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I wish I actually got around to writing my blogs at the exact time I
thought about writing my blogs! But of course, my last blog was behind schedule, and thus this one is long beyond overdue, so you'll just have to imagine this is a current event.... it still feels like yesterday to me!
On a Monday afternoon at the end of May, my co-worker and fellow New Englander, Christy, and I set out on an epic adventure. We hopped in Christy's fuel efficient vehicle and cruised our way east. We danced to each other's music, shared stories, and enjoyed the vast, empty space of the wild west. Eight hours after our departure, we arrived at our intended destination: Tusayan, Arizona. This little town is best known for its proximity to one of the seven natural wonders- The Grand Canyon. Christy's twin sister, Amy, graciously invited us to visit her current home/work at Phantom Ranch, the only lodging located below the canyon rim.
We arrived very late at Amy's apartment (a cute space she shares with 13 other ranchers) and crashed in two of the open bunk beds. Only a few hours later we
were up, before the sun, to catch the shuttle to the trail head at the top of the canyon rim. At 6:30 AM we began our descent of the red dirt path, following the switchbacks lower and lower into the Earth. We kept a steady pace, rested regularly, and even stopped to socialize with a one-eyed squirrel. Within four hours we crossed the black bridge over the mighty Colorado River, in which we rewarded our sore feet with an icy dip! Tucked back into the gorge cut by the Bright Angel Creek, Phantom Ranch is an oasis of lush, green life in a dusty, red desert. We were greeted by the ranchers with open arms and some gourmet home-cooked food. Full and exhausted, we crawled into the spare beds in the loft for a mid-day nap. The afternoon was spent lounging in and around the creek, sitting on floaties and sipping on beer. In the evening we joined the ranchers for dinner, but shortly after the exhaustion set in, so once again it was time to climb into the loft and curl up in bed.
Wednesday morning, after a very extended night's sleep, we woke to an
already stifling temperature of 104°F. After breakfast Christy and I helped with some of the chores, including packing lunches for the guests staying at the ranch. Our afternoon followed a similar pattern as the previous- sitting in the creek. This time one of the ranchers had acquired a large penguin float that was used to attempt some mild white-water rafting. When Amy was done at work, the three of us gathered up some snacks and walked to the corral to feed the mules. We washed up, ate dinner, and caught the end of the ranger talk; tonight was the scorpion hunt. It took some searching, but eventually the ranger's blacklight caught the florescent green claws of the hiding arachnid. Christy and I wrapped up an already fantastic day by camping out on the roof and falling asleep under the stars.
At some point in the night I lumbered my way down one ladder and up another, because I awoke on Thursday morning in my bed in the loft. I joined the twins for breakfast and then we packed lunches, filled water bottles, and laced up the hiking boots. Two rangers joined our hiking group and we set
off on a trail. The climb was steep right from the start, but after a bit it leveled out until we reached a point known as Piano Alley. Large, square boulders litter a short stretch of the path, creating a jungle gym-esque route. Just beyond the specifically shaped rocks, we reached the flats, but for all I know we could've been on Mars. We crossed the bright red layer and dropped down a little ledge into an alcove decorated with old antlers. We enjoyed the view from this point, as well as a snack, because the next part of this hike was about to be intense. It was finally time to head back down into the canyon via a passage known as the "cheese grater"- see picture. It was with a slow pace and steady foot (and on occasion hands and butt), that we all made our way down the unforgiving rock. On the bottom we were rewarded with a hill of soft, sand-like sediment; we literally leapt, jumped, and bounded our way down the cushiony ground. A few more little drops downwards and we had returned to the creek. We sealed up the valuables in ziplock bags and
plunged our way into the refreshing waters, swimming/wading/walking the remaining miles back to Phantom Ranch. Our final night was enjoyed feeding ringtails, mixing cocktails, and making memories with new friends by starlight.
Friday morning brought reluctant goodbyes, but we had to hit the trail before the heat became unbearable. With lots of rest stops, some head dunks in the creek, and a siesta in some Indian ruins, Christy and I reached the top of the Bright Angel trail about seven and a half hours later! The trip was worth every minute...
Next blog will be coming soon, as I'm currently writing from my my boarding gate at LAX on my way to Hong Kong! Also, I have finally mustered the courage to start my own website. It's in the very beginner phase, so there isn't much rhyme or reason to it yet. But please check it out, send me suggestions, and let me know what you'd like to see!
http://leaveandexplore.wordpress.com/
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Maureen Kelly
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Great Blog!
Bob and I travelled from the South Rim to Phantom Ranch and another time from the North Rim to A campground and hiked to Phantom Ranch. We took the Colorado Raft Trip for a week with hiking friends, but have never heard of Piano Alley or Cheese Grater? Great Bog Enjoy Hong Kong. talked to your grandfather, he is recouping after knee replacement...seems to be doing well. Have fun in Hong Kong! Stay safe...Love and a hug...Aunt Maureen