Sedoncha wish you were here

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Sedona doesn't creep up on you. You're diving along the highway and wham! - the red rocks start to appear. Massive, otherworldly, they look like gigantic sculpture. No wonder locals have given them nicknames (pet rocks, perhaps?) based on what they look like: coffee pot, Snoopy, shipwreck. We spent the first half-day here exploring the small town, which is quaint in spots - I loved the movie museum with photos of all the films shot here in the 1930s-1970s. But it's also very touristy - lots of t-shirt shops and gee gaws and plenty of business related to the spiritual nature of the place. There is geographical proof that vortexes occur here, the swirling "energy" coming from electro-magnetic fields deep in the earth. Science fact, but it's also been embraced by the new agers with a vengeance. More on our personal vortexation later.
We're staying at the Hotel Amara, a boutique place off the main street with the most comfy bed I have ever slept in. Maybe it's on a vortex.
Dinner was at an unremarkable Tex-Mex roadhouse joint recommended by the bellman at the hotel. But we were tired enough that it did the trick. Yes, it's hot here - and a dry heat, which makes no bloody difference. The temps are around 37C but it's cooler at night and a damn sight cooler than Toronto. Up early thanks to the time difference, we hiked for a couple of hours at Cathedral Rock where Hans bravely went to the top and I waited halfway and talked to a German hiker about how my hiking boots were not up to snuff and how he hates "old things." I wished Hans would hurry. We drank gallons of water. Even at 9 a.m., the sun was very strong. I bathed in 60 SPF before we set out. A second hike around the back of the rock and down to a river wasn't as inspiring as the massive red rock face, but still lovely. Then we headed over to the Chapel of the Holy Cross, a simple and stunning work of architecture done in the 1950s which seems to grow from the rock. I took a lot of photos. Hans commented we now have a great of of pictures of rocks.
Back in town, it was National Day of the Cowboy and Sedona was full of spurs that jingle jangle jingle. And purple sage. Which fits since Zane Grey used to live here. The barbecue competition was a great opportunity to taste good pig, but it was the brisket that won the day for us. Tender, with a great smoke ring and full of flavour. Yummy. After filling our bellies, we went for massages - separately, you naughty people - and it was lovely to get the travel kinks out. At 6 p.m. we headed out on a jeep tour which took us along the Schnebly Trail (named for the town's founder - daddy of Sedona). The bumpy and dusty trail was originally the wagon route from Sedona to Flagstaff and I can't imagine a more uncomfortable trip. Even with modern suspension, we left a couple of kidneys at the roadside. Our guide was knowledgeable and fun and made lots of stops of photos. We went with Arizona Jeep Safari Tours and I'd recommend it - $55 each for 2 hours was a very good deal. We made it to the top of the canyon at the Mogollon Rim - up about 2,000 feet - just in time for sunset.
Today we have an early start - a long drive to Mexican Hat, Utah by way of the Petrified Forest and then Monument Valley.

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