thing is not for her unless it is a perfect even temperature, not too hot, not too cold, just like her porridge!
As the weather came in overnight on Sat and the snow began to fall on the mountains and the Joshua Trees, we decided to make our way south again, back to where we had almost been a few weeks before (we even drove on the same roads). It was time to get our last rays of the trip, time to see an old friend of Fiona's from Saf'end, time for Palm Springs and Spring Break baby!

Just in - a little note from our travel companion Nicola:
Well I joined F&M at Vegas and continued my mini road trip with them to LA. I had great fun with my old school pal and getting to know Michael was also good. We all got on well and had some very funny moments - I did do some siding at times just for fun ha ha and we had a hair raising moment when we got caught in thick fog whilst descending from the mountains in Lake Arrowhead (which is an absolutely amazing and beautiful place - think I'd like to go back!). Fiona gripping the wheel to try and keep to our side of the road as we couldn't see anything and using other vehicles' back lights as a guide - we did survive to tell the tail - well done fi!
All in all I had a great time and it was nice to see a different side to America, all the beautiful scenery and some wildlife, and to share it with one of my oldest mates! (but not THE oldest - F)

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Photos

Just like the real thing
Except no rollercoaster in NY

The new member of our band
Here's Nicola at the top of the Stratosphere.

Are they ants down there?
Overlooking the Hoover Dam.

The Lowest Point in the US
At Death Valley

Playing on the dunes
Death Valley

The Graveyard at Manzanar
Japanese Internment Camp.

Survival
Celebrating surviving the fog at Lake Arrowhead (oh and my birthday)

Fog, Fog!!
Driving back from Lake Arrowhead.

Me and happy
Behind us is the Queen Mary at Long Beach. F had the real hump that day!

I'm holding out for a hero!
LA by the Chinese Theater

Finally made it
She always wanted to be in the movies.

Caught Red Handed
She wanted to spend a night without us.

The green green grass of home
Actually it is South California?

The Kern River Preserve
Sean, Reed and his dog Honey. We'll have to go back to see our trees develop.

Comments

[maureen hazelton]

News about loos!
Another great blog from you M (although perhaps a bit too much info about toilets!). I'm just glad I don't know half the things that happen when you're driving in bad weather. The descriptions of Vegas are something else and you all obviously had a great time there. Take care! Love Mum (Maureen)

[Nicola]

;0)
Here here maureen, too much info about the goings on in the loo! Sounds so cool and im so jealous you got to see a whale - dame it lol enjoy the rest of your trip guys, it was great to share some of it with you both, thanks for having me ;0) Nic xx

[Daphne Plant]

I'm ready for my close-up Mr De Mille!
Hi you two winning gamblers (glad you didn't lose your shirts). You can now both say that you did Vegas and WON ! Those hotels are something else aren't they. Driving to Lake Arrowhead was dicey wasn't it (well done on the driving F). Good job you didn't find a motel in the fog though - run by Norman Bates (Psycho). That could have been scarey as Nicola and Fiona might have flipped leaving yet more toilets to unblock M! I'm only joking. It was great that Nicola was able to join both of you and that she really enjoyed herself. Spending time on the Preserve also sounds great - although hard work. Enjoy your time in California. Lots of luv Mum/Daphne xxx