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Published: February 6th 2022
In early January 2022, Anne and I journeyed to southern Arizona for some long delayed hiking in an area we had been to twice before and enjoyed visiting very much. This time we took it fairly easy with no terribly difficult hikes and may have actually learned a thing or two about the history of the area.
We flew into Tucson early on a Saturday afternoon and drove to Wilcox where we checked into our motel. With the pandemic still raging, the Delta variant in full force, and the Omicron variant just getting started, we ate breakfast and most evening meals in our room, either getting microwave stuff from a grocery or take out from a restaurant. Lunch was usually a sandwich or snacky stuff on the trail.
On Sunday, we drove to Cochise Stronghold in the Dragoon Mountains to hike the Cochise Trail that crosses from one canyon to another. The trail starts at the mouth of the eastern canyon, climbs to the Stronghold divide after about 3 miles before descending for another 1.8 miles into the western canyon. We hiked a short distance beyond the divide before heading back for a total of about 7
Cochise Stronghold
From Cochise Trailmiles and an elevation gain of around 1,100 feet. Cochise was one of the most noted Apache leaders to resist intrusions by Mexicans and Americans during the 19th century. He conducted a 10 year war with the US Army that was started in 1861 as a result of the “Bascom Affair.” More about that later from our hike to Fort Bowie National Historic Site the next day. In 1872 Indian agent Tom Jeffords was instrumental in convincing Cochise and his band to surrender and live peaceably on a reservation. (If you are old enough you may remember the movie and TV show “Broken Arrow” based on Cochise’s war and Jeffords and Cochise’s friendship.) According to pretty reliable historical accounts, Cochise died of natural causes (probably abdominal cancer) in 1874 and was buried in the rocks above the canyons of his stronghold. Only his people and Tom Jeffords knew the exact location of his resting place, and they took the secret to their graves. So somewhere near where we hiked is his burial place. We saw no bones.
On Monday, we hiked a fairly short mile and a half to the Fort Bowie National Historical site. The trail
Half Moon Tank
Built by a rancher in the mid 20th century as a water hole for stock, Cochise trail passes right by it. crosses a valley named Apache Valley and up to Apache Pass and the site of the ruins of the fort. Along the way, we passed the site of the Butterfield Stage Station where the Bascom Affair occurred, Apache Springs (the site of the battle of Apache Pass), ruins of the Apache Indian agency where Tom Jeffords had his office, and the fort cemetery. The Bascom Affair refers to a confrontation between Cochise and army Lt. George Bascom in 1861. An Apache war party raided a local ranch stealing several head of livestock and kidnapping a young boy. Bascom thought the indians were from Cochise’s band and confronted him where he was camped near the stagecoach station. Though Cochise denied any wrong doing, he and several of his family were taken captive. Cochise cut a hole in the tent he was being held in and escaped. Bascom kept the other Indians hostage until the boy was returned which caused Cochise to take hostages to try to exchange. Suffice to say that things escalated out of hand, all the hostages were eventually executed by both sides, and war ensued.
Fort Bowie itself was built as a result of the
Cochise Stronghold
Looking down into the East canyon. battle of Apache Pass, a battle for control of nearby Apache Spring, the only reliable source of water for miles around. The first Fort Bowie was built in 1862 and resembled a temporary camp rather than a permanent army post. In 1868, a second more substantial Fort Bowie was built which included adobe barracks, houses, corrals, a trading post, and a hospital. The second Fort Bowie was built on the plateau of Apache Pass, about 500 yards (460 m) to the east of the first site. One interesting bit of trivia is that the commanding officer’s quarters had a flush toilet before the White House did. For more than 30 years, Fort Bowie and Apache Pass were the focal point of military operations, eventually culminating in the surrender of Geronimo in 1886 and the banishment of the Chiricahuas to Florida and Alabama. The fort was abandoned in 1894.
There was an optional trail back to the parking lot that climbed to a ridge providing some nice views of the surrounding countryside as well as the fort’s ruins from above. We took this trail back to the car and with side trips to the site of the original
Cochise Stronghold
Looking north from our lunch spot on the Cochise trail. fort and walking around the ruins of the main fort, the total hike topped out at about 5 miles with an elevation gain of around 600 feet. All in all a nice stretch your legs hike with lots of history thrown in. After we returned to the car, we drove to our next destination of Patagonia, Arizona. I had found that the Arizona Trail ran through Patagonia and an interesting section was not too far north of the small town.
On Tuesday we drove to the trailhead for the Santa Rita Mountain Passage #5 of the Arizona Trail which passed through an old mining camp called Kentucky Camp. We started hiking north along the trail with the intent of hiking to the camp and then hiking back. The first part of the trail followed a portion of the pipeline built by the Kentucky Camp Mining Company back in the early 1900’s, and we crossed the remains of the pipeline several times. While the countryside was scenic, it was all pretty much the same, and it soon became apparent that this was going to be a very boring 4.5 mile hike to the camp, then a return hike
Cochise Stronghold
Interesting rock formation. Looks sort of like an Easter Isle stone face, maybe!? that would be just as boring. Since it was possible to drive to an access road that was only about a quarter mile from the camp, we turned around after about 2 miles and went back to the car and drove to that closer access road. After parking at the lot at the camp access road, we walked down to the camp and then back down the Arizona Trail for about a mile or so exploring the area where the mining had occurred. Kentucky Camp was built in 1904 as the headquarters of the Santa Rita Water and Mining Company, whose investors hoped to collect water from the Santa Rita Mountains for hydraulic gold mining. The venture was abandoned following the mysterious death of the chief engineer the following year. The property became a working cattle ranch for the next 50 years, before being sold to a mining conglomerate that allowed the site to fall into disrepair. The Coronado National Forest acquired the site in 1989; since then, the Forest and volunteers have been working together to preserve the site. Kentucky Camp (and associated features related to the development of the water system and mining in the area) is listed
on the National Register of Historic Places.
After exploring around the camp, we returned to the car and drove back to Patagonia. On Wednesday morning, we drove to Ajo, Arizona, and the Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge. On the way, we stopped off at the Empire Ranch Foundation Headquarters. Empire Ranch is located in the Las Cienegas National Conservation Area (LCNCA) managed by the Bureau or Land Management (BLM). The Empire Ranch Foundation is a volunteer organization that has helped to restore and preserve the ranch and buildings. It has been the setting for several movies back in the 40’s and 50’s and into the 70’s. Several episodes of the TV shows Bonanza and Gunsmoke were filmed there. We explored the main ranch house and hiked up Empire Gulch for a couple of miles to stretch our legs before getting in the car and driving on to Ajo.
In Ajo, we stayed in the Sonoran Desert Inn & Conference Center, a K – 12 school campus, called the Curley School, that has been converted into a very nice facility that utilizes former classrooms as guest accommodations. Part of the complex has been converted into
Fort Bowie National Historic Site Trail
The trailhead is in the distance at the foot of that mountain. apartments for resident artists. The whole town of Ajo has apparently become something of an artist conclave with the town plaza, a short walk from the inn, at its center. Ajo is a former copper and gold mining town in the heart of the Sonoran Desert. The Phelps Dodge Mining Corporation essentially built the town around the mine. A huge pit and mounds of tailings are the remains of what is left of the New Cornelia Mine. The roughly circular pit is one and a half miles across at its widest point, and 1,100 feet deep at the center. Although not generally regarded as a 'dam', the New Cornelia Mine Tailings is often cited as the largest dam structure in the United States with a volume of 7.4 billion cubic feet. While the mine is not officially “closed”, it will probably never be operated as a mine again. If it were to be officially closed, the company that now owns the mine would have to clean up the mess that has been left behind. As a still officially open mine, it apparently can stay as is forever.
On Thursday, we drove down about 17 miles of the
dirt and gravel Charlie Bell Road to the parking area at Charlie Bell Pass in the Growler Mountains. After 5 miles or so on the road, we entered the actual Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge. Entry into the refuge is by permit only. The permit is free, but each individual must have one, available for free on line, after viewing a safety video, from the Luke Air Force Base website. The refuge has been used as a bombing range for the Air Force and the video cautions that unexploded ordinance is found occasionally. Additionally it reminds you that the desert has lots of different plants and animals in it and, while most won’t harm you if left alone, if you mess with them, they’ll getcha. The refuge is the last resting place for Edward Abbey, an American author, essayist, and environmental activist noted for his advocacy of environmental issues and criticism of public land policies. In accordance with his wishes, at his death, two of his friends loaded him into the bed of a pickup truck and drove into this desert where they buried him “where you’ll never find it.” Apparently Abbey had said if anyone asked about his last
Fort Bowie National Historic Site Trail
Apache Spring. The Battle of Apache Pass was fought over access to this spring. words, tell them they were “No Comment.” Accordingly, the friends carved a marker on a nearby stone, reading:
“EDWARD PAUL ABBEY, 1927–1989, No Comment.”
While we were on the lookout for it, we did not find the grave.
Charlie Bell road was a 17 mile, two hour drive that was definitely part of the adventure. The entire road is very rough and only one lane wide with an occasional spot where two vehicles could pass safely. The last mile or so is so rough that we probably averaged no more than 2 mph. In addition to the concern for damaging our SUV’s suspension, I was most concerned about a sharp rock puncturing a tire. Fortunately we made it in and out with no damage. From the parking area, the road continues down the other side of the pass into Growler Valley to Charlie Bell Well. Though no one seems to know for sure, it is believed that Charlie Bell was a rancher who lived in the area in the 1800’s. His well is now covered by the remains of a windmill that has been converted to a solar powered well by the Bureau of Land Management. We
Apache Pass
From the Overlook trail, the Fort Bowie visitor center is on the left with the fort ruins covering the open area to the right of the VC. hiked down the road into the valley for about 2 miles to the well site, losing about 300 feet in elevation. At the well site, we turned right and walked up the north side of a wash that roughly paralleled the road from the pass. That side of the wash was covered with small to medium to large size boulders covered with black desert varnish. As we hiked back up the valley following the side of the wash, we found hundreds of these boulders with petroglyphs etched into that black varnish. We have seen petroglyphs at several other places but never this many in one area. While the vast majority of the etchings date back at least hundreds of years with some over a thousand years old, there are a few that have been added more recently. We saw one boulder with "E. A." inscribed on it. Assuredly not Abbey's grave but perhaps someone's tribute to him. Though it was tempting to stay and search for more etchings, we knew we had a long, rough ride back to civilization so after about an hour or so wandering among these reminders of an earlier civilization, we reluctantly decided that we should
Fort Bowie National Historic Site
Parade Ground. Visitor Center at far left. head back. Back at the car, we checked to make sure all tires still had air in them and then, very slowly and carefully, headed back the way we had come.
Back at our room, we washed up and rested a bit before walking the three or so blocks down to the town plaza. In the old days, there were no good roads to Ajo and the main way in was by railroad. The train station was at the head of the town plaza which was built to impress those arriving to work at the mine and encourage them to stay. The buildings around the plaza and around the central down town area are part of the Ajo Townsite Historic District with many of them on the National Register of Historic Places. The original town was segregated by social status with most of the white families working in the management of the mine living near the center of town with the laborers in the actual mine being predominantly Indian or Mexican. These later lived on the edge of town in in their own areas called Mexican Town and Indian Village. One section off to the side of
The Arizona Trail
A portion of the Santa Rita Mountain Passage. the plaza is a small park dedicated to remembering those who lived in these segregated areas. Walking around the plaza and reading the displays explaining some of Ajo’s history and viewing many of the murals painted on walls by local artists was quite interesting.
Friday we were up fairly early for the 3 hour drive back to Tucson and the Rincon Mountain section of the Saguaro National Park. We wanted to do a bit of hiking in this eastern section of the park on our last full day of the trip so we headed to the visitor center where we talked to a volunteer ranger about best trails for a short, stretch your legs, type hike. Ended up on the Loma Verde Loop, a basically flat 4 mile trek through the desert at the foot of the Rincon Mountains. Distant views were nice ,but the trail itself was just a walk in the desert with interesting saguaro cacti interspersed with lots of other types of desert flora all along the way. After finishing our hike, we drove on to our motel for the night, stopping to fill up on gas along the way. We always say that
Kentucky Mining Camp
Cistern on the hill above the camp. we can pretty much put up with any type of lodging accommodation on the last night when we will only be sleeping there for a short while before an early departure to catch our flight home. This one tested that mantra somewhat. It was a Quality Inn that severely lacked in “quality” but we made do. Up early Saturday morning, we drove back to the airport for our 6:00 AM departure and, with all flights on time and a short layover in Atlanta, we made it home by mid afternoon to find cold temperatures (and snow on the way) and cats glad to see Anne (and vice-versa).
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